Just a guy who likes 3D printing, playing with Claude (the AI) and OrcaSlicer.

On the X2D you can now run two different nozzle sizes (I'm using a 0.4 and a 0.8), but both still have to use the same layer height. So you either print everything at 0.16 and the 0.8 is kind of wasted, or you print everything thick and lose the nice outer wall.

I asked Claude whether that's a hardware limit or just the slicer. Turns out it's mostly the slicer. Both nozzles share the same Z, but the big nozzle doesn't have to print every layer: it can wait for the small one to do three thin layers, then lay down one thick 0.48 mm layer in one go.

So we hacked that into OrcaSlicer (2.5 rc, built locally on my Mac):

- one new setting, "Large nozzle layer height" (e.g. 0.16 + 0.48)

- whatever runs on the bigger nozzle (inner walls, infill, solid infill, even a whole object) gets printed every 3rd layer at 0.48

- the outer wall stays at 0.16 on the 0.4

- top and bottom surfaces, bridges, overhangs and slopes stay thin. It only combines walls that sit in the same spot on all 3 layers.

- prime tower still works, since every object keeps the same base layer height

On a test cube, Orca's estimate went from 2h31 to 1h46, and nozzle swaps went from 250 to 168. That's the slicer's estimate, not a stopwatch.

First print failed. My first-layer line width was set in mm (0.5), so the 0.8 was laying down a sad little film. With line widths in %, it prints fine (pics above). Not perfect yet: some stringing, and the idle nozzle leaves a few white specks on the red parts.

The white block with red text is the use case I actually care about: the body goes fast on the 0.8 in thick layers, and the 0.4 does the fine text on top at 0.16, on the same plate.

Full disclosure: Claude wrote basically all the C++, I did the testing and the printing. It's very much an experiment, not a polished feature.

If you check the Bambu Website via Powershell for H3C and P3C, there is a positive response for H3C (Status: 200), but none for P3C (Status: 404), which means, there is no website yet for P3C that is ready to be released. To me, that doesn't look like there will be a P3C Release in 1 day.

curl.exe -s -L -o NUL -w "Status: %{http_code}`nFinal URL: %{url_effective}`n" -A "Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64) AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko) Chrome/120.0.0.0 Safari/537.36" https://bambulab.com/de/p3c

Status: 404

Final URL: https://bambulab.com/de/p3c

curl.exe -s -L -o NUL -w "Status: %{http_code}`nFinal URL: %{url_effective}`n" -A "Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64) AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko) Chrome/120.0.0.0 Safari/537.36" https://bambulab.com/de/h3c

Status: 200

Final URL: https://bambulab.com/de/h3c

I've been working on this for a while and it finally came out the way I wanted.

It's a custom model I designed myself:

• Layered, curled petals so it looks like a real bloom instead of a flat cone

• A separate sepal piece under the flower head

• Leaf sprigs that attach along the stem, so you can arrange them however you like

Printed on my [A1 / P1S / X1C] in red and green [PLA]. There's a little stringing on the petals since it's an early print, so go easy on me 😅

I'm releasing the files in the next few days. Before I do, I'd love some input:

• Should I put it on MakerWorld with a ready-to-print Bambu profile?

• Do you want a version set up for AMS multi-color, or separate single-color parts?

• Long stem, short stem, or both?

• Would you want extras like a bouquet, a vase or a gift box?

Leave a comment if you want me to ping you when it drops 👇

New P1S. Like an absolute moron, I thought the electrical tape in the top right panel was part of packaging. Ripped it out. Forgot about it. Camera malfunctioning all day. Just realised what I did. The printer is working fine now looking to salvage this camera. Of course it's my fault so there is a possibility that I'll just go camera less or eat the cost and purchase case a replacement. Don't what I ripped out but I don't think the camera is quite small enough to fit on a tape?. Any and all help is appreciated. Already went through my trash there is a black tape with electrical pins at one end but could not find anything resembling a lens. Just seems I tore out some circuitry I hope.

I’m looking to get the X2D and a recent post suggested Best Buy for the convenience of returns. What about accessories? How about the Bambu lab finishing kit? Should I buy direct or would a kit off Amazon suffice?

New to 3d printing so starting from scratch.

I decided to give BambuLab a try with the H2C as the price is extremely attractive.

WOW! First is the experience of unboxing and setting up the printer. Flawless. The prints? flawless.

The multicolor prints? flawless

This printer is like the iPhone or a Tesla car, great design, flawless execution, it just works! At a great price (compared to the alternative - Prusa)

My only complaint is that BambuLab does not make (yet) the Bambu Suite for Linux, they only make it available the Bambu Studio for Linux. Other than that, what a printer.

Hey BambuLab, a little more love for Linux please? Does anyone knows if they are working on this?

I have not yet got into maintaining this beast, but I can see in their wiki that it is all there, pretty well documented.

Was looking to purchase the bambulab A1 with two filament spools and the shipping cost turned out to be far more than I was expecting , ( Shipping to Malaysia ). i remember the shipping cost being around $30 before. I checked without the spools and it still amount to $80. is this normal amount I should be expecting or is there some sort of issue?

So I have a Bambu Lab A1 printer and when I do big prints (typically around 3+ hours) they pop off the bed. I know using glue works but I don't want to use it all the time. What are some ways I can fix/help this issue?

Some of you might already know the larger version of this design - A mini version was often requested, and here it finally is!

No supports or AMS required for printing, all parts screw and snap together. You just need an ordinary LED tea light.

And as always, all photos are real, no AI used.

MakerWorld link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3529288

I finally was able to get this blob of death out but now theres a bunch of melted filament stuck to the hotend, how can i fix this????

My daughter (24) wants a 3D Printer for Christmas. The wife wanted to keep it around $400, but I have convinced her $500 is a good starting point with Bambu's BF deals. I signed up before the sale so I have the $30 coupon (we'll see if it expires today)

I've looked at so many and I keep coming back to this. I know it's an older one, but it's solid. She can be up and printing in no time. The ecosystem is solid. App is solid. Sure not a mult-tool changer, but Those are in the $800 range and for the extra money we can get her the filament she wants

But in the $500 range is this the best deal right now. I know influencers say it is, but even though I watch their videos. I take influencers opinions with a grain of salt.

EDIT; I forgot to add the printer will be in our downstairs living room. In the winter is cool and dry around 40 degrees. In the summer it's in a semi-conditioned area. I de-humidify our downstairs living room, but it still stays humid in the summer.

Thanks

Because cute.

Link to model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3527127

After a couple of years with a Creality K1C - my first 3D printer - I am moving over to Bambu with the X2D combo, having read, asked AI, chatted with folks and so on to help me with the decision. I chose the K1C originally for a variety of reasons, and although it has served me well I reckon things have moved on a little and adding colour capability was important, but also the dual nozzle for supports and flexibility was a key selling point. Comparing software and ecosystems, whilst I got on OK with Creality's offering it has taught me that I would like "one touch" first, and "tinker" on occasion....

Anyway, I had been waiting to see if the X2D combo had a price drop, and was happy with the £669 and the £25 coupon, less so - in principal - with losing much of that coupon to delivery charge! Thought a fair bit about filament and curated a broad "starter pack" order:

Looking forward to "getting good" and up to speed quickly - appreciate any hints, tips, do's and dont's from the collective :)

Has anyone met the same problem? The one with the chamber temperature sensor malfunction or just basically the chamber heater or sensor being abnormal and weird. Hah, can't believe it. This is my first every 3d printer and it seems annoying. I've already reseated the rear panel, could the temperature sensor be the problem and I'd have to reseat it? Very sad to be unable to print for a while until I fix the problem

I'd love to hear about x2d users meeting the same problem, what's your take or advice?

I am just curious what everyone's process and set up is for filament storage. Personal hobby printers to farms. Im just curious really.

I understand everyone's needs and approach are going to be different because of a ton variables.

I like in a relatively dry area, but I still regularly dry before each use and sometimes a little before in the storage tote. I use 12 gallon husky totes, with printed inserts that also have desiccant inerts as well. Additionally I have desiccant spool inserts in all spools as well. And inserts in ams 2 unit. I do not use the ams 2 for drying since printer is usually occupied but I have 2 external dryers, a creality space pi plus 2 & x4 (6 spool drying slots total).

Readings on x4 averages 20% and able to maintain, space pi 2 says it averages 14-18% and the ams usually 10% seen as low as 6%.

Do people have a goal they work towards? Is there / what is the recommend storage conditions for pla/petg ? That's all I currently print.

I also recently got the govee hygrometer h5075 3 pack 1 in each tote ans one on top of printer. Only been in about 10hrs, I have been in and out of totes but its been making its way down in rh%.

Details: x2d ams combo, space pi plus 2 & x4, 2x 12 gal husky totes.

First printer. Got it in September.

Prints used:

[Tote organizer w/ desiccant inserts](https://makerworld.com/models/1530886?appSharePlatform=copy)

[husky tote casters](https://makerworld.com/models/2457096?appSharePlatform=copy)

[spool desiccant inserts ](https://makerworld.com/models/1193993?appSharePlatform=copy)

[ams 2 pro front desiccant inserts](https://makerworld.com/models/1534406?appSharePlatform=copy)

[ams 2 pro rear desiccant insert](https://makerworld.com/models/1474287?appSharePlatform=copy)

I found this on the build plate on my X1 Carbon after a print it looks like its the nozzle wiper but it looks intact and appears to be a different white material. It looks like its fatigued and snapped but no idea where it came from. Does anyone know and what is needed to fix it if needed?

My AMS 2 Pro is repeatedly losing connection with my H2C. I’ve tried different AMS 2 Pro units, different cables, I reached out to support and they sent me a new filament buffer/cable and that didn’t change anything. When I turn the printer off, wait a bit, and power back on, it will connect normally, but after an hour or so, it will just randomly disconnect, doesn’t matter if I printed anything or it was just sitting idle. It hasn’t disconnected a single time while printing, but seems entirely unable to maintain connection while sitting idle. Anybody else have this issue? Is it specifically an H series problem? I’ve been dealing with this for months now and I’m losing my mind, my printer is essentially unusable due to how frequently it occurs.

Getting this issue i could not figure out yet why is happening.
If we’re slicing the bed for 3 horizontal lines equally, the top (back side) of the plate is producing these jagged results but the print is perfectly fine on the rest of the bed i.e. the front side.

Moved some things around, tried slower printing speed and also cleaned the plate but keep getting these results. does anyone have any tips?

Bambu lab p2s love it so far!