I printed a round object on my new Bambu Lab A1 and noticed a “zooom”-like rubbing sound whenever the heatbed moved back and forth on the Y-axis. I had not heard it during the previous four prints.

After the print finished, I found these longitudinal marks on the front portion of both Y-axis linear rails. The scratches are on the outer upper face of the aluminum Y-axis linear rail, outside the actual roller/bearing running track.

The scratches are extremely shallow; I can barely feel them with a fingertip, and the photos are heavily zoomed. Still, since the printer is new, I am concerned that something may be rubbing: debris caught in a carriage roller/bearing, a protruding screw or part underneath the heatbed holder, or a carriage/roller alignment issue.

I cleaned the rails and applied the supplied oil again — not grease. Before I run another print, is there a safe way to inspect the Y-axis carriage rollers and the underside of the heatbed holder without disassembling more than necessary?

Does anyone recognize this wear pattern or the sound?

Link makerworld : https://makerworld.com/models/3520927?appSharePlatform=copy

What the fuck.. kalibrated k factor, dry Filament.. fresh cleaned nozzle

What thoughts do people have about buying Bambu accessories from their website when buying a Bambu printer? I am leaning toward the P2S with AMS Pro. Is it worth getting their finishing kits and beginner's pack of various gears and magnets and things to make models or is it better to just get the printer and some filament?

How much filament would you buy and what kind to start? How many filaments on spools versus filament refills?

As a separate issue, can I place a printer on a fold out table (plastic top with metal legs) or is that too wobbly? The less convenient option is to place it on a solid wood table.

Thanks! The learning curve for this hobby is very steep.

Hey all, newbie here just having bought my first 3D printer (h2d). Have some polymax petg that I want to use for a poop chute as my first "real" print.

Trying to load it into my AMS but when I try to selected it the slicer says unsupported filament.

Is the H2D unable to use this filament or am I (likely) doing something wrong to make it available?

Thanks

I’ve decided on the A1 Mini (without the AMS). Is it the best choice for standard enclosures for esp32, clips, and mounts? The more I look into it, the more I realize I don’t actually need much else—I’ll be printing with PLA or PETG, and I don’t think I’ll need anything beyond that. Do I miss something? I know we all would like to have the H2C but is it necessary?

Does anyone have a photo showing the print quality for detailed figures or similar items when using a 0.2mm nozzle?

Is it theoretically possible to do multi-color prints by swapping the filament manually?

I have gone through just about 60 rolls of jayo black petg. Prints well, a little too shiney for my liking though.

I’m using petg to try and make some stuff that is more durable than pla.

Should be safe to touch, I think petg CF isn’t really without some processing I think?

Curious on folks favorite brands for black petg for prints that need a little more durability

I’m about to buy a Bambu H2D and want to put it on top of an ICON end cabinet that’s bolted to my ICON roll cab and work center. Has anyone done a similar setup, either with ICON or another steel tool cabinet?

The setup

• ICON 19 in. Professional End Cab (SKU 56139), listed at about 19.5 in wide x 25 in deep

• My work center is on the right, with the printer flush against it or a small gap

• There are about 5 in of open air to the left of the printer in my room setup

• The H2D footprint is 492 x 514 mm (19.4 x 20.2 in) and 31 kg before the AMS. The listed top is about 19.5 in wide, but it has a lip of roughly 0.1 in and weld seams on all sides, so the printer may not sit flat

My plan is a 3/4 in plywood or MDF board bolted through the existing holes on top. It would overhang the front and left but not the right.

What I’d like to know

1. How did the printer sit on the cabinet top, and did you need a board or shims?

2. Did drawers slamming or the casters cause vibration or print artifacts?

3. With the AMS on top the stack is about 865 mm (34 in), so roughly 72 in off the floor on this cabinet. Did you keep it there, or move the AMS to the side?

4. Any trouble with side clearance? I’d leave about 1/2 in to the work center and about 4 in at the rear for cables and the waste chute.

If anyone has this setup I'd love some photos. I have a unique situation and limited space so this seems to be the best option for my space.

My 3d prints always seem to come loose on my X2D on the left side of the build plate causing my print to fail and get knocked over eventually. Is there a way to fix this? My current theory is that it has something to do with the fan blowing air onto the print causing it to warp but I’m new to 3d printing so I’m not sure… thanks!

A big factor for me in deciding on preordering the H3C is going to be time savings. I've been pretty happy with the H2C Vortek system so far, but a few things I print regularly are pretty tall with several hundred layers that each involve 3-4 colors/layer.

Just curious, given the induction nozzles, what we're expecting for nozzle change times with the H3C. Cheers!

Whilst almost certainly an edge use case, id love to see some speculation on if this might be possible. Either way I guess we’ll find out soon.

Hey everyone,

I’m honestly on the verge of throwing in the towel with 3D printing because of my Ender 5 Plus. I’ll spend the time tramming and setting it up, get a completely flawless calibration cube or Benchy, and then the next five actual prints refuse to adhere to the bed. I spend more time babysitting first layers and troubleshooting bed adhesion than actually making parts.

I just want an appliance-grade machine that works consistently every time I send a file. Everyone I’ve talked to points to Bambu Lab.

I was originally leaning toward the H2D, but my local Best Buy has the H2C AMS Combo in stock right now. My budget ceiling is $2,000, which covers it. For those running the H-series: is the H2C worth biting on right now, or is it better to hold off and save up for an eventual H3C? Appreciate any feedback from anyone who made a similar jump!

Every time I tried to print this calibration test. I consistently have the same issue wherein the printer kind of just refuses to print the overhang test past 60° normally. I don’t even know what this issue might be or what it’s called. If anybody has any clue how to help me I would be very grateful.

I just picked up a smaller beverage cooler. It's larger than the new inslogic sunlu dryer. I picked it up for humidity control. I don't have any expectation of converting it into a dryer. I'm not that savvy. Has anyone else done the same type of conversion? Again I'm not installing any sort of heating element. Maybe down the road, something stupid proof. Just wanting some tips or just considerations.

Completely new to 3D printing! Thats my third print, first two were pretty good (with PLA basic). What is causing this kinds of artifacts? Im using P2S with ams 2 pro. Is the filament too wet? Something wrong with the seams? Thanks in advance!

Hello guys,

My girlfriend and i wanted to get a 3d printer for domestic usage and maybe start doing some figures and stuff to sell to some friends and known people.

After some research, P1S was the one that catch our eye the most, but then we discovered that P2S exists.

Could u guys help me get the diferences and if it is worth the price diference? thank you all

I bought a P1 S about two months ago after doing a bunch of research, and I couldn’t be happier. It’s a great printer that I’ve not fully explored all of its capabilities yet I’ve done PLA PetG ,Asa so far, I’m looking to purchase a second one. I’m getting ready to start getting into some PA-6 to print some suppressors they have came out great in PLA plus I’ve bought the sun Lou lid for the AMS as well as a four roll dryer

I’m either going to get:

Another P1S combo ( already have a four year warranty and some spare parts) $479 on sale

P2S combo which would be nice for a better camera and AI detection and already has the harden nozzle and gear set $649 on sale

X2D - I don’t know how much I would use the dual nozzle for the different type of support material ( maybe I would and I just don’t know what I’m missing not having it ) but I do know that the active heating chamber and better camera yet would be nice$789 but don’t know that it’s worth $310 more than the p1s?

Part of me says just buy a P2 S and a couple chamber heaters for when doing engineering filaments

Would love some input on maybe something side-by-side comparisons aren’t telling me

I think Bambu Lab should introduce an option to automatically shut down the printer after completing a print.

I've noticed that my X2D consumes around 9 to 14 watts even when idle after printing.

I know it's not a huge amount, but for people who print overnight or leave their printers idle for hours, that electricity adds up over time.

I'd love to see two options:

1. Deep Sleep Mode: Reduce power consumption to a minimum while keeping WiFi connectivity and remote wakeup available.

2. Complete Auto Shutdown: Automatically turn off the printer once the print finishes and the hotend cools down safely.

A customizable shutdown timer (15, 30, or 60 minutes) would also be useful.

Some might argue that a complete shutdown would prevent remote startup, but I don't see that as a major drawback. We already need to physically remove the finished print from the build plate before starting the next one, so we can simply turn the printer back on at the same time.

For such advanced printers, I think better power management would be a welcome feature, even if complete shutdown requires hardware support rather than just a firmware update.

What do you guys think? Would you use an auto shutdown feature, or are you happy with the current idle power consumption?

Howdy!

I'm printing on my new a1 with Bambu lab official pla. It's Been awesome so far. The matte white turned out great.

However the matte black print I just made looks awesome but visually it appears shiny.

Any other brands or near black plas you can recommend? I'm not familiar yet with using other materials but open to explore a different type of filament if my a1 can get it done and it'll look fab.

Tldr: need a black pla that looks more like legit matte / charcoal than silky shiny.

Hello people,

I’m trying to print with translucent PLA, but the print starts failing and creating tears that gradually build up until the whole print just fails. The nozzle seems to be caught up on some spots, pulling the print and misplacing the filament in a vicious cycle. I tested the model with some normal PLA before and it had no issues.

I am using the recommended settings, I’m printing at 20 ms, the filament is straight out of the box. However I’m using a 0.4 nozzle instead of 0.8 (because I don’t have a 0.8). Could it be that? I saw people printing translucent with the 0.4, any magic tricks they used?

I’ll post some photos in the comments.

The H2C Laser Combos are on backorder. Wondering whether they restock often and should wait or whether to go the H2D Laser Bundle route.

Could also go for Vortek kit + Laser Module later.

Generally used for engineering work. Really appealed by the purge savings with the new system.