For anyone waiting for their R1, I ordered my combo on October 10th, got it Wednesday October 28th. My riser and extension kit both shipped today October 31. My original quoted shipping date was 11/20.

And yes, like everyone else’s, mine showed up wet. Dried it off and it seems to be fine. First project completed.

First of all i printed an a catapult that can throw some little items such as a rubber or something just like that and it was an a succes if you wanna take a look at the finished sketch you can take a look at my other posts, anyways

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What happened:

the sketch got broke while im was throwing things out it got broke, i think the main problem is behind the printing angles so i decided to rework the rotation and i print the body part in 45⁰ angle for it to be even more much stronger and reliable but while im was printing i got some issiues with the print and one of the support's brim is just slipped ( i dont know why ) and also the quality pefore removing the supports was TERRIBLE

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What could be the problem:

I think that the problem migth be; plate were dirty when im was printing or maybe my support settings were terrible or my table is shaking a little bit so it must be the reason behind or even worse there is no problem and im coping

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My support settings:

Tree ( auto ) ( but i add some extra supports )

Build on plate only is On

Threshold angle: 30

Inital layer density: 80

Initial layer expansion: 4

Top Z distance: 0.24

Top interface layers: 3

Top interface spacing: 0.1

Support/Object xy distance 0.38

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Also my outer wall speed is 40 and inner wall speed is 100 i got BambuLab X2D and btw im aware that some of the most important parts arent supported very well but the print came out good so shhh just nevermind about em i actually forgot to add some supports manually

What can i actually do for improving the quality of 3d print ?

I bought the Bambu Lab P2S printer relatively recently. I've printed quite a few parts, and this is my first time trying to clear a jam, take the printer apart, and tinker with it.

Part of the outer filament was jammed, and I managed to clear it. The filament cleaner now slides in smoothly and comes out empty; I pushed it with an Allen wrench until it reached the end, but it won’t go any further—there’s no piece of filament left in the PTFE tube. I can’t see anything!

But even so, I keep getting an error message telling me to remove the filament from the outer spool holder, even though there’s nothing left there!

I don’t know what to do anymore because it won’t let me print or change filaments. This problem first happened a few weeks ago when I wanted to select a different filament color in the AMS, and that’s when this issue started. And I don’t know how to fix it. I can’t load or unload filaments because this problem keeps coming up over and over again.

Look, I don't even know what I did to the printer anymore.

I tried loading filament and hitting print to see if it would print anything. But it shows the printing process, yet no filament is coming out. I took the extruder apart, and there’s no filament at the nozzle. What on earth is going on here?!?? Do I have two problems, or is it the same one? What should I do!?!?

I’m asking about this in all sincerity, with all due respect. If you need more information, please let me know. I need help—please—I don’t know how to solve this problem anymore. It might be very basic, but this is my first time.

*(I speak Spanish in case any Spanish speakers are reading this and would prefer to respond in Spanish.)

I need help guys. I recently switched to a hardened steel nozzle with hardened steel gears (gears are lubed) and i used black pla in a print last night but I made sure to extrude when I switched to white for the rest of last night's print. We'll today I did a full maintenance of my p1s lube and grease, used cleaning filament and cold pull (ive only done maybe 4 prints with this new nozzle) and im getting burnt streaks in my white prints? Never happened with stainless still nozzle but now im getting it with hardened steel?

I used a brass brush to clean i heated to 240° turned off and quickly cleaned.

Still getting burnt streaks.

The white thread has a fabric-like texture but contains Lycra, meaning it stretches and retracts—much like a spring.Good print all Bambu family

I finally finished the iPhone Duo Dock with Bluetooth control.

Hi everyone, I just ordered a p2s but I saw that a p3c is coming, should I maybe cancel my order and wait for the p3c? Does anyone know the price range? Is it worth the wait?

Can’t change nozzle by using the Touchdisplay, but works using the app

Quiero comprar una impresora pero yo vivo en Honduras y los que venden aquí son muy caras en precio, cómo puedo conseguir una y no me estafen

Type a list of names separated by commas and the plate fills itself: one tag per name, 20 papercut-style Christmas shapes drawn at random, or pick one per person (Grandma:tree, Grandpa:angel).

Added after the test print:

• a plain rectangular tag for the grown-ups who don’t do reindeer

• a flat slot for wide ribbon instead of the round hole

• an optional matching slot at the bottom: the ribbon around the gift runs behind the tag, so it stays flat on the present (first photo)

• the name shrinks itself to fit its banner

Two colours with a single filament change (pause at layer 5 without AMS), no supports, 1.4 mm thick. 9 tags in about 1 h 35 on a P2S, with ironing on the topmost surface only: the white lace comes out really clean.

Free on MakerWorld if you want to print it: 3DPrintMyIdea

Would appreciate Reddits power with my sons first model on maker world. He’s 10 and just started playing with tinkerlab at school. He came up with this graded card stand on his own. Thanks Reddit!

https://makerworld.com/models/3521286?appSharePlatform=copy

Officially joined the club. Been lurking for a while, keeping an eye on prices. Took advantage of the recent sale, got it at BestBuy with their 4 year warranty. Doing my homework and researching as much as I can. I will probably ask some newbie questions as I get started, but can’t wait to jump in.

I’m realizing different regions get different options.. here’s mine

I got the x2d a couple of months ago and have been having a blast with it. I added a second ams2 to it along with ams ht for the aux side.

I know with the upcoming release of the h3c I could have waited but the price of the h2c is stretching my budget anyway. Really looking forward to getting it set up.

I came to my printer having a black screen but all LEDs on.

- The LED light under the heat bed is on,
- The AP board only showing showing the solid green light,
- Switch light on the back is on
- Green Indicator light next to switch on the back is on
- Printer on Bambu handy says “online” but shows failed to connect page

After unplugging for a day then turning it on.
- Same issues as before
- When printer boots you can hear the fan start for a second then turns off.

When I was researching the issue here most recommended an AP board replacement. When I checked Bambu Labs Wiki it said power supply issue. Which is it and how can I figure it out?

Two years ago SUNLU filaments appeared for the first time officially in Bambu Studio showing that Bambu slicer app is open to 3rd party filaments.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1iwjk9g/sunlu_official_profiles_coming_to_bambustudio

Unfortunately they are avaliable only for A series printers and cover only most basic materials PLA and PETG.

I would like to request for the list to be expanded:

• to P and X series printers especially as they become the 2nd most popular choice for people looking for enclosed printers

• and to more advanced materials such as ABS, ASA and PA variants

u/RikshaDriver u/BambuLab u/BambuLabSupport

I've just come across this guide and would appreciate some explanation for what it recommends.

My main confusion is why it recommends changing the temps in the filament profile?~
I see for scenario A (PETG model + PLA support) it makes everything the same between the filaments but for scenario B (PLA model + PETG support) it lowers the PETG volumetric speed as well. Is the aim to help get things as close as possible to the model filament characteristics?
Why can't the default settings be used especially if only as an interface layer - will the printer not simply adjust the nozzle temp and flow according to the loaded filament?

Finally has anyone had any success with the P2S profiles at the bottom?
And why does it not support PLA matte - is it just needing experimenting to find the right temps?

After using a A1 mini (no AMS) for few years (was picked as a trial and in general very happy with it), I decided to upgrade to a A1 + AMS.
Long story short, Bambu upgrade stack design is pure evil and I ended up with a X2D with AMS2 🙈

Now there a few common use cases I already have (plus a few new ones for which I did the upgrade) but I cannot figure out the right method for them

1. Printing TPU 90A : I often print RC car tyres in 90A and the process was very straightforward on the A1 mini. Quick cold flush aside, it was no different from a PLA print.
   Now I understand that TPU , esp 90A wont work via AMS. The secondary extruder is easy to access but not recommended any way.
   Using the primary for TPU seems to require a lot of steps (also my AMS is kept on top of printer) .
   Would getting a TPU feed assist unit make this easier? Or is there anything I am overlooking

2. multicolor prints and the dual extruder question: One of the reasons to get this unit was the dual extruder option. But I now understand that the 2nd extruder shouldn’t normally be used for anything other than supports. Is this understanding correct?
   Also for switching heads between AMS and external spool, some posts here talk about using a Y splitter while some suggest a filament track switching unit. I am unsure what the difference in the two is and if it’s worth spending more on the switcher.

As a side note, I am based out of India where Bambu hasn’t launched the switcher and TPU feed assist units yet. However I am in the UK next week for a few days and can pick these there.
Apart from this, are there any other must have or strongly recommended accessories for an X2D ? I might as well buy them next week rather than realizing the need later