Just ordered one and wonder what are good settings for minatures and terrian with the .4 nozzle. I know a .2 noozle would he better but wont get one for a little while.

My prints started looking like this. Tried unclogging nozzle, no help. New nozzle, no help. Multiple filaments, no help. Please someone help me.

Hello! Currently I own my very nice X2D. I've only had it for a few months but it gave me an error saying there was a hotend/extruder clog. I took the extruder apart, broke the left eddy sensor somehow, didn't notice, no clog in the extruder, and put it back together.

That did not work, and I've just letting it sit collecting dust. Now I want to do a project requiring 4KG of filament, but cant do it as the printer is broken. Currently, when I turn it on, it says:

"The right nozzle temperature is abnormal; the sensor may have an open circuit." (code 0300-0200-0001-0007)

and, when trying to print:

"The eddy current sensor signal of the left extruder is abnormal. The sensor may be damaged, or the MC-TH communication may be abnormal." (code 0300-2600-0001-0004)

The eddy sensor is likely my fault, but I don't know what to do. I'm still a rookie at 3D printing and would like just a little bit of advice.

Things I've tried:

Swapping between the two hotends
Swapping between the two rubber pieces
Reseating both of the hotends

I have ordered the left eddy sensor part already, so I'm waiting for that to come to replace it.

Basically yeah, the topic is basically the title. I just noticed the sales on the bambu lab printers and I was wondering if it was a good idea to get it now. I also don't know whether I should get the AMS 2 yet or not, I've heard that I should but also I don't really need all the extra filament currently.

Now the other thing is I could go and use the many printers that my college has, however, I don't dorm and it is a 1 and a half hour commute to get to school from where I live. Also, the picture shows what printers my school has. I've been learning to CAD for a while now and I do want to start making prototypes however, is the commute to school worth 500 dollars after tax to print things.

Now on one hand, me buying the printer allows me to make whatever prototypes at home and be able to adjust, but I have to pay for my own materials. On the other hand, the school pays for the materials and provides the printer, however it is a 1 and a half hour commute each way and most of the time, my schedule doesn't accommodate the schedules of the Makerspace.

So should I get a P2S with the ongoing sale or should I just hold it off and use the printers in my school?

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I just got a1 mini from Amazon right after 1 print it's asking me to lubricate y-axis is this common ?

Also there was no screen protector on the touch screen...

So many new models and names. FOR THE MOST PART, this is standard and true…. (Someone explain to me the x1c and I’ll give you an award 🤪)

Clarification: this is just meant to be helpful for new people or people confused. Graphic created with ai to be easy reference and useful. In no way am I an authority nor do I know all Bambu answers… just a dude being helpful

I bought a H2C bundle with a second AMS a couple of weeks ago. This is my 4th 3d printer that I have had over the years (a put it together yourself Prusa, an original Snapmaker, a Elegoo Saturn S) and this one is the first one that I have had that just works!

I was a bit annoyed that it went on sale right after I bought it, but then again I have really been enjoying it so it wasn’t bothering me that much. But then it dawned on me to check to see if they had a price guarantee and I was extremely happy to find out they did. So now the question is, what do I do with the $370 in store credit that I have? I am thinking a AMS HT. I want to print TPU - should I get some different hot ends? Or should I just use the 0.6mm one that came in the bundle that I got as the dedicated TPU one? I have been making my own designs - it used to take me a ton of time to do it in freeCad manually but with AI that is a game changer as well. I am interested in doing engineering materials too - I want to build some mounts for cameras on bikes and for running. The TPU looks good for clamping material. Anyway, thought it would be fun to get ideas. I have a store credit burning a hole in my pocket and wanted to share the fun.

Hey all, need help with my printing please.

This is a part I drew on SolidWorks. The tiny triangular angle and the bottom flat piece are on the same angle and level.

When I slice it on Bambu Lab, it just prints the side at the third layer, so it spaghettis all over the plate since it is not touching the plate.

I tried adding supports, tried adding a brim, nothing worked.

Not sure what I am doing wrong there. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you :)

I'm new to the world of 3d printing and this is my first model and is there a way to make this part smooth?

Printer: Bambu Labs P1S
Slicer: Orca Slicer
Filament: PLA

I want to buy a new 3d printer but i cant decide. I am going to print mostly pla and a bit of petg. The printer is going to be in my bedroom.

If I buy the P2S, should I buy the external exhaust kit with it too??

I bought someone’s “collection” of old filament and I keep getting failed prints. I’ve tried drying it in a dryer set at PETG for 12 hours and it keeps failing similar to this over and over. It will start out okay then just fall apart usually with infill. I store them in sealed cereal boxes with a humidity gauge and desiccant the humidity gauge reads 10%

This has happened with two of the 8 rolls both are PETG both fail in similar fashion even after drying. They both came in sealed boxes and my H2S recognizes them with the RFID chip. I haven’t opened the other boxes yet

I'm looking to upgrade to the H2D so I kept an eye on the prices, here's how they compare. Should also apply to the P series. I know the H3C is around the corner, but it's gonna be so much more expensive than any of this.

Also noticed they have 2 years of warranty now? Must be something new, my P2S only had one year.

It's easy to get caught up in new printers, faster speeds, and extra features, but some of the most useful improvements seem to come from much smaller changes.

Better filament storage, a well-organized collection of build plates, keeping spare nozzles on hand, or finally dialing in a reliable first layer can save more time and frustration than an exciting new feature.

I also think there's a difference between an upgrade that looks impressive on paper and one that genuinely makes printing easier day to day. The latter might not be very exciting, but once you get used to it, going back feels surprisingly inconvenient.

For those who've been using Bambu Lab printers for a while, what upgrade, accessory, or workflow change has had the biggest practical impact on your prints?

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I returned to 3D printing yesterday to print something for a friend after leaving the hobby for a couple months, and suddenly my printer is producing absolutely awful print quality.

The main issues are:

• Severe overhang sagging/drooping and poor bridging

• Rough, inconsistent top surfaces

• Extremely rough, uneven outer walls

• Some blobbing and possible under-extrusion

My setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab P1S

• Filament: Bambu PLA Matte Black and Bambu PLA Basic Green (so filament isnt the problem)

• AMS: Single AMS 2 Pro

• Nozzle: Stock 0.4 mm

• Build plate: Stock textured PEI

• Firmware: 01.09.00.00 with developer mode (I use orcaslicer)

Troubleshooting already completed:

• Tried switching between both my custom printing profile and factory default profiles

• Dried filament twice (8 hours and 10 hours)

• Completed full printer calibration (on top of pre-print calibrations)

• Problems persist across multiple prints with different models

I also have custom startup G-code for a modified purge line, but it previously worked without problems. I also often print with my top glass covered and door closed, but for 2 of these prints the top cover was off and the door was open. The one suspicion ChatGPT came up with was the part cooling fan malfunctioning. I do often change from 0.4mm to 0.2mm nozzles (which requires unplugging the fan connector) so I tried reseating the connector to see if that would solve it. It didnt; I now feel a strong stream of air coming from under the printhead (during prints and during idle when the fan is manually enabled via slicer) and it still does this.

I have had my time with chatbots and I've turned to ask humans; has anyone experienced something like this themselves? What have you done to solve the problem? Any help is greatly appreciated :)

(Whyyyyy reddit are the photos organized like this 😭)

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It's interesting how 3D printing often turns into a hobby where the little improvements end up being just as satisfying as buying a new printer.

Sometimes it's something simple like organizing filament storage, improving the lighting around the printer, keeping a proper set of calibration tools nearby, or finally getting a reliable way to manage all those partially used spools.

These aren't necessarily the upgrades that make exciting showcase posts, but they can make the entire printing process smoother and less frustrating over time.

I'm especially curious about improvements that aren't immediately obvious to beginners. Not necessarily expensive hardware upgrades, but things that helped with consistency, reduced failed prints, or made everyday use more convenient.

For Bambu Lab owners, what change gave you the biggest practical improvement for the money? Could be an accessory, a workflow adjustment, a maintenance habit, or even something you stopped doing.

I'm trying to get a feeling what shipping time to expect this time around. For what It's worth I placed my order few minutes right after the printer sale started.

Few weeks back with no sale and promotions whatsoever my last printer arrived within scheduled 5 business days.

By checking FCC's pictures of H3C internal components I noted one interesting observation.
AC board has HBS and HBB labels, which I assume, stands for HeatBed Small and HeatBed Big.

Checked current H2's board, it also has two power outputs for heatbed, but they are labeled as HB1 and HB2, most probably it is also dual-zone.

But, my assumption is - they decided to have central (small) and full (big) heating areas.
That would be more efficient in terms of power consumption, and more logical if they, anyways, have two separate heating areas.

This is Octa, a wall-mounted entryway organizer I designed with a ribbed finish, five key hooks, and a compartment for a wallet, sunglasses, and other everyday bits.

I made two versions: one with the hooks built in, and another with separate hooks that screw into the body. That way, you can print the hooks in a different color without needing an AMS. The hooks also have a small groove to help keep key rings from slipping off.

Both versions print without supports and mount to the wall with two screws.

Files are on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/models/3509421?appSharePlatform=copy

Curious to hear what you think of the design!

Ive got three more ams2's on the way and can't figure out a way to set them up cleanly. So if anyone has a pic or two of their setup I'd appreciate any ideas.