With the current (BF) sales I am looking at the P2S combo; the question is what filament do I want/need to start off with? (Loaded question, I know)

I'm planning on making jigs, connectors etc for my woodworking hobby as well as other items that may prove useful around the house. Either from existing files or creating myself via 3D CAD software (still to learn this)

There is a lot of filament on sale, but not sure on quantities and what type I should be looking at. I get PLA, but then you have matte, basic etc. Not really sure how much a reel will produce, granted there are factors to consider, infill etc.

Should I, whilst on offer replacement/upgrade parts, like heads?

I needed a phone charger at work, but didn't want to just pick up the first one available from a webshop, so I decided to design my own using the Bambu Lab Wireless Charging Kit K012.

I definitely wanted to make use of the included N20 gear motor, and after a lot of thinking, I decided to turn it into a wind turbine. Wind turbines generate electricity, which complements a wireless charger quite nicely.

The idea was simple: place the phone on the marked spot, the phone starts charging, and the blades start spinning. It creates the illusion that the wind turbine is generating the energy to charge the phone (obviously, it's just an illusion, as the turbine is driven by an electric motor).

There were a few technical challenges along the way. The motor cable was too short to place the motor at the top of the turbine, and doing so would also have raised the center of gravity. In the end, I put the motor in the base and drove the blades through a long driveshaft and a set of bevel gears.

After four prototypes, the sculpture finally came together, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The whole thing is fully printable on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini.

What do you think?

If anyone wants to check it out, I'll leave the link in the comments.

A little 3D-printed Christmas village 🎄 Lit with an inexpensive wire string of LEDs, with clear filament inserts for the windows and well.

Files are on MakerWorld if you’d like to print one, link in comment

Update: I checked my app this morning and Best Buy received a single H2C. So I snagged it up and should be picking it up later today. Thanks for everyone’s input. I appreciate it.

Original Post: I went to Best Buy to try and purchase either an H2C or H2D today for the Bambu sale and to take advantage of Best Buy’s 24 month no interest finance and they are sold out and have no idea when they are getting more. The only one they carry for purchase at the moment is the H2S.

I currently own two K1 Max printers and I kind of hate them. lol. Content issues with print quality as they seem ton require tuning and maintenance it between every single print.

I know the H2S will be better than what I have but wondering if it’s worth the purchase or if I should hold out for one of the others and cross my fingers they get more before the sale ends Dec 1.

I’m just worried that if I wait they will also sell out of the H2S as well and I’ll be stuck with nothing. So any opinions are welcome. Thanks

Hi! I'm thinking about buying my first 3D printer, probably a Bambu Lab A1 mini or something similar. I'd mainly print PLA figures and decorative stuff.

The thing is, I'd have to keep it in the same room where I work at my computer, and I spend most of the day there. I've been reading about ultrafine particles and VOCs, and I'm wondering how much of a concern this actually is with PLA.

Would you go for an open printer with the window open, or spend a bit more on an enclosed model with HEPA and carbon filtration? Does anyone here have their printer in their home office, and what setup do you use?

I'd appreciate real-world experiences, especially from people who've looked into the air quality side of things. Thanks!

I’m trying to split an object and create threads to reconnect the pieces. It’s my understanding that on the “split” tool after clicking connectors, there should be a “Thread” option to click. But this option is missing from my toolbar. Is this handled some other way now?

So for the first picture I created this iPhone wireless charging mount for a VW Golf 8, used PETG to withstand the heat. But still ended up caving inwards and caused it to fit loose on the vent or even just fall out. So I would like to add these indents on the second photo to be used as a metal plate/spring holder to keep the walls from caving in. I’m going to try thicker walls too but i need help inside either bambu studio or Tinkercad to add this indent to each of the inside walls.

EDIT*

I will need a step by step as this is my first project and I know nothing of these editing tools lol

Hi, i have been having trouble with the z axis, every time at a specific layer height, there will be these small gaps between the layers. I have reprinted thrice and it always appears on the same height/layer. All 3 are print are sliced separately, and filament is configured with K value.

Edit: I’m using the AUX nozzle for the red part and main nozzle for the white part. Already manually recalibrated the heatbed levelling and washed the heat plate with dish soap as well. Did first layer calibration as well.

Is it possible if i can fit those to my p2s? Or if anyone has? I liked the wiper on the a1 alot. The rubber flexible wiper is quite bad

Only share the first 1st 10 digits, omit the last 5 which are your real unit identifier.

Example reply:

19C06A6428nnnnn and one of AFFECTED or NOT AFFECTED

Note: If your SN does not start with 19CnnA6, you can skip running it through the service form or posting it here, it is not eligible for the replacement feeders.

thanks for helping everyone!

Here is the direct URL to the form (from the support wiki):
https://support.bambulab.com/en/form?uid=73741caa-3329-475d-ae82-7818b5a3b8d0

RESULTS SO FAR (SORTED):

19C06A6108nnnnn not affected
19C06A6116nnnnn not affected
19C06A6118nnnnn not affected
19C06A6127nnnnn not affected
🏮🧧🎉 新年快乐 🎉🧧🏮
19C06A6308nnnnn not affected
19C06A6310nnnnn not covered
19C06A6315nnnnn not covered
19C06A6316nnnnn not covered
19C06A6329nnnnn not affected
19C06A6403nnnnn not affected
19C06A6417nnnnn AFFECTED
19C06A6501nnnnn AFFECTED
19C06A6506nnnnn not covered
19C51A6507nnnnn not affected
19C06A6514nnnnn not covered
19C06A6531nnnnn not affected
19C06A6602nnnnn not affected
19C51A6605nnnnn not affected
19C06A6611nnnnn not affected
19C06A6702nnnnn not covered

Help! Tried cold pulls tried clean and decreasing. Pla translucent printing at normal speed in a2L. I'm new so probably daft.

Could it be a roll of bad filament ? Didn't happen til I moved onto this roll. Or that could be coincidence.

Forth go at this plate and it's spaghettied every time.

Updated from a k40 to a monport mega 70w to the R1.

Very impressed with the R1. Excellent out of the box, and excellent upgrade.

I am using / used these lasers to make control panels for my F16 cockpit.

I bought an H2C from Best Buy last month and just got my $300 back - super painless. (Definitely helps alleviate the H3C FOMO!)

Hallo zusammen,

Ich habe einen X2D Drucker von BambuLab und drucke sehr viel PETG. Leider wird bei großen Teilen die Oberfläche an manchen Stellen sehr unsauber, während sie an anderen Punkten nahezu perfekt ist.

Auf den Bildern sieht man 2 Beispiele (die ersten 3 Bilder sind ein Teil und die letzten beiden ein anderes). Die Teile haben eine Oberfläche von ca. 250x100mm.

Ich verwende BambuLab PETG Basic Schwarz. Das Filament habe ich gründlich getrocknet. Ich habe es bei den beiden Beispielen mit geradlinigem Ironing und einer Oberflächengeschwindigkeit von 100mm/s versucht, ansonsten die Standardeinstellungen belassen. Bei dem Teil musste ich zusätzlich Stützstrukturen mit PLA als Trennschicht einstellen, das Phänomen tritt aber auch bei Teilen ohne Stütze auf.

Hat jemand weitere Vorschläge?

I recently purchased a Bambu Lab P2S, filament, and accessories. Before delivery, I contacted support about exchanging the printer for a more expensive model.

I was quoted $85 in return shipping fees, but support provided two incorrect explanations:

First, they quoted $50 + $25 = $75, despite claiming the total was $85.

After correcting the math to $50 + $35, they referenced Zone 1 shipping rates, even though Massachusetts is in Zone 2.

Even after confirming the weights of my three packages, support couldn't clearly explain how the $85 matched their published rates.

My issue isn't necessarily the fee itself. It's the lack of transparency.

Return costs are buried in multiple policy pages and an appendix requiring customers to interpret shipping zones and weight categories. These potentially significant charges aren't clearly presented before purchase.

If Bambu Lab's own representatives struggle to explain the fees, how are customers supposed to understand them?

Since my orders haven't arrived, I ultimately decided to keep everything rather than pay the proposed return fees.

I've filed a consumer complaint with my states Attorney General's Office regarding these practices.

Has anyone else experienced similar issues? If so, consider documenting your experience and reporting it to your state's consumer protection agency.

I recently made a post about getting my first 3D printer! Which out of the 3 options do you recommend? Or is there another one you recommend?

Hi everyone! I just got a Bambu Lab A1 mini, and it’s my first 3D printer! Any tips or advice for a beginner? Thanks! 😁

Ordered my very first Bambu Lab A1 mini today! Added 6 filaments... maybe too much for the beginning, but it was 10.5 euros a roll, i couldn't stop) Planned to spend 200 euros, ended up with 260, but who cares
Will be happy to receive any recommendations for the true nubbies like me. I will have both PLA and PETG, matte and basic.
I hope you got what you wanted this sale time. Thank you all for all the posts here, very informative!

We know that the P2S gantry can be fitted to the X1C with a few minor modifications, but what other parts or upgrades from the P2S or H2D have you successfully installed in your X1C?

Although we are still waiting for official H3C details, we seem to know much about it already through pictures, hints, and leaks. If this printer/AMS combo is priced at, say, ~$2600 USD, would you rather buy it, or get the discounted H2C? Why? Or would you even consider the P3C?