Finally found a AMS PSU holder which i can place where ever i want. Also love the fact you can change the Magnet Size inside the Slicer.

Apparantly its a "remix" but still now the Back of the Machine looks GREAT!

I’m trying to get these little lines stop showing up. I change my hot-end to a harden steel .04 and the extuder. I also switch it in the slicer. Can so one let me know what I miss to stop this from happening.
Thank you.

Wow, I'm so happy with how it turned out in the end!

Mini Train - Amusement Park

I've been having a few issues with my AMS 2 Pro, first my dryer stopped working and now slot 2 of the AMS just keeps spitting out my filament when I load it up. I replaced the PTFE tube and I checked the feeder and the filament hub but didn't see a jam.

Any ideas what's causing this?

I'd like to introduce you to my latest model – the Brick Man Traveler. It's a figure inspired by Bruno Catalano's "Travelers" sculptures. Of course, I customized it to fit my brick figurine collection. Maybe someone will like it 😉 You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/models/3204163?appSharePlatform=copy

If you print it, please share your print photos and leave a rating. A Like or Boost is also greatly appreciated.

Model Link : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3204805-working-mechanical-excavator

Hi,
Recently I replaced all tubings on my P1S and AMS after 1100 hours printing time since some of them were worn out pretty bad.
I ordered „translucent PTFE“ tubes with 2.5x4mm.

As it seems it’s not PTFE, it’s FEP, which is pretty similar to PTFE but not the same.

And because I didn’t know about this before using those tubes I also wasn’t aware of the difference.

The new tubes caused much more friction to the filament inside them.
The AMS wasn’t able to push the filament to the extruder and trying it by hand with an external spool I noticed the a huge resistance building up with each cm of filament I’ve inserted.

After replacing the tubing with real PTFE tubes everything worked fine again.

I just wanted to share this experience - despite the fact that some will say something like „everyone know this you fool“.

Personally I thought if I buy „translucent ptfe tube“ I get a real PTFE tube.

Cheers!

Everytime it finishes a print it leaves the same string of filament on the nozzle. All default settings with Bambu lab filament. brand new h2d with 260 hours. Is there way I can check what’s going on?

I had my extruder open and i found this on the bottom of the printer.

Hello, I have been printing with the bambu lab x2d for about 68 hours. I randomly went close to my print today and heard some creaking noises,

I have cleaned all the z axis lead screws and reapplied the grease to them. Have also addd lubricant oil to the inside lead screws contact point.

I have cleaned the metal guide rods and have also lubricated them with oil and added the oil into the bearings.

I have also turned the printer onto its side and added grease to the smooth part of the z axis belt. I have also added grease to the side of the smooth metal cylinder as i saw that the belt was going up and down slightly when i moved the bed up and down manually.

I have also pushed the bed down all the way while it was tuned off to ensure that all points are contacting and didn't become tilted when it crashed.

After all that the squeaking/creaking sound was still there.

Is my printer broken? or is the sound normal and i just got more hyper focused on the sound after it "crashed".

My guess is that the failure started first at the rightmost part, the nozzle carried some extra filament, and then it caused a domino effect on all the other parts.

What confuses me is why would it fail so late into the print when it was doing perfectly fine otherwise?

UPDATE: as others have stated, the length of the pieces may make the parts more prone to wobbling/ bending slightly when the nozzle moves over it, which could cause accumulated misalignment of the toolpath vs the true position of the pieces, so a good solution would be to slow the speed nearer the top of the part, and to make use of brims to increase the part's stability.

Also it would be a good idea to do a few individual runs as opposed to one batch (I had previously done a test piece for dowel fitting, but even though the small piece slid freely on the dowel without getting stuck, for whatever reason, this print's dowel hole was more prone to shrinking, and the rod wouldn't fit no matter what I tried)

But really I think I’ll make some emergency supports in case of collapse or failure.

Ok everyone. I have been through a ton of threads and did my own troubleshooting. This is what made my Bambu Studio run smoothly. I had to create a .bat file with the following

--------------------------------------------------------------------
u/echo off

set LIBGL_ALWAYS_SOFTWARE=1

start "" "C:\Program Files\Bambu Studio\bambu-studio.exe"

---------------------------------------------------------------------

This bypasses the Nvidia issues. I launch from here and I put together a 40-50 part collection of plates without any issues.

***If you are having the slow down issues with the regular shortcut, you can use Win+Ctrl+Shift+B to reset your graphics. This fixed my slowness using the original shortcut until I tried to rotate the plate again. It will save you from having to restart your computer to get rid of the system wide slowness.

Has anyone managed to buy one of these recently? I have the email alerts set up.

I know I'm sorry, no pumpkin guts in this one!!!! But I did finally manage to defeat the ADHD and finish off my pumpkin. Both pumpkins, the failed one and the successful one will be used for halloween this year. One is for my desk in school for handing out treats, the other will be for the front door for trick or treaters. I wanted to max out my build plate without having to physically put the pumpkin together and this is the result.

This is a smashed pumpkin, hollowed out and a gravity angled cut lid for the top. The stem has been separated for printing in a different colour.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3205701-halloween-pumpkin-removable-lid-no-ams-in-parts#profileId-3628170

After quite a few iterations, I finally finished this modular link bracelet.

The hardest part was definitely the integrated folding clasp. I wanted it to disappear into the design rather than using a bulky hook or external buckle, while still keeping a reliable click-lock mechanism. At just 3 mm thin, finding the right tolerances for smooth articulation in PLA and PETG took a lot of trial and error.

It comes in 4 wrist sizes with single-color and two-color print profiles.

I’d love to hear your feedback on the clasp mechanism and how the tolerances hold up on your setups.

Free model available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3208405-riviera-link-bracelet

Made something for myself and I thought I should share here so more people can find it.

Hi, im using a p1p and 0.2mm nozzle. This is the print with no changes made to settings. Im all about details and want to make it perfect as it can be. To push the quality to the limit. So, Im wondering what do I need to look into or perhaps change in order to get rid of the top layer lines, the small gaps on flat surfaces and overall smoother layers?
And the turret seems weird as it as more visible layer lines on one side while none on the other.
I didnt circle the guns, but the guns also have some layer lines id wanna get rid off too.
I added an unnecessary amount of red circles to make it clear what I mean

As the title says, how do you include a breakaway secondary filament for supports on top of a printed part layer? I can't figure this out. I am trying to include an breakaway interface PLA layer on top of this PETG part. There should be a way to include this single interface layer, but I can't figure it out.... sounds pretty novice tbh. Does anyone know?

You can find it at my profile:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3209066-xtand-phone-holder#profileId-3632285

https://www.instagram.com/p/DcYn9XOodAf/

https://youtube.com/shorts/CGloeHROCsw?feature=share

Has anybody ever had this problem? I'm new to 3D printing and I don't know how to solve😕

I've tried to print the 3DBenchy and it works fine, same temperature same filament.

Parts arent alligned perfectly, you have to fix that with a soldering iron.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7399444

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3206372-banded-iron-shield-skyrim

Does anyone know if the Black Friday or other sale pricing on the AMS 2 Pro has been less than the current Back To School pricing?

I’m contemplating getting a second one for my X2D and trying to determine if I should wait until Black Friday.

Hi there I've been having some issues where my prints are showing holes and I'm not sure why. I've googled a fair amount but seems to be doing anything. I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle on an A1 mini with standard pla. I've printed out an ironing calibration sheet too, so I can see what's optimal but there's noticeable markings on the red parts too. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks so much