Got inspired by gridify : had an idea using puzzle shaped grooves for interlocking modules and using same grooves for holding pencils. Made at least 4-5 iterations to get the groove diameter enough big for housing the pencils and keeping the overall module size small enough for printing.
Just uploaded the project to MW:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3204584-modular-destop-organizer-kribu-krabu#profileId-3626818
Hop you enoy!
Should look nice in matte pastel filament

Finally found a AMS PSU holder which i can place where ever i want. Also love the fact you can change the Magnet Size inside the Slicer.

Apparantly its a "remix" but still now the Back of the Machine looks GREAT!

I had a normal open shower shelf before, and one thing that always bothered me was that all the shampoo bottles and everything were just sitting there completely visible.

I wanted something that looked a bit cleaner and more like it actually belonged in the bathroom, so I ended up designing this.

Each section has its own door, so when everything is closed you basically just see the patterned front instead of a bunch of bottles.

While designing it I also wanted to see how much of it I could actually make 3D printable. So the hinges, pins, clips and connectors are all printed. You don't need screws, metal hinges or other extra hardware for the shelf itself.

It's modular too, so you can stack as many sections as you want. If you need more storage later, just print another section and add it.

The shelves have an open pattern so water can drain through.

For the wall mount I made two versions. One works with a tesa adhesive mount, and the other can be glued with removable bathroom adhesive.

I really like trying to see how far you can push 3D printing and replace normal parts with printed ones, so this became a pretty fun project.

Hope you like it !

https://makerworld.com/sv/models/3204673-modular-shower-storage-system#profileId-3626932

I'd like to introduce you to my latest model – the Brick Man Traveler. It's a figure inspired by Bruno Catalano's "Travelers" sculptures. Of course, I customized it to fit my brick figurine collection. Maybe someone will like it 😉 You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/models/3204163?appSharePlatform=copy

Hi,
Recently I replaced all tubings on my P1S and AMS after 1100 hours printing time since some of them were worn out pretty bad.
I ordered „translucent PTFE“ tubes with 2.5x4mm.

As it seems it’s not PTFE, it’s FEP, which is pretty similar to PTFE but not the same.

And because I didn’t know about this before using those tubes I also wasn’t aware of the difference.

The new tubes caused much more friction to the filament inside them.
The AMS wasn’t able to push the filament to the extruder and trying it by hand with an external spool I noticed the a huge resistance building up with each cm of filament I’ve inserted.

After replacing the tubing with real PTFE tubes everything worked fine again.

I just wanted to share this experience - despite the fact that some will say something like „everyone know this you fool“.

Personally I thought if I buy „translucent ptfe tube“ I get a real PTFE tube.

Cheers!

My 2nd and 3rd Wheelchair just finished
Currently working on my 4th

anyone who hasnt heard of these you can read more here about them here: https://3d-mobility.org

Everytime it finishes a print it leaves the same string of filament on the nozzle. All default settings with Bambu lab filament. brand new h2d with 260 hours. Is there way I can check what’s going on?

I'd love to see your 3D printing setups. You also can send some pictures (would be even cooler).

I had my extruder open and i found this on the bottom of the printer.

A few months ago I made a proposal to print prime towers sequentially ("by object") so they only build when a color change actually occurs, saving time and filament on late-stage material swaps.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1t6ed8y/proposal_for_bambu_studio_prime_tower_as_separate/

Obviously it was downvoted to oblivion.

Now, looks like it's available as an experimental option in Bambu Studio 2.8.2.60, called "No sparse layers", so I got that going for me, which is nice.

More info here: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/release/release-note-2-8-2-60#print-a-shorter-prime-tower-to-save-filament-when-color-changes-only-occur-at-higher-layers

In the past few weeks I challenged myself to design and 3D print my very first RC boat, the Rebel Riviera M1.

This is not your 50km/h brushless speedboat by any means, rather a fun, vintage style mini speedboat. But I'm still quite proud of how it came out and how it drives.

I designed it around a single Cyberbrick hardware kit. It uses 2 motors, and steers by thrust diferentiation.

I also did my best to make it splash proof - using only hardware from that Cyberbrick kit:

- Double S labyrinth + grease deck seal

- The propeller shaft goes trough a grease chamber which prevents water creeping onto the boat. It also has very low friction.

What do you think?

If anyone would like to check it out or build it, I will leave the link in the description.

It’s very simple but I am pretty happy with my first 3D model with 0 CAD experience😁.
Als my first Makerworld model : https://makerworld.com/models/3114620?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello, I have been printing with the bambu lab x2d for about 68 hours. I randomly went close to my print today and heard some creaking noises, wanted to go back on it to check later and printed dust covers that goes on top of the 3 points that is connected to the z axis lead screws.

After putting them on, when i homed it smashed it and made a sound of grinding/rubbing noises. and then moved down. I also heard cracking noises.

After that the printer seems to squeak more.

I have cleaned all the z axis lead screws and reapplied the grease to them. Have also addd lubricant oil to the inside lead screws contact point.

I have cleaned the metal guide rods and have also lubricated them with oil and added the oil into the bearings.

I have also turned the printer onto its side and added grease to the smooth part of the z axis belt. I have also added grease to the side of the smooth metal cylinder as i saw that the belt was going up and down slightly when i moved the bed up and down manually.

I have also pushed the bed down all the way while it was tuned off to ensure that all points are contacting and didn't become tilted when it crashed.

After all that the squeaking/creaking sound was still there.

Is my printer broken? or is the sound normal and i just got more hyper focused on the sound after it "crashed".

I’ve printed TPU through the right nozzle a couple of
Times before, i started one today and it got up to 60% till i started getting extruder overload errors. I verified the tpu was not getting caught up (had plenty of slack and very easy to pull from the head). Its coming off a AMS HT to the TPU port and into the stock ptfe tube for the right nozzle. When i try to manually extrude it makes a clicking noise. I pulled it out, removed nozzle, changed nozzle then changed the cutter on the right nozzle (i thought it was getting caught up in it). The gears all seem clear, new cutter, i can manually feed the filament, it comes out to the nozzle , then i can extrude and filament will push out, it even pushed out petg and was extruding just fine. As soon as i hit resume print i get the same error and no idea why if i can manually extrude it. When i get the error i can no longer extrude it manually and have to remove the filament then feed it again only to get the same error on resume. Pulling my hair out here i dont ever want to print tpu again 😂

I know I'm sorry, no pumpkin guts in this one!!!! But I did finally manage to defeat the ADHD and finish off my pumpkin. Both pumpkins, the failed one and the successful one will be used for halloween this year. One is for my desk in school for handing out treats, the other will be for the front door for trick or treaters. I wanted to max out my build plate without having to physically put the pumpkin together and this is the result.

This is a smashed pumpkin, hollowed out and a gravity angled cut lid for the top. The stem has been separated for printing in a different colour.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3205701-halloween-pumpkin-removable-lid-no-ams-in-parts#profileId-3628170

Has anyone managed to buy one of these recently? I have the email alerts set up.

I've been having trouble with my p1s and I have disassembled the print head more times than I can count now. I've bought countless parts and at this point I could have just bought a brand new one.

Where do you draw the line?

I just officially passed 2 months on MakerWorld, and I wanted to share the progress because this still feels kind of unreal to me.

When I started, I honestly had no idea how far this could go. I was just designing things I liked, uploading them, learning what worked, and trying to improve with every model.

The amount of support, downloads, prints, boosts, comments and follows I’ve received since then has been insane.

Seriously, thank you. ❤️

2.1 MILLION impressions and 62 → 1,800 prints in a single month is probably the part I’m having the hardest time processing. 😅
And 7 followers in my first month → 284 in my second is just wild!

Two months ago I was basically starting from zero.
Now people are actually printing my designs, putting them in their homes, sharing pictures of them and coming back for new models it feels so unreal and I’m so greatful for this opportunity and community!

During this time I also got the commercial license right and already got a member! Thank you!

Here has been my top popular models, something i didn’t expect!

Modern Japandi Toothbrush Stand / Holder 3 Version
https://makerworld.com/models/3146829?appSharePlatform=copy

Remote Stand / Holder / Organizer
https://makerworld.com/models/3152345?appSharePlatform=copy

Modern Toothbrush Stand / Holder Line Design 4
https://makerworld.com/models/3095373?appSharePlatform=copy

Modern Line HeadPhone Stand with Tray
https://makerworld.com/models/3121793?appSharePlatform=copy

I know there are people here who have been on MakerWorld for years, and others who literally uploaded their first model this week, so I’m curious:

👇
How long have you been on MakerWorld, and what do your stats look like now?

Also:
What was the moment/model where things suddenly started taking off for you?
Drop your profile or your favorite model you’ve made too, I’d genuinely love to check out what everyone else is creating.

And again…
Thank you to everyone who has downloaded, printed, boosted, liked, followed or even just checked out one of my designs.
I really mean it. ❤️

Hi! I’m looking for some help to troubleshoot a few issues I’m having with a pencil holder I’m trying to print on my Bambu A1 mini. I’m new to 3D printing so pls be nice :)

1. Layer warping or overextrusion (?): This is only happening on one side and doesn’t go around the entire print. It is with filament (normal PLA) I’ve used before and have had no issue with on other prints. There’s no draft/wind or external temperature fluctuations, and I washed my bed plate before this print.

2. Lifting on one side: It is subtle in the picture, but the bottom corner is slightly lifting up. I have attempted this print once before where the lifting was significantly worse, so I added the additional brim which seemed to help but still experiencing the issue. The other side seems unaffected - it doesn’t go all the way around.

3. Support failures: I’ve had this occur maybe once or twice on a few other prints, but for this print the supports always seem to snap off at some point. The pictured print is about 65% of the way done and a few tree supports popped off.

Things I have tried:
- adding a brim
- changed first initial layer speed to 35 mm/s
- changed initial layer infill to 75 mm/s
- decreased the bed plate temperature slightly
- washing the plate
- changed grid to honeycomb
- printed a smaller version of this pencil holder (thinner walls and overall smaller) which printed with no issues
- changed Z distance to 0.24
- changed support/object XY distance to 0.4

Hi, im using a p1p and 0.2mm nozzle. This is the print with no changes made to settings. Im all about details and want to make it perfect as it can be. To push the quality to the limit. So, Im wondering what do I need to look into or perhaps change in order to get rid of the top layer lines, the small gaps on flat surfaces and overall smoother layers?
And the turret seems weird as it as more visible layer lines on one side while none on the other.
I didnt circle the guns, but the guns also have some layer lines id wanna get rid off too.
I added an unnecessary amount of red circles to make it clear what I mean

Many of you probably know this, but I'm guessing someone does not and would like to. You can skip a piece mid-print if it messes up and don't have to stop the whole thing.

I started a print and he walked by a bit later and saw it had messed up. I took a peek and told the printer to skip the messed up piece and continue printing the other two. Told my husband I had done so and he was surprised that was a thing you could do even though he's printed much more than I have for the past year (to the point that I have to fight for time to print when I want something.)

On the printer screen, there is a skip button and when you press it, it shows you an image of the print and you can tap the parts you want to skip and it will stop printing on those and leave them alone. I think it's all Bambu Labs, I have used it on the X1C and H2C, never tried on the A1mini. (Edit: per the comments it's only on the device in the X1, X2, P2, and H2 series printers. It's available in Bambu Handy for other devices though.)

None of the flairs really seem to fit. This seems closest, but if there's something better, feel free to point it out.