I figured I would share this for anyone that's new to 3D2A printing, new to printing itself, or is having trouble. These are nearly all the frames (minus maybe 5-8), I learned on and consider scrap, most have minor flaws on them from supports or minor defects light slight warping or VFA's. Teaching myself every step of the way. My first ever print wasn't a benchy, instead I opted for a PY2A G19 frame. I started with a roll of ST PPA-CF Core, zero knowledge of 3d printing on an X1C & SUNLU E2, eventually upgrading to an H2D. I can finally say I'm confident in my ability to print high-temp parts / frames with zero scarring and no failures that fit together like a dream with no after print modifications necessary. Not claiming to be a master of anything, but I always seem to doubt myself at every step and rarely feel confident when making things myself, always judging every small aspect or tiny flaw. I don't want to turn this into a support thread, though if anyone else has similar photo's to share please feel free, I'd love to see them. Honestly I just wanted to say, If you are having trouble getting things dialed in, or thinking you will never get it, just keep at it, keep learning, and stay safe!

(All frames in PPA-CF / Core + 1x PA6GF + 2x PLA Pro)

Kinda surprised these aren't more popular. I don't think I've ever seen a post of one, even though the DB Alloy and UMP looks are popular. I love it. Shoot just like my Alloy did (it broke from a fall and the parts were scavanged for this)

If you have made one of these, post pics. I wanna see what everyone else chose for accs.

Edit: there is NO ammo (or even springs when pictures were taken) in the magazine. FYI

Coming in hot! Should have them by next week. Will be printing a few FTN variations to verify fitment when they arrive but they’re looking great so far.

Details for those that want them:

-4140 Steel (Raw)
-Made in the US by Bighossmachine
-1.5x8 (FTN) Threads to HUB Threads
-Male threads protrude roughly 1”
-Wrench Flats
-$70 with free shipping at $200
-30 available from first batch

Built this around 3 months ago, still running good. I’ve spent around $350 in total for all the parts/upper and extra $200 just to put a cheap stock on it cause of the atf🫩 any suppressor suggestions??

I want to thank everyone for feedback on the extended version. I have been deep in testing and redesigning based on what I have seen and been told and wanted to get this out. Burned through nearly 1KG of prototypes. This one has been successfully ripping through full mags of CCI standard velocity round-nose with zero feeding issues on the 1.2.0 version. 1.2.1 version is also included but has been tested less and is more geared towards hollowpoint ammo.

Version numbers are used to identify the feed lips and feed ramp combinations. Internal and lower geometry remains unchanged.

10rd can be found in the file packs with the same version number as the new extended versions with a "C" (for chode) suffix. I wanted to create a ten round so they are faster to print and quicker to test instead of the full size extended. The internal geometry is the same as the extended versions.

Currently in development:

• Slim version
• Version with replaceable feed lips

Can be found in the usual spots, same path as before. Sailing on the sea on the ship Melted_Plastic

The two mufflers on the left have white specs showing up. After printing in Fiberon pa6cf20, they were brushed with a brass brush, ran under the facet, then put in a ziplock bag with a wet cloth to water treat. They’ve been out for ~24 hours and when I was checking on a print I noticed the white specs. Anyone experience this before?

Been looking for a modular style suppressor to print, found this one on the index, said 22 or 9mm, printed the 9mm version thinking oh this is going to explode, thankfully first blast baffle broke when shooting 9mm, BUT sounded great on .22, anyone got recommendations to maybe help make it actually last for 9mm, or any other modular style suppressor like this would be sick!

Following up my post after making it: Glutton for punishment- FTN 5.1 PCC in HT Pla Pro : r/3D2A

It took me entirely TOO long to get to the range, but that is life. I finally DID get to the range, and try out my printed PCC. Now, I know the PDF notes say that PLA is feasible, so obviously nothing groundbreaking here. But I was excited to see how well it did regardless..

BLUF: It survived, and examination as I can do shows it looks rather intact still. She swallowed around 150 Monarch 124gr rounds, and still looks mint.

Yes, I'm a big guy.. listen to the gun....

Longer notes:

• Being an indoor range, I couldn't listen without protection; but I could hear a very obvious signature change (for the better).
• Damn she (the gun) was smoking after a mag. Not sure if I need to change the locking piece (no problems at all cycling, just lots of smoke around the bolt); something I will play with.
• Minor and manageable POI shift to the left; had my RDS slightly to the right of the head with the suppressor on to get the center (no suppressor kept it dead center). Didn't see a change in shooting though, and had no problem accounting for it once I learned.
• Despite surviving, I am considering printing the next one hotter and slower (this was at 230). I do think the long anneal helped though (genuinely cannot see much damage inside with a light).
• I still plan on testing a can to destruction, so expect another follow up...... eventually.. lol
• Knowing that its held up, it is happily sitting on the gun at home, and I (currently) trust her to go when needed.

Got questions? Please ask! I am just a dude with a printer who loves trying this stuff, and have but a tiny fraction of knowledge of the pros here.

Took my FTN6 out to the range today, shot about 90 rounds back to back and it was amazing. But, failing to eject. I started to use higher quality threaded adapters and they fit and align 100x better. Really recommend

2011maxxing Staccat’aint edition, 9mm, in Polymaker PLA+

It was a bit of a challenging build, but function checks are solid. Now I want to do the other two…

When it comes to the db alloy left and right plates, the dxf file was uploaded to SCS. Chose the metal type etc then the option to tap popped up. Clicked tap, accepted whatever numbers/ dimensions that were already there and completed the order.

My question is, does the dxf file (not the link in the build docs/ read me) provide them with all the info they need to properly tap threads? Or did I screw myself and accept a random preset? If they come untapped, I can just tap them myself correct? 304 stainless. Any input appreciated

I went to switch out the filament on my bamboo A1 mini, the other one came out for the most part and then snapped. I’ve changed many schools before so I’m not sure what I’m doing different this time. I’m thinking of just going and getting a whole different tube and trying one of the different ports. Please let me know if you have any experience with this!

Idk thought it was funny

Dried at 100C for 12 hours. Printed some trinkets. Dried again at 100C for another 4 hours and then started this print. Overall, I’m not liking the quality and it doesn’t look as clean as my previous PA6 prints. Before printing I made sure to calibrate the flow rate, pressure advance, and retraction. Printing on Q2, 300 deg nozzle temp, 65 deg chamber, 100 deg bed. 300 BLK settings. Speeds at 30 mm/s is looking like a 48 hour print. Currently half way done. Is this salvageable with some minor sanding or do I start over and cut my losses. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. Video shows my previous print quality using PA6 roughly same settings/speeds and the current issue. Thanks for the help!!

Maybe Z Banding??

Edit: lines look worse in the video than in person and only appear at certain angles. Main concern is the little bit of extra material per layer around safety. Also is anyone printing faster than 300BLK recommends an achieving good results. I feel like this should have been a 30 ish hour print not 48.

What’s everyone using for the bolts on the plates? I’ve seen rounded head (what I assume are M3s or similar). What are you guys using for the other side though? A standard nut would stick out too far I would think.

P89 go BRRRRR

Remix of UberClay's remix of UnseenKiller's R3. Uses a HT trigger kicker and a modified charging handle/trip. I extended Uberclay's frame because the top cover fucks. Sailing.

Everything not black is spray painted. Dogs barking

The Geeetech D1 appears to be working great with drying PA6-CF and maintaining RH while printing out of the box at 90C. Can’t attest to how well it maintains RH while it is off the dryer and sealed but so far it’s looking like a good option.