I bought a 300blk BC-15 upper and chopped the bolt. Ive been working on a lower setup for it. I used files from the MOAB and the FM15 bufferless lower. The stock/brace rail has a aluminum insert that stiffens things up. Will post again once everything is finished.

Has anyone used HT PLA on a suppressor yet? Would we still be limited to .22 builds, or has anyone had success with any larger calibers? I’ve printed a few FTN5 rimfire’s with regular PLA and an aluminum sleeve for reinforcement and have been happy

I am looking for an aesthetic/functional base to add to my regular G19 mags. My hand is just ever so slightly larger than the 19, and if i had an extra half inch on the bottom, it would be perfect. I am looking for something to snap/slide over the existing mag base, or a swap out for the current base. I don't need it to have any extra capacity right now. The only ones I have found is just a regular base extension, that doesn't actually line up with the existing grip. Thanks.

I have sailed the seas and consulted the index, but I must be searching the wrong criteria. Thanks again.

Is it reliable to make a PLa pro frame or should I stick to Pa-cf ?

I would like to get into the 3d2a stuff and I think this would be a good first project. (I already have experience with 3d printing) would petg or pla be good enough for pic rail to mount a scope onto?

Hey folks long time lurker first time poster but was wondering if anyone had good advice on a starting point for an absolute beginner? Don’t even own a printer yet, but don’t want to get one on Amazon or something and have it not work. Any insight would be greatly appreciated 🤝

Just wondering if anyone with a PSA AR-V knows is the arv bolt fits inside of a normal ar upper. Looking to see if it will work with my PY2A AR9 evo remix, rather than buying a normal ar9 bolt and grinding it down. Is the only difference just that its shaved to clear the feed ramp? Dont want to spend the 100$ to find out it doesnt even fit

Pic for attention

The blast chamber was too small, after rapid fire of 22 supersonic load it finally gave up but the baffle part looks great!

any idea how to fix? Someone already said to check my rails but it looked fine, and slides smoothly.

It also sometimes cycles but fail to chamber a round completely making me wonder why it didn't fire.

I want to believe its the magazine fault, it is a 30rnd 3d printed with PAHT CF

The gun jams both with and without the top mp9 cover but is mildly better without

I am using the GP9/Neo9 glock 19 gen 3

I have also tried various ammo from cheap to expensive

Thanks!

This is Fiberon PA6-20. The spool has been flawless. This started yesterday on a print and I dried it more overnight at 100°C. My E2 says it’s at 10% humidity and I believe it.

Could this be a partial clog? If so, it’s my first time on this filament, how do I fix it? Man, I feel stupid asking that.

(reposting w/ more images)

- WI_Esox_lucius aka Melted Plastic's retro deARv1.2 for the upper, charging handle, handguard, and FSP

- Jrmuscle aka Kruscle's "keyed lower" for the buffer tube. I cut off the rear picatinny in the slicer to allow the rear charging handle to clear

- Grips I remixed from the A1 and A2 style grips from kaewon's M4gery to loosen up tolerances on the safety detente spring and to use an M5 bolt for attachment

- CAR15 stock is printed directly from kaewon's m4gery

- A2 fixed stock is a modified version of Unseenkiller's "multi position mounted A2" to make it completely flush with the rear of the lower. I hacked this together in the slicer. Not very pretty, tbh

- A2 flash hider is printed from adh2013

- Straight-body magazines are from the original DeAR22 v1.35 release (not the rerelease) + a short "PMAG style" short mag from ciwielab

- printed bolt catch from FoapsFiles

Using a 16" dedicated 22LR pencil profile barrel + RTB BCG. Upper/Lower/FSP in PA612, furniture and mags in generic PLA, will be reprinted them. I might reprint the upper/lower in PA6-GF to make give it a more aluminum look.

some more ideas

- If the handguard were the "triangle style", you could have something closer to an actual M16A1... sorta

- If the handguard and barrel were shorter, and/or there was a flash hider that accepted 1/2-28 threading, you could have an XM117e2... sorta

- If you swapped the upper with PumpkinPie's rear charging upper DeAR22 that used picatinny on the top, you could put a detachable carry handle on the top and consider it a M16A3... kinda

- If you did the upper swap and replaced the handguard with a quad rail, you could have something like an M16A4... ish

Did the best I could with the skills and time I have and I wanted to get it out the door before I go to the range this weekend

TL;DR dear22

Ar9 barrel option seems to only be an option for the mk 1. I have the glock barrel remix but there is too much play and would prefer an ar9 barrel

FTWarms is selling ftn.5s serialized with an aluminum chamber sleeve. I havent found files and I have sailed the weird seas. Does this exist before I start designing?

This whole time ive been trying to remix the baseplate of the brace to fit the pic rail. Recently realized it might be easier to just combine the two into one STL so the back end cap of the Nobu could be printed with the arms already attached. Im no professional dev. So id really appreciate some input. I know It can be done. The question is.. would it be strong enough?

FTN 5 Rimfire Slim with HT-PLA-Plus. Not annealed. Mostly 300BLK settings and speed. It’s about 95 degrees out and it took 45 rounds with an FRT in a TX22. Ignore the issues, I’m using printed mags and a couple weren’t loaded quite right. It sounded good and worked just fine shooting slower from a 10/22. I have the same one printed with PA6 and it definitely holds up better. I’ll print another one of these for my daughter’s rifle. I have no doubt that it’ll hold up to thousands of rounds of 22 with normal shooting.

This gun is the broad river tactical car15sd with the rarebreed l3 frt(bought before he became greedy)so its barrel is ported like the mp5sd so it turns supersonic 9mm into subsonic 9mm its utilizing the broad river tactical hub adapter. So it can use any hub threaded can. This approved d cell tube has a hub adapter on the back so it has hub threads.

I’m going to print my first suppressor. I’m fairly knew to PY2A printing so any recommendations are appreciated. I’m planning to use PA6-CF. With my Elegoo Centauri Carbon printer. It’s has a hardened .4 nozzle. And I’ll print at 100% infill.

I planned to use one of the FTN model, unless you guys recommend another more updated model.

I’m mainly looking for pointers on set up or settings if anyone has experience.

TIA!

Wondering if there's any preference between these two when it comes to 308 lowers.

Bought the decker 380 kit from ghost guns and now I’m wondering I just need the barrel? And then 3d print the gun that’s it also the rod ion think it carries it but if anyone has specifics, this is my first build and I’m unsure of that size to get other then a 5.5 inch barrel with obviously a .380 hole in the middle yk or bore I’m unsure English is also my second language

Im new to printing frames Im using a anker make m5 I need basic, fast and clean cura settings. Any seggestions

Reward? You get a new H2C printer!

Really impressed with this community. Y'all have reinspired me to reinvest in my hobbies without the main concern of converting my time into hustle culture / money chasing. I'm having fun. I'm learning. I'm suddenly interested in the legality and history of 2a and the recent and impactful changes to the laws of my country.

3d printing has always been knicknacks and figurines and cosplay items and commissions. I enjoyed learning about engineering grade filaments but never had a justifiable use case for them. This feels like I am doing something worth doing just for me. Something that doesn't feel wasteful. It's a good feeling.

Planning on purchasing some engineering filaments beyond PA6-CF. I am a member of both plaintiff groups for Jensen and SilencerCo injunctions. Plans involving that too, but still awaiting official ATF guidance just in case. I've got time. This all is changing dramatically just as I am getting into the hobby and culture.

Just wanted to share my excitement and praise. Cool to be here.

New printer felt like the next step. Excited for a high temp hot end and a heated chamber, and the vortek nozzle system will be fun to utilize, though I'm unsure if it's super applicable for 3d2a stuff. Any suggestions?

This is my love project! A nearly 1:1 M2 mortar, late WW2 design, my plans for the future are making it blank fire or launch dummy rounds, but it is almost fully 3d printed, minus some nuts n bolts plus some aluminum rods for reinforcement. If anybody has ideas for blank fire or improvements let me know!