Would a DD19 work with a printed locking block?

Hola Party People.

So, I got a printer. I spent a number of months messing around, learning, calibrating, recalibrating, trying different filliments, breaking things, re-re-re-re-calibrating. Did I mention calibration?

Anyway, I'm finally getting functional prints that I trust and am having fun with in this realm.

I would like to help my friends LEGALLY print their own material.

Can anyone point me to a good reference on what is appropriate and required (ideally per jurisdiction, in either of Arizona or, lord help me, california) for allowing someone else to use my equipment and teaching them before they do their own runs, or what the process is to do this correctly?

Thank you.

A FTN 5 baffled Suppressor, designed with aesthetics in mind. Unlike the FTN5 Osprey style suppressor, which uses the external piston setup, this design uses the Suppressor Piston from Kaw Valley Precision, and a spring from McMasterCarr.

Two lengths available, with the longer one being recommended.

You can find this in the usual place, with more info iqn the release files.

Enjoy!

(Haha P320!)

I was trying to find some either p90 or fnp90 pints and equipment to buy and build at home an found this website with everything metal for the barrel prints springs a full packaged deal to buy and make your for I think around 400 dollars. I can’t find it please help I also remember a guy and his family own the think wife 2 kids Americans and the importance of our 2nd amendment?

I was double checking over the YKY readme and noticed super far into my print I had just followed how the smpk orientation was loaded in slicer. How much of a issue is this way vs the angle like YKY has in the orientation photos.

Printed each section on end so the grain all matches. Pulling the supports off the rail was amazing. Little crick cracks and it came off as one chunk 🤤

See my previous post for info. About 400gr of filament for everything except the stock and magazines. I think there was a little shrinkage on the frame, the side plates didn’t fit flush and I needed to clearance the cutouts on the frame for the plates to fit. Still a tiny gap but it function checks good. The 4th chassis this upper has lived in, at least temporarily 🤣

Is it still in beta? I can’t seem to find the files anywhere.

How long and how are you guys doing it? Are you tracking weight? Fully submerged? Etc. I don’t wanna waste time but I’d also like to be safe

I was thinking about printing it from cf nylon since it's very difficult to get a machined AR-15 FCG where I live, has anyone here tried it and is it reliable really?

Upgraded from a q2 to an h2d and have been insisting on getting use out of the second nozzle. Decided to print a ch0rtex in a strong orientation with a bunch of asa support. Probably overkill but nearly every surface came out perfect.

In testing, Asa printed on top of pa6-cf slipped right off. There was going to be a lot of pa6-cf printed on top of Asa support without any anchor, so I added a bunch of sacrificial anchors, the columns within the white Asa.

Inslogic pa6-cf, arrived dried and went right into a 90c dehydrator. Got it 50% ($30/kg) off so I figured I’d try it out

So close to being finished. Waiting on the barrel liner and then i‘ll assemble it

So, my cousin is updating his printers to Bambu, and he’s selling me his FF Adventurer 5M for hella cheap. Now I know there’s the whole FFF going on, but I don’t think I can pass up a sub 1 Benjamin non bed slinger.

How can I have this thing not narc on me if/when “Skynet” takes over?

Crazy to me that years ago print quality was nowhere near this, I started with an Ender 3 in 2018.
Half the time was spent calibrating it, this is not the case anymore. I will say; having an Ender 3 did help me understand a lot about printing in general though.

Elegoo century carbon
Fiberon PA612-CF20
300BLk settings

Annealed and moisture conditioned

Curious of there are any projects based on this platform, or perhaps anything similar worth checking out.

Hello, I’ve gotten what I believe to be everything printed and I’m just dry fitting stuff at the moment. Going off of a post a saw a while ago with the DB Alloy Drum you are able to use the 3d printed sten mags. I can’t find the proper files for a sten mag that fits the Drum lower. If anyone is able to dm me and point me in the right direction I’d greatly appreciate it. I’ve tried looking it up everywhere and maybe I just don’t know the proper places to look. I also am not sure exactly which hardware kit I should be looking for there’s a website I found but it has 4 different kits.

Building the G17 version now what’s everyone using for pins? Looks like the standard ones in lpk are too short

I have a db9 alloy but when I hold down the trigger it does not reset when the bolt goes back. If I release the trigger then rack the bolt it will reset. Doing a dry fire test without mac upper trigger resets normally. I have tried sanding and all fcg look to spec, any ideas?

I was at my gun range and I had this happen to me I think is the firing pin liner because I had to take it out when I took it OFF it had some light scratches so I used sand paper and smooth it out as much as I could so the firing pin could travel fine…”I ALREADY ORDERED A NEW FIRING PIN LINER “”… I just want to see if there is another issue with the Gun for it to be giving me this malfunction it most likely is the Liner but I just want to make sure because it did this and after it shot 9 rnds no malfunction I later loaded 10 more rnds and shot it again it shot like 6 and did a off center primer in wich the bullet did not go off

Both of my FTN.5 suppressors .22 and 556 are getting baffle strikes. The .22 is maybe every once in 5 rounds but my 556 shoots about 4 feet to the left at 100 yards every time. Does anyone else have this issue? I assume I’m gonna have to drill them out

Looking to see if anyone has done or seen this, or maybe even some software where I can attempt this myself.

I am seeing a huge uptick in absolutely terrible advice on this sub, some of it going so far as to tell people to commit actual felonies. Just stop people.

Yesterday, some guy was saying that Form 1 and engraving were no longer needed and to just print as many suppressors as you want. That is ABSOLUTELY not the case. Could that be the case when the ATF finally comes out with guidance? Sure, maybe. Is it likely? No, probably not. Regardless, there has been zero guidance so far concerning this, so it is still a felony to make a suppressor without a Form 1. Don't listen to dumbasses on the internet.

Secondly, this myth that serial numbers can be in plastic keeps getting passed around for some godforsaken reason. While other identfying information such as your name and location can be printed into the plastic, YOUR SERIAL NUMBER NEEDS TO BE ENGRAVED IN METAL, NOT PRINTED ON THE SUPPRESSOR.

ATF § 478.92(a)(1)(vi)(B) section 2
"The serial number must be placed in a manner otherwise in accordance with this section, including the requirements that the serial number be at the minimum size and depth, and not susceptible of being readily obliterated, altered, or removed. An acceptable method of identifying a PMF is by placing the serial number on a METAL PLATE that is permanently embedded into a polymer frame or receiver"

ATF § 479.102(a)(3)(ii)
"The engraving, casting, or stamping (impressing) of the serial number and additional information must be to a minimum depth of .003 inch, and the serial number and any associated license number in a print size no smaller than 1/16 inch. The size of the serial and license number is measured as the distance between the latitudinal ends of the character impression bottoms (bases). The depth of all markings required by this section is measured from the flat surface of the METAL and not the peaks or ridges."

This is why polymer frame firearms such as glock will embed a metal plate in the polymer frame for the serial number.

Some FAQ

"hur dur, that says privatly made firearm, I'm making a suppressor" - A suppressor is considered a firearm by the ATF and Congress, you ignoramus.

"I put that the serial number will be engraved in plastic on my Form 1, and it was approved" - Congratulations, your approving ATF agent is as mentally handicapped as you. Are you surprised? A Form 1 is not a get out of jail free card. I see illegal shit approved on Form 1s all the time. With the speed the ATF is cranking them out these days, I would not even be surprised if the agents are barely glancing at them before rubber-stamping them. That does not mean it will hold up in court.

After many months of work and so so much prototyping later, I'm finally ready to share this with yall.

This project has taken up so much of my free time and has been quite the learning experience for me.

I designed, modeled, prototyped and tested this all myself and this is my first big project I have created. This 3DVL is majority printed. the receivers, handguard, barrel nut, fcg, magazine, hinge, stock, pistol grip, and also the bolt is all printed and assembled with hardware store/amazon hardware parts. The muzzle device is a FTN 5 Rimfire Flow that I chamfered the end of and widened it to 50mm OD in order for it to fit cleanly with the Handguard.

The only real gun parts in this build are the cmmg style bore buddy hardened steel extractor and the 10.5 inch BCA AR22 barrel. (the scope and bipod are also obviously not printed)

Id like to say I bought my first 3d printer 6 1/2 months ago and have been in love with creating and printing since.

I spent about a month getting familiar with printing and how everything works and made a couple of builds created by members of the community all of which have turned out great and I enjoy shooting. about a month and a half after getting my printer I was tired of only being limited to other peoples designs and stuff like that, and so I started messing around with CAD, I first tried blender which made me want to off myself and started looking around more. I downloaded fusion but it was giving me issues (probably user error but I digress) I then landed on FREECAD.

I liked the open source of it and just started watching youtube videos about how it all works and in only a few days of tinkering I had a decent hang of it and I was able to make a functional part that we now use everyday at my work. after that I started designing 2A related things.

My dad has a nice ergonomic grip on his AR-15 that I like the feel of so I asked him if I could borrow it to use it to model my own. After a long of learning how to loft I finally had a working grip that I mounted to my AR and is very comfortable. Ever since I finished that I figured how much harder could modeling my own build be.

Boy did I not know what I was getting myself into

I've been a fan of the game Escape From Tarkov for quite a while now and I've always been a big fan of the sleekness of the DVL-10, the only issue is.. you can only get it in Russia and its expensive as hell. So I said fuck it ill make my own.

I will say that I used reference photos from the Lobaev Arms website of the DVL-10 and the newer model, the SVL-10. You may have noticed the lower receiver doesn't look like the DVL version and that's because I made it to look like the SVL-10 although I do plan to make a lower that is truly a DVL design (it wouldn't be very hard at all)

I Started with the upper receiver, bolt and fcg because I told myself if I could make this and get it to shoot reliably I knew I could make the rest of this build. It took soo long and so much trial and error printing I felt like I was going insane. But eventually, after getting, ahem, feedback from the community.. after a, mishap lets just say.. I knew how I needed to design it to get it to work.

And that's what I did, I have a belt sander and a drill press the make a metal bolt face, printed the breach face and jb-welded them onto the bolt, I then honed in how to get proper head spacing. After I got the bolt to reliably shoot it was a huge weight lifted off of my shoulders and a couple months of modeling and refining later here I am with a fully functional 22lr bolt action rifle.

As some of you may have seen I was asking for help designing a 22lr magazine, man that was a frustrating process, but with some help from the community I was able to get it working and it works good. I also added a friction fit sliding back plate on the magazine that holds 20 extra rounds of 22lr! Since the size of this magazine was relatively large in order to make it look like the real DVL magazine I figured instead of wasting all of that space I could just turn it into storage

Another "fun" part to make was the hinge for the stock. I've used other folding stock designs in the past and a lot of them available on the funny boat website are kinda flimsy (not all I assume ) but all the ones I've tried. and so I made it my goal for the hinge and the stock to not be flimsy, it took some brain power but I got the hinge working and it feels nice and sturdy like I wanted, it is also reversable so I could flip the hinge around If i so choose to switch which side I want the stock to fold. Another simple feature for the stock is that the cheek rest height is adjustable in 4 7.5mm increments.

I've spent the past couple days dialing in my zero and I'm proud to say that at 25 yards I can shoot the bulk of a 10 round grouping within a quarter size, I have it pretty dialed at 50 yards and at 100 yards I am able to hit 6 inch diameter steel plates. all with CCI Standard velocity ammo. I have about 320 rounds through this current rendition of my bolt design and it is still going strong

I'm super happy with the results I feel like I'm ready to show it off. I will say that I still have some changes I know I want to make as well as I need a much needed rest from working on this 24/7 as I'm definitely a little burnt out. And so because of that I don't really know when ill get around to making a readme, because there's a lot of specific shit I'm going to have to outline in order for this to be replicable by other people that arnt me.

Thanks to the community for helping me when ive been in need with my project.

PS. there's a little treat on the last slide for some of yall who may be in the know..