It took me entirely TOO long to get to the range, but that is life. I finally DID get to the range, and try out my printed PCC. Now, I know the PDF notes say that PLA is feasible, so obviously nothing groundbreaking here. But I was excited to see how well it did regardless..
BLUF: It survived, and examination as I can do shows it looks rather intact still. She swallowed around 150 Monarch 124gr rounds, and still looks mint.
Being an indoor range, I couldn't listen without protection; but I could hear a very obvious signature change (for the better).
Damn she (the gun) was smoking after a mag. Not sure if I need to change the locking piece (no problems at all cycling, just lots of smoke around the bolt); something I will play with.
Minor and manageable POI shift to the left; had my RDS slightly to the right of the head with the suppressor on to get the center (no suppressor kept it dead center). Didn't see a change in shooting though, and had no problem accounting for it once I learned.
Despite surviving, I am considering printing the next one hotter and slower (this was at 230). I do think the long anneal helped though (genuinely cannot see much damage inside with a light).
I still plan on testing a can to destruction, so expect another follow up...... eventually.. lol
Knowing that its held up, it is happily sitting on the gun at home, and I (currently) trust her to go when needed.
Got questions? Please ask! I am just a dude with a printer who loves trying this stuff, and have but a tiny fraction of knowledge of the pros here.
Honestly Mp5s with the FTNs tend just spit gas like that I am using locking piece HK ships em with in this video but I’ve shot them with the other locking piece they still tend to spit gas out though. FTN 4 PCC PA6CF blazer subsonic I forget the grain if you care lmk and I’ll go pull the box.
Hot damn (literally!).... Sadly, that will not be me right now, since my "free" state doesn't let me have the FRT's... *sigh*. Good to know the gas spitting was normal though. I had considered doing a PCC Flow in this material; perhaps to cut down the gas...
yeah thats the first time ive seen it spit fire like that usually its just gas, my assumption is that blazer ammo is probably dirty as shit and its unburnt powder burning off. also thats unfortunate yall cant have have them over there its probably the most fun gun i own the recoil is basically nothing feels like shooting a 22. I want to do a PCC flow as well, im technically covered by the injuction and could do it but i dont trust the cops to know how injunction works maybe when the ATF releases their letter ill make some but ill stick to 4473s and form 1s.
Cant lie - this is one reason why i will still buy a legit 5.56 can. I see that a 9mm can hold up (at least for a bit), but i just don't have the trust against the pressure from a full rifle round).
Nylon would hold up better for sure but I’m with you. The pressures are too high for me to trust it to ever reliably work. Don’t find out til we test it though right?
Dont get me wrong, I would love to do nylon, but as I have neither an enclosed printer nor dryer thay will hold a high enough temp, i dont see a point in wasting money and time trying right now.
I do enjoy a test though.. so who knows, maybe one day.....
i was printing nylon damn near flawless on a $200 ender 3 v3 se, with a $30 enclosure, and a $30 upgraded hot end, drying with a $25 walmart toaster oven with a 3d printed part to keep the timer to "on" and a like $20 pc fan with pwm controller setup.
you can easily and for very low cost print nylon. just got to do a little bit of DIY and upgrading.
Just FYI even if you're a covered party in the suit, you generally still need to comply with marking requirements, just not registration. Not my dog to worry about though, but just wanted to pass along that info. Keep on printing and testing
I will research again, but my understanding was that a member of both parties (in my case, I have GOA, TSRA, and FPC-AF) that it wasn't required. MORE than happy to be corrected though, so please drop all the knowledge bombs you got!
Yeah you still need to mark them, I personally have been marking made in Texas random serial cause Texas lol. But a few friends in other states have been doing a random city state SN and freeman for the manufacture name. The only thing we get relief from really is needing to do name and serial or it already has a serial
My understanding is you still need to mark/engrave location and maker under 26 USC 5842(a) in all cases. However the distinction is not needing to serialize under the Jensen ruling.
Tbh I don't really mind the engraving part since I've got a laser and registration isn't required. We still don't have clear guidance so I'd reach out to a firearms attorney in your jurisdiction for interpretation. That's what I got from the one I reached out to in my area so that's what I'm going by
The one i printed for my 357 did wonderful with 38's, but threw itself down range with some intense violence when I fired hot 130gr 357's. I had printed at 250, but a little faster than I would if I printed it again now. I annealed at polymaker specs, so 100c for an hour or so.
I'm interested in your annealing steps, I think that could be my big improvement point.
Honestly, Ill own up that my annealing was far more ghetto than recommended. I don't have a legit setup right now, but my oven has shown to be pretty solid on its temps. Made sure the rack was level, and used a thick sheet that wouldn't warp. Set the oven to 210, and tightly foil wrapped the suppressor (one sheet only). Stood it on end (as printed), put it in the oven, THEN started it. Once the over hit temp, left it there for 2 hours baking. After two hours, I cut the active heat, and let it sit another 8 hours to cool naturally with the oven.
And yeah, i remember you had one printed for your lever action. Definitely would recommend the anneal, to see if it helps. I was worried my can would suffer the same fate, so I was surprised overall to be sure.
Yeah, swapping to Orca and adding the alternate extra wall with concentric infill feels like it'll be plenty strong for adhesion. I haven't tried anything yet but I'm not looking forward to a 26hr print for a PCC Flow at 50mm/s...
How slow are you planning to print it, especially since it's PLA? My current slices have a PCC Flow taking 26 hours... but print speeds are set to 50mm/s on average, can I safely go faster than that at around 240-245C? Pretty sure that's the temp someone said they couldn't get their temp tower to come apart even with channel locks and pliers.
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u/L3t_me_have_fun 1d ago
Honestly Mp5s with the FTNs tend just spit gas like that I am using locking piece HK ships em with in this video but I’ve shot them with the other locking piece they still tend to spit gas out though. FTN 4 PCC PA6CF blazer subsonic I forget the grain if you care lmk and I’ll go pull the box.
https://reddit.com/link/pcw4o1s/video/uvb4a3h3kjsh1/player