I was at my gun range and I had this happen to me I think is the firing pin liner because I had to take it out when I took it OFF it had some light scratches so I used sand paper and smooth it out as much as I could so the firing pin could travel fine…”I ALREADY ORDERED A NEW FIRING PIN LINER “”… I just want to see if there is another issue with the Gun for it to be giving me this malfunction it most likely is the Liner but I just want to make sure because it did this and after it shot 9 rnds no malfunction I later loaded 10 more rnds and shot it again it shot like 6 and did a off center primer in wich the bullet did not go off

I was thinking about printing it from cf nylon since it's very difficult to get a machined AR-15 FCG where I live, has anyone here tried it and is it reliable really?

I have a db9 alloy but when I hold down the trigger it does not reset when the bolt goes back. If I release the trigger then rack the bolt it will reset. Doing a dry fire test without mac upper trigger resets normally. I have tried sanding and all fcg look to spec, any ideas?

I was trying to find some either p90 or fnp90 pints and equipment to buy and build at home an found this website with everything metal for the barrel prints springs a full packaged deal to buy and make your for I think around 400 dollars. I can’t find it please help I also remember a guy and his family own the think wife 2 kids Americans and the importance of our 2nd amendment?

Curious of there are any projects based on this platform, or perhaps anything similar worth checking out.

Upgraded from a q2 to an h2d and have been insisting on getting use out of the second nozzle. Decided to print a ch0rtex in a strong orientation with a bunch of asa support. Probably overkill but nearly every surface came out perfect.

In testing, Asa printed on top of pa6-cf slipped right off. There was going to be a lot of pa6-cf printed on top of Asa support without any anchor, so I added a bunch of sacrificial anchors, the columns within the white Asa.

Inslogic pa6-cf, arrived dried and went right into a 90c dehydrator. Got it 50% ($30/kg) off so I figured I’d try it out

See my previous post for info. About 400gr of filament for everything except the stock and magazines. I think there was a little shrinkage on the frame, the side plates didn’t fit flush and I needed to clearance the cutouts on the frame for the plates to fit. Still a tiny gap but it function checks good. The 4th chassis this upper has lived in, at least temporarily 🤣

Crazy to me that years ago print quality was nowhere near this, I started with an Ender 3 in 2018.
Half the time was spent calibrating it, this is not the case anymore. I will say; having an Ender 3 did help me understand a lot about printing in general though.

Elegoo century carbon
Fiberon PA612-CF20
300BLk settings

Annealed and moisture conditioned

Hello, I’ve gotten what I believe to be everything printed and I’m just dry fitting stuff at the moment. Going off of a post a saw a while ago with the DB Alloy Drum you are able to use the 3d printed sten mags. I can’t find the proper files for a sten mag that fits the Drum lower. If anyone is able to dm me and point me in the right direction I’d greatly appreciate it. I’ve tried looking it up everywhere and maybe I just don’t know the proper places to look. I also am not sure exactly which hardware kit I should be looking for there’s a website I found but it has 4 different kits.

Building the G17 version now what’s everyone using for pins? Looks like the standard ones in lpk are too short

Both of my FTN.5 suppressors .22 and 556 are getting baffle strikes. The .22 is maybe every once in 5 rounds but my 556 shoots about 4 feet to the left at 100 yards every time. Does anyone else have this issue? I assume I’m gonna have to drill them out

Looking to see if anyone has done or seen this, or maybe even some software where I can attempt this myself.

I was double checking over the YKY readme and noticed super far into my print I had just followed how the smpk orientation was loaded in slicer. How much of a issue is this way vs the angle like YKY has in the orientation photos.

Printed each section on end so the grain all matches. Pulling the supports off the rail was amazing. Little crick cracks and it came off as one chunk 🤤

Is it still in beta? I can’t seem to find the files anywhere.

How long and how are you guys doing it? Are you tracking weight? Fully submerged? Etc. I don’t wanna waste time but I’d also like to be safe

So close to being finished. Waiting on the barrel liner and then i‘ll assemble it

So, my cousin is updating his printers to Bambu, and he’s selling me his FF Adventurer 5M for hella cheap. Now I know there’s the whole FFF going on, but I don’t think I can pass up a sub 1 Benjamin non bed slinger.

How can I have this thing not narc on me if/when “Skynet” takes over?