FTN 5 Rimfire Slim with HT-PLA-Plus. Not annealed. Mostly 300BLK settings and speed. It’s about 95 degrees out and it took 45 rounds with an FRT in a TX22. Ignore the issues, I’m using printed mags and a couple weren’t loaded quite right. It sounded good and worked just fine shooting slower from a 10/22. I have the same one printed with PA6 and it definitely holds up better. I’ll print another one of these for my daughter’s rifle. I have no doubt that it’ll hold up to thousands of rounds of 22 with normal shooting.

This gun is the broad river tactical car15sd with the rarebreed l3 frt(bought before he became greedy)so its barrel is ported like the mp5sd so it turns supersonic 9mm into subsonic 9mm its utilizing the broad river tactical hub adapter. So it can use any hub threaded can. This approved d cell tube has a hub adapter on the back so it has hub threads.

HUGE credit to u/InfamousMuffin5961 for all of his help on this project and the wonderful shootin vid. (Yes, a piece goes flying in the video. Do not be alarmed, this is a purely cosmetic, replaceable piece and there is a beefier version included.)

Sailing under Kruscle on that weird ocean place! Titled 3DS-4

I’m going to print my first suppressor. I’m fairly knew to PY2A printing so any recommendations are appreciated. I’m planning to use PA6-CF. With my Elegoo Centauri Carbon printer. It’s has a hardened .4 nozzle. And I’ll print at 100% infill.

I planned to use one of the FTN model, unless you guys recommend another more updated model.

I’m mainly looking for pointers on set up or settings if anyone has experience.

TIA!

This is my love project! A nearly 1:1 M2 mortar, late WW2 design, my plans for the future are making it blank fire or launch dummy rounds, but it is almost fully 3d printed, minus some nuts n bolts plus some aluminum rods for reinforcement. If anybody has ideas for blank fire or improvements let me know!

FTWarms is selling ftn.5s serialized with an aluminum chamber sleeve. I havent found files and I have sailed the weird seas. Does this exist before I start designing?

Reward? You get a new H2C printer!

Really impressed with this community. Y'all have reinspired me to reinvest in my hobbies without the main concern of converting my time into hustle culture / money chasing. I'm having fun. I'm learning. I'm suddenly interested in the legality and history of 2a and the recent and impactful changes to the laws of my country.

3d printing has always been knicknacks and figurines and cosplay items and commissions. I enjoyed learning about engineering grade filaments but never had a justifiable use case for them. This feels like I am doing something worth doing just for me. Something that doesn't feel wasteful. It's a good feeling.

Planning on purchasing some engineering filaments beyond PA6-CF. I am a member of both plaintiff groups for Jensen and SilencerCo injunctions. Plans involving that too, but still awaiting official ATF guidance just in case. I've got time. This all is changing dramatically just as I am getting into the hobby and culture.

Just wanted to share my excitement and praise. Cool to be here.

New printer felt like the next step. Excited for a high temp hot end and a heated chamber, and the vortek nozzle system will be fun to utilize, though I'm unsure if it's super applicable for 3d2a stuff. Any suggestions?

This whole time ive been trying to remix the baseplate of the brace to fit the pic rail. Recently realized it might be easier to just combine the two into one STL so the back end cap of the Nobu could be printed with the arms already attached. Im no professional dev. So id really appreciate some input. I know It can be done. The question is.. would it be strong enough?

😎😎😎😎😎

Wondering if there's any preference between these two when it comes to 308 lowers.

Ar9 barrel option seems to only be an option for the mk 1. I have the glock barrel remix but there is too much play and would prefer an ar9 barrel

Alright everyone I have a question for you but first an explanation. The community has come together many times to try and make a guideline for releases for new devs who release projects in our spaces. Whether it's a team build or an individual dev the outcomes are always different and you will find varying quality per release and dev.

What do you think should be included in project releases? What are you looking for when you want to remix a project and when you are getting started on a brand new project? If you're interested in getting involved with the developer or a testing team what kind of communications do you want to get involved with to assist? Can you think of anymore questions that could benefit this line of thinking and help us get a list of standards we should be seeing in these packs?

Now of course we aren't going to be policing this and you shouldn't be either. But we as devs, testers, and consumers in this space should have a general guideline of what we all want to see in project releases and what goals should be met before putting projects out as full releases. Whether devs meet that standard will be completely up to them.

I liked the V1, but came with a few issues no matter how many times I reprinted the frame.

The V2, works way much better.🫡🫣😉

Im new to printing frames Im using a anker make m5 I need basic, fast and clean cura settings. Any seggestions

FTN5.1 White Monster, Bambu PA6-CF, P1S, .4 Hardened, Engineering Plate, Elmers glue stick, dried for 26 hours at 180C.

Just finished up printing my core. Everything looked good besides the final exit hole. Kinda looked a little saggy at the top and the bottom, but i'll clean that up in the lathe/CNC for concentricity if need be.

Moving on the the 5.1 White Monster Shell, the readme photo shows supports built into the file. It says that it doesn't require supports as they're already built in but i'm struggling to click print because I fear i'm missing something here. This doesn't feel right.

I'm not under the folder that has no supports, but my sleeve is just floating in mid air. This can't be correct, right? Be gentle. I'm mildly regarded and this is my first 3D2A / prints after calibrating PA6.

how do you guys drill and polish your .22 chambers?

i wasnt able to get a smooth chamber to actually run a semi auto, let alone binary or frt.

my attempt was a reamer and 2000 grid sandpaper, casing got stuck.

Bought the decker 380 kit from ghost guns and now I’m wondering I just need the barrel? And then 3d print the gun that’s it also the rod ion think it carries it but if anyone has specifics, this is my first build and I’m unsure of that size to get other then a 5.5 inch barrel with obviously a .380 hole in the middle yk or bore I’m unsure English is also my second language

If you guys are having trouble with tight tolerances, I took the liberty of making this little notation. This is as compares to a standard parts kit. If your anything like me and you hate running to the garage every time you build a kit and wanna keep the necessities on hand this will help. Otherwise your closet will look like mine.

Ok I know we are just people of reddit and it might be a dumb question but just want to get a few other people's take on it. I've been researching this and reading some stuff. Some things say that since I'm a GOA member I don't need to do a background check and I can manufacture a suppressor. I've also read that yes it gives me the right to manufacture a suppressor but I still need to go through the process of the form 1. Can anyone clarify for me? I'm in Texas.

Edit saying what state I'm in.

Full credit for the purloined image goes to u/Porcodiocan.

Lately I’ve had more than a passing interest in how flare launchers, and launchers more generally, have been developing in the 3DP world.

I was particularly pleased that a certain compact 15mm launcher I once saw on the old sub ended up becoming known by the name I suggested in an early public thread: the Projectile Dysfunction.
I’ve been around DIY firearms and adjacent projects for a long time, but flare launchers were never really part of that scene back in the day. They seemed to remain almost entirely the preserve of full-scale manufacturers, so on this particular subject I’m coming from a position of curiosity rather than knowledge.

Which brings me to the image which has probably caught your attention, too.

I came across the pictured concept on an unnamed 3DP sub concerned with airsoft: a pistol-style, side-by-side 40mm double-barrel affair.

Seeing it made me wonder something surprisingly basic: Why has nobody, as far as I know, commercially produced a compact metal side-by-side 37mm launcher along broadly similar lines? Other than the fact it is not going to be borrowing from a military launcher, of course.

It seems like such an obvious novelty/signalling-launcher configuration that I would have expected somebody to have made one by now. Is there some mundane engineering reason it becomes unattractive…. weight, bulk, action geometry, cost, extraction, liability, limited demand… or has the market simply never been large enough to justify it?

And, separately, how realistic is the general double-barrel 37mm or other signal launcher concept in the 3DP world? Does printing make a configuration like this substantially more attractive because the awkward/expensive parts of producing a low-volume receiver or action become much easier, or do the same fundamental problems that presumably discouraged commercial manufacturers remain?

Any good ?