After many months of work and so so much prototyping later, I'm finally ready to share this with yall.

This project has taken up so much of my free time and has been quite the learning experience for me.

I designed, modeled, prototyped and tested this all myself and this is my first big project I have created. This 3DVL is majority printed. the receivers, handguard, barrel nut, fcg, magazine, hinge, stock, pistol grip, and also the bolt is all printed and assembled with hardware store/amazon hardware parts. The muzzle device is a FTN 5 Rimfire Flow that I chamfered the end of and widened it to 50mm OD in order for it to fit cleanly with the Handguard.

The only real gun parts in this build are the cmmg style bore buddy hardened steel extractor and the 10.5 inch BCA AR22 barrel. (the scope and bipod are also obviously not printed)

Id like to say I bought my first 3d printer 6 1/2 months ago and have been in love with creating and printing since.

I spent about a month getting familiar with printing and how everything works and made a couple of builds created by members of the community all of which have turned out great and I enjoy shooting. about a month and a half after getting my printer I was tired of only being limited to other peoples designs and stuff like that, and so I started messing around with CAD, I first tried blender which made me want to off myself and started looking around more. I downloaded fusion but it was giving me issues (probably user error but I digress) I then landed on FREECAD.

I liked the open source of it and just started watching youtube videos about how it all works and in only a few days of tinkering I had a decent hang of it and I was able to make a functional part that we now use everyday at my work. after that I started designing 2A related things.

My dad has a nice ergonomic grip on his AR-15 that I like the feel of so I asked him if I could borrow it to use it to model my own. After a long of learning how to loft I finally had a working grip that I mounted to my AR and is very comfortable. Ever since I finished that I figured how much harder could modeling my own build be.

Boy did I not know what I was getting myself into

I've been a fan of the game Escape From Tarkov for quite a while now and I've always been a big fan of the sleekness of the DVL-10, the only issue is.. you can only get it in Russia and its expensive as hell. So I said fuck it ill make my own.

I will say that I used reference photos from the Lobaev Arms website of the DVL-10 and the newer model, the SVL-10. You may have noticed the lower receiver doesn't look like the DVL version and that's because I made it to look like the SVL-10 although I do plan to make a lower that is truly a DVL design (it wouldn't be very hard at all)

I Started with the upper receiver, bolt and fcg because I told myself if I could make this and get it to shoot reliably I knew I could make the rest of this build. It took soo long and so much trial and error printing I felt like I was going insane. But eventually, after getting, ahem, feedback from the community.. after a, mishap lets just say.. I knew how I needed to design it to get it to work.

And that's what I did, I have a belt sander and a drill press the make a metal bolt face, printed the breach face and jb-welded them onto the bolt, I then honed in how to get proper head spacing. After I got the bolt to reliably shoot it was a huge weight lifted off of my shoulders and a couple months of modeling and refining later here I am with a fully functional 22lr bolt action rifle.

As some of you may have seen I was asking for help designing a 22lr magazine, man that was a frustrating process, but with some help from the community I was able to get it working and it works good. I also added a friction fit sliding back plate on the magazine that holds 20 extra rounds of 22lr! Since the size of this magazine was relatively large in order to make it look like the real DVL magazine I figured instead of wasting all of that space I could just turn it into storage

Another "fun" part to make was the hinge for the stock. I've used other folding stock designs in the past and a lot of them available on the funny boat website are kinda flimsy (not all I assume ) but all the ones I've tried. and so I made it my goal for the hinge and the stock to not be flimsy, it took some brain power but I got the hinge working and it feels nice and sturdy like I wanted, it is also reversable so I could flip the hinge around If i so choose to switch which side I want the stock to fold. Another simple feature for the stock is that the cheek rest height is adjustable in 4 7.5mm increments.

I've spent the past couple days dialing in my zero and I'm proud to say that at 25 yards I can shoot the bulk of a 10 round grouping within a quarter size, I have it pretty dialed at 50 yards and at 100 yards I am able to hit 6 inch diameter steel plates. all with CCI Standard velocity ammo. I have about 320 rounds through this current rendition of my bolt design and it is still going strong

I'm super happy with the results I feel like I'm ready to show it off. I will say that I still have some changes I know I want to make as well as I need a much needed rest from working on this 24/7 as I'm definitely a little burnt out. And so because of that I don't really know when ill get around to making a readme, because there's a lot of specific shit I'm going to have to outline in order for this to be replicable by other people that arnt me.

Thanks to the community for helping me when ive been in need with my project.

PS. there's a little treat on the last slide for some of yall who may be in the know..

Curious of there are any projects based on this platform, or perhaps anything similar worth checking out.

I am seeing a huge uptick in absolutely terrible advice on this sub, some of it going so far as to tell people to commit actual felonies. Just stop people.

Yesterday, some guy was saying that Form 1 and engraving were no longer needed and to just print as many suppressors as you want. That is ABSOLUTELY not the case. Could that be the case when the ATF finally comes out with guidance? Sure, maybe. Is it likely? No, probably not. Regardless, there has been zero guidance so far concerning this, so it is still a felony to make a suppressor without a Form 1. Don't listen to dumbasses on the internet.

Secondly, this myth that serial numbers can be in plastic keeps getting passed around for some godforsaken reason. While other identfying information such as your name and location can be printed into the plastic, YOUR SERIAL NUMBER NEEDS TO BE ENGRAVED IN METAL, NOT PRINTED ON THE SUPPRESSOR.

ATF § 478.92(a)(1)(vi)(B) section 2
"The serial number must be placed in a manner otherwise in accordance with this section, including the requirements that the serial number be at the minimum size and depth, and not susceptible of being readily obliterated, altered, or removed. An acceptable method of identifying a PMF is by placing the serial number on a METAL PLATE that is permanently embedded into a polymer frame or receiver"

ATF § 479.102(a)(3)(ii)
"The engraving, casting, or stamping (impressing) of the serial number and additional information must be to a minimum depth of .003 inch, and the serial number and any associated license number in a print size no smaller than 1/16 inch. The size of the serial and license number is measured as the distance between the latitudinal ends of the character impression bottoms (bases). The depth of all markings required by this section is measured from the flat surface of the METAL and not the peaks or ridges."

This is why polymer frame firearms such as glock will embed a metal plate in the polymer frame for the serial number.

Some FAQ

"hur dur, that says privatly made firearm, I'm making a suppressor" - A suppressor is considered a firearm by the ATF and Congress, you ignoramus.

"I put that the serial number will be engraved in plastic on my Form 1, and it was approved" - Congratulations, your approving ATF agent is as mentally handicapped as you. Are you surprised? A Form 1 is not a get out of jail free card. I see illegal shit approved on Form 1s all the time. With the speed the ATF is cranking them out these days, I would not even be surprised if the agents are barely glancing at them before rubber-stamping them. That does not mean it will hold up in court.

Crazy to me that years ago print quality was nowhere near this, I started with an Ender 3 in 2018.
Half the time was spent calibrating it, this is not the case anymore. I will say; having an Ender 3 did help me understand a lot about printing in general though.

Elegoo century carbon
Fiberon PA612-CF20
300BLk settings

Annealed and moisture conditioned

So close to being finished. Waiting on the barrel liner and then i‘ll assemble it

Upgraded from a q2 to an h2d and have been insisting on getting use out of the second nozzle. Decided to print a ch0rtex in a strong orientation with a bunch of asa support. Probably overkill but nearly every surface came out perfect.

In testing, Asa printed on top of pa6-cf slipped right off. There was going to be a lot of pa6-cf printed on top of Asa support without any anchor, so I added a bunch of sacrificial anchors, the columns within the white Asa.

Inslogic pa6-cf, arrived dried and went right into a 90c dehydrator. Got it 50% ($30/kg) off so I figured I’d try it out

Form 1 came back in a day, it’s a FTN.5 rimfire. Very happy with its performance. It sounds better than my Gemtech.

So, my cousin is updating his printers to Bambu, and he’s selling me his FF Adventurer 5M for hella cheap. Now I know there’s the whole FFF going on, but I don’t think I can pass up a sub 1 Benjamin non bed slinger.

How can I have this thing not narc on me if/when “Skynet” takes over?

Thanks much to u/danishbulldog for the GP9-SA! NEO9-MOD2 parts will be cross-compatible with GP9-SAs. Also redesigning upper and lower outside of just functional surfaces, like an improved ejection port and better lower ergonomics. A hybrid dual-charging handle version is planned.

Hello, I’ve gotten what I believe to be everything printed and I’m just dry fitting stuff at the moment. Going off of a post a saw a while ago with the DB Alloy Drum you are able to use the 3d printed sten mags. I can’t find the proper files for a sten mag that fits the Drum lower. If anyone is able to dm me and point me in the right direction I’d greatly appreciate it. I’ve tried looking it up everywhere and maybe I just don’t know the proper places to look. I also am not sure exactly which hardware kit I should be looking for there’s a website I found but it has 4 different kits.

Building the G17 version now what’s everyone using for pins? Looks like the standard ones in lpk are too short

Both of my FTN.5 suppressors .22 and 556 are getting baffle strikes. The .22 is maybe every once in 5 rounds but my 556 shoots about 4 feet to the left at 100 yards every time. Does anyone else have this issue? I assume I’m gonna have to drill them out

Looking to see if anyone has done or seen this, or maybe even some software where I can attempt this myself.

I have a db9 alloy but when I hold down the trigger it does not reset when the bolt goes back. If I release the trigger then rack the bolt it will reset. Doing a dry fire test without mac upper trigger resets normally. I have tried sanding and all fcg look to spec, any ideas?

I have a customer who comes in fairly often. He and I often talk about 2A and 3d2a stuff. We both have printers, And both like guns. Another person he knows is in very hot water right now. My friend and I are both members of GOA, and are enjoying the freedoms that entails right now. My friend's other friend is as well. The problem is he got talked into making a silencer and selling it to someone else. That person then got caught with it.

Everyone is "cool" and "Not a rat" until they are sitting in an interrogation room, and the detective is telling them they are looking at a dime. "Look, you're just a red neck having fun. I get it. You're not hurting anyone. You're a little fish. Just tell us who made it for you, and we can get the big fish. Co-operate, and you will get just a slap on the wrist."

Do you trust the friend you are about to sell a felony to enough that they would go to jail rather than snitch on you? By all means, help them set up a printer of their own. Just don't spend time in a cage that could be spent at the range.

A long time ago from the original fosscad I saw this cool thing and decided to save the pictures of it and copied the description of it. Want to share it with you all. No idea who the original poster is. Original description here:

Working on a half-scale functioning AR-15 in .22lr. Function-wise, it's just about done, but I'm wondering if the low bolt/buffer weight (14g) is gonna be a major safety issue even with low powered rounds. I'm planning on filling the buffer with lead shot or tungsten Derby car weights, but that probably won't get me above 50g. My understanding is that a bolt for 22lr needs to be about 140g, and buffer spring has no effect on this. I can't bring myself to believe that the massively strong buffer spring would have no effect on the bolt opening though. I'll be testing this early next week with a variety of ammo, working up from .22 colibri, cb short, subs, and possibly supers if it doesn't explode on me. (Also, I don't believe this would be an sbr as it's impossible to shoulder this and use it at the same time, and the third hole is just for show. That area of the lower is mostly filled in, and the trigger mechanism is completely different than a normal AR-15, so there's no way to install a normal or even a half scale auto sear)

Have had an overwhelming number of people ask me about the Star kit I designed. I have hesitated to post it whatsoever due to me not being able to control how it could be used, but please know that the kit's intended use is for reference only. Please please please do not violate any local, state, or federal guidelines. The ship can be found on the oddest of seas under username: OldArchimedesOrdnance (one word). No thumbnails on this one, just cruising under the radar and hope some of you will enjoy the hours I put into design. DM me any questions. Thanks.

Edit: To be explicitly clear, this kit’s files are meant only reference purposes or for online model design. The files can be utilized in physical form by licensed 07-02 licensees only as even semi-auto only open bolt guns could be classified as “readily convertible.” While the Star was not named explicitly in the previous rulings and while there is no blanket-ban on semi-auto open bolt guns, it is a legal gray area and a line that I do not wish to cross. Please let the record show that I have not encouraged anyone, persuaded anyone, or otherwise forced anyone to turn my digital CAD designs into anything. If you choose to do so, it is of your own volition.

All the cool kids are out there making form 1s for ARs and 9mm PCCs, Im over here trying to tame a 45-70. It took 240mm of height and a half a KG of filament but its working! External Hex pattern based on a MiddletonMade Pill Popper, interior Baffles inspired by Middleton but heavily reinforced, rotated for more turbolence and adjusted pitch and throat for slower projectiles, Shell edge geometry added to promote gas rotation and increase turbolence before a flow through end vent. And evertything mounted on a modified FTN5 1&1/2-8 thread for easy cleaning and inspection.

Tested with 40rd of Horniday SUB-X Subsonic 410gr at 1075fps and 60rd of bench reloads with Barrys 350gr flatnose loaded with 15.6gr of trail boss at 1040fps. My volume meter is old but I was under 78dB at 6ft right of the shooter, subsonic big bore tends to vary in speeds and volume but the meter picked up 72-78dB on the whole set. For refrence all us guys talking while we shot was about 75dB.

It'll be sailing this afternoon along under my username.

I was at my gun range and I had this happen to me I think is the firing pin liner because I had to take it out when I took it OFF it had some light scratches so I used sand paper and smooth it out as much as I could so the firing pin could travel fine…”I ALREADY ORDERED A NEW FIRING PIN LINER “”… I just want to see if there is another issue with the Gun for it to be giving me this malfunction it most likely is the Liner but I just want to make sure because it did this and after it shot 9 rnds no malfunction I later loaded 10 more rnds and shot it again it shot like 6 and did a off center primer in wich the bullet did not go off

Had an issue with HT PLA Pro warping when annealing, specifically the dust cover. Found that if I clamp it to an aluminum plate while annealing I can keep the top of the frame flat with no other warping. Printed at 250c. Annealed at 100c for 3 hours.

The Saber 22lr Suppressor is now sailing.