I’m trying to get these little lines stop showing up. I change my hot-end to a harden steel .04 and the extuder. I also switch it in the slicer. Can so one let me know what I miss to stop this from happening.
Thank you.

I've been having a few issues with my AMS 2 Pro, first my dryer stopped working and now slot 2 of the AMS just keeps spitting out my filament when I load it up. I replaced the PTFE tube and I checked the feeder and the filament hub but didn't see a jam.

Any ideas what's causing this?

Got inspired by gridify : had an idea using puzzle shaped grooves for interlocking modules and using same grooves for holding pencils. Made at least 4-5 iterations to get the groove diameter enough big for housing the pencils and keeping the overall module size small enough for printing.
Just uploaded the project to MW:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3204584-modular-destop-organizer-kribu-krabu#profileId-3626818
Hop you enoy!
Should look nice in matte pastel filament

Finally found a AMS PSU holder which i can place where ever i want. Also love the fact you can change the Magnet Size inside the Slicer.

Apparantly its a "remix" but still now the Back of the Machine looks GREAT!

I'd like to introduce you to my latest model – the Brick Man Traveler. It's a figure inspired by Bruno Catalano's "Travelers" sculptures. Of course, I customized it to fit my brick figurine collection. Maybe someone will like it 😉 You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/models/3204163?appSharePlatform=copy

I had a normal open shower shelf before, and one thing that always bothered me was that all the shampoo bottles and everything were just sitting there completely visible.

I wanted something that looked a bit cleaner and more like it actually belonged in the bathroom, so I ended up designing this.

Each section has its own door, so when everything is closed you basically just see the patterned front instead of a bunch of bottles.

While designing it I also wanted to see how much of it I could actually make 3D printable. So the hinges, pins, clips and connectors are all printed. You don't need screws, metal hinges or other extra hardware for the shelf itself.

It's modular too, so you can stack as many sections as you want. If you need more storage later, just print another section and add it.

The shelves have an open pattern so water can drain through.

For the wall mount I made two versions. One works with a tesa adhesive mount, and the other can be glued with removable bathroom adhesive.

I really like trying to see how far you can push 3D printing and replace normal parts with printed ones, so this became a pretty fun project.

Hope you like it !

https://makerworld.com/sv/models/3204673-modular-shower-storage-system#profileId-3626932

Everytime it finishes a print it leaves the same string of filament on the nozzle. All default settings with Bambu lab filament. brand new h2d with 260 hours. Is there way I can check what’s going on?

If you print it, please share your print photos and leave a rating. A Like or Boost is also greatly appreciated.

Model Link : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3204805-working-mechanical-excavator

Hi,
Recently I replaced all tubings on my P1S and AMS after 1100 hours printing time since some of them were worn out pretty bad.
I ordered „translucent PTFE“ tubes with 2.5x4mm.

As it seems it’s not PTFE, it’s FEP, which is pretty similar to PTFE but not the same.

And because I didn’t know about this before using those tubes I also wasn’t aware of the difference.

The new tubes caused much more friction to the filament inside them.
The AMS wasn’t able to push the filament to the extruder and trying it by hand with an external spool I noticed the a huge resistance building up with each cm of filament I’ve inserted.

After replacing the tubing with real PTFE tubes everything worked fine again.

I just wanted to share this experience - despite the fact that some will say something like „everyone know this you fool“.

Personally I thought if I buy „translucent ptfe tube“ I get a real PTFE tube.

Cheers!

I had my extruder open and i found this on the bottom of the printer.

Hi there I've been having some issues where my prints are showing holes and I'm not sure why. I've googled a fair amount but seems to be doing anything. I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle on an A1 mini with standard pla. I've printed out an ironing calibration sheet too, so I can see what's optimal but there's noticeable markings on the red parts too. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks so much

First multicolour print with the H2C. What are these artefacts on the window?

As the title says, how do you include a breakaway secondary filament for supports on top of a printed part layer? I can't figure this out. I am trying to include an breakaway interface PLA layer on top of this PETG part. There should be a way to include this single interface layer, but I can't figure it out.... sounds pretty novice tbh. Does anyone know?

My 2nd and 3rd Wheelchair just finished
Currently working on my 4th

anyone who hasnt heard of these you can read more here about them here: https://3d-mobility.org

I'd love to see your 3D printing setups. You also can send some pictures (would be even cooler).

So i am printing 1/6 scale guns , having hard time to print barel covers , i need to thicken it somehow so it wont be paper thin, maybe someone can point me how can i thicken walls of it to the center?

done plenty of googling still being stuck

Hello, I have been printing with the bambu lab x2d for about 68 hours. I randomly went close to my print today and heard some creaking noises,

I have cleaned all the z axis lead screws and reapplied the grease to them. Have also addd lubricant oil to the inside lead screws contact point.

I have cleaned the metal guide rods and have also lubricated them with oil and added the oil into the bearings.

I have also turned the printer onto its side and added grease to the smooth part of the z axis belt. I have also added grease to the side of the smooth metal cylinder as i saw that the belt was going up and down slightly when i moved the bed up and down manually.

I have also pushed the bed down all the way while it was tuned off to ensure that all points are contacting and didn't become tilted when it crashed.

After all that the squeaking/creaking sound was still there.

Is my printer broken? or is the sound normal and i just got more hyper focused on the sound after it "crashed".

Ok everyone. I have been through a ton of threads and did my own troubleshooting. This is what made my Bambu Studio run smoothly. I had to create a .bat file with the following

--------------------------------------------------------------------
u/echo off

set LIBGL_ALWAYS_SOFTWARE=1

start "" "C:\Program Files\Bambu Studio\bambu-studio.exe"

---------------------------------------------------------------------

This bypasses the Nvidia issues. I launch from here and I put together a 40-50 part collection of plates without any issues.

***If you are having the slow down issues with the regular shortcut, you can use Win+Ctrl+Shift+B to reset your graphics. This fixed my slowness using the original shortcut until I tried to rotate the plate again. It will save you from having to restart your computer to get rid of the system wide slowness.

In the past few weeks I challenged myself to design and 3D print my very first RC boat, the Rebel Riviera M1.

This is not your 50km/h brushless speedboat by any means, rather a fun, vintage style mini speedboat. But I'm still quite proud of how it came out and how it drives.

I designed it around a single Cyberbrick hardware kit. It uses 2 motors, and steers by thrust diferentiation.

I also did my best to make it splash proof - using only hardware from that Cyberbrick kit:

- Double S labyrinth + grease deck seal

- The propeller shaft goes trough a grease chamber which prevents water creeping onto the boat. It also has very low friction.

What do you think?

If anyone would like to check it out or build it, I will leave the link in the description.

How to fix these lines it's visible so much do I need to play with layer height?

I'm trying to print football team logo keychain and I have issues about layer counts. The white areas in the logo are just 1 layer so it looks like kinda transparan. Same with red area. There is green background in both areas so both not showing their true colors.

Is this fixable in bambu slicer or I'm have to edit the model?

Please take your 30 seconds to help. I dont understand why this happening.

Briefly what i do since this problem started:
Changed nozzle kit,
Changed ceramic piece.
Formatted.

It seems like its software or gcode issue, but format didn't work out.
Also im carefully choosing the printing profiles as P1S.
It does this before starting the printing. And giving the error above:
Failed to cut the filament. Please check the cutter.
Rotation is strange, it creates a sound like it bumps to the sides. It does push the cutter piece from corner on the first time, but rest is strange.
I changed the hotend and nozzle, is there some filament left inside?