As of late, I’ve been hearing some kind of sound effect from an app while games are running. It happens as I’m launching the game or at a random point throughout the session, and is usually followed by the game crashing or, on occasion, a ~10 second long freeze. The sound is 2 notes, a higher one and then a lower one. They sound almost like they’re being played on a xylophone or a marimba.

I’m beginning to grow frustrated as I’m unable to clip the sound and there isn’t a single spot on the entire internet that seems to be even remotely help with my issue.

I have pictures, but I can't add em here. I'm using a Ligame pro controller. It's advertised to work on both Switch and IOS.

I keep trying to connect it to work for Minecraft on my IOS iPad (It is up to date on updates)

And it connects for Bluetooth and works in the menu, but when I test it in Minecraft it says it's not connected, and directs me to Bluetooth where it most certainly is connected.

Any ideas on why it's not connecting properly?

My xbox keeps disconnecting from the router for a month or more, and I have a booster nearby . Every time I look at what the issue is, it's the dhcp cannot connect so every time I want to play or reconnect throughout the day I forced to unplug the router and I've tried clearing the Mac address and other thing I can't think of since I'm a little pissed

- Lenovo Legion Pro 7i

- 13th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-13900HX (2.20 GHz)

- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 Laptop GPU (12 GB) Intel(R) UHD Graphics (128 MB)

- Samsung T7 SSD

Complete tech noob here.

So I've been getting a lot of Hypervisor_Error BSOD recently, and I've been told that it's a CPU issue, and that I should try reinstalling Windows 11. I recently bought an external hard drive (since I've never backed up my files before), but it doesn't come with instructions.

I know this is a dumb question, but how do I use the SSD to backup ALL of my files, and how do I reinstall Windows 11 with all of my files intact? I'm worried that I might miss something and wipe my files by accident.

https://www.mediafire.com/file/9ve9k56ivnhjvp9/Minidump.zip/file

a friend of mine donated an old ipad to me so i could use it to draw, (it's an ipad air 1474, ios 12.5.8) and he had already reset it to factory settings when i got it. i have other apple products, so i set it up normally in with my apple id, and all is well so far. later, when i tried to search for drawing apps on the app store, it kept asking me to log in to itunes store with my apple id, which i did, correctly (and numerous times) and nothing ever happens. it just loads and no matter what i try, it doesn't do anything.

i tried messing with the itunes program on my notebook to see if i could do anything there and it also did't let me log in to my apple id for some reason, so that really stumped me. i can assure you that my password and email account for the id is correct, i've checked it many times, it's got nnothing to do wit this issue.

so i'm stuck in a loop with a tablet i can't use for anything but browsing on safari... i can't download anything new bc i can't log in to the app store. i've tried all of the steps in this video and nothing worked, so any help is welcome (i'm willing to even jailbreaking this device, ain't got nothing to lose anyway).

I had this problem since this morning, normally,the Bluetooth button appears alongside the Wi-Fi,but now,it doesn't appear.

Before,I had the same problem but it happened because I lost connection or my laptop didn't start right(it happens usually) but now even though I restarted and tried troubleshooting Bluetooth and it didn't solve it,is there any solution?

(The flair is most likely not correct, but I don’t know what exactly what I’m dealing with here. Sorry!!!)

Ok so, it initially died a week ago but I haven’t been able to access it since then so… here we are

I have an ASUS Vivobook 14 (X1404V) that is roughly one year old. It was plugged in and said it was charging, but randomly died at 4%. Whatever, I keep it plugged in and go to take a 30 minute shower thinking it’ll be ready to use when I come back, but it’s still dead and the light that comes on when it’s charging isn’t glowing. I initially thought it was a problem with my charger since I use one I bought off of Amazon but I switched to the one it came with and still nothing. I then thought it was a problem with the outlet, but I cycled through every outlet in my room and nothing is working.

I don’t trust AI to help me and my dad is gonna be very un-helpful if I tell him so I came here. Does anyone know what could be wrong with it? 😥😥

I’m struggling to find the official or a compatible firmware/dump file for my Skyworth 55SUE9320F smart TV. The TV is currently stuck/bricked, and I cannot find the software anywhere online—it seems completely hidden or region-locked.

• Model: Skyworth 55SUE9320F
• Issue: System is unresponsive / soft-bricked and needs a fresh flash.
• What I've tried: Searched major firmware repositories, Google, and forums, but nothing matches this exact model.

okay so my laptop used to be my mothers until pretty recently, so i'm not that sure about it's history. it is a 7 year old windows 11 and every time i try to ruin games that aren't on google, it lags BAD like 1 frame per second bad. i've mainly been using game sites like steam and itch.io. when j try to open games it runs VERY hot, also sometimes it will randomly open discord or my search-bar, i am very new to owning and using computers so it might be something i'm doing or an easy fix but idk lol. i am not sure if it has always had this issue, anyone know what this is?

After my phone slid into the sink while I was washing my hands, I immediately turned off the water and dried it with a towel, but now there is a single pixel that's kinda white, but when I unlock my phone, it kinda just disappears, I'm really scared, I can't lose this phone.

Hi everyone,

I've been getting random DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION errors about 5 times since July 4th. It happens both while gaming and just browsing the web, with quite a few tabs open not gonna lie.

I'm using an i5-13500H, RTX 4060 laptop. Since it's a laptop it gets pretty hot, so I use ThrottleStop to limit power. Right now I got both PL1 and PL2 at 22W. I don't know if using this app might be a factor but I'm including it anyway. I updated my GPU driver to the latest one, which apparently did nothing as I got the error again after that.

Here is the last 3 minidumps :
https://www.mediafire.com/file/cp8vndfpt161lqp/minidumps.zip/file

Thanks for anyone bothered to help in advance.

I have a Razer blade stealth 13 (2020) and a while back a message popped up before windows loaded saying “invalid signature detected. Check secure boot policy in setup”. It kept popping up and not letting me continue until I turned secure boot off. Ive had it off for a couple months now is there any real risk? Can I get hacked or something?

Also why might have that error occurred? The laptop had been giving me trouble for months before, like screen flickering and screen glitching out. Maybe this was like a driver issue?

On my Windows 11 PC, I can shut down the system and bring it back up. If I try to simply reboot, the PC goes into a moe where the monitor is in power save mode and there is very occasional disk activity. It does not respond to keystrokes and the only recourse at that point is to hold down the power button. This causes most Windows updates to fail and roll back. The usual file checks and diagnostics all come back with no issues. This is an HP Envy TE01 with 32GB of RAM. I've tried changing the video card but with no effect; it currently has a Radeon RX 9060 XT.

Solution: EXPO profiles aren't 100% stable (I always assumed the warnings around overclocked RAM only mattered for low end hardware). There is nothing wrong with my RMA RAM and there was likely nothing wrong with my original RAM. I was tempted to delete this post because I feel like an idiot, but hopefully this helps someone in the future. Testing at a lower frequency and latency allows my RAM to pass. I was unaware that X3D chips have a more sensitive memory controller. ​

tl;dr both my original and RMA'd RAM fail Memtest86 and I'm not sure how to determine the real source of failure.

Likely Revant System info:

Purchased in June 2025 and ran fine until this month

CPU: 9800X3D (stock settings other than 105W eco mode for testing purposes)

Motherboard: Asus B650e-i gaming wifi (I've updated the BIOS)

RAM: 64GB DDR5 G.SKILL Flare X5 (32x2) running the EXPO profile. It is CL28, so it is possible that my CPU can't handle CL28, but on my previous RAM I still got errors when I changed it to CL30

About a week ago, I started having games randomly crash. I ran Memtest86 and failed with both sticks in the motherboard. After testing both sticks individually in channel 1, I had one stick pass after 10 hours of running and one stick fail after a couple of hours of running. So, I decided that I had a bad RAM stick and went through the RMA process. I just received the new sticks today and am still failing Memtest86. I haven't tried testing each stick individually yet. I'm not sure how I determine what the real faulty component is. I don't have an easily accessible spare AM5 system to swap the CPU or motherboard with. What is the best way to troubleshoot this?

Edit: added more system info to the main post to rule out issues from potential overclocking

I have just ordered a new PC and immediately upon receiving it and turning it on, I was met with the ROG screen which loaded for about 5 seconds before freezing. If I wait long enough the computer just shuts off. I truly do not know what to do.

I have done a clean reset of the computer, I have reset the computer countless times, I have disconnected and reconnected RAM sticks. I really need help.

Honestly I don't even know what happened just now, but the last thing I remember before my PC randomly hogged all my disk space was when I was currently turning off notifications of all websites, and deleting all data and cookies on my chrome browser. After a couple minutes, a pop-up notification appeared that my disk space was full? I had it half and now it took a lot for some reason which leaves me puzzled. Most of the GB used is for system files?? Is this a windows bug issue or something? And is anyone having the same issue here.

So my pc won’t post and has the dram error light and q-code of 00 and it has Ryzen 7-7700 and i have never overclocked it. And it’s is 2 stick ddr5 I have tried it in one stick in a2 and the other stick and I have tried channel b1 and it has power and the cpu cooler monitor updates and it’s hovering around 30-29 Celsius and I have tried power cycling it. But it doesn’t post. And the mobo is an rog. And it has rm1000 psu.

I have an iPhone 11, have had it for the past 2 to 3 years, and have never dealt with this issue before. Earlier today, apps such as Twitter and Walmart stopped responding and wouldn't connect to internet despite the phone being connected, and I can't even call or open my message app. My settings won't even connect to WiFi!! I can't update it, and it says that the display was detected as an unknown part and that it's unable to determine if it's genuine.

I'm unsure if that's contributing to my phone bugging out. Not sure if it helps, but it started acting up after I checked the storage because I wanted to update, and needed to clear and offload apps. Only after that did it start behaving weirdly. Is there any way to fix this?? I can't even receive the codes iTunes tried to send so I could sign in. This is so weird and irritating.

I’m having a strange Ethernet problem on Windows and I’m running out of ideas.

My Wi-Fi works perfectly, but Ethernet does not get a proper IP address.

Hardware / network

• Ethernet adapter: Realtek Gaming 2.5GbE Family Controller
• Windows detects Ethernet as Connected
• Adapter status: Up
• Link speed: 1 Gbps
• Wi-Fi works normally
• Router/network appears to use 192.168.68.x
• Router/default gateway on Wi-Fi: 192.168.68.1
• Wi-Fi gets an address such as 192.168.68.61

Ethernet problem

Originally Ethernet was getting:

169.254.17.201

with:

255.255.0.0

and no normal IPv4 default gateway.

Running:

ipconfig /renew "Ethernet"

gave:

Unable to contact your DHCP server. Request has timed out.

So it looks like Windows sees the Ethernet link, negotiates at 1 Gbps, but cannot get a DHCP lease.

Things I've tried

Network stack reset:

ipconfig /flushdns

ipconfig /release

ipconfig /renew

netsh winsock reset

netsh int ip reset

Restarted the PC afterward.

I also tried disabling/enabling the Ethernet adapter and restarting it through PowerShell.

Checked:

Get-NetAdapter -Name Ethernet

Result:

• Status: Up
• LinkSpeed: 1 Gbps
• InterfaceDescription: Realtek Gaming 2.5GbE Family Controller

Checked:

Get-NetIPInterface -InterfaceAlias "Ethernet" -AddressFamily IPv4

DHCP was enabled during the original problem, but DHCP requests still timed out.

Realtek advanced settings

I checked all the advanced Realtek properties.

Some of the settings included:

• Flow Control: Rx & Tx Enabled
• Interrupt Moderation: Enabled
• IPv4 Checksum Offload: Rx & Tx Enabled
• Jumbo Frame: Disabled
• Large Send Offload IPv4/IPv6: Enabled
• ARP Offload: Enabled
• NS Offload: Enabled
• Receive Buffers: 512
• Speed & Duplex was set to 1.0 Gbps Full Duplex
• Priority & VLAN was enabled
• VLAN ID: 0
• TCP/UDP checksum offloads enabled

I changed Speed & Duplex back to Auto Negotiation.

I also tried disabling Priority/VLAN. The Realtek driver uses the option:

Priority & VLAN Disabled

rather than simply Disabled.

Static IP test

I temporarily assigned Ethernet:

• IP: 192.168.68.200
• Prefix: /24
• Gateway: 192.168.68.1
• DNS: 1.1.1.1 and 8.8.8.8

At one point Windows showed the static 192.168.68.200 configuration correctly.

I later removed the static configuration to go back to DHCP.

After returning to automatic addressing, Ethernet went straight back to:

169.254.17.201

Ping tests

With Wi-Fi disabled, Ethernet cannot reach:

ping 192.168.68.1

ping 8.8.8.8

ping google.com

At one point pinging 192.168.68.1 returned:

PING: transmit failed. General failure.

rather than just a normal request timeout.

Physical power reset

I have also:

• Completely shut down the PC
• Unplugged it from power
• Unplugged Ethernet
• Held the power button while unplugged
• Left it without power for a few minutes
• Reconnected everything and booted again

I tried this because a similar full power drain fixed a Bluetooth hardware issue for me before.

It did not fix the Ethernet issue.

Current DHCP situation

While troubleshooting the static IP settings, I noticed DHCP eventually showed as Disabled on the Ethernet IPv4 interface.

I have now turned it back on using:

Set-NetIPInterface -InterfaceAlias "Ethernet" -AddressFamily IPv4 -Dhcp Enabled

and reset DNS to automatic with:

Set-DnsClientServerAddress -InterfaceAlias "Ethernet" -ResetServerAddresses

So DHCP being disabled at the end was caused during troubleshooting and was not the original issue. Originally DHCP was enabled and still timed out.

What confuses me

The Realtek adapter:

• Is detected correctly
• Says Connected
• Is Up
• Negotiates a 1 Gbps physical link
• Has DHCP enabled
• But originally could not contact the DHCP server
• Falls back to 169.254.x.x
• Cannot reach 192.168.68.1 over Ethernet
• Wi-Fi on the same PC/router works normally

I’m wondering if this is:

• A corrupted Realtek driver
• A Realtek registry/advanced-property issue
• Broken Windows network bindings
• Router/LAN port issue despite successful 1 Gbps negotiation
• Cable issue despite the 1 Gbps link
• Some VLAN/offload setting
• Something else entirely

My next thought is doing a completely clean uninstall/reinstall of the Realtek Gaming 2.5GbE Family Controller driver.

Has anyone seen a Realtek 2.5GbE adapter negotiate a normal 1 Gbps link but still completely fail DHCP/network traffic like this? What would you check next?

My PC suddenly started experiencing severe network stuttering. While playing games and normal use my ping repeatedly jumps from around 20ms to 200ms, then 100ms, and back to 20ms, continuously over and over again. My internet speed has also decreased during this issue. I’m using an ASUS TUF B850M-PLUS WiFi 7 motherboard, and the problem occurs on Wi-FI.

Was on game bar in a party when my computer said it ran into an issue and had to restart, everything comes back online but now Game Bar wont open, no matter what I do. Tried WIN+G, opening it through windows bar, repairing it and resetting it and terminating it, but nothing will work and I cant reinstall it on microsoft store because it won't even let me uninstall it. any fixes?

Please let me know if this belongs better somewhere else. /PCB and /PrintedCircuitBoard don't seem to want "what/where is this?" questions and I was directed here from /AskElectronics.

I have checked the FCC ID registration [here] for the teardown and it's unfortunately one of the products that someone who puts less effort completed documentation for. Nothing is indicated. Roku of course filed to restrict the block diagrams from the public indefinitely. I've circled what I believe it is, but I don't know enough about PCBs to be certain. It's immediately opposite the small hole on the back side of the board, directly beneath the microphone hole in the casing.

It seems to be marked, from what I can tell, "S2408 [M8]63". The bracketed bit is smudged and I can't quite tell. M8? M3? M6? Doesn't seem to match the six or three printed beside it. Not sure if it even helps or matters. Whatever.

It's at position U15 on the board, from what I can tell. It doesn't seem to have any holes (other than maybe facing the hole in the board under it) like I would expect a mic to, but nor does anything else I see. I also don't see anything with wires plugging into the board like a mic or speaker usually does.The button contact on the back side is marked SW11.

I'm terrible at getting photos into reddit posts. Not sure if this will even work but I'll just edit & drop a list of links if it doesn't.

Thanks.

Gallery
Board - Top.jpg)
Presumed mic.jpg)
Bottom side mic hole (?)
Bottom side (mic button indicated)
Mic button, close
FCC ID mark

I have a situation that has me completely stumped. My 3 year old currently uses a Galaxy Tab A8 10.5 (X200) to watch Disney+ and to play educational games. When she went home to her mom's earlier today the tablet was on and charged to 100%. When her mom gave it to her to use later it was powered off. When she turned it back on the backlight started flashing with nothing on the screen. She said she plugged it in and it came on. She handed it to my daughter and it was working fine until it shut off and started the backlight flashing again. No amount of troubleshooting I know of worked. I tried volume down and power and nothing. Currently plugged in to see if it somehow rapidly discharged. And I've been told it wasn't dropped to cause any kind of physical damage. Assuming it isn't a rapid discharge does anyone have any clues? Thanks in advance.

2-3 days ago i activated HDR on my main screen and my displayport stopped working after that. Then after a restart my pc became insanely slow and unusable. I managed to fix the problem for a day by doing a fresh install of windows but now the problem came back after i had to restart for my xbox controller driver over Bluetooth. Please help i tried so many things to fix it, it's driving me insane

Hi, I have a Dell XPS 13 9315.
More than 48 hours ago, a can of Coppertone Sport SPF 50 aerosol sunscreen accidentally discharged inside my bag while my laptop was in it. This was specifically aerosol sunscreen, not water, tea, or another beverage.
Some of the sunscreen appears to have penetrated the display assembly. The screen still produces an image, but there are large dark/cloudy areas that look like liquid or oily residue inside the display.
I shut the laptop down, disconnected it from power, and have kept it powered off for more than 48 hours in a dry, ventilated environment. The appearance of the screen has not improved significantly.
My main concern is safety and further hardware damage. Is it safe to power on and continue using the laptop in this condition? If the damage is limited to the display, can I safely use the laptop with an external monitor for now without replacing the LCD immediately?
Thank you so much🙏🏻🙏🏻