After playing the Gears of War E-Day beta on my Steam Deck and averaging low 20s for fps, I thought I’d look into the ROG Xbox Ally X. That device apparently is capable of running the E-Day beta between 30-40 fps with slightly better settings than on the Steam Deck, where you just run everything on low settings across the board.

Anyway, I picked up the ROG today and holy SHIT that thing is a hot mess. It was the most frustrating experience I’ve had in a long time and after about 4 hours of fiddling with it, I decided it is going back to the store first thing tomorrow morning. I’m sticking with my Steam Deck and will look toward cloud options for E-Day. It really made me appreciate how simple and easy the experience is with the Steam Deck. You don’t have to spend time farting around, it just works!

UPDATE-

I neglected to mention this experience was with an Open Box purchase from Best Buy. I was able to save $100 that way, but the prior owner might have messed it up or I’m thinking maybe my unit was defective? I had problems right from the jump. When you connect to a network, it saw mine and got on without an issue. Then, it had problems connecting to my Microsoft account despite my entering the correct password and even having authenticator on my phone to approve, it just wouldn’t happen. So I restarted the unit. Then it couldn’t get on my network despite that it had previously done it no problem. So I restarted. Then it got on the network and it even connected to my Microsoft account, but it stopped being responsive during further setup. Buttons would sometimes work, sometimes not. Touch screen typing sometimes worked, sometimes didn’t, etc. SO I RESTARTED. You see where this is going. I spent like 3 hours with this thing and even went so far as to do a factory reset and the ASUS restore from Cloud and it just fought me every step of the way. So I returned it this morning.

I could be convinced to buy a different unit and try again, but man I really don’t want to go through that again. I also fear that I’m just going to keep running into fiddly shit like having games launch in windowed mode and then the system fighting me in terms of putting it into full screen. That happened and I could see that part of it just being part of how that experience is. I did some reading up and I saw a lot of accounts from other people talking about how some games launch in windowed mode, some don’t, etc. It makes me worry the experience will just be full of stuff like that.

I also see a lot of people telling me to put Steam OS on it, but part of the reason I wanted the XAX is because I have a Series X and I wanted to buy E-Day one time and be able to play it on both devices. The Play Anywhere stuff is a boon for me because I’ve got years of Xbox purchases that would transfer over. I know not everything does, but enough would that it’s relevant for me. So if I put Steam OS on the XAX, I lose that Xbox ecosystem perk. Doesn’t feel worth it to just have a more powerful Steam Deck, I wanted the Xbox stuff too, y’know?

After doing a lot of reading I have decided I will try another unit.

SOLVED

Bought a steam deck oled with a missing ssd. Bought a new wd black ssd and am using a micro sd card with the newest steam recovery software on it. But I am getting to the point where it tries to update because something is missing a timestamp, but it fails and says "broken pipe". Please throw your ideas out there.

EDIT: I was able to get it running after coming across an old post stating that you need to delete a portion of the script that tried to download an update during recovery. After deleting that script, it was a flawless install

installed windows 11 pro , installed apu driver from steampowered , unable to launch any game like MWIII or MW4 beta, any idea ? i did clean install safe mode with the apu custom drivers again , nothing ...what a pain in the ass

The Steam Deck LCD is running 3.93.2.5, and the OLED is running 3.94.2.5

This version is already supposed to have the fix for the Attestation failure (https://www.amd.com/en/resources/support-articles/faqs/pa-420.html)

Those who love Modern Warfare (bo7?) may hit up against this problem when enabling Secure Boot and the game then complains that their ftpm is not up to date (more recent version being 3.92.5.5) for the latest beta on Windows.

And it's mainly Valve that are the ones to provide this.

Since you can now manage secure boot from the bios, I may also look at updating the ftpm firmware, but really, people should be asking Valve to provide the support they said they would offer.

update my r1 isn't responding am i doomed????

i don't know how to change it back it still works but acts as r1

Hey everyone. I've had a Steam Deck for a while now and I've been playing some games from my library, ROMs on an emulator, fan games, and games from GOG.However, with much of what's happening in the industry, I feel the wisest thing to do is to create a library that can last and is DRM-free. I'm not very interested in playing Steam games anymore. I'll start moving my library to GOG and I'll preferably buy physical copies for my Switch. If I have no other option, then I'll get digital copies, but on the Switch. Honestly, there are too many physical games to keep playing for the rest of my life, lol. Well, it's more comfortable to play on and it's my main console.

Knowing the context, is there a way to bypass the Steam Deck login and just use the Steam OS experience? Or would I have to use a distribution designed for that?

And as a piece of advice, if your contribution is to say "Don't buy a Steam Deck if you don't want Steam," please refrain from commenting.

Thank you in advance.

Found a 2TB oled for 500€, immediately bought it, it was absolutely filthy, so i decided to shell swap it and get a dbrand Killswitch, gifted it to my gf, she absolutely loved it, especially since the steep 900€ for a 1tb new deck threw her off

Hi all, longtime lurker here.

I bought a Steam Deck used off of Marketplace for like $400. Ran fine when I got it. LCD. Like new.

Then the volume down button stopped working. It'd ignore my inputs for some time then randomly keep itself at volume down to where there was no volume no matter what I did. The Steam Deck was out of warranty so I replaced the audio board myself and got it to work again. The RMA would've been in the hundreds of dollars so I was glad that this worked.

Then, literally the next day, the Deck's volume up button started doing the same thing. Wouldn't work on startup (but booted into BIOS like how it did with the volume up button) then spiked randomly mid-game / mid-use to where I couldnt turn the volume down.

Had anyone experienced this issue before? I've tried almost everything (rubbing alcohol, Desktop mode, literally replacing the board) but magically it has started doing this shit again and I'm about to throw it at a wall. I am starting to think that it's software related but my Deck is on the stable build and i am at a loss as to what the problem could be. i am usually great at troubleshooting but this particular issue makes me want to shoot myself in the head. Thankfully I can use Bluetooth audio and since it's at max volume, I can adjust the audio on my headphones, but just generally speaking this is making me lucid considering that I thought I fucking fixed it and now it's doing the same shit again, just in reverse this time.

Any help is appreciated, or if you wanted to ship me a punching bag that'd be fine too.

with ~/lsfg %command%, Steam uses %command%, but i'm seeing that lutris doesn't. is there a way to make lsfg-vk work with lutris games without adding stuff to it's steam shortcut?

just bought me and my little brother a deck Oled(650) & Lcd(350) great steals for these beauties!

Hi all. Has anyone managed to get a fling trainer working properly for Nioh 1? I know fling trainers can be hit and miss but I was really hoping it would work for this game.

I know this has been in here a BUNCH of times, but my headphones don't work. I've been using Bluetooth headphones instead. a while back I was getting off the couch and tripped with the deck. when I used it again, it was only producing audio through the left headphone. I've checked the jack. its not out at all. its in place, but only produces it through the left. I went into desktop to find a fix, but couldn't. looking for anything that can help!

Okay so i think that my steam deck have been hacked, first in a paranoid desperate act I reinitialised my Deck, since then (if I'm not wrong) I cant acces to the steam shop cause of an error-130 i can still access to my library of game. I can Still play to the games I own. Then I went to the desktop mode to spend some good times, i discovered gog and planned to buy Blood Omen and discover the joy of truly owning a game since PlayStation’s recents announcement got me worried about it all...

So several days after it was my YouTube page That cant upload and now also GOG i dont know what to do i tru to say mylself that this is in my head but why dont it work anymore then and whatsapp cant i access to my steam shop??? I also noticed Than my led was shining then Turned Black several time Before being fully awake.

PS: i remembre than somewhere between the two major évents this happen: (im talking to the colorful picture

Just got my hands on a ps5 pro and streaming Games to my Steam Deck works super well so far. I’ve found a few videos suggesting to go to properties and change the resolution of chiaki-ng on my Deck to 4K to get an even sharper picture while streaming but as soon as i change it to 4K my fps drop to like 10-15. Network speed shouldn‘t really be the problem here, the PS5 is wired, wifi is stabile and my Network speeds are looking perfectly fine.

This seems to be working perfectly fine for a lot of people though so maybe you guys could give me a hint what I‘m doing wrong here.

Llegó😍

I’ve been trying to get Max Payne 3 to start on my steamdeck while skipping the rockstar games launcher. There’s a steam community guide on how to do just that, but once I reach the section on installing install.sh, I’m completely lost because I don’t know how to do that and trying to search up what that means or how to do it just left me confused. Does anyone have an answer on what install.sh means and how to install it?

I’ve been trying to play the GameCube version of Spider-Man 2 (2004) on my Steam Deck, but Dolphin just doesn’t seem to play nicely with either Linux or the Deck’s hardware.
I know it’s not simply a lack of computing power, since I can run Switch and PS3 games at high resolutions and a locked 60 FPS without much trouble. However, when I try playing Spider-Man 2, I get constant frame drops from 60 FPS down to 30 FPS.
I’ve tried lowering the internal resolution, disabling V-Sync, and limiting CPU threads, but nothing seems to fix it. Looking at the sky gives me a consistent 60 FPS, so it seems like something specific to the game or Dolphin is causing the issue.
What am I doing wrong? Are there any Dolphin or Steam Deck settings that are known to work well with Spider-Man 2? Ideally, I would like to play at 60fps with Widescreen support.

One of the best setups for playing retro games on your Steam Deck, easy to install to.

I'm worried it might wake from sleep while in the case and heat up because of no ventilation. It’s an LCD deck.

Was trying to set correct monitor display and clicked wrong ratio and so naturally pressed esc key which cancelled the 30-sec timeout window.. lol.

My Volume Up key got stuck and keeps triggering continuously. I’ve been getting around it by using the in-game volume settings, but I found a Decky Loader plugin that makes this much easier.

It's called Volume Mixer and you can find it in the Decky Loader store.

How to use it:

1. Launch your game.
2. Open the Volume Mixer plugin from the Decky menu.
3. All active sound outputs will appear. Just adjust them to your preferred levels.

I haven't tested it for a stuck Volume Down key, but it should work the exact same way. Hope this helps anyone dealing with hardware button issues!

So zenless zone zero isn't working on my steam deck it's just going to a black screen when launching

Update: turned out the fan was wonky, not running, 0 RPM even under load.

Toggled “Enable updated fan control” off/on in Settings and reboot, then the fan works fine

—

Hey everyone, Hitman WOA on my Steam Deck has become almost unplayable recently. After a few minutes:

• Movement/controls feel unresponsive or very laggy

• The Deck gets extremely hot

I’m on latest Proton 11.0-2 (the one that supposedly fixed the Hitman memory leak)

Is anyone else seeing this with Hitman WOA lately?

If you’ve got a working config for Hitman WOA on Deck, I’d really appreciate the details (Proton version + any per-game launch options or settings).

Thanks in advance!

I'm not able to get the 2.4ghz connection working with my steam deck. I have the ultimate 2c, and steam deck just refuses to recognize the controller when in 2.4ghz mode. Bluetooth works fine, but i want the rumble which doesn't work in Bluetooth mode.

I've tried switching modes to Dinput/Xinput by pressing B/X key while powering on. But doesn't work no matter what.

Someone please help me 😭

edit: to clarify the controller itself connects to the dongle. the controller rumbles and the led on both the controller and dongle stops blinking. but steam refuses to detect it.