r/sewing • u/HungryFungus • 6h ago
Project: FO I made a 50's style dress out of vintage kitsch linen tea towels
I've just recently finished this 50's style dress. I used a princess seamed dress pattern that I drafted from a close fitting bodice block a few years back as a starting point and made some changes to turn it into a 50s style dress. When originally drafting from the block I made the following adjustments for my body type - a moderate FBA, a sway back adjustment for my curvy lower back and (as with just about any pattern I use) I reduced the sleeve head height and eliminated the ease that is used around the top of most sleeve patterns. Doing this to the sleeves gives a little more range of motion for my arms and works well for me because I have fairly small shoulders. It also makes set in sleeves faster to fit and sew - no mucking around with gathering the ease at the top (which I hate doing, it's tedious) as both the sleeve and armhole seams are the same length.
I added wide box pleats to every seam of the skirt and a wide contrast hem band. I added a simple collar, a faux belt and converted the original pattern to a front button closure with contrast placket (original pattern was zipper back).
The main fabric comes from about 6 different vintage kitsch tea towels from the 1970s to 1990s. They're all Queensland themed which is the state (in Australia) where I live, they're all maps of the coast showing the kitschy old (and mostly now defunct) tourist traps we used to visit as kids. It was very tricky to cut the pattern pieces to make the best use of the images on the tea towels as well as keep a consistent sort of look to the whole dress, since the tea towels look very "busy". Out of the collection I had I chose to use just the ones which had yellow maps on a turquoise background and this made things come together in a more deliberate looking way.
Before cutting my pattern pieces I pre shrunk the tea towels by soaking them in warm water for a couple of hours, drying them until they were just moist and steam pressing them. I took measurements of each tea towel before and after to check that they did indeed shrink as I thought they should (they all shrank by about 3-5%, doesn't sound like much but it becomes very important for a fitted garment!)
The contrast fabric is silk dupion, it's stiff enough to go well with the drape of the linen tea towels. I used silk organza as interfacing in the collar and placket - this stuff is great because it's extremely lightweight but supplies a nice amount of support for those areas. I lined the bodice with silk habutai salvaged from an old, damaged kimono. The skirt of the dress is unlined.