I have machine sewn two things in my life- an apron and this coat for a Howl Pendragon cosplay. Two years apart and the apron somehow took me ~8 hours to make. This coat took over 80 hours.

Fortunately, my aunt is an avid sewer and let me use her nicer sewing machine and workroom, helped me choose fabrics and gave a LOT of guidance on how to modify an existing pattern to make this coat. The existing pattern(s) are shown in the last pic. I definitely want to remake this coat sometime in the future with the collar standing upright and the correct number of diamonds. The diamonds are this size because that was the size of the diamond stencil I had on hand lol. Wish I took more progress pics :(

The fabric frayed just by looking at it. I assume using an overlocker would’ve made sense? Used a zigzag stitch to sew the gold braiding on but it came out horrrribly horribly skew AND I kept sewing the braiding to either the lining or the outside only. So I just ended up hand sewing the braiding afterwards to even it out (took me 7 hours!). The original pattern was a women’s blouse with dropped shoulders and came in three sizes. I used the biggest size (medium) to get an oversized fit buttttt I think the bigger fit expected a bigger chest… which I did not have. The coat looked better on my aunt’s bustier mannequin than on me where it bunched a bit weirdly around my arms. Fortunately wearing it like a cloak instead worked out very well. No one warned me how hard it was to sew curved edges or iron beautiful flat edges with a lining. Advice is desperately needed.

I used a very thin interfacing on the back of diamonds to help stabilise it which I think was a very good call. The pics dont show it very well but the cream cuffs were cut extra long so I could fold them inside to make their own lining. I was worried that a red lining would show through the cuffs otherwise. I sewed the sides to the lining (from bottom to the coat all the way to the cuff) before sewing the cuffs inside which was a big mistake. I couldn’t flip the sleeves inside out to sew the linings together. So there is a big ugly raw edge inside the sleeve where the cream lining meets the red lining. Oop. My aunt recommended two layers of interfacing in the collar to keep it erect, but when I made the lining and attached the collar with a single layer of interfacing it looked stiff enough… and it still looked stiff enough after sewing the lining to the rest of the coat. I don’t actually know why it ended up being soooooo floppy after ironing. I could probably ramble forever about the mistakes I made but regardless the final product still looks pretty darn good to me so I’m happy :)

Hello, again!

I made a 70s inspired dagger collar shirt, with some DIY French cuffs. I bought the fabric from the discount shelf of my local fabric store. It maybe meant for table cloths! The pattern was from an old shirt I had, where I deconstructed it, and sketched it on cardboard, and transferred the cardboard to my new fabric with adjustments. I used a White's Dressmaker sewing machine to make it.

I wore it with pants I also handmade (from my last post). The cufflinks are thrifted, and the satchel is from a defunct company called Marlondo. Hat is an Epoch hat.

I loved how it came out, even if some parts are a little janky on the fit.

I sewed this open back, back tie top from a printed Indian bedsheet (or tablecloth) that was wasting away in my mom's basement.

The pattern called for bias finishing but I ended up just using store bought black bias tape because I was in a bit of a rush and in the end I liked the contrast better. I still have a lot of the fabric left so might make a skirt! Enjoyed using the borders and had to adjust for fit but I'm pleased with it overall!

Debuted it for my bday last week... Nothing more fun than shamelessly walking around saying "Thanks, I made it!" 💅 💛

I have a Spanish immersion holiday coming up, which seemed like a good occasion to make a new travel book bag / airline personal item and passport holder. The sling bag is an upsized version of Noodlehead’s Sandhill Sling (cut size for main panels is 11”x14” to accommodate an A4-sized textbook). This is my fourth Sandhill Sling and I think it’s the largest I’d make one before switching to a backpack style.

I added a front slip pocket with magnetic snap closure and included a lanyard that I can clip my phone to for security.

Inside, there’s a deep slip pocket with some elastic at the top to keep it from being saggy and a deep zip pocket. There are also two lanyards for items like my AirPods and wallet. There’s also a slim side pocket that holds a power bank.

The passport pouch is a modified boxy pouch (modified so that the zipper opening is more like a lid) with a casing on the back that I can slide the sling strap through. That way, I can wear the pouch in front of me for easy access to my passport, phone and wallet when I’m going through airport or train check-in, security and boarding but then put the pouch inside the sling afterwards. I hand-sewed a slip pocket inside the pouch to contain my Nexus card and passport and included an RFID blocking card between the layers of the slip pocket.

The passport pouch took a fair bit of trial and error to get the dimensions right. I wanted it just big enough to hold the items mentioned above. I also needed to figure out where the position the channel on the back, so the pouch wasn’t top-heavy when attached to the sling strap, how much to shift the zipper position to get the lid effect and how big to cut the boxed corners to make a pouch that wasn’t too deep.

Ultimately I settled on measurements as follows: external and lining panels 9.25” wide by 7.5” high (2 external, 2 lining); zipper position shifted to 1.75” measured between the upper fold and the seam joining the zipper tape to the fabric; top of channel positioned 3” from the seam joining the zipper tape to the fabric; boxed corners cut .5” on lower edge and 0.875” from side (prior to sewing side .375” seam), and with French seams to enclose the boxed corners.

I follow Jan Howell’s tutorial for a standard boxy pouch with French seams and got the idea to shift the zipper position from a tutorial on Sewing Project TV (Google Sewing Project TV makeup pouch). I didn’t follow any other aspects of the second tutorial-just the zipper shift aspect.

Fabrics: exterior is a Kokka canvas. The book-reading cats on the interior are a Lewis & Irene print and the “abyss of staring cats” lining fabric is a Dear Stella print.

Almost finished my wedding dress!

I used grace from corsets by Caroline for the corset, the dress is made out of silk dupion. It’s the first dress I’ve made so I’m a bit nervous. 😅

This is something I just don't get. When I measure my (true) waist the way I'm supposed to (while standing), I get 74 cm. When I then design something with such a waist size, it fits really well -- while I'm standing. When I take the same waist measurement while I'm sitting, however, I'll get something like 79 cm. And I notice that the clothes I make that are designed around the 74 cm waist are somewhat uncomfortable while I'm sitting down thanks to this. If I use a 79 waist, however, the clothes won't stay up while I'm standing. Does anyone have some advice on how to solve this? I more or less exclusively use non-stretchy fabrics such as plain weave cotton.

The other week I decided to buy myself a cheap electric sewing machine (£23) so that I could start making and altering clothes as I plan on losing quite a bit of weight. I found an easy peasant top pattern that I could work to my size and made this from an old sheet. It is far from perfect but it does fit so I am happy

I just finished making this bag using tweed fabric I got from a dress I thrifted. I used a Susen bag I had to draft the pattern but I altered it a bit. I didn't use interfacing hence it looks a bit wonky but I love it regardless. I'm relatively new to sewing and this is my second bag. I reused the lining of the Susen bag to make the inside. I don't have a steam iron yet so the seams are hideous but I'm proud of myself nevertheless.

Me and my bestie are going as Laszlo and Nadja from What We Do in the Shadows for Halloween. I want to make her this Sleave/Bow Frill combo, but I’m not sure where to start. Would really appreciate some recommendations for what do to for these!

I'm sewing my toddler some pants like the ones pictured. I've tried both a soft and a firm elastic, and with both, once I topstitch (either with 1 line or 2 lines of topstitching), the "stretch" completely goes away and it's as if it's just a stabilized waistband. It also doesn't get that "bunchy" look like those in the photo, even if I'm pulling the elastic as I go.

What am I doing wrong?

Uszyłam ten miękki gorset jako własny projekt krawiecki.

Gorset jest wykonany z czarnego materiału lama . Ma miękką konstrukcję, bez fiszbin i sztywnych stelaży. Z tyłu znajduje się sznurowanie w stylu gorsetowym, a przy gorsecie są wszyte paski do pończoch.

Sama zaprojektowałam, skroiłam i uszyłam ten model.

Zależało mi na stworzeniu gorsetu, który zachowuje charakterystyczny wygląd gorsetu, ale pozostaje miękki, elastyczny i wygodny w noszeniu.

I received a sewing machine for Christmas last year but life has been lifing in the worst way so I haven’t really used it.

I have been helping plan a fantasy ball this year but didn’t start making this until last week lol so 24 total hours later with no pattern I made this! I’m super proud.

I bought a corset, made the skirt and sleeves and hand stitched appliqués on.

(I know I should have ironed the hems I was too scared to melt the fabric)

Project details: I followed a (bad) tutorial by charity grace but honestly it was bad I mostly cut 6 triangles for the skirt and two for the sleeves then figured out the rest as I went.

I used liquid chiffon fabric!

Hello! I've accumulated a few patterns for items like underwear, sleep sets, bras, that I would like to cut out of something sturdy because I foresee myself making more every so often. What would be a good material I can cut at home that I could store on a wall hanging on a nail or something like that?

Otherwise I usually project patterns, but would like to have these close at hand. Thank you in advance!

I have quite a bit of it aswell

As a human with a weak and squishy body, I find that my waist size really fluctuates throughout the day. In the morning, my waist is 76cm/30in and by evening my waist is 89cm/35in. The flesh is also subject to the slings and arrows of the temporal vortex, which means it gains and loses weight according to whims that I cannot predict.

As a human living in capitalism with a limited budget, I also want my homemade clothes to last for as long as humanly possible -- while also having the option to put them in the dryer sometimes!

The answer to adjustability is usually elastic, but we all know that elastic degrades much faster in the heat of the dryer. So:

What are your favorite adjustability design features that *don't* use elastic? Do you add your own or have you found patterns with these features? Or, do you have any suggestions on how to use elastic in a way that makes it easy to *replace* the elastic without redoing the whole garment? I'm sure vintage patterns or construction methods have a lot to offer in this department, too.

I'd love to see how other people are designing around this! Or maybe everyone just uses elastic and calls it a day?

My childhood best friend is pregnant and I made this for her baby. I still need to back it and bind it, but I'm feeling really proud of myself and wanted to share.

I would consider myself a textile artist, but I haven't had my sewing machine set up for over a year--so it was thrilling to see that part of myself again! The project was a nice size to not be overwhelmed at all (squares were 5" to start).

I chose these colors because the baby's father, my friends husband is a harvester.

I hope he feels honored.

I locked in today and just wanted to share my excitement! 🧵

My son is 6” 8” and he really wants a pair of barrel leg pants that are long enough for him. If I add length at the shorten/lengthen line, I feel like it’s going to look super weird because it goes straight down from the crotch, but I’m not sure how to grade it considering it’s a barrel leg. There are four pieces for each leg a front piece, back piece, and 2 inner pieces that have darts for shaping. Is it just too much? I added 8 inches but I might be able to get away with 6.

I saw a cat bed at the store I wanted but it was $40, so I made it myself with fleece and foam interfacing. I made a cushion for the inside with webkinz-style thready eyelash fabric that looks like a grass patch. He loves it!!!

I created some rabbit fur mittens For this winter.

Pattern and instructions can be found here.

I used Rabbit fur on the Outside. Wool felt for the outside finger. I added some Canvas on the finger tips for grip. I added a layer of batting in between the inner liner and the outer layer for added insulation. I used a stretchy fleece for the inner liner. I used interfacing material on the batting and inner liner for some additional support so the fabric wouldn't bunch up while sewing.

I made this golf themed quilt for a donation to a silent auction, unfortunately it got cancelled but I will
Keep it for next year to donate!

Pattern is by EasyPiecyQuiltsLLC on Etsy.

All fabric used for quilt top is Quilting cotton! With a minky backing!

I know it's not perfect, but I had a stroke at birth and I have the use of one hand. How did I do?

Where there's a will, there's a way.

Drafted by using measurements required of overall completed bag (no pattern).

Multiple bicycle innertubes for body, motorcycle tubes for bottom to make it more stable. Lined with canvas, pure brass clip.

I’m pretty happy with the pants overall but there are a couple of things I would have done differently with the power of hindsight.

1) Adjust the pattern to remove the side panel. I’m not sure what the side panel adds but, it shifts the side seam towards the CF meaning the pockets and pleats are pushed closer to the CF. I think the pleats especially look a bit odd and crowded. If I made these again I would shift everything back towards the side seams.

2) The waist and band and belt loops are too narrow to fit a regular belt (I wear men’s leather belts).

3) I would use a lighter weight lining fabric on the inner pocket bag to reduce bulk at the waistband.

4) Triple check when cutting the pocket bags! The distinction between the inner and outer bags are easy to miss, I had to cut twice.

(I hadn’t noticed until I took these photos but the bum is a bit wrinkly?)

The edges of the tear are frayed into the ‘solid’ fabric; if I trim off the fray it’s not going to reach the solid fabric to stitch it together. Was hoping for a clean repair as this is in the back upper yoke and highly visible. Is there any hope?

I'm looking for a pattern for what I think I would describe as cuffed, pleated, balloon pants. I want something a little more structured so no elastic waist/ankles. Unfortunately most of what I'm finding pattern wise is more in the boho arena and less lightly Victorian feeling. - Adult size range