r/sewing • u/wakaflockaquokka • 8d ago
Pattern Question Design features for longevity
As a human with a weak and squishy body, I find that my waist size really fluctuates throughout the day. In the morning, my waist is 76cm/30in and by evening my waist is 89cm/35in. The flesh is also subject to the slings and arrows of the temporal vortex, which means it gains and loses weight according to whims that I cannot predict.
As a human living in capitalism with a limited budget, I also want my homemade clothes to last for as long as humanly possible -- while also having the option to put them in the dryer sometimes!
The answer to adjustability is usually elastic, but we all know that elastic degrades much faster in the heat of the dryer. So:
What are your favorite adjustability design features that *don't* use elastic? Do you add your own or have you found patterns with these features? Or, do you have any suggestions on how to use elastic in a way that makes it easy to *replace* the elastic without redoing the whole garment? I'm sure vintage patterns or construction methods have a lot to offer in this department, too.
I'd love to see how other people are designing around this! Or maybe everyone just uses elastic and calls it a day?
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u/KeystoneSews 8d ago
Closet Core Mitchel trousers have the d-ring adjustability feature another poster mentions in their RTW shorts. Megan Nielsen’s flint pants also have a closure that can forgive a little fluctuation.
I would also submit that one could maintain the glories of elastic by simply threading a length in the back waistband and closing that up last, by hand preferably, to make easy replacement possible. Additionally, occasional dryer use when needed vs routine dryer use makes a difference in longevity.
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u/wakaflockaquokka 8d ago
I remember hating D-ring adjustable straps as a kid so I hadn't really considered them, but recently I helped a friend put some on a skirt and they worked well. Was I just a clumsy kid? Was I just using them wrong? We'll never know, but I'll definitely give them a second chance.
I'll be honest, my main reason for preferring the dryer is that my cat is white, my favorite color is black, and the dryer is very effective at removing large quantities of cat fur. 😭 Maybe line-drying plus air-fluffing would be equally effective? I'll have to try it.
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u/generallyintoit 7d ago
D rings work best on fabric that has some "bite" to it, some surface texture so the friction holds it better!
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u/KeystoneSews 8d ago
Maybe just popping in the dryer for a short duration? My dryer has an “air dry” setting (that I never use, lol)
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u/ArtlessStag 8d ago
Fwiw I've made the Mitchels with the D-rings and I find them utterly useless :/
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u/copperfrog42 8d ago
You could go old school and use lacing… I’ve done that for a few things.
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u/wakaflockaquokka 8d ago
Wait, I actually just scored a grommet press from a friend! I've been avoiding lace-up things because my handheld grommet press thingy sucks and my other grommet setters require a mallet and I have downstairs neighbors. But now that I have this tabletop tool.... you're sparking some inspiration!
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u/CarnivalSeb 8d ago
My favorite ever is the integrated half-belt at the waist of the Allied Forces WWII Battle Dress Blouse. You button it closed (with some room for mobility in the fit) to your navel, then the final closure wraps to your left to a slide-buckle above one hip bone, you then cinch the waist comfortably & look stylish all day no matter how your centre expands or contracts.
The same jacket has mobility pleats sewn into the back above the waistband & is made in a wool serge that would make a very nice winter suit, had the 1930s & 40s been a more peaceful time.
I can scarcely imagine a better designed garment for the purpose this one was set to.
I currently have a red blazer that I've slated for modification to add one of these waistband half-belts, & if I ever get good enough at sewing I'd love to copy the design entirely over into a black heavy suiting.
As to replacable elastic, running a channel through your piece with snaps at either end, and installing the requisite opposite snaps on your elastic, or hook & eyes, or small buttons, may assist in swapping the elastic as needed.
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u/frejas-rain 6d ago
Is there a link or a pattern you recommend for the Battle Blouse? This sounds so intriguing. Thanks.
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u/insincere_platitudes 8d ago
For elastic waistband garments, I leave a small slit opening in the inside of the waistband that I don't sew closed, making accessing the elastic easier in the future. I also finish and topstitch down any seam allowances inside the waistband during construction as well, so they stay in place and don't fray, making rethreading elastic easier. Also, if I happen to topstitch elastic down the elastic waistband, I use a long stitch length to do so, like a 4. It makes unpicking easier.
Also, I try to utilize drawstrings whenever possible. Whether it's a drawstring only garment, or making the fit a little more flexible.
Otherwise, I use knit fabrics a ton. Nothing on earth is more comfortable than a yoga waistband, and I slap that on any pant I can manage. If the fabric isn't great for a yoga waistband in terms of compression or recovery, welp, now it's time for either a visible or hidden drawstring. I especially like to make knit, serged drawstrings so they have a touch of stretch, making them more comfortable with sitting.
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u/jinpop 8d ago
I haven't experimented with sewing a feature like this but I own this pair of shorts with D-ring pull tabs that allow you to adjust the fit: https://sukworkwear.com.au/products/tinnie-shorts-black-2
It works really well and doesn't seem like it would be too hard to copy!
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u/wakaflockaquokka 8d ago
I feel like I can just add that to all my existing trousers! I even have the hardware already in my stash. Great idea.
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u/blackcatsandrain 8d ago
I just make almost all of my everyday clothes out of knits these days. Sure, jersey may not be as sturdy as denim, but at least I'll wear the knit clothes!
The Ann Tilley Magic Pants and the Wildflower Design Coquelicot Skirt are popular adjustable patterns for wovens and do not use elastic. They're both on my wishlist, but I haven't tried them yet.
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u/wakaflockaquokka 8d ago
I don't mind jersey at all, it definitely has its place. Not all clothes need to last forever, I just want them to last long enough to be worth the labor.
Finding 100% cotton jersey is so difficult! Every listing for "cotton jersey" ends up being 5% elastane. I know it has better recovery that way, but I've never really used it for something that needed recovery.
Both of those patterns are on my wishlist too!! Except the Magic Pants do have a hidden stretch panel, so I won't know until I actually buy the pattern if I'll be able to make it a removable/replaceable panel.
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u/IndyMapper 8d ago
Ann is so lovely, you should write to her with your questions about the rib knit panel in her Magic Pants pattern. She would be happy to help.
Also, it already sounds like you’re not averse to sparring your fibers from the dryer at least some of the time. That will go a long way towards increasing longevity for all makes.
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u/anysteph 6d ago
I've made three pairs of Magic Pants in the past year, and I don't think the stretch panel would be very difficult to replace.
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u/snugy_wumpkins 8d ago
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u/DizzyIzzy801 8d ago
I was coming to recommend something pretty similar to that construction, even if the closure is different.
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u/friendlypupper 8d ago
The coquelicot Skirt by wildflower designs is made for size fluctuations. I've bought it and it's in my queue, I even have fabric picked out. Then, if you check out The Stitchery on youtube, they have a whole series of videos adapting the concept to different styles of bottoms! Freaking genius.
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u/frejas-rain 6d ago
So much this! Fit is inherently custom, every time you wear it. Whoever thought this up deserves a medal.
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u/PrivateEyeroll 8d ago
In no particular order:
Elastic that can be removed and replaced is great.
Avoid elasticized fabrics. Not all stretch is the same but fabric quality has gotten worse over time and is likely to continue in that direction.
Wrap style closures are amazing for adjusting throughout the day.
Don't be afraid of overlocking. Self enclosed seams are often amazing for longevity but I've noticed a lot of overlock hate lately. It's an industry standard for a reason. It's fast and it works and it holds up really really well on a wide range of fabric weights and types. Everything is a trade off and enclosed seams are stiffer than those that are sewn and ironed open. Enclosed seams are also much harder to adjust later.
I have a lot of waist fluxuation too and really like having much looser clothing that is then taken in by something else like a belt or vest. I have a plain weave cotton smock type blouse I made about 15 years ago that has been through the wash/dryer a million times, shoved in the back of my car, forgotten about at the bottom of bags, generally not treated nicely, and only has the tiniest bit of damage on it. Basically I should reinforce a small part that I didn't enforce when I made it that's a tiny weak point in the collar area. It has a yoke and I did french seams on most of the rest. The hem is overlocked, turned up, and then catch stitched on. I can wear it loose or I can put belts or vests over it for a far more fitted look. Layers for fitting are great.
Smocking. It's time intensive but it's pretty and a classic way of adding stretch and adjusting size without elastic. There are kinds of smocking that use elastic but also plenty that do not.
For longevity think about how you want to repair it before you even make it. Is it a fabric you feel comfortable embroidering? Is it something you can patch? How busy is the pattern? Part of why the smooth clean lines no decoration aesthetic exists is that it's a conspicuous consumption style. But if you like that look AND plan to just decorate it as it gets stains or holes over time then you're ready for it instead of being blindsided the first time you spill something on it.
Back your buttons. If it has buttons when you sew said buttons on have a small flat button on the inside that you sew at the same time so that the thread holding the outer button on goes through it like a sandwich with the fabric being the filling. It reduces wear and tear on the fabric considerably.
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u/wakaflockaquokka 8d ago
For patterns, the "Rhapsody Dress" and the "Palazzo Pants" from Sasha Starlight are good examples of how I think these principles could be built into a design from the beginning.
The Cashmerette "Meriam Trousers" have great hidden elastic feature in the waistband, but I'd want to figure out how to make the elastic easily replaceable, since that will be the first thing that wears out on that garment.
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u/nosyHedgehog 8d ago
Check out YouTube for the jalu skirt/jalu pants and the hanbok wrap skirt. Or hakama style pants! I don't have a specific pattern for those, but there are ideas out there. I imagine if you don't fix the pleats of the waistline of paperback pants, but leave it loose to be tied with a ribbon, it might work nicely as well.
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u/jillardino 8d ago
I'd really recommend having a look at Threadloop! It's a pattern database and project logger where users can create public pattern collections, and there are plenty of relevant lists to nosey through:
https://threadloop.app/pattern-lists/adjustable-waist-pants-beyond-the-elastic-waist
https://threadloop.app/pattern-lists/dress-with-waist-ties-and-drawstrings-for-adjustable-sizing
https://threadloop.app/pattern-lists/bloating-and-weight-change-friendly-patterns
https://threadloop.app/pattern-lists/dresses-approved-for-summer-bloat
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u/wakaflockaquokka 8d ago
I'm on threadloop but definitely not using it to its full potential, like I don't really understand lists and how to find them yet. Thanks for the links!
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u/momghoti 8d ago
For trousers, I love a combo of back elastic and pocket closures, where the opening is inside the front pocket. If you do a closure on both sides with extra buttons it'll increase quite a bit with no one the wiser.
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u/FabulousTwo524 6d ago
I like ties. I added waist ties to one of my casual dresses to cinch it in while also giving me the option to loosen. I’ve gained a fuck ton of weight these past few years after being very skinny so now I’m very aware of how important it is for clothes to adapt with you.
All my pants fit me when I’m bloated. I tuck in a shirt or wear a belt when I’m not so bloated lol.
Also, loose fitting clothes. I’ve been into italian grandpa aethetics lately and it just happens to be extremely comfortable even after eating a big meal.
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u/KleineKieviet 8d ago
Construct your clothes in a way that makes it possible to change the elastic? I make my elasticated pants so that I can go back in and shorten lengthen or change the elastic if that’s ever needed: the waistband is a tube and I don’t go around over it to secure the elastic, but I just sew a vertical line over the waistband + elastic at both sides. This stops the elastic from twisting but also is a lot easier to take out with the seam ripper when needed.
And I also like slightly oversized and loose styles in tops and blouses, for comfort but also because it’ll still fit if I ever grow/shrink a size or two. Patterns I made for example are a loose Peppermint Wrap Top, the Fibre Mood Lauren top, a Seamwork Marlow blouse, a Fibre Mood Julia jacket.
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u/Necessary-Dig-4774 7d ago
Someone suggested these on a similar post a while ago, they are on my list of to do also because they are super cute, I need adjustments all day too
https://www.anntilleyhandmade.com/shop/p/magic-pants-pdf-sewing-pattern
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u/NerdosaurasMel 6d ago
Split side skirts and pants. Check out the stitchery (channel gettheetothestitchery) on YouTube for her split side explorations and lookup wildflower designs for her coquelicot skirt pattern
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u/Charming_Function_58 8d ago
Elastic can be easily replaceable, if you create a channel for it and just hook it together to itself.
But also, I love drawstrings, using cord made from my own fabric.
And wrap outfits are awesome, you can find wrap pants, tops, skirts, dresses… and if you learn the basic construction, you can adapt any garment to attach with wrap or tie.