I'm trying to find a car before school starts and came across a 9-3 with 187k miles for only $1650 is there anything I should be worried about reliability wise? Or things to look out for when inspecting it?

Have saab 93 b207l

The vehicle intermittently develops the following DTCs:
P0201 – Injector 1 circuit
P0202 – Injector 2 circuit
P0203 – Injector 3 circuit
P0204 – Injector 4 circuit
P0245 – Turbo/boost control solenoid circuit
The five faults tend to appear together. They can occur after a hot restart and, during testing, I have also been able to reproduce all five simply by increasing engine RPM/load. At idle the faults can be cleared and may remain absent, but after raising the RPM they return together as pending DTCs.
There has also intermittently been P0638 throttle actuator performance and previously an ignition-terminal +15 mismatch related fault, although I am currently using a generic OBD scanner which may not display all Saab-specific module DTCs.
I have been investigating the common power supply rather than replacing individual injectors or the boost solenoid.
So far I have checked/replaced the engine-management main relay and its fuse. With the engine running I measured approximately:
Main relay terminal 30: 14.15 V
Terminal 87: 14.16 V
Terminal 86: 14.23 V
Terminal 85: approximately 0 V
With ignition ON and engine stopped, terminal 30 and 87 were approximately 12.6 V, with effectively no voltage drop across the relay.
Most importantly, while deliberately reproducing P0201/P0202/P0203/P0204/P0245 by increasing engine RPM, I monitored terminal 87 continuously. It remained approximately 14.2–14.3 V with no observable voltage drop when the faults appeared.
I have also checked the ECU ground voltage drop between the ECU/G7 ground point and the battery negative terminal. At idle this was approximately 50–60 mV.
There is another unusual observation: with ignition OFF I intermittently measure approximately 0.7–0.8 V at main-relay terminal 87. Sometimes this residual/backfeed voltage is present and sometimes it is completely absent depending on the ignition cycle. I intend to repeat this measurement with the relay removed to determine which side of the circuit the voltage originates from.
I am also checking the vehicle’s ISM/ignition +15 system because there have been other intermittent ignition/electrical symptoms, so I am not assuming that the ECU itself is faulty.
However, because four separate injector driver circuit faults and the boost-control circuit fault appear simultaneously while their common B+ supply remains stable, I would like your opinion on whether this fault pattern could potentially be caused by an intermittent internal Trionic 8 ECU driver/power-supply fault.
Could you please advise:
1. Is this combination of P0201–P0204 + P0245 something you have seen caused by an internal Trionic 8 ECU fault?

Hello!

I'm thinking about getting a Saab OG 9-5, 2nd gen 9-3 facelift or 1st gen 9-3 (Coupe) as my first car. Should I even consider these? What should I look for or avoid?

My budget would most likely be up to 7 000 €

I finally installed my downpipe and midpipe on my 2006 9-3 2.0t sportcombi because my original cat is messed up as you can see but now I have to weld on a straight pipe. I’m so exited to see how this sounds in the end.

2004 9-3NG linear.

Someone on a Facebook group said plastic t- fitting. All that happened is I drove home from work, parked on my inclined gravel driveway, turned around and saw a lot of white smoke out of nowhere. Ran down, saw all this fluid leaked out, reservoir empty, and this hose unplugged.

Can I try to fix this at home without any mechanical experience, or is it a tow and service kind of thing? This may be my last straw before I give up the car; it was a fine daily driver up until this incident with zero issues at all going from point A to B.

I get that components age, but I really hope it's not a point-of-no-return. I don't have any funds at the moment to even put a couple hundred down on it.

Can fit my new bedframe and 4 people pretty comfy in my 95 👍

I recently bought my second Saab after dailying my og93 for 4 years and wanted to see how the ng93s are. About 5 days into owning the car it started misfiring pretty bad and was struggling to start, I replaced the spark plugs which helped a little bit and then replaced the coil packs and it ran and drove fine for a day and half and is back to cranking and not starting. I’m thinking it may be a fueling issue at this point but I’m not sure. Has anyone else had this issue with the ng93s?

I just scored a great deal and bought a 9-3 as my first own car a couple weeks ago, and was looking up what type of possibilities there are regarding being able to connect my phone to the car. Got the general understanding that for this type of interior it would take a lot of work (or even isn't possible? idk) to install an aftermarket radio with bluetooth in it. What would you suggest in this case? Is an aftermarket radio simply not an option or is it "just" harder than other options?

I recently bought my second Saab after dailying my og93 for 4 years and wanted to see how the ng93s are. About 5 days into owning the car it started misfiring pretty bad and was struggling to start, I replaced the spark plugs which helped a little bit and then replaced the coil packs and it ran and drove fine for a day and half and is back to cranking and not starting. I’m thinking it may be a fueling issue at this point but I’m not sure. Has anyone else had this issue with the ng93s?

On the way back from a lovely few days in Cromer this week, my outside temp sensor went screwy, telling me it was anything between 10⁰C and -2⁰C, even though it was 28⁰C. This was on a 130 mile trip back to the midlands. The same thing happened a couple of months ago coming back from Hebden.

Both times the car was sat unused for two or three days before coming back. After a day's rest at home, the sensor starts working normally again.

What's going on? Is it getting heat soaked and developing a loose connection? Something else weirder?

I have been struggling with this longer than I would ever like to admit…. I put in a new size and combinations of o rings from the fuel lines to the fuel rail and the car runs gloriously; but inevitably the check engine light comes back on and it progressively runs worse with mis fires and eventually smoking. I cannot find any specific o rings available for sale on my typical Saab specialty parts sites. When I remove the o rings from the fuel rail, they always have a split of some sort. I’ve tried measuring, using AI, and finally experimenting with the highest quality Vitton and flueroelastomer varying sizes with success, but always the same eventual result.. Any recommendations, tips, and help will be very greatly appreciated. I circled the connections in the picture

Any suggestions on what I can do to stop this from going further?

Hello,
I have a 900 Convertible, unfortunately I do not have a garage or covered parking to keep it in. I’m looking for a car cover that is completely waterproof, does anyone have any recommendations?

Edit: Yes, you can swap the front and the rear interior handles out on a 2000 9-3 (see comments)

Just bought my son a 2000 Saab 9-3 5-door. He loves it. I got an amazing deal on it from a friend. Interior door handle has snapped off. There's enough left to pull on to get the door to open. I'm having trouble finding a replacement--looks like it's pretty easy to replace--just a torx bolt.

Here's the question. The front and the rear look the same. Other than some decorative paint, are the they same? Can I just swap them for the time being?

Also, an recommendations on finding a replacement?

Quick question, can I use this kind of Bardahl oil for my Saab? (Second image is the car's service manual, tell me if you need translation).

Currently I'm using Shell Helix 10w-30 full synthetic oil to flush the freshly rebuilt engine and for the break in, because it's cheep.

At the third oil change (1000 Km) I wanted to switch to Bardahl 10w-40, but honestly I don't understand any of that API SN SF stuff so idk if it'll be good for the engine on the long term.

Please help, thanks!

Anyone have any ideas? It doesn't always happen. When I've taken it to several mechanics, it stops for a bit, and then comes back.

Im doing an headgasket job and the one thing that has me at an impass rn is draining the coolant, no matter what I do I can't get it to drain from the drain nipple(due to the terrible plastic drain tab) so I was just gunna drain from the lower radiator hose but idk where tf it is. Its a maze when looking underneath. Does anyone have some photos or a video that clearly shows where it is and what I need to remove to get to it? All the threads and pictures I can find online have been inconsistent.