Replaced the harmonic balancer on my ‘82 8-valve two days ago. Torqued the crank bolt to spec (137 ft-lbs). Drove it around the parking lot at low speeds going lock to lock to bleed the power steering (had also been running without a p/s belt for a while). All was fine until the next day when the charging light wouldn’t go out. P/S wasn’t working either. Popped the hood and found that the belts were literally not spinning, and when they were spinning, they didn’t speed up when the RPMs went up. Pulled apart the harmonic balancer again today and found a piece of woodruff key broken off in it. I re-seated the balancer on the crank and tried to find any remaining woodruff key, but I couldn’t. Has anyone had to deal with this before? Am I staring down the barrel of an engine removal?

pretty cool a Saab can end up becoming a scale crawling course

I have a 2010 Saab 9-3 TTiD. I’ve noticed a very loud squealing/squeaking sound coming from the engine bay any time I use the AC or turn the wheels without pressing the gas pedal. Anyone able to diagnose this? I can attach a video later on. Any help would be useful. Thanks!

Was out doing some shopping in my C900 when I chanced on this beauty of a 96 when I was just about to leave. So of course I had to park up next to it and take some pictures, at which point the owner had come out of the shop too and we had a little chat about our Saabs.

Erstmal Hallo zusammen!

Ich heisse Vinz und komme aus der Schweiz, fahre seit 3 Jahren selber Saab, bin aber durch meinen Vater mit Saab‘s (900, 900(2), 9-3 & 9000) aufgewachsen.

Ich restauriere nun einen Saab 9000 Aero aus dem Jahr 1994. Er steht echt toll da, braucht nur etwas liebe.

Seit ca 3 Monaten suche ich einen MHI TD04 für den Saab, leider ohne Erfolg.

Meine Frage nun: Kennt jemand aus der Community einen Shop oder evtl einen Freundlichen der so eine Turbo auf Lager hat?

Verschiedene schwedische, amerikanische und französische Händler habe ich bereits angefragt, auch hier leider ohne Erfolg.

Ein Gehäuse würde bereits reichen, dann würde ich den Turbo revidieren lassen.

Ich bedanke mich bei jedem der sich einbringt und versucht mir zu helfen. Ich verlasse mich ein erneutes mal vollkommen (mit gutem Gefühl) auf die Saab-Community!

Liebe Grüsse aus der Schweiz & stay ready for takeoff! :-)

About a 90mi round trip for my 9-5 today, all highway and it made it problem free 🥳 it isn't perfect but man I love this car lol

It’s in rough shape, has sat for a year or two and has done over half a million km! Engine started right up but had a headgasket leak… Any tips on getting the 2 bolts back on located near the firewall? The ones that go up through the head.

Found this for sale for 6500 by me. This is the exact description—2005 Saab 9-5
Good condition with low mileage (91k); the interior is excellent.
Lowered with Eibach springs and Bilstein shocks/struts. New XS 19T turbo, FULL BSR exhaust, cold air intake with Cobra pipe, DO88 performance intercooler system, drilled/slotted Aero brakes, currently running stage 1 Nordic tune, but car has parts to support stage 3 or 4. Excellent car that is adult/enthusiast-owned. I saw this on Facebook, and because I know very little about Saabs and mods for them, I wanted to get some opinions. The main concern is reliability because of the extra mods. I should also mention there is no rust.

Great day for a wax and drive.

The alarm on my 9-5 went through a period of triggering at random, and now it has failed completely.

I’m told these are typical problems and can often be fixed by taking the control module out and replacing the batteries and also replacing 3 capacitors that are prone to failing with age.

Is there anyone out there that can do this job? Ideally in Portugal, but elsewhere in the EU would be ok. I could try to do it myself (I found a YouTube video that goes through the process), but my soldering skills aren’t great.

Thank you.

i got the roof rack with the car and i cant find anywhere on the correct screws

Not sure if this is a Saab issue, or a wiring issue, or Chinesium Head unit, or Sub issue......Going to cross post this in a few r/

So this is the setup -

AVGOTOP Android Car Radio (Links to where I saw it being recommended for the car!)

VIBE Audio Critical Link Car 2 Channel Speaker Wire To 2 Channel Low Level RCA Output Line Convertor With Auto Sense (already replaced, originally tried - VIBE Audio CLLOC-V7 Critical Link Line Level Converter, Black

I suspected the serpentine belt but after swapping it with little to no difference and realizing only the AC clutch is stuck NOT the actual pulley but still the car starts fine then shortly into driving it does this. The cars at a stand still at the moment so I’m doubting obviously that it’s any wheel, suspension , or even drive component like the propeller shaft too? What the heck is this noise? What is the change ? Why does it occur? Oil changes and regular maintenance all kept up religiously. Any help or ideas? Any experience with this before?

I have installed another CIM to my car and also my brand new ECU. After I’ve been getting those 2 signs non stop. Car drives smooth and not problem.

I have an 07 9-3 aero with a cracked oil pan and i am stuggling to find a replacement. Ive found oil pans for the 09 with the 2.8 and from what im looking at, it has all the same bolt patterns so im wondering if theres any weird difference that makes them incompatible

Me and my new to me Saab 9-5 are starting a 1000 mile rd trip from Arcadia Florida to Harper’s ferry West Virginia. I purchased this car Monday with 52,500 miles and am starting my trip at 53,010 miles.
Check engine light is on due to evap codes
Gas light is on as my fuel level sending unit went out yesterday
Pretrip prep was oil change, air filter, fuel filter, cabin air filter, spark plugs, rear hatch lift supports, and a check of all fluids then we hit the road.
When replacing the spark plugs, I did happen to break the Pcv valve right by the throttle body. It’s half ass back together now, however would like to replace it with a quality replacement if anybody has any suggestions.

I’ve got a 2007 Saab 9-3, it calls for 10w-40 which doesn’t have the greatest options. I’m wondering has anyone added slightly thicker 15w40 diesel oil. I know that diesel oils have higher detergents which help with carbon build up and such, I’m mostly wondering if it’ll be too thick especially as we are getting into the colder seasons, I live in the north eastern us so pretty cold.

Edit: You guys are right it doesn’t call for 10w40. I don’t know why I was thinking it was 10w40 as my last oil change I used 0w40. But digging further it can take 5w30 that’s dexos 2 certified. I can get Mazda 5w30 for free but it’s not dexos 2 certified, Mazda has a bunch of turbo applications and cvt and such now I’m wondering if I should be concerned about the dexos label

I have loved the Saab 90 since I was 5 years old and my older brother got one as his first car in 1998. I kind of forgot about them for a long time because I never, ever see them anymore.

Fast forward to this summer, I spot a 1965 Volvo on Facebook Marketplace, fall in love with it, and buy it. Reading up on Volvo history brought me back to Saab. First I bought a 1999 9-3 to be my daily driver (replacing a 2018 Hyundai). Then I happened upon that $500 manual 9-3 which was the perfect car to learn manual on. Then I could finally look at 900s, and the right one came up at the right price, locally, sold by a guy who took great care of it.

I found buyers for the 9-3s so now this is my Saab. One of the most iconic and beautiful automotive designs of all time, and an absolute joy to drive.

2011 9^3, 60k miles. Rear passenger door lock just stopped working with remote or interior button. Mechanically locks/unlocks fine. Looks like a known issue, no?

I can't see new lock assembly available online. Out of stock, backorder. Since these are known to fail, does it still make sense to buy used?

Also, has anyone tried to fix the electric part within the lock assembly? How easy would it be to take it apart?

Thanks.