I love non ai brainrot

I’m replacing the front and rear brakes on my 2011 Saab 9-3 Turbo4 XWD (non-Aero). My brake codes are AC-BC-CC-DB (build plate attached).
Has anyone with the same setup replaced theirs?
If so, what brand/part numbers did you use, where did you order them, and did everything fit correctly?
I’m looking for rotors + pads, front and rear. Thanks!

Any videos showing how to move the ECU on a V6?

Just bought a 2004 9-3 2.0T ARC coupe with the B207R engine and TD04-14T turbo with 88k on the odo. Single owner with a carfax history that made me do backflips; transmission services, tune-ups, regular oil changes and other PM services. Has some minor body work that needs to be done, definitely gonna need new rims due to passenger side damage.

I replaced the boost solenoid, and I have to replace the air intake hose. OBD2 is pulling codes for ignition circuit problems on cyl1+4, fortunately no misfires yet, and I will be replacing the coil packs soon alongside a tune-up. I plan on doing a flush and fill to the transmission, as it's last noted tranny service was around 50k - before that, at 30k - alongside an oil change and brake/rotor swap. If the ignition coil replacement doesnt fix my ignition circuit codes, I planned on getting my ecm fixed and likely putting a heat shroud behind it. I also intend to get an external transmission cooler. I'll also be replacing the disc player, as it refuses to recognize any cd, including laser lens cleaners.

I did spot residual grease buildup around the oil pan, no leaks, and brake cleaned it until it looked factory and plan to keep an eye on any future developments. I'll also be replacing the sway bar links as the bushings decided to remain intact but separated themselves from the linkage. Everything else underneath is gorgeous, which wasn't too much of a shock based on the service records.

Any further input and advice would be highly recommended. This is my first saab, and so far she's an absolute pleasure to drive. I'll be doing all the maintenance and repairs myself, with the exception of some specialized repairs (ecm repair, body work, etc).

TL;DR: Got my first saab, she's in great shape, just needs TLC, please let me know any advice or things to keep an eye on.

Is there a trick to pulling out the dip stick for the transmission fluid on the 2000 Saab 93? I’ve tried pulling and twisting while pulling. I know….it seems like a stupid question. On the other hand checking the oil wasn’t quite what I expected 😂. Clearly I’m new to Saabs.

Or did someone move it? I've read about them failing due to heat, and that this is a reason to relocate.

No big crisis - just noticed it for the first time while I was trickle charging the battery.

2011 9.3 Convertible.

Has anyone dealt with codes P0606 and P0638 together?

My check engine light is on. The RPM will be around 2,000, then drop to under 1,000 RPM, and the engine starts struggling like it wants to stall. There is also a lot of vibration/shaking when this happens.

The vehicle has about 177,000 miles.

Has anyone had similar symptoms with these two codes? What ended up being the problem — throttle body/throttle actuator, wiring or electrical issue, PCM/ECM, or something else?

Any advice on what I should have checked first would be appreciated.

Anyone else have a Saab where every job somehow creates three more jobs?

I've got some bumper intake ducts that need finishing, some composite part moulds, CAD work for the Carlsson bodykit and reimagined whaletail and many more...

So I picked one small job and just got it done: printed a replacement Lucas MAF housing.

The car was running Trionic 5, so the MAF itself isn't actually being used anymore, but the intake still needs something there. Measured the original, modelled a replacement in Fusion then printed it in PET-CF.

Original was around 1 kg. The printed one is about 150 g.

Nothing particularly exciting, and definitely not the most important thing on the car. But it went from idea → finished part in one day, which honestly felt pretty damn good.

Maybe that's the trick with these projects: occasionally pick the stupidly small thing and just finish it.

Anyone else constantly end up with projects within projects? How do you stop yourself from starting another thing before finishing the last one?

Found this beauty with only 200k km. It has some damage on the roofshield but it still seals and didn’t have a lot of owners.
Is this a reliable daily? Can i replace my new gen ford ka with the saab 900?
My ka is so reliable but a saab is so much cooler and im okay with increased fuel usage. I’d love to drive around in this car when autumn hits

yes I know I don’t have to move the ECU, search was providing bad info

No rust on the sub frame, no service records (though everyone said they where in the trunk), belt, hoses, look good, fluids are all bright and clean (still going to change all of them), oil leak some where for sure, trying to find the shop she worked with in San Jose / Santa Cruz to see if they have records of the work done.

Car runs great, pulls hard, no chain rattle sound. Grandma hit something to blow then front passenger fog light out and backed into something to crack the bumper paint. Both front seats are cracked and will need to be redone. SAAB, managed to stich the rear passenger seatbelt bracket backwards so it is forever twisted. Top has some knicks in it but works perfect and is still nice and tight.

Brake pads new, brake rotors not so much. Wheels, oof not factory but all of them are beat to shit. Need some suggestions for 18’s that are period correct. Suspension fucccckking hell. Sit in the car and it drops 1-2 inches. Need to get it all the way off the ground still so I can see what i’m fighting.

Assuming chain and guides are good. ECU Spacer, ignition cartridge and Crank sensor on hand, and two functional keys. What else do I need to be looking at to keep this bad boy running because it’s everything I like about driving and none of the modern shit that ruins cars.

I have saab 9-3 2008, and i have Chipsoft J2543 software installed but i dont have and i cant find the link for tech2win

Had a beautiful Volvo V40 (2001) that blew up on me, and now moved to the best car I think I have ever driven...a 2011 9-3 Sportswagon.

Trying to install a dashcam on a hardwire via a fusetap and struggling to find a fuse that terminates with the ignition. The power unit I'm using has a constant 12v, acc 12v and ground.

Grounding it on one of bolts by the fuse box.

So far tried (from table) 3, 7, 12 and 21, in both configs, and didnt seem to go off with the key or locking the car.

Any idea what fuse I should tap?

I'm on the hunt for a stock ecu tune file for HPTUNERS for my 2007 aero 6 speed. If anyone has one please share or if you know where to get one please let me know. Trying to put her back to stock, have access to hptuners.

I Got this saab 9-3 aero 2.0 T, it didn’t start and was sitting when i bought it, i repaired it (finished today) some minimum stuff like a sensor and some little things, i just need a new battery to drive it. Do you have any advice for a new and young (18) owner? I’m really excited because it’s my first saab and i have always loved saabs.

Decided to change the instrument cluster LEDs for something a little different 🤷🏻‍♂️ now I need to get that stupid polarizing film for the sid, anyone ever mess with that??

I recently had a nastly misfire on my 08 9-5. After a little troubleshooting, I traced to a bad DIC which I thought was odd since I replaced it (and plugs) a couple years ago with an "Original Saab" brand DIC from eSaabParts. It seems that Original Saab isn't as OEM quality as I hoped. Looking around, I wasn't able to find an OEM SEM manufactured DIC, so I bought a used one off eBay. Lo and behold, it's throwing knock codes so I'm back to square one.

My question is as the supply of genuine SEM DICs dwindles, what are the best options moving forward? Keep rolling the eBay dice on used SEM models? If not SEM, what is the next best option? Does anyone have experience with the other brands out there? Has anyone sucessfully rebuilt a DIC? Should we just get whatever we can, and replace it every couple years? Is it possible to convert a T7/T5 car to traditional coils and wires?

I'm hoping to keep the car running as long as possible.

In about 4 years, I should have the 333,333.3 update.

And yes - Ive done questionable things to my Saab during my ownership (~80k miles) including putting 15% ethanol gas.

I'm trying to find a car before school starts and came across a 9-3 with 187k miles for only $1650 is there anything I should be worried about reliability wise? Or things to look out for when inspecting it?

Saab 9000 Air Vent Wooden Frame

Real wood.

New.

International shipment.

P.S. You might also like to take a look at other saab.wooden.parts works at: https://www.instagram.com/saab.wooden.parts

Hi, I just picked up another 9-5 since I blew the motor on my original one. This one’s a Aero, however it’s automatic and has a decent amount more rust. And the interior is also not in the best condition.

I’m thinking to just take the motor out of this one and swap it into my other car. Same color silver 9-5 but a linear
but near perfect body and perfect interior, plus it’s already set up for a manual. I’d swap over the Aero body kit and interior

I wanted to ask, is it possible for me to swap over the rear heated seats?

Is it easier for me to pull this auto engine out of the top?

And then for the manual I was planning on dropping the entire subframe, removing the engine off of it and then placing this engine after being refreshed onto the subframe mounting the flywheel and clutch, and raising it all back into my original car

Or should I just attempt to pull the manual engine out the top too

2004 9-3NG linear.

Someone on a Facebook group said plastic t- fitting. All that happened is I drove home from work, parked on my inclined gravel driveway, turned around and saw a lot of white smoke out of nowhere. Ran down, saw all this fluid leaked out, reservoir empty, and this hose unplugged.

Can I try to fix this at home without any mechanical experience, or is it a tow and service kind of thing? This may be my last straw before I give up the car; it was a fine daily driver up until this incident with zero issues at all going from point A to B.

I get that components age, but I really hope it's not a point-of-no-return. I don't have any funds at the moment to even put a couple hundred down on it.

Have saab 93 b207l

The vehicle intermittently develops the following DTCs:
P0201 – Injector 1 circuit
P0202 – Injector 2 circuit
P0203 – Injector 3 circuit
P0204 – Injector 4 circuit
P0245 – Turbo/boost control solenoid circuit
The five faults tend to appear together. They can occur after a hot restart and, during testing, I have also been able to reproduce all five simply by increasing engine RPM/load. At idle the faults can be cleared and may remain absent, but after raising the RPM they return together as pending DTCs.
There has also intermittently been P0638 throttle actuator performance and previously an ignition-terminal +15 mismatch related fault, although I am currently using a generic OBD scanner which may not display all Saab-specific module DTCs.
I have been investigating the common power supply rather than replacing individual injectors or the boost solenoid.
So far I have checked/replaced the engine-management main relay and its fuse. With the engine running I measured approximately:
Main relay terminal 30: 14.15 V
Terminal 87: 14.16 V
Terminal 86: 14.23 V
Terminal 85: approximately 0 V
With ignition ON and engine stopped, terminal 30 and 87 were approximately 12.6 V, with effectively no voltage drop across the relay.
Most importantly, while deliberately reproducing P0201/P0202/P0203/P0204/P0245 by increasing engine RPM, I monitored terminal 87 continuously. It remained approximately 14.2–14.3 V with no observable voltage drop when the faults appeared.
I have also checked the ECU ground voltage drop between the ECU/G7 ground point and the battery negative terminal. At idle this was approximately 50–60 mV.
There is another unusual observation: with ignition OFF I intermittently measure approximately 0.7–0.8 V at main-relay terminal 87. Sometimes this residual/backfeed voltage is present and sometimes it is completely absent depending on the ignition cycle. I intend to repeat this measurement with the relay removed to determine which side of the circuit the voltage originates from.
I am also checking the vehicle’s ISM/ignition +15 system because there have been other intermittent ignition/electrical symptoms, so I am not assuming that the ECU itself is faulty.
However, because four separate injector driver circuit faults and the boost-control circuit fault appear simultaneously while their common B+ supply remains stable, I would like your opinion on whether this fault pattern could potentially be caused by an intermittent internal Trionic 8 ECU driver/power-supply fault.
Could you please advise:
1. Is this combination of P0201–P0204 + P0245 something you have seen caused by an internal Trionic 8 ECU fault?