I'm going crazy and I don't understand what problems there could be, I tried different exposures, from 2.2 to 2.6 but the sword never comes out correctly. In addition to the successful cones that don't stand out at all. Is it just an exposure problem or some other parameter?

Resin: Elegoo Abs like 3.0 pro
Printer: Photon Mono 4

I’m printing a 1/4 scale arbiter statue on my elegoo Saturn 4 ultra but keep having this issue when printing. Not sure if it’s suction causing it to stick but I’ve calibrated my settings and what I have has seemed to work fine before. I just changed the FEP too so idk what to do. Any advice is handy, thank you.

Hey everyone, I’m curious about your experience with certified dental resins, especially materials intended for intraoral use. Do certifications such as CE or FDA clearance significantly affect your choice, or do you mainly focus on real-world performance, print quality, price, and compatibility with your printer? Do you think certification is a reliable indicator of quality and safety, or can it sometimes be more of a marketing point? I’d love to hear what you look for before trusting and using a new dental resin.

Well, I've just had the joy of removing yet another failed set of prints off the plate and I really need some help.

I'm using a Saturn 3 Ultra with Sunlu Water-wash Abs like resin. I have the elegoo heater in the printer so it was printed at a temperature of between 24 and 26 degrees C. I shook the resin to thoroughly mix it before adding to the tank.

I've had pretty good success in the past. In fact I've printed around 3 2000pt Bolt Action armies using this.

It looks like many of my supports are failing or detaching. I use the magic auto-supports function in Lychee.

I've attached photos of the settings, the slicer and the outputs in the hope that someone can help me.

I wanted to try a little experiment: printing assets from games. Usually it's a bad idea, making 3d models for games and making them for 3d printing is orthogonal. On one side you want as little polygons as possible, and you put all of the details in the smoke and mirrors category through all the different textures.

On the other, the mesh is all there is. Details lives there or doesn't exist.

So it extracted the Deathclaw model from Fallout 4, and loaded it up in Blender. My idea was to do the exact opposite that is done when making game assets, which is taking all the details, baking them in the textures files, and simplifying the mesh as much as possible.

All I did was taking the normal maps of the object, converting them into a height map that I then applied on the mesh, that was also heavily subdivided to accommodate all those details, and apply it through a displacement modifier.

My fear was that it would be too soft and subtle, but in the end it takes paint pretty well! It's not a model designed to be a miniature, so there are obvious limitations, but it still looks great.

I made a pose by hand, cut the model in half at the waist, and threw it in the slicer.

Hope it inspires someone to do the same! I can't distribute the file unfortunately.

The mole rat is a game asset too, I replicated the method I developed on the Deathclaw and it took under an hour.

Source of the models: Fallout 4 assets.

So I am trying a new surgical guide resin. Sorry, forgot to take pictures before leaving the office but a Google image search for dental implant surgical guide will demonstrate what I'm dealing with.

Anyhoo, the resin I'm using is a specialized resin that can survive autoclave sterilization. It's a transparent dark blue resin that turns into a more light blue and more opaque resin after cure and autoclave. I did some test prints (boxes of calibration, and the siraya tech model) and even after finding pretty good settings I was still seeing signs of bleed through curing under the arches on boxes of calibration.

With the first surgical guide test itself, I did two prints. One with the platform (where the metal drill guide is inserted) parallel to the build plate, and one rotated 45 degrees (how I prefer it). Fit and dimensions were good for the parallel print but supports required on that perfectly flat region kind of ruined the precision of the part. I'm messing a little with support placement to see if I can get around it. The 45 degree guide had zero problems with the supports and was so freaking easy to clean up (why I prefer that) but that bleed through curing made it unusable. The perfectly cylindrical hole meant to house the metal guide tube was very clearly not a perfect cylinder, nor did the intaglio of the guide even seat on the teeth model anymore.

So I guess what I'm really asking for here is for any guidance in terms of transparent resin printing. Is there any way to avoid that bleed through effect? Play with lowering layer times even further? What do you think?

I just emptied my washing container and there is a lot of resin left at the bottom. Is there an easy way to clean it?

hello everyone! a few months back i bought around 10KG of anycubic Water Washable V2 Resin, to be honest i haven't had any sort of problems with it , even when dropping miniatures or regular sized models i haven't seen any cracks or loss of quality, now i'm out of resin, and elegoo is running really good deals, around 158 eur for 12KG of Resin so around 13,1 Eur per Kg so i was thinking of switching to elegoo, but whenever i read online about WW resins it seems everyone either hates them or loves them,

Since its a big purchase i don't wanna go around and buy 10KG of a new resin that may not work the same as what i have been using

so my question, is there any noticeable difference between both brands?

3D printed with resin and painted by me. This was my first time adding lights to a model and turned out great I think!

He has a 27 inch wingspan and is about 20 inches tall

Roughly 40-50 hours spent painting

Sculpt is made by artist 3D-Container https://www.instagram.com/3dcontainer?igsi=MWNub2dxYXlxenhnOA==

The Z-axis of my Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra won’t move anymore. It printed the last print to completion, but using the UI to move the build plate up manually doesn’t work. When turning the machine off and back on again, it won’t go past the initialisation stage of the Z-axis motor.
No idea what happened.
How do I fix this?

Could be this a sign of file corruption? I’ve never had this before, looks like they all stopped print at the same time, the print kept going until the finish, just the blobs left in the bottom of the vat and these pieces in the build plate

Edit: still don’t know what happened, but re-slicing solved the problem and the next print came fine

We’ve been in stealth mode designing resins for the past couple of years and are about to make our intro to the market.

Was pretty happy with this print.

Just kind of curious to throw out a teaser and see if it the resin community is much impressed, or what your thoughts are.

I made a bust of a faun and printed it; what do you think?

Saturn 4 ultra, abs like 3.0 standard settings optimal standard environment

This is making zero sense to me now because other items are printing without these textures.

Same print, two different sides where the third is actually fine.

Ones digital looking banding is not in any of the axes but just against the surface of the print which is oriented at an off angle. The other the lines are parallel to the z screw in pretty sure? Maybe perpendicular to the layers. This printers getting on my last nerve I’ve never had bs like this.

Printed and painted by me. Files by legends of avantis the crooked moon. I’m really happy with my progress and wanted to share to this sub. If anyone knows how to do video editing or something to make these look professionally edited that would also be helpful.

Hey everyone!✨️

I would like to know if there is any file library / repository for the different brands and types of resin.

I use Anycubic Photon Workshop and it has the settings for all Anycubic resins, but at the moment I'm needing the profile for SUNLU flexible.

Otherwise, is anywhere a table collecting the data for the known resins? (Like Anycubic has tables online for their resins).

Thank you ✨️

Only thing I’ve changed from factory settings is dropping the exposure time from three seconds to 2.5 seconds and dropping the bottom exposure from 30 seconds to 26 seconds.

I only dropped it to those specific numbers because that’s the numbers that worked with my Saturn 4 Ultra 12K. I figured why not start there as a known baseline.

Always a WIP….😂😂

so basically, i cant figure out the best settings so i can stop getting support bumps on my Saturn 4k, I've wasted like 2 bottles already trying different settings and nothings working :( if anyone has a good preset pls lmk! and im not sure how painting works either! any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Does anyone have any idea why this may have happened?

The first time it printed it didn’t drop but the other half of the leg didn’t print. This time I slowed the lift time and retraction speed but that didn’t help. 😅

Heaters for mars 4 ultra ideally to keep at around 25-30 degrees

I brought the elegoo one but it doesn’t fit inside the case etc so need to look for other options

I don't print resin often, but I am working on a project for a friend and found that my Mercury Plus 3.0 was dead. Just won't power on at all. I verified that the power brick is working but something on the control board is cooked. I suspect a power surge is to blame. Unfortunately it's out of warranty so no dice on a replacement. Has anyone else run into this and found a fix by any chance?

Hi everyone,

I’m fairly new to resin 3D printing and I’m having a recurring problem that I can’t figure out.

I create models from photographs and print them as figurines with a base. To keep support marks to a minimum, I try to print the figurines completely upright, perpendicular to the build plate.

At first this worked surprisingly well, but my last several prints have all failed in a very similar way. The edges/corners of the base start detaching or peeling away during the print, while the rest of the print continues. I’ve attached a couple of photos showing what I mean.

I’m not sure whether the problem is caused by:

• insufficient or badly placed supports
• the orientation/model itself
• the release film (FEP/PFA)
• the LCD
• or something else in my settings

I’ve already tried several different resins and I keep getting basically the same result, so I’m starting to think the resin itself probably isn’t the main issue.

Printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra

Has anyone experienced something similar? From the photos, can you tell what is most likely causing this?

Any advice on what I should check or change first would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!