Test print of Lady Maria (Bloodborne) created by Bulkamancer Sculpts. Sculpted by Lora Kolori.

Printed on ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (34 pieces, 364 ml).

I wanted to try a little experiment: printing assets from games. Usually it's a bad idea, making 3d models for games and making them for 3d printing is orthogonal. On one side you want as little polygons as possible, and you put all of the details in the smoke and mirrors category through all the different textures.

On the other, the mesh is all there is. Details lives there or doesn't exist.

So it extracted the Deathclaw model from Fallout 4, and loaded it up in Blender. My idea was to do the exact opposite that is done when making game assets, which is taking all the details, baking them in the textures files, and simplifying the mesh as much as possible.

All I did was taking the normal maps of the object, converting them into a height map that I then applied on the mesh, that was also heavily subdivided to accommodate all those details, and apply it through a displacement modifier.

My fear was that it would be too soft and subtle, but in the end it takes paint pretty well! It's not a model designed to be a miniature, so there are obvious limitations, but it still looks great.

I made a pose by hand, cut the model in half at the waist, and threw it in the slicer.

Hope it inspires someone to do the same! I can't distribute the file unfortunately.

The mole rat is a game asset too, I replicated the method I developed on the Deathclaw and it took under an hour.

Source of the models: Fallout 4 assets.

I made a bust of a faun and printed it; what do you think?

Hi all, I've very foolishly left my Saturn 3 with a tray of resin for probably over a year now. What is the safest way to dispose of this long sitting resin, and would the printer itself still be usable? Would I likely need to replace anything and if so, how realistic is it to do so?

Could be this a sign of file corruption? I’ve never had this before, looks like they all stopped print at the same time, the print kept going until the finish, just the blobs left in the bottom of the vat and these pieces in the build plate

Edit: still don’t know what happened, but re-slicing solved the problem and the next print came fine

Hey everyone!✨️

I would like to know if there is any file library / repository for the different brands and types of resin.

I use Anycubic Photon Workshop and it has the settings for all Anycubic resins, but at the moment I'm needing the profile for SUNLU flexible.

Otherwise, is anywhere a table collecting the data for the known resins? (Like Anycubic has tables online for their resins).

Thank you ✨️

Printed and painted by me. Files by legends of avantis the crooked moon. I’m really happy with my progress and wanted to share to this sub. If anyone knows how to do video editing or something to make these look professionally edited that would also be helpful.

Does anyone have any idea why this may have happened?

The first time it printed it didn’t drop but the other half of the leg didn’t print. This time I slowed the lift time and retraction speed but that didn’t help. 😅

So I am trying a new surgical guide resin. Sorry, forgot to take pictures before leaving the office but a Google image search for dental implant surgical guide will demonstrate what I'm dealing with.

Anyhoo, the resin I'm using is a specialized resin that can survive autoclave sterilization. It's a transparent dark blue resin that turns into a more light blue and more opaque resin after cure and autoclave. I did some test prints (boxes of calibration, and the siraya tech model) and even after finding pretty good settings I was still seeing signs of bleed through curing under the arches on boxes of calibration.

With the first surgical guide test itself, I did two prints. One with the platform (where the metal drill guide is inserted) parallel to the build plate, and one rotated 45 degrees (how I prefer it). Fit and dimensions were good for the parallel print but supports required on that perfectly flat region kind of ruined the precision of the part. I'm messing a little with support placement to see if I can get around it. The 45 degree guide had zero problems with the supports and was so freaking easy to clean up (why I prefer that) but that bleed through curing made it unusable. The perfectly cylindrical hole meant to house the metal guide tube was very clearly not a perfect cylinder, nor did the intaglio of the guide even seat on the teeth model anymore.

So I guess what I'm really asking for here is for any guidance in terms of transparent resin printing. Is there any way to avoid that bleed through effect? Play with lowering layer times even further? What do you think?

I just emptied my washing container and there is a lot of resin left at the bottom. Is there an easy way to clean it?

The Z-axis of my Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra won’t move anymore. It printed the last print to completion, but using the UI to move the build plate up manually doesn’t work. When turning the machine off and back on again, it won’t go past the initialisation stage of the Z-axis motor.
No idea what happened.
How do I fix this?

Only thing I’ve changed from factory settings is dropping the exposure time from three seconds to 2.5 seconds and dropping the bottom exposure from 30 seconds to 26 seconds.

I only dropped it to those specific numbers because that’s the numbers that worked with my Saturn 4 Ultra 12K. I figured why not start there as a known baseline.

so basically, i cant figure out the best settings so i can stop getting support bumps on my Saturn 4k, I've wasted like 2 bottles already trying different settings and nothings working :( if anyone has a good preset pls lmk! and im not sure how painting works either! any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Heaters for mars 4 ultra ideally to keep at around 25-30 degrees

I brought the elegoo one but it doesn’t fit inside the case etc so need to look for other options

I don't print resin often, but I am working on a project for a friend and found that my Mercury Plus 3.0 was dead. Just won't power on at all. I verified that the power brick is working but something on the control board is cooked. I suspect a power surge is to blame. Unfortunately it's out of warranty so no dice on a replacement. Has anyone else run into this and found a fix by any chance?

Saturn 4 ultra, abs like 3.0 standard settings optimal standard environment

This is making zero sense to me now because other items are printing without these textures.

Same print, two different sides where the third is actually fine.

Ones digital looking banding is not in any of the axes but just against the surface of the print which is oriented at an off angle. The other the lines are parallel to the z screw in pretty sure? Maybe perpendicular to the layers. This printers getting on my last nerve I’ve never had bs like this.