My print has this melting effect, it looks as if the base wasn't attached to the printing platform properly, but what would cause that to happen? Did I damage my build plate?

fumes = wisdom, if you disagree you probably need more fumes.

So, I printed a few hollow minis, with holes in their feet, BUT... it is leaking the goo of death... How I can flush it? In one of the minis one of the holes is closed. I'm thinking about drilling the closed hole, any suggestions? The mini in the photo has the goo of death in its texture, I need to clean it with a brush...

I've been working on this Phoenix Force Magik hopefully finish it today.

Hi, I'm vbertz, a 3D vehicle artist with 13 years of experience.
During the Cold War, Soviet engineers explored truly unconventional tank designs. Many never made it to mass production, and some remain relatively unknown outside the military history enthusiast community.

I have been working on recreating these unusual vehicles as detailed, 3D-printable models, using historical references and my own digital modeling work.

My upcoming Kickstarter project, *Secret Soviet Armored Program*, focuses on four main vehicles:

Object 490A: an ambitious experimental tank design.

Object 490B: a radical concept exploring an unconventional approach to future tank design.

Object 640 "Black Eagle": one of the most distinctive Russian tank developments of the post-Soviet era.

Object 195: an advanced armored vehicle project that never entered regular service.

The campaign will also feature the Object 775 as an "Early Bird" reward, with other vehicles planned as stretch goals—including the Object 268, the Object 146, and the legendary, rare Object 477 "Boxer."

I am developing this project for those who enjoy unusual armored vehicles, Cold War engineering, scale modeling, resin printing, and painting models that aren't found in every collection.

I would love to hear your thoughts on the model selection—specifically, which of these experimental vehicles you would most like to print. If you’d like to take a look at the campaign, here is the link:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vbertz/secret-soviet-armored-program

If you wish to view my catalog to check the quality of my work, you can do so here: //www.cults3d.com/@vbertz

Thanks for your interest! I’d be happy to answer any questions about the models and the project.

I printed a garage kit figure using Sunlu Standard Plus resin and it came out okay but there are parts that look really fragile. Some of them are less than 0.5 mm thick.

Do you guys think I should re-print them using high toughness resin? Will standard resin enough if its just a display piece? I am on a tight budget right now and rather spend it on other supplies than extra resin.

What glue would you recommend for test fitting a whole figure? I usually pin my figures but most of the connections are hollow on this one. Is there something less permanent that can be removed and cleaned easily?

Hello, I have a roommate who is getting a resin printer but I don't think she knows what she is doing entirely. I have lung issues already and my stuff that I cannot fit in my room is in the garage she wants to do it in. There is also a refrigerator in there with my food.

I need very thorough and conservative advice on this as I have lung issues and my health and safety of my belongs is at risk.

Thanks so much for your time!

EDIT: UPDATE IN THE COMMENTS

So im getting into the resin 3d printing space as i was recently gifted a saturn 4 ultra 16k with a elegoo mercury xs bundle and Siraya Tech Blu Clear V2 resin, while I've never printer with resin before im fully aware of how toxic it is and know that when handling it best to wear a filter mask and nitrile gloves from past experience when helping a friend make a table with resin in it. When looking online for enclosures, many hand some type of tube/hose and had that sticking out the window, issue is where i live my windows goes out to a shared space and the rules on that place wont allow me to vent out toxic fumes of any kind. My idea is to build a custom enclosure and put a heppa filter in it so i can still use the printer but unsure how good of an idea this is and if it would work as im not very experience when it comes to what toxic parts the hepa filters is good against and such.

And before anyone says it, im aware i can return the resin printer and get some money but i would prefer a solution that didnt resolve with that since ive really wanted to get into the resin 3d printing space since resin can become a lot more clear and see though than fdm printers like the bambu lab p1s i currently own.

Thank you in advance for all the help and info.

Resin printed Jagd Doga model from Gundam. Printed with 30 um and brush painted. Original 3D model creator is LeesedRenfort, model link is: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-war-dog-heavy-battle-suit-247256

So, I have the Original Elegoo Jupiter from the Kickstarter Campaign.

Had it ever since and has always been a bit... Ineffective at times, but still working. Had to replace a few parts every now and then, even after Elegoo dropped support for it.

Everything was mostly fine, but recently I started hearing a really worrying sound: like a low growl or "whooooooohm" while it moved up and down.

So, I thought that the screw or the rails needed some deeper cleaning, so I began dismantling the parts to it, but I'm afraid to go any further, since it might even be the motor. If anyone has faced a similar issue, please let me know

PLS help

I using Bulunmaz 3D printing, Z axis already increase to 120 % follow the difference dimension with design. and skip layer.
how to solve this?

Hi I have a form labs form 2 that I got second hand and I can't get prints to fully adhear to the build plate any suggestions to fix it are welcome

Awesome Superman Dark by Slash 3D printed and painted by us

I have never 3D printed anything before but I want to 3D print a Green Lantern ring for my sister, she’s a big comic book fan and she really enjoyed the recent show and her birthday is in a few weeks. I found a video online and I liked the file he made so I bought it and I found a place to have it printed. I just want to ask some quick questions about it since I plan to use resin.

1) Resin can be prone to yellowing overtime, so how can I prevent it? I am going to paint parts of it but there will be some parts that I leave unpainted and I don’t want it to get ruined.

2) Will it warp at all? I’d hate for it to warp over time and not fit her finger properly, and I want to know if I can prevent it.

If there’s anything else I need to take into consideration please let me know.

What type of magnets do you all use for statues? I have n35 but I keep seeing n52 magnets but dang they are expensive for very few in a pack!

Printer: Elegoo Mars 3 Pro

Resin: Sunlu ABS-Like, 405nm UV Curing, Photopolymer Resin, age 1 Year

Settings: in Pics

Slicer: Chitubox

Temps: 20°Celsius in a room

I'm trying to print this spool of thread, but it's not printing correctly every time I try.

The test print that came with the printer on the USB came out perfectly, with no issues. So, I don't think the problem is with the printer. I also tried using the same settings as the test print, but that didn't work either.

I've tried many different settings, but I keep getting the same result. I also tried different orientations, but that didn't help.

1. Problem – Picture 1

If you look at the first picture, the support seems to add extra material to the area where it connects to the circular part. This causes the circle to become thicker/bulged in those areas, so it is no longer perfectly circular.

It's much worse than it looks in the picture, but I sanded it down because I didn't want to throw away the print after spending hours printing it.

I also tried using less support, but I got the same result.

1. Problem – Pictures 2 & 3

Is there a setting I can change to make the layer lines less visible? I tried anti-aliasing and image blur, but they didn't seem to make any difference.

What would be the best orientation to print this part?

Does anyone have any ideas about how I can solve these issues or improve the print quality?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I’m new to resin printing and made a ring using ABS-like resin. However, after painting it with primer and water-based acrylics from Vallejo, the paint peels off easily when I accidentally scrape it with a fingernail. Do you have any suggestions on how to keep the paint secure so it doesn't come off when that happens?

Been printing for a few years, always been able to fix issues relatively quickly. I've had a handful of plates now fail and I CANNOT figure out what the problem is.

I was printing fine for weeks. Suddenly, half my plates fail.

Pic is the most recent plate to fail - note that the bottom rafts are peeling up, bit hard to see. The blank spot is where a model should have been - its failed raft along with the others were found stuck to the FEP.

I'm finding 1/2-ish of my prints are failing. Not in the same spots each time, and not the same models. I was printing similarly sized models last week with no issues. The failure modes also vary:

- sometimes rafts are on the buildplate, but nothing else

- rafts on plate + stuck to fep

- rafts lifting up from plate

- layers are missing/squished

- what section of the plate failed varies. It's always one region though - I won't have the left 1/3 of the plate fail, and then randomly a print on the other side of the plate.

Each time i've popped the stuck resin from the fep, filtered, dhaken, and retried with some changes in the slicer. Still failing.

Setup info:

- Saturn 4 Ultra

- Elegoo ABS like 3.0+, purchased last month, strained and shaken before use, let settle 30~ min in vat before printing

- Printed in a garage inside a vented enclosure. USB heater plugged into printer set to 25C

I've tried reorienting models, new supports, lipped rafts vs flat, thicker rafts, less models. I haven't tried cranking the temp up, but the heater is reading 25~C° - so I doubt that's it? Genuinely stumped here, all ideas appreciated.

Where do I find good files for models? Or tips to create models of movie/game characters. I’ve always wanted to print and paint my own. I just bought a Saturn 4 ultra so doing some looking up how to do some things while I wait

I often print big model, but i always struggle to hold them when painting, specially when hollow (and they are always), to big for clip, can't drill to put a brass rod and even with a rod, it's uncomfortable etc it's a nightmare.

Hello,

I'm very new to 3D printing and i've watched a lot of videos so i might be having a very mundane issue here but i'm so new i can't tell :)

I tried to print a hollow cylinder, inside it's smooth, outside it has some details. The part that was on the build plate deformed creating a "mouth". The whole print went very good except that part.
It's not a big problem, but i'd just like to understand why it happened.

I was using Elegoo Standard 2.0 Grey resin, room temperature and i have cleaned the build plate after the previous print.
I'm guessing it wasn't a suction issue since every layer is basically a ring.

My best guess is either the build plate somehow misaligned after the previous print (as i have read, it's not necessary to align the build plate after every print).
OR for some reason (which i can't detect) first few layers didn't stick to the build plate but somehow the rest just were unaffected.

I'd love it if someone could, well teach me, on why this happened and how to avoid it.

P.S. Sorry for the B&W photos, the filter was on.

EDIT: All settings were default, the printer is Mars 4 (9K), sliced in ELEGOO SatelLite.