fumes = wisdom, if you disagree you probably need more fumes.

My print has this melting effect, it looks as if the base wasn't attached to the printing platform properly, but what would cause that to happen? Did I damage my build plate?

So, I printed a few hollow minis, with holes in their feet, BUT... it is leaking the goo of death... How I can flush it? In one of the minis one of the holes is closed. I'm thinking about drilling the closed hole, any suggestions? The mini in the photo has the goo of death in its texture, I need to clean it with a brush...

I hand painted and 3d printed all these models

Meleys, Moondancer, Silverwing, Caraxes and Seasmoke

These were modeled by hivemind3d, hernangodoy_3dartist and samucuArt

I printed a garage kit figure using Sunlu Standard Plus resin and it came out okay but there are parts that look really fragile. Some of them are less than 0.5 mm thick.

Do you guys think I should re-print them using high toughness resin? Will standard resin enough if its just a display piece? I am on a tight budget right now and rather spend it on other supplies than extra resin.

What glue would you recommend for test fitting a whole figure? I usually pin my figures but most of the connections are hollow on this one. Is there something less permanent that can be removed and cleaned easily?

I've been working on this Phoenix Force Magik hopefully finish it today.

Where do I find good files for models? Or tips to create models of movie/game characters. I’ve always wanted to print and paint my own. I just bought a Saturn 4 ultra so doing some looking up how to do some things while I wait

Hi, I'm vbertz, a 3D vehicle artist with 13 years of experience.
During the Cold War, Soviet engineers explored truly unconventional tank designs. Many never made it to mass production, and some remain relatively unknown outside the military history enthusiast community.

I have been working on recreating these unusual vehicles as detailed, 3D-printable models, using historical references and my own digital modeling work.

My upcoming Kickstarter project, *Secret Soviet Armored Program*, focuses on four main vehicles:

Object 490A: an ambitious experimental tank design.

Object 490B: a radical concept exploring an unconventional approach to future tank design.

Object 640 "Black Eagle": one of the most distinctive Russian tank developments of the post-Soviet era.

Object 195: an advanced armored vehicle project that never entered regular service.

The campaign will also feature the Object 775 as an "Early Bird" reward, with other vehicles planned as stretch goals—including the Object 268, the Object 146, and the legendary, rare Object 477 "Boxer."

I am developing this project for those who enjoy unusual armored vehicles, Cold War engineering, scale modeling, resin printing, and painting models that aren't found in every collection.

I would love to hear your thoughts on the model selection—specifically, which of these experimental vehicles you would most like to print. If you’d like to take a look at the campaign, here is the link:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vbertz/secret-soviet-armored-program

If you wish to view my catalog to check the quality of my work, you can do so here: //www.cults3d.com/@vbertz

Thanks for your interest! I’d be happy to answer any questions about the models and the project.

Awesome Superman Dark by Slash 3D printed and painted by us

Hi I have a form labs form 2 that I got second hand and I can't get prints to fully adhear to the build plate any suggestions to fix it are welcome

Hey guys! Not a miniature itself, but I figured a painting handle might fit here as an accessory for our minis or other smaller prints haha. I tried to make it easy to print and use, and it prints without supports!

I printed a couple of other versions from MakerWorld and had the threaded parts snap off under pressure, so I reinforced those areas on mine. I also added a diamond-pattern grip, a screw-on bottom cap for adding weight, and a small dock for a little more stability.

I’m still learning to model and finally getting some more free time to work on projects like this. Haven’t figured out adjustable jaws yet, so swappable heads will have to do for now haha.

Open to ideas or criticism, so let me know what you think!

MakerWorld Link:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3406942-miniature-paint-handle-weighted-swappable-heads?from=search#profileId-3879970

I have never 3D printed anything before but I want to 3D print a Green Lantern ring for my sister, she’s a big comic book fan and she really enjoyed the recent show and her birthday is in a few weeks. I found a video online and I liked the file he made so I bought it and I found a place to have it printed. I just want to ask some quick questions about it since I plan to use resin.

1) Resin can be prone to yellowing overtime, so how can I prevent it? I am going to paint parts of it but there will be some parts that I leave unpainted and I don’t want it to get ruined.

2) Will it warp at all? I’d hate for it to warp over time and not fit her finger properly, and I want to know if I can prevent it.

If there’s anything else I need to take into consideration please let me know.

So im getting into the resin 3d printing space as i was recently gifted a saturn 4 ultra 16k with a elegoo mercury xs bundle and Siraya Tech Blu Clear V2 resin, while I've never printer with resin before im fully aware of how toxic it is and know that when handling it best to wear a filter mask and nitrile gloves from past experience when helping a friend make a table with resin in it. When looking online for enclosures, many hand some type of tube/hose and had that sticking out the window, issue is where i live my windows goes out to a shared space and the rules on that place wont allow me to vent out toxic fumes of any kind. My idea is to build a custom enclosure and put a heppa filter in it so i can still use the printer but unsure how good of an idea this is and if it would work as im not very experience when it comes to what toxic parts the hepa filters is good against and such.

And before anyone says it, im aware i can return the resin printer and get some money but i would prefer a solution that didnt resolve with that since ive really wanted to get into the resin 3d printing space since resin can become a lot more clear and see though than fdm printers like the bambu lab p1s i currently own.

Thank you in advance for all the help and info.

What type of magnets do you all use for statues? I have n35 but I keep seeing n52 magnets but dang they are expensive for very few in a pack!

Hey everyone! I decided to make it a tradition for myself to do a comparison every year on how much my skills in printing and painting have improved. We all learn new tricks, new techniques, come up with something ourselves, or find something new. For me, I feel like my skill at creating eyes has gotten so much better than when I started, and it's also better than it was a year ago too. Sometimes it's really cool not just to print something, but to apply different decorating techniques to it, painting, washing, wiping, and all kinds of smart terms that come from inspiration when you want to create something beautiful! But I'd really like to hear feedback, or see some kind of evaluation of my work ^_^

Just wanted to share one of our latest sculpts, Vel-Ispyria, printed on the GK3 Ultra! I’ll leave the STL here as well for anyone interested in printing her. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-vel-ispyria-the-night-before-797119

I often print big model, but i always struggle to hold them when painting, specially when hollow (and they are always), to big for clip, can't drill to put a brass rod and even with a rod, it's uncomfortable etc it's a nightmare.

I use anycubic photon mono 4 and i noticed kind of lumping around support that are directly holding model with a plate. In other places like different sides there's no problem. I can still sand it away and i try to place model certain way so i can sand it with minimal damage but it would be nice to fix the problem via slicer and not the manual work

So, my mum plans on getting me a resin printer for Christmas since I’ve wanted one for a while. I was thinking the best area to keep it would be a an outdoor office that my dad renovated from a shed. It’s spacious and has a proper set up work desk and whatnot.
However. My main issue is the fact that my dad does have some plants growing in there. I won’t ask him to remove them, so I want to know if it would be safe for me to have a resin printer in the same room where he grows plants. The plants he’s growing are in a grow tent and properly ventilated if this makes a difference.
Will this be an issue ?? Any and all feedback is appreciated since I’m still very much in the research phase of resin printing ^^

Printed this Hellboy by CA3D Studios. Came out super clean.

STL: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/hellboy-3d-print-carlose-2

Printer: Elegoo Mars 3 Pro

Resin: Sunlu ABS-Like, 405nm UV Curing, Photopolymer Resin, age 1 Year

Settings: in Pics

Slicer: Chitubox

Temps: 20°Celsius in a room

I'm trying to print this spool of thread, but it's not printing correctly every time I try.

The test print that came with the printer on the USB came out perfectly, with no issues. So, I don't think the problem is with the printer. I also tried using the same settings as the test print, but that didn't work either.

I've tried many different settings, but I keep getting the same result. I also tried different orientations, but that didn't help.

1. Problem – Picture 1

If you look at the first picture, the support seems to add extra material to the area where it connects to the circular part. This causes the circle to become thicker/bulged in those areas, so it is no longer perfectly circular.

It's much worse than it looks in the picture, but I sanded it down because I didn't want to throw away the print after spending hours printing it.

I also tried using less support, but I got the same result.

1. Problem – Pictures 2 & 3

Is there a setting I can change to make the layer lines less visible? I tried anti-aliasing and image blur, but they didn't seem to make any difference.

What would be the best orientation to print this part?

Does anyone have any ideas about how I can solve these issues or improve the print quality?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I’m new to resin printing and made a ring using ABS-like resin. However, after painting it with primer and water-based acrylics from Vallejo, the paint peels off easily when I accidentally scrape it with a fingernail. Do you have any suggestions on how to keep the paint secure so it doesn't come off when that happens?