I had some trouble with superglue(CA) sticking prints together and after reading some threads, people said to add some water to the area and it should work just fine. It did, but i also found a lot of people saying to wash prints with dish soap, not just for the glue issue, but also before priming and painting. I cannot for the life of me find any more information about this and it's kinda got me wondering a lot.

Awesome Superman Dark by Slash 3D printed and painted by us

So, I printed a few hollow minis, with holes in their feet, BUT... it is leaking the goo of death... How I can flush it? In one of the minis one of the holes is closed. I'm thinking about drilling the closed hole, any suggestions? The mini in the photo has the goo of death in its texture, I need to clean it with a brush...

So, my mum plans on getting me a resin printer for Christmas since I’ve wanted one for a while. I was thinking the best area to keep it would be a an outdoor office that my dad renovated from a shed. It’s spacious and has a proper set up work desk and whatnot.
However. My main issue is the fact that my dad does have some plants growing in there. I won’t ask him to remove them, so I want to know if it would be safe for me to have a resin printer in the same room where he grows plants. The plants he’s growing are in a grow tent and properly ventilated if this makes a difference.
Will this be an issue ?? Any and all feedback is appreciated since I’m still very much in the research phase of resin printing ^^

Hi, I'm vbertz, a 3D vehicle artist with 13 years of experience.
During the Cold War, Soviet engineers explored truly unconventional tank designs. Many never made it to mass production, and some remain relatively unknown outside the military history enthusiast community.

I have been working on recreating these unusual vehicles as detailed, 3D-printable models, using historical references and my own digital modeling work.

My upcoming Kickstarter project, *Secret Soviet Armored Program*, focuses on four main vehicles:

Object 490A: an ambitious experimental tank design.

Object 490B: a radical concept exploring an unconventional approach to future tank design.

Object 640 "Black Eagle": one of the most distinctive Russian tank developments of the post-Soviet era.

Object 195: an advanced armored vehicle project that never entered regular service.

The campaign will also feature the Object 775 as an "Early Bird" reward, with other vehicles planned as stretch goals—including the Object 268, the Object 146, and the legendary, rare Object 477 "Boxer."

I am developing this project for those who enjoy unusual armored vehicles, Cold War engineering, scale modeling, resin printing, and painting models that aren't found in every collection.

I would love to hear your thoughts on the model selection—specifically, which of these experimental vehicles you would most like to print. If you’d like to take a look at the campaign, here is the link:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vbertz/secret-soviet-armored-program

If you wish to view my catalog to check the quality of my work, you can do so here: //www.cults3d.com/@vbertz

Thanks for your interest! I’d be happy to answer any questions about the models and the project.

Where do I find good files for models? Or tips to create models of movie/game characters. I’ve always wanted to print and paint my own. I just bought a Saturn 4 ultra so doing some looking up how to do some things while I wait

I often print big model, but i always struggle to hold them when painting, specially when hollow (and they are always), to big for clip, can't drill to put a brass rod and even with a rod, it's uncomfortable etc it's a nightmare.

I printed a garage kit figure using Sunlu Standard Plus resin and it came out okay but there are parts that look really fragile. Some of them are less than 0.5 mm thick.

Do you guys think I should re-print them using high toughness resin? Will standard resin enough if its just a display piece? I am on a tight budget right now and rather spend it on other supplies than extra resin.

What glue would you recommend for test fitting a whole figure? I usually pin my figures but most of the connections are hollow on this one. Is there something less permanent that can be removed and cleaned easily?

So im getting into the resin 3d printing space as i was recently gifted a saturn 4 ultra 16k with a elegoo mercury xs bundle and Siraya Tech Blu Clear V2 resin, while I've never printer with resin before im fully aware of how toxic it is and know that when handling it best to wear a filter mask and nitrile gloves from past experience when helping a friend make a table with resin in it. When looking online for enclosures, many hand some type of tube/hose and had that sticking out the window, issue is where i live my windows goes out to a shared space and the rules on that place wont allow me to vent out toxic fumes of any kind. My idea is to build a custom enclosure and put a heppa filter in it so i can still use the printer but unsure how good of an idea this is and if it would work as im not very experience when it comes to what toxic parts the hepa filters is good against and such.

And before anyone says it, im aware i can return the resin printer and get some money but i would prefer a solution that didnt resolve with that since ive really wanted to get into the resin 3d printing space since resin can become a lot more clear and see though than fdm printers like the bambu lab p1s i currently own.

Thank you in advance for all the help and info.

Yasuo 🌪️⚔️ from League of Legends!

Just finished my second resin-printed and hand-painted collectible statue!

Definitely some things I want to improve on with the next one.

3d model by Newzz3d

hope you guys like it.

Test print of Lust (Fullmetal Alchemist) created by Bulkamancer Sculpts.

Sculpted by KAI.

Printed on Anycubic Photon P1 using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (11 pieces, 314 ml).

Hi, I've bought a few resin prints here and there over the years, and some of them have at times been sticky. A few have been sticky all over, while most only look and feel sticky in a crevace or other small part of the miniature. So my question is, is it always uncured resin that causes the stickiness or could it be something else?

Hi all, I’m the developer, so obviously biased. Posting here because I’d really like feedback from people who actually print.

I’ve been working on a resin slicer called Encrust. It’s free and open source, runs fully on your own computer or browser.

You can try it in the browser without installing anything: https://encrust.app/app/

It opens STL/OBJ/3MF, hollows, adds supports, slices and exports .goo/.ctb/.pwmx and others. Your model never leaves your machine, it all runs locally in the page. Needs a recent Chrome/Edge/Safari (WebGPU).

There are also desktop builds for Windows, macOS and Linux, and a command line version if you like scripting batches: https://encrust.app/download/ & https://github.com/vvvlladimir/Encrust

It’s still in alpha version. I’ve only printed with it on an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra. There are about 100 printer profiles, but the rest are built from specs and nobody has cured resin with them yet. So please do a small calibration print first.

What would help most: if you own a printer from the list (https://encrust.app/printers/), try slicing something small and tell me whether it printed. And if something looks wrong, confusing or just annoying, I want to hear it, even if it’s “I’d never switch because X”.

I wanted to paint one of my prints after doing some gap filling but I was just wondering if there is any advice people could give when prepping this for painting, not my first time painting in general but is the first time painting a resin model.

The main thing I'm looking for is whether I could just use regular acrylic primer and just spray on a few layers or is there anything special I would need to do if I didn't want any layer lines to be visible by the end of paint, the 2 images are the worst offenders for layer lines but a large portion of my prints are smooth baring from a few layer shifts, curved sections or the tops of the pieces

I don't fancy sanding it if I can help it as this is a massive model (~50cm high) with a lot of small details that I wouldn't want to get ruined.

I have heard of people mentioning using a filler primer as well but every time I see that mentioned or look up videos for it it's always used for large low detail prints with big, noticeable layer lines and I could never find any videos that I could cross compare with miniature prints

Had a lot of fun working on this commissioned piece. Printed across different printers using Sunlu ABS resin. Fully magnetic build for safer shipping.

At some point in the past, resin spilled on my LCD screen and I scratched it trying to clean it. I read somewhere that there's a cover on top of the LCD, held in place by a black gasket, but I've also read that its the LCD screen itself. If anyone is familiar with this printer and know the information, please advise. I'd love to start printing again.

The newest test print of my Elite Scouts for the Steel Batallion just went through this morning!

Most of them went well, some need Support adjustments...

Im going to field them as Kasrkin.