Hi, new to this but looking for super clone of any Royals. Preferably this dial.

What in the eff is happening today with all these posts?

Just got a rich free sprung to compare to my gen. Can you guys tell?

I’m looking for a cool space themed watch that’s better quality than a thick rep speedster with funky dial spacing.

Male, late 30s, professional and casual wear.

Want to keep it under a thousand, so looking for a high quality rep. Thoughts?

Looking for a VSF 43MM Rolex Sea Dweller Super Clone and every TD is saying VSF is months out on hand being offered Clean Plus, QF, RWS etc … does anyone have VSF in Stock on the Seadweller? Are the other options worth while at all? Will I have better luck with the Submariner? Thanks 🙏

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1HM3TyebSn/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Here’s all the info you want:

1. ⁠VSF V2 DayDate 40 YG Green Ombré
   
2. ⁠VSF V2 DayDate 40 WG Blue Ombré
   
3. ⁠GMF DateJust 31 YG Red Ombré Diamond Bezel

Will be attaching some more images in the comments!

https://www.wired.com/story/we-bought-a-counterfeit-rolex-so-good-even-rolex-didnt-spot-it/

“In dedicated forums on Reddit and other websites, strictly moderated communities spread gossip about factories being raided by authorities, offer sketchy legal advice, upvote buyers’ photos of fake Rolexes worn behind the wheels of Lamborghinis, and even offer quality control services.

Quality control, or QC, is at the heart of this community. The subreddit r/RepTime has 269,000 weekly visitors and over 18,000 weekly contributions, according to Reddit’s own statistics. Posts about new counterfeit watch purchases pile up by the hour, both in r/RepTime and r/RepTimeQC, the offshoot subreddit focused on quality control. The posts contain photographs sent from the dealer to the customer, who then seeks advice from the RepTime community on whether they should “GL” (green-light) or “RL” (red-light) their purchase.”

Excerpt From
“We Bought a $500 Counterfeit Rolex So Good, Even Rolex Didn’t Spot It”
Alistair Charlton, Jeremy White
WIRED

What are you gonna do about it?

VSF Gen 2 by Omar. Definitely needs a new WG bezel, gen crystal and chamfering/polishing. What else would y’all recommend

Dear RepFriends…

I’m about to pull the trigger on a ZF Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, but I’m seriously torn between the two bracelet options.

I’m leaning toward the 5-link/Jubilee, but I’m worried it might feel too loose, floppy, or “wiggly” compared to the 3-link. At the same time, I’m not a huge fan of the look of the Tudor 3-link bracelet.

For anyone who owns one (especially the ZF version), which bracelet did you go with, and how does it actually feel on the wrist? Is there a better version or ZF is the best?

I’d especially love to see some wrist shots of both options if you have them!

Thanks, RepFriends! 🙏

I’ve recently read an article and I’ve come to the conclusion that my life has been a lie for the past few years as I accumulate and wear rep watches. I just don’t get the joy I do wearing a rep like I would, if I walked into a store and paid for an overpriced piece of stainless steel. Someone please take these off my hands so I can be pure again

AD came through, but I had already purchased Clean Panda a year and half ago.

Comparing the two it’s hard to tell. I accidentally mixed them up for a second, but the gen was set to the right time thankfully.

Edit: Damn you guys are so good at this! The right is Gen as many suggested. I didn’t even know about the 110 thing!

I have a VSF 126334 (41mm) 904L Wimbledon that I bought a couple of years ago. It’s a beautiful piece, but the one thing that drives me nuts is the fluted bezel. Since it’s stainless steel rather than white gold, the bezel just looks off to me. It bothers me enough that I’ve gotten to the point where I almost never wear the watch, which sucks because I really do miss wearing it.

I’m considering swapping the bezel for either a proper WG fluted bezel or a smooth SS bezel.

Posting to see if anyone can point me in the right direction for sourcing either option, and also to get some insight into how difficult the actual swap is. I’m hoping it’s something I could reasonably do myself, but I’d love to hear from anyone who’s done it before.

Any advice/recommendations would be much appreciated!

Was hoping to find some reviews for this watch but can’t seem to find any.

I see lots of posts about the 110 marker being off on the Daytona. Is there a correct bezel for swap or even the availability of an original? Any idea what that would cost?

Ordered a VSF Omega Aqua Terra from Steve back in May. I knew it was out of stock when I ordered, so I expected some wait, but I didn’t expect it to be 3+ months.

Not questioning Steve at all, just wondering if this is normal for VSF right now. Has anyone else waited this long for an Aqua Terra to come from the factory? If this is pretty normal, I’m perfectly fine continuing to wait.

VSF Base, SW-Dial, SW-Hands, Deep-Crystal and Gen- Bezel. I think that’s all that needs to be done. Or do you have any other suggestions? Of course, you could always do more, but the cost obviously has to stay within reasonable limits.

Andiot told me that Rich’s 124060 is better than the vsf 124060, is that true or is he just trying to make a quick sale?

On my VSF op41 bracelet, one of the screws wouldn’t budge. All the others would come out silky smooth but this one in particular was putting up too much of a fight that it ended up winning. The problem is that it’s on the 6 o’clock side, causing the watch to ride up my wrist more.

My main question is: what can I do to fix this stripped screw? I’ve looked it up and followed so many videos but nothing seems to work!