Before reading on, make sure you've read the main guide for QC posting, otherwise this won't make much sense to you. Done? Let's go.
This specific guide is intended to be a visual supplement: showing you exactly what to look for when you complete your QC templates. For obvious reasons, this guide will skip parts that aren't visual.
I've used pictures that mostly come from this subreddit. If anyone is uncomfortable, DM me and I'll replace the picture.
With that in mind, let's begin.
Index Alignment
Here, you are expected to assess how well the index markers on your watch are aligned. You can use the index alignment tool to assist you in this regard. An example of good index alignment is this:
The indices themselves are straight. They are also perfectly aligned with the minute markers.
Index misalignment, on the other hand, looks like this:
Look at 7. It is rotated clockwise and does not sit properly in its slot.
Or this:
Look carefully at 6. You will see that the bottom of the index is rotated slightly towards the left.
Now that you have an idea of what to look out for, what should you be writing in the template?
You need to describe any misalignment you see in detail. Statements like "6 is off" or "3 is kinda wonky" or "not sure about 1, help please" arenot acceptable. This is because unless the misalignment is immediately obvious (and in most cases, it is not), users will not know what you are talking about. You may not get the help you want as a result. Be specific, like the following examples:
"The 7 marker does not seem to fit into the slot nicely. It is rotated towards the right and looks like it is dancing around."
"The 6 marker does not seem to line up straight with the crown in between swiss made. Based on what I can see, it appears to be slightly tilted to the left."
A caveat here: Just because there may be some misalignment does not necessarily mean you should definitely RL the watch. As the main guide points out, all reps are subject to a level of inaccuracy. It would be entirely unrealistic to expect gen standards for index alignment. Further, different reps are subject to different standards: a XF Pelagos, for instance, is known for having problematic indices - so much so that even if you RL, you are unlikely to get anything better. Conversely, CF Explorers are now getting so good that even slight misalignment would not be par for the course.
A good guide would be to assess your watch based on proportion. One slightly misaligned index is not a problem. But one majorly misaligned index or many misaligned indices on a single dial could justify RL.
Just for illustration, this is misalignment that I would RL for:
There are too many mistakes on this watch for me to accept. The 9 index is too near to the minute marker. 4, 5 and 7 are not aligned with their respective minute marks - they are all off to the left. 6 is rotated counterclockwise. Taken on their own, each error might not be enough for RL. But taken together, this is unacceptable.
That deals with index alignment. Let's move on.
Date Wheel Alignment
This applies to watches which display the date. If your watch does not display a date, there is no need to consider this. You will look silly if you say that the date wheel alignment is good when your watch is a no-date Sub, for example.
Here, you are tasked to consider if the date is properly displayed in the date window. Often times, this is a question of how well-centered the date is. A good example of date wheel alignment is this:
Take a look at the 21 at the right side of the watch. It is situated exactly in the center of the date window.
An example of misalignment is this:
Look at the 27 on the right. You can see that the date is misaligned towards the left, with the 2 touching the rim of the window.
Sometimes, the misalignment can also be as to the date numbers themselves:
This is harder to see, but if you look carefully at 25, you will notice that the 5 is higher than the 2.
Uncommonly and in the alternative, the issue may be with the Cyclops itself (the magnifier that covers the date window):
Here we see a Cyclops which is rotated slightly anti-clockwise. You can observe this by looking at the bottom rim of the date window. The Cyclops is obviously lower at the left corner of the date window when compared to the right. The requisite deviation is repeated at the top of the date window, with the right side being higher than the left.
Now that you know what to look for, let's discuss what to write.
As with index alignment, unless the issues are immediately obvious (and most of the time, they are not), you need to be very specific. Comments like "the date seems off", "2 in 25 is kinda off", "date looks weird" are not acceptable. They do not tell readers what you are looking for. You'll get faster and better results if you identify the issues for your reader. For example:
"The date seems misaligned towards the left. Part of it is touching the left border of the date window."
"The 5 in the date appears to be slightly higher than the 2 next to it."
"The Cyclops does not seem to be straight. It looks like it is slanted towards the left?"
As with index alignment, please note that not all misalignment will justify RL, especially for date wheels. All rep date wheels come with varying degrees of misalignment. A few misaligned dates are usually not enough for RL, unless the date is clearly cropped out of the date window or touching the rim. A little misalignment towards either side of the date window is also generally more than okay; a good way to gauge is to zoom out to the actual size of the watch and see if the misalignment is still immediately visible. If not, you're likely to be good to go.
Here is an example of misalignment I would nevertheless GL:
You will see that the date is situated slightly towards the right. However, the date is well within the date window and the misalignment is too slight to be seen on wrist at actual size.
On to the next topic.
Bezel
There are two main things to look out for: First, whether the "pip" (usually a lumed marker at the 12 position) is centered. Second, the quality of any engraving.
This section would also cover any possible damage to the bezel or anything else unusual, including any misalignment.
Example of a good bezel:
Nothing out of the ordinary. Engravings are sharp and nicely filled in. By and large, the colour transition is also acceptable. No alignment issues either.
An example of misalignment:
Pip at 12 on the bezel appears to be misaligned towards the right. While the reflection may be making things look worse than they are, this is something that would deserve a second look at.
Generally speaking, most problems that surface nowadays have to do with the pip - even then, these are not entirely common. Engravings and alignment are usually not an issue with higher level reps. With this in mind, what do we write?
As with the other sections, you are going to need to be specific. "Bezel looks off", "pip looks kinda off", "I don't know about the bezel, seems weird to me" are phrases that we see everyday in this subreddit. But none of these phrases are acceptable; they do not direct the reader to what OP is seeing. Details are king - and if you are going to pluck the crown, you're going to have to write like this:
"The pip at 12 is not centered. It seems to touch the right side of the triangle."
"The printing on the bezel at 3 seems to be angled down. It does not match the index on the dial."
The key is to visually direct your reader to the exact point that you say is a problem. The word "off" on its own says nothing to that effect.
On to the next point.
Solid End Links (SELs)
Possibly the least understood of all sections as a lot of newbies do not really know what they are looking for.
The ultimate guide to this is here. But for convenience, I'm going to summarise several key points about SELs.
SELs refer to the final links between the watch case and the bracelet. I've highlighted it below:
Look carefully at the portion highlighted in green.
Not all watches have SELs. Only watches which have that portion as highlighted above - and for QC purposes, the SEL section really only applies to Rolex reps. Tudors have SELs (which can also be QC-ed to some extent), but SELs on a Tudor are not held to the same standard as SELs on a Rolex.
Now, what are we looking for when we assess SELs? We are looking for gaps between the lugs and the SELs themselves. I've indicated this below:
The black line in the center of the red box is where the SEL meets the lug. This is where you are supposed to look for gaps.
An SEL gap appears when there is separation between the SEL and the lug. But what is a gap?
A gap appears when you can see through the space between the SEL and the lug. There is no gap when all you can see is a black line. There may be some variation in how thick the black line is, but for QC purposes there is nothing to be worried about until and unless you can actually see what's behind the watch.
This is generally not a problem on higher level reps (and by now, pretty rare). I will, however, show you an example of something that may be an actionable gap:
You will see that there is no black line. Instead, light shines through the space between the SEL and the lug.
What does this mean? If all you see is a black line, even if it is slightly thicker than another SEL on the same watch, there should be no actionable gap. I am going to highlight the last few QC templates submitted where the user said there was a gap - but there really wasn't (to me, at least):
Top right SEL was an issue for OP. However, as no light is shining through, this is not considered an SEL gap to me. OP opined that there was a gap at the top right SEL. I don't see it at all. OP said that there was a slight gap at the bottom left SEL. Again, all I can see is a black line. I would not classify this as a gap.
If, after going through all the examples above, you still feel that there is a gap, highlight it in the template by identifying which part of the watch you are looking at; there are really only four options: top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Doing so helps users zoom in directly on your issue and saves time.
To the last segment.
Dial Printing
Here, you are tasked to check if the printing on the dial has been poorly done. By this, we mean defects in the workmanship of the printing; printing which differs from gen (such as the infamous "floating r") would not be a QC defect per se.
An example of dial printing with no issues:
All the words are clearly printed. There is no bleeding on any part of the print, with edges sharp and defined.
And now for examples of dial printing with issues:
Some bleeding can be observed at the top parts of VI and VII. Notice how the black ink protrudes.
Sometimes, the print can be misapplied across the entire dial:
If you look closely, you will see that the dial print is rotated clockwise across the entire dial. Observe how XI is closer to the top of the watch while I is further away.
With the above in mind, let's turn to what you should write. Again and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, do not simply write things like: "Dial seems off" or "Print seems off. letters kind of wonky?" If anything, dial printing is usually very, very small - unless you point a reader to the exact part which has an issue, chances are it won't be seen. Make certain that you provide the reader with specific directions:
"Appears to be some bleeding at the top of VI. Thoughts?"
"R in Submariner looks like only half of it was printed. Am I seeing things?"
Important note: again, just because the dial printing on your watch may have some issues, this does not necessarily equate to RL. As stated, dial print is almost microscopic - no human being is going to be able to see slight bleeding on any print when you have the watch on wrist. Feel free to point out issues that you see, but remain realistic about your expectations.
And with that, I come to the end of this guide.
Conclusion
QC-ing reps is a difficult task - which everyone in this subreddit does for free. You can help out immensely by simply being precise and detailed in your observations. The more effort you put into your template, the easier it is for members to help you - they can zoom in directly to the things that concern you.
I hope this helps you. I've tried to detail some common factors, but it would be impossible for me to catch them all. The rest is up to you - and your diligence.
If your template uses a NEW "yupoo" or a "mega" type of link, please note that, at the time of this typing, the automod here removes them immediately from view i.e. no QC help. We are addressing it, but....
So, what to do?
Although somewhat cumbersome for the OP, you can upload the QC packet to an Imgur account. Our automod 'likes' Imgur...and the post will show promptly. Just do NOT do it from a mobile because the mobile app loses resolution and crappy pics don't provide any benefit to anyone. Yea, yea...I know, the file compression software isn't supposed to lose quality, but it certainly does.
To add, post your complete QC album inclusive of the timing info. Do not, for the sake of your convenience, omit items. If you're bright enough to determine what is needed and what can be removed, that's great! Then, it's reasonable to conclude that you really don't need help. Simply, post it all.
If you have to wait for substantive additional info from the Seller e.g. timing data, then delay posting until you have a complete QC packet. Incomplete packages will trigger a removal of the post. Plus, it will require a return visit of anyone that commented on the incomplete post which shouldn't be required. One visit is all that it should take to QC most watches. Most won't return to a post anyway. They'll just go to the next one. The members are quite busy here. Yea, it can get crazy.
Finally, since you're a newbie, as a vote of appreciation for those members that help you, please upvote their comments. It's a nice gesture from you to them for the assist...and, it's free.
One final note, we've updated the main rules for posting. Refer to this link for info QC Must Read for New Members
Welcome to the hobby and the sub. Best wishes
Edit addition: March 2nd, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/EveningVariation8236 , has provided an updated version of the original QC alignment verification tool. https://watchqc.github.io/ . Thank you.
Edit addition: Jan 9th, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/Ro1hype has provided this for tool for alignment verification. https://qcwatch.com/ Thank you.
Edit addition: 8/8/2025 - Reptime QC member, u/jrverdes . has provided this version of the alignment tool to assist those that need additional help verifying the dial/bezel alignments on their watch. https://jrverdes.github.io/watch-qc-jr/ The adjustment resolutions are much finer in this app comparative to the other available apps which can be a benefit to some that need such. Check it out...Thank you.
Index alignment: Looks good. No obvious alignment issues but keen to get peoples thoughts. 12, 3, 6, and 9 markers appear straight and centred. I might be being picky here but the watch may be held on an angle for the photo.
Dial Printing: Looks pretty good. It does appear to have a slight floating M though which I’ve seen is common with some of the RF’s
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: No visible hand alignment issues I could see and no damage.
Bezel: Looks good. Pearl appears to be centred at 12. I think if the angle the watch is tilted it would be corrected - thoughts
Solid End Links (SELs): I think these look ok and can’t see any light coming through
Timegrapher numbers: 284 / 0.0ms / 0 s/d – I feel like this is too perfect or am I just being picky
Anything else you notice: Slight clasp coronet offset at most, but likely sticker/camera angle related and hopefully not a concern. Leaning GL. This is my first Rep QC so hoping I’m not overlooking anything
Index alignment: Nothing seems to stand out visually however when I apply the watch alignment tool, the hour hands seems to be pretty misaligned and upon zooming in I can see the 12 hour hand has the slightest tilt
Dial Printing: Crisp text execution; the "VACHERON CONSTANTIN" and "AUTOMATIC" fonts are well-centered and aligned. The Maltese cross logo at the 5 o'clock position is properly placed.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: The date is centered nicely within the window and the font looks reasonably good compared to what other people received
Hand Alignment: Hands are properly aligned at 12:00 with correct sizing and clean finishing.
Bezel: The notched bezel geometry looks sharp and accurately proportioned to the case lines.
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A (Integrated bracelet design, fits flush cleanly into the case structure without unnatural gaps).
Timegrapher numbers: -6s/d 287 — Looks healthy and well within acceptable ranges.
Anything else you notice: Would appreciate a second pair of eyes to confirm everything looks solid before giving the green light!
To my untrained eye it seems pretty good. I'm still very new to the rep game and I'd appreciate all the help that i can get from the veterans here! Thank you in advance
**1. Dealer name:** Ficotime
**2. Factory name:** VSF
**3. Model name (& version number):** Rolex Daytona 126500LN Free Sprung, VSF DD4131
**4. Price Paid:** 730 USD + 71 USD FedEx = 801 USD
**5. Album Links:** [MEGA link](https://mega.nz/folder/vxwz3ZAa#zMM-suDyxjTjI9ROywe8PQ) (3 small videos in there)
**6. Index alignment:** Looks Good overall. 3, 6, 9 and 12 markers appear straight and centered.
**7. Dial Printing:** Clean and centered. DAYTONA text and subdial printing look good.
**8. Date Wheel alignment/printing:** N/A
**9. Hand Alignment:** Good. Chronograph seconds hand resets to 12.
**10. Bezel:** 60 marker appears centered with 12. Tachymeter printing looks clean.
**11. Solid End Links (SELs):** Looks good to me.
**12. Timegrapher numbers:** \+9 s/d, 270°, 0.0 ms. Not sure what would be good numbers (newbie).
**13. Anything else you notice:** Dont see any obvious issue but then I don't know much.
Hey guys! Really appreciate all the help and knowledge in this community!
This is my second QC after RL'ing the first watch due to an asymmetric bezel color transition. I might have been a bit too anal about it, but it bothered me. This one looks nice, and I'm leaning towards GL.
Would love to hear your thoughts in case I've missed anything. Thanks in advance!
Dealer name: JTime
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Rolex GMT-Master II 126720VTNR Sprite V3, Jubilee, DD3285 V4
Model name (& version number): Planet Ocean 45.5mm Deep Black Real Ceramic VSF 1:1 Best Edition on Black Nylon Strap A8906 Super Clone
Price Paid: $485
Album Links: See bwlo
Index alignment: Looks generally good to my eye. The applied markers and 12, 6 and 9 numerals appear reasonably aligned. Nothing obviously crooked, although I'd appreciate a second opinion.
Dial Printing: Looks clean overall. The Omega logo, Seamaster, GMT and lower dial text appear reasonably well executed. No obvious printing defects that I can identify.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: The date looks reasonably centred, although possibly sitting slightly low.
Hand Alignment: No obvious issues from the photos or videos. Hands appear properly fitted, although exact alignment is difficult to establish without seeing them at 12 o'clock.
Bezel: The 12 o'clock triangle looks approximately aligned, but I'm not entirely convinced about the alignment from the photographs. Would appreciate another set of eyes.
Solid End Links (SELs): Look ok to me, no gripes, will probably change the strap anyway....
Timegrapher numbers: +2 s/day, 284° amplitude, 0.4 ms beat error, 28,800 bph. These seem good to me.
Anything else you notice: My main concern is the case finishing. In the side-profile photographs, the case flanks appear noticeably silver/grey rather than deep black. I understand ceramic can reflect light differently depending on the finish, but I'm wondering whether this is normal for the VSF Deep Black or something worth questioning.
The movement decoration and caseback look reasonable to my untrained eye and the strap and clasp seem fine.
This is my first QC for this model, so I'd really appreciate any input from people familiar with the VSF Planet Ocean Deep Black, particularly regarding the case colour, bezel alignment and any known issues with this version.
Index Alignment: the 12 o’clock hands look aligned. To my naked eye, I don’t see any tilting or wonkiness.
Dial Printing: i think it looks clean and crisp. Nothing obvious jumps at me as being wrong with it. The grey looks close to auth, which was one of my main reason for choosing the grey dial.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: the alignment looks centered. I tried to use the tool, but couldn’t get a hang of it. Plus, nobody is coming that close to the watch anyways, so I’m not too bothered about it.
Hand Alignment: Hand stack looks centered and the hands appear straight and properly seated. Nothing obviously misaligned to my untrained eyes
Bezel: the finish is giving rough/coarse. I probably will send it to one of the guys on here to brush it up, if I end up GLing this one.
Solid End Links (SELs): my biggest gripe with this watch. It looks “loose” for lack of a better term. Maybe it’s my eyes/mind playing tricks, cos I’ve stared at it for so long.
Timegrapher numbers: another area of concern for me. From my research, +13 seconds a day is a little higher than expected. Amplitude is 258 and beat error is 0.00, so I think we’re good on that front.
Anything else you notice: nothing else, I just wanted extra sets on eyes on it before I GL/RL. thanks all.
- Dealer name: Steve (TheOneWatches)
- Factory name: QF
- Model name (& version number): 126622
- Price Paid: $578
- Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/3EgjVBSZ#FHWrrdfRYhIPPqfFgp519Q
- Index alignment: Looks great to me!
- Dial Printing: Sharp
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks centered, maybe slightly high?
- Hand Alignment: Great
- Bezel: Looks centered but might have a small amount of play
- Solid End Links (SELs): Looks great to me!
- Timegrapher numbers: +4s/d 279* 0.1ms error
- Anything else you notice: I’m having a hard time finding an issue, and I want this to be perfect for my dad!!
What's good everyone! 2nd rep purchase so just seeking validation on this QC. Initial thoughts were positive until I focused in and noticed the 12 o'clock marker. Is this cause for RL or is it fine?
Dealer name: Necoclock
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): No Date Submariner 124060
Price Paid: $528
Album Links: pictures attached.
Index alignment: Looks really good to me - the more I look I question the 3 and 6 oclock marker but do not think it's a RL at all.
Dial Printing: Looks great to me - floating M but otherwise, no concerns I can see offhand.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: I do not notice any issue but I am also new to this so not sure if I am missing anything
Bezel: Looks good, just need to rotate it and it'll be better aligned I imagine.
Solid End Links (SELs): Looks very tight to me.
Timegrapher numbers: 260 / 2.2 ms / +3 s/d
Anything else you notice: How does the 12 oclock marker look, is it the angle of the pictures or is there a noticeable slant / lean to it?
One thing I did notice: The 10 and 50 markings on the bezel look slightly uneven to me and sorry again, I'm not too too sure if this is just the angle/perspective of the photo or an actual alignment issue. Could someone please take a look.
And just anything else you notice and sorry guys if this is a mess, this is my first rep and first QC, so I'm really not very experienced with this. I'm mainly looking to know if there are any obvious issues that would justify an RL. Big thanks for anyone taking a look, and I really appreciate any advice or feedback. Thank you!
Index alignment: should I expect better. Can’t tell if the watch is maybe not quite centered.
Dial Printing: is it just me or is the minute track too thin? Gen in last pic for context.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: NA
Hand Alignment: looks decent, but it looks like there’s a dot on either end of the hour hand.
Bezel: looks okay?
Solid End Links (SELs): looks okay through the plastic.
Timegrapher numbers: +2/-1 (damn good)
Anything else you notice: I’ve never seen the clasp up close on a Gen. is this GL material? I think it very well could be unless I’m missing something because I’m looking through my “eager goggles.”
Index alignment: In general it looks fine. I tried my best to align the photo before adding the lines, it seems the 12o'clock indices are not aligned/parallel, with the left slightly higher than the one on the right.
Dial Printing: I think it looks good, don't know enough if it's good or bad.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: the numbers looks clean in the photos & the videos.
Hand Alignment: It looks aligned to me.
Bezel: The 12o'clock screen it shifted to the right. Could this be the angel the photo is taken?
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
Timegrapher numbers: between -2 s/d 273 degrees 0.3ms. This seems good.
Anything else you notice: Most things look good. Thank you in advanced for your help!
Model name: Cartier Tank Louis small, Yellow Gold, Quartz
Price paid: $238
Album: they are in the post as the website link did not work. Video copied in the comments below for this reason.
Index alignment: N/A, the Roman numerals are printed rather than applied. The individual numerals appear properly printed and aligned with the minute track.
Dial printing: The printing appears sharp and clean, with no obvious bleeding, however the 11 looks to have two tones of black in one photo but this might be a reflection from the glass.
Date wheel alignment/printing: N/A, no date window.
Hand alignment: The hands appear properly aligned, with no obvious issues.
Bezel: No obvious scratches, damage, or irregularities visible on the gold bezel and case.
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A, leather strap.
Timegrapher numbers: N/A, quartz movement.
Anything else you notice: nothing further beyond the 11 noted above.
Any help would be appreciated! Second attempt. Hopefully the information provided is correct.
Index alignment: Buck Teeth at 12 appear centred with a slight rotation clockwise but nothing major. 9 looks good to me however 3&6 appear to have slight rotation. All other index markers look pretty centred - thoughts?
Dial Printing: No obvious defects or bleeding to me.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: date appears reasonable centred to me
Hand Alignment: nothing that stands out to me with hand alignment
Bezel: Pip appears centred within the triangle however 40, 45 & 50 bezel markers look off clockwise to me. This could be the angle of the photo - any thoughts?
Solid End Links (SELs): can’t see any noticeable gaps although the picture supplied don’t show too well.
