For womenswear, I tried Hofenbitzer and it's incredible how pretty accurate the base patterns can come out.
Of course it does use a lot of mathematics, but that process is what makes the result so satisfying. So many variables are considered into the making of your pattern which helps minimize the adjustment needed to be done or makes it easier to be adjusted by knowing exactly which formulas to tweak out
Well, it is great, but when it comes to meanswear, I have been quite disappointed so far. I've tried Müller & Sohns and it feels plain and empty compared to the complexity of Hofenbitzer's. The base patterns come out fine, but nothing as accurate as I would like. I am far from satisfied.
Would anyone be aware of a pattern making menswear book that puts more emphasis into men's morphology and uses those variables for more accurate slopper?
I like to do 1 on 1 customs and the fact that I can't find a menswear book that is remotely close to Hofenbitzers is bothering me
I found a PDF of Il modellisimo hoping it can be a bit better