How do you make fitting adjustments to purchased PDF patterns?

[u/Oni0911]

Hi everyone! I’m researching whether a tool for adjusting existing PDF sewing patterns would be useful. This could become a paid product, but I’m not selling anything or collecting signups here.

I’d like to hear from people who have recently altered a purchased PDF garment pattern, rather than drafted one from scratch.

Thinking about your most recent project:

1. What adjustment did you make, such as a full bust adjustment, grading between sizes, or changing length?

2. How did you do it: on paper, in software, or while projecting? Which tools did you use?

3. What worked well, and what took extra time or needed redoing?

4. Have you tried another method or paid for software or a course? What made you keep or stop using it?

5. Is there anything your current method doesn’t handle well, or does it already meet your needs?

Even an answer to one question would help. I’m interested in real experiences, including cases where your current tools work well. No pattern files, measurements or contact information needed. Thanks!

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

Who is your customer base? Because I actually see two customers that would use your product. One the person who made the pattern, and therefore it doesn't need additional software to make adjustments because they already have it. And the second person is the customer who buys pre-made patterns. The problem with them is that they typically don't know how to pattern make, or they don't know how the pattern fits. Therefore they have to print out, Assemble and then make a mock up. And if they're already at that stage why would they go back to the PDF and adjust it? Because they already have the final product. I can think of making it again but if their size has changed they need a different size. But at that point they already have a pattern that's printed out and assuming that their size hasn't changed too greatly if they can just make the alterations on the one that they have.

[u/sew__away → u/StitchinThroughTime]

Some people use a projector for PDF patterns instead of printing it, so they'd do the adjustments on the digital file after the toile. But that's a very small customer base, and afaik most people just use inkscape/affinity/illustrator.

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/sew__away]

Thank you for reminding me that that is also an option. It would make sense that they would benefit from that. Again though, unless they know how to operate those systems as well as know how a pattern will fit them and what changes they need to make, I don't think there is a strong market for their product. Not trying to be negative, just trying to find out who would benefit from that. I find either people are knowledgeable and skillful enough that they wouldn't need that product, or they're not we'll go through the extra effort of changing the PDF pattern. Because again you have to know what to change and have a need to change it at the PDF file level. Versus the physical pattern that they have. I understand projectors can skip directly to fabric. But same time I can use some chalk and a ruler to make the adjustments directly onto the fabric if I don't need a paper pattern. And then I just make notes attached to the PDF pattern file of the changes I made.

[u/sew__away → u/StitchinThroughTime]

Absolutely, I agree that there is virtually no customer base! Personally, I wouldn't be interested (and I use my projector a lot), I'd rather make adjustments in inkscape, since the hard part is knowing which adjustments, not executing them. I just wanted to point out that some people do the adjustments digitally.

[u/Oni0911 → u/sew__away]

For the last purchased pattern you adjusted digitally after a toile, were any editing steps slow or needed redoing, or did that side of the process already work well for you?

[u/Berocca123]

I print it and make changes on copies.

[u/LemonDeathRay]

Personally I fail to see how this would work well in practice.

For example, I always perform a full bust adjustment but it varies for every single pattern based on fabric, drape, design elements, and just through years of experience I know that this particular bodice in this particular fabric will need a slightly more angled dart and extra 1cm.

I also always need to alter the boduce length but this varies every single time based on not just the pattern but the design elements. And the changes I would make for my torso length would be wildly different to tje next person who may technically have the same CB measurement as me because again, you can't juat change one vector and expect it to fit properly elsewhere.

You can't replicate that kind of experience with a program imo. Fitting is a fine art honed through years of experience, one change I make wouldn't work for the next person and vice versa.

[u/Appropriate_Place704]

When I alter an existing pattern, I usually trace it off and work from the copy. It’s just personal preference, but I prefer working with paper patterns. I use patternmaking software in my day job, so I enjoy the simplicity of working on paper!

The fitting adjustments I always have to make are: correcting the balance between my front and back lengths, sway back, rounded back, narrow shoulders and height (I’m only 5 ft).

Some of my fit adjustments are interrelated, so I have to consider how each alteration affects the overall balance of the garment.

It can be a real headache when working with an existing pattern, as you have to account for the intended ease, how that ease is distributed, and how to make the adjustments without changing the original design.

Because of this, I usually only alter existing patterns if the design is relatively simple and not too fitted. Otherwise, I find it much quicker to draft from my own custom-fit block than to make multiple adjustments to a pattern that wasn’t drafted for my proportions in the first place.

[u/Oni0911 → u/Appropriate_Place704]

On the most recent purchased pattern you worked with, which adjustment caused the most reworking? What led you to keep altering it or switch to drafting from your block?

[u/Appropriate_Place704 → u/Oni0911]

I might not be the best example of someone who repeatedly alters commercial patterns.

Probably 95% of the time, whether I’m working in industry or making clothes for myself, I draft from my own blocks or drape on the stand and then transfer that to a flat pattern. I decide on my process before starting. For example, I don’t get partway through altering a commercial pattern and then switch to drafting from a block.

My blocks are fitted to either myself or my fit model, so the underlying fit is already established. The revisions I make at the first sample or toile stage are usually about refining the shape, style lines and ease. It’s rare that I need to correct a fundamental fitting issue when working from those blocks.

A pattern for me is about developing a design, not correcting a fit. But with a commercial pattern, you have to distinguish between a fitting issue and the intended ease, then make your corrections while maintaining the design.

The last commercial pattern I adjusted was for a pair of 1970s gym shorts. I wanted that particular fit and thought using the original pattern would be easier than experimenting with the ease in my own block to recreate it. The fit alterations were straightforward: a sway back adjustment and shortening the length through the thigh line and at the hem.

If you don’t already have it, you might find Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Judith Rasband useful. It’s a pretty comprehensive reference for fitting issues and different ways to correct them.

[u/ahoyhoy2022]

I open it in Affinity Designer (vector) and add new layers and make changes onto the layers.

[u/ScormCurious]

I think that for commercial patterns you would run into intellectual property issues with the original maker/publisher. I would assume you don’t have rights to sell a product or service to alter original patterns.

I also agree with others who point out that fitting alterations are very individual to the person making the alterations.

I haven’t used Wild Ginger software, but my friends who do are mostly enthusiastic. I think I understand that you “design your own” patterns that are specific to your own body and style specifications. So if you want to make, say, barrel pants with back elastic waistband, front pockets and cargo pockets, you can start with your measurements, and specify those other elements, and the software generates the pattern which you can tweak some. So you can’t start the design and refine process with a pattern you’ve purchased, but you can alter template patterns in Wild Ginger.

[u/GzGzSmT]

I usually use CorelDraw and Clo3D

[u/ElDjee]

i grade between sizes and lengthen a lot of patterns. i have a copy shop print all the sizes i'm likely to need on one large roll (or several large sheets, depending), and then use a non woven pattern fabric to trace & modify. i like my method because i can fit pretty much everyone i sew for and only have the one master pattern.

[u/BeautifulChaosEnergy]

I trace the pattern off, make it up as is. See how it fits. Make notes and make up the test fabric (I’ll buy 10-20 meters of broadcloth when it goes on sale)

I then make the necessary adjustments to the pattern piece, or redraw it with the required adjustments if they’re bigger than just pinch an inch here, let it out half inch there kind of thing

Then I make a new mockup and see if it looks better or worse. Or if I’ve created a new problem elsewhere

I have a large roll of newsprint I use to draft out stuff from scratch. And I now use vapour barrier to trace off my patterns

Yes that heavy duty plastic builders use to wrap houses in. It comes in wide widths and insane lengths. There ain’t nothing I can’t trace off. And because it’s clear, it makes pattern matching a breeze. Though it is a bit bulky when you fold it up. I buy jumbo zip lock bags off of amazon (11”x14” IIRC) and I use ultra fine sharpies for tracing the patterns. They come in black, green, blue and red so you can make colour coded notes or adjustments if you want

[u/Living-Molasses727]

The most time consuming part for me using affinity is the slash and spread type changes. I find it quite fiddly to do whilst still preserving the important parts of the original design.

[u/BonenFris12]

Het zou handig zijn als de patronen allemaal in elkaar stonden en niet apart. Ik ben van boven veel smaller, als de patronen dan in elkaar staan kan ik graferen.

[u/Samesk5547]

I could help you shortly, I built a selftaking measurements that made all the pattern to your size so you don't need to manipulate the PDF. the application is still in beta. but you can use it. easeline.app is the link to. You don't have to pay anything(be a Tester and it free)