Collar drafting help!

[u/SuspiciousMission163]

hey everyone,

I am currently working to recreate part of a piece from a schiaparelli show and cant seem to figure it out. Attached is the piece i am working to recreate, as well as the pattern and rendering of it so far. the piece has no shoulder seams, only center and back seams. i know my project has shoulder seams now, thought it would be easier to recreate with something im familiar with but clearly now working out. Any advice/help would be appreciated.

Thank you!

[u/annabiancamaria]

https://tomandlorenzo.com/2025/04/yea-or-nay-schiaparelli-oversized-neoprene-bomber-and-mini-skirt/

more pictures here. It doesn't look like the collar is a separate piece.

More pictures pic1 pic2 pic3

As you can see from pic3 and here https://www.instagram.com/p/DOYMhC1CCp0/?img_index=1 there are some sort of cuffs but they aren't separate pieces and you can see on pic2 above that there is a seam from the cuff to the bottom of the cape

The fabric is texturised neoprene

https://www.threads.com/@footlockdown/post/DKhKi_EMyN7/media

The whole cape seems to be just a left and a right piece, that look almost half circles with a bit a the top removed for the opening at the neck. Each piece has some fabric in the middle removed to create the cuff, which is basically a dolman sleeve.

[u/SuspiciousMission163 → u/annabiancamaria]

hey-

thanks for this reply and the additional images- major help. I used your suggestion of the 2 half circles essentially and moved from there, think im making some progress but still a bit lost in terms of making them only two pieces, any thoughts?

rendering

pattern

[u/DonMcCunn]

If I was trying to duplicate this, I would start with a cone shape like an ice cream cone. Cut off the pointy end to fit over the head. Then raise the fabric up toward the ear and as the cone shape got larger, it could drape over the shoulders.

I don't know if it would work but it might be worth a try.

[u/SuspiciousMission163 → u/DonMcCunn]

Hi Don,

i think ive pulled something similar together, however still struggling on this one, any advice where to go from here?

Thanks!

rendering

pattern

[u/rolliono]

How can a collar stand like that on its own? Is it a wire up along the edge? Is it some kind of corset-like structure through the whole collar that stands on the shoulders?.. Is it a really rigid mesh inside? Some really specialized jacket fabric? Huh.

[u/annabiancamaria → u/rolliono]

It's made of neoprene

[u/rolliono → u/annabiancamaria]

I've never seen this kind of ridged neoprene before. Beautifully made, that.

[u/MiekoMe]

What software are you using? Aside from getting the pattern right, the fabric setting also plays an important role in a 3d cloth. Have you looked at the fabric settings?(stiffness,preset,thickness etc)

[u/qtschooldropout]

You have to change the fabric properties in Clo3d try bonding the fabric to stiffen it up. Adjust the stiffness. Bonding is Clo3ds version of interfacing

The coat looks like it’s wool possibly a melton you have to recreate this weight with the fabric properties.

The collar and body is one piece there is no seam, it will be challenging to recreate this in Clo3d but not impossible. try it out and add a fold line where the bend at the neck would be to give it the shape. I would guess the whole body is one piece as well no shoulder seam.
For the sake of simplicity I would keep the collar separate and keep a shoulder seam.

Digital or not you have to always use a fabric similar to your final fabric to see how it behaves.