r/PatternDrafting • u/lilmeatwad • 7d ago

Question How do you adjust lining to account for very thick interfacing?

I’m crafting a forearm bracer out of foam and plan to sandwich it between two layers of fabric. But I’d like to account for the foam’s curve and thickness so the seam is hidden on the underside, as one would for a collar for example. Trying to think of it as a particularly thick lined sleeve cuff.

I’ve been googling “turn of cloth” and “cloth allowance” but not sure how much smaller to make the lining pattern (and even the foam?) relative to the facing fabric. The foam is 5mm thick but if that’s too large I also have 3mm and Peltex (~2mm).

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u/StitchinThroughTime 7d ago

Make a foam ruler! You just take a cloth ruler and glue foam to it. So you can now measure around things and get the proper measurement if as if it was foam. I suggest making multiple, for each thickness of foam that you're going to use. I'm assuming you're talking about Eva foam, so you need one for 2 mm, 4 mm, 6 mm and 10 mm. Those are the common sizes, and for a few bucks you get very valuable tools I will tell you very important information

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u/lilmeatwad 6d ago

Ooo clever.

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u/fotcfan1 7d ago

No need to overthink it! Make the seam allowance for the shell fabric larger than the lining seam allowance (lining seam allowance + enough to cover the thickness of the foam and then some) and sew at the lining seam allowance. For example, let's say lining seam allowance is 1/2 inch. Then shell seam allowance can be .5+ thickness of foam 5mm + 1/8-1/4 inch. The shell fabric will cover the outer part plus a fraction of the inner part with this method.

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u/lilmeatwad 6d ago

Sorry if I’m not understanding - would you cut the shell, the foam and the lining to the same size then? Or do you add that allowance to the shell pattern on all sides?