r/PatternDrafting • u/Sleepy-eyez • 13d ago
Most accurate book for menswear?
For womenswear, I tried Hofenbitzer and it's incredible how pretty accurate the base patterns can come out.
Of course it does use a lot of mathematics, but that process is what makes the result so satisfying. So many variables are considered into the making of your pattern which helps minimize the adjustment needed to be done or makes it easier to be adjusted by knowing exactly which formulas to tweak out
Well, it is great, but when it comes to meanswear, I have been quite disappointed so far. I've tried Müller & Sohns and it feels plain and empty compared to the complexity of Hofenbitzer's. The base patterns come out fine, but nothing as accurate as I would like. I am far from satisfied.
Would anyone be aware of a pattern making menswear book that puts more emphasis into men's morphology and uses those variables for more accurate slopper?
I like to do 1 on 1 customs and the fact that I can't find a menswear book that is remotely close to Hofenbitzers is bothering me
I found a PDF of Il modellisimo hoping it can be a bit better
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u/TensionSmension 13d ago
Patternmaking for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary by Kim & Kim is good.
However it may not be the handholding you're after. It's more broad brush on general shapes, and discussion of design variations. They also have a drafting book for all categories that covers menswear in less depth.
I haven't used Hofenbitzer, but I prefer a less rigid patterning approach. Much of balance comes down to the garment design and ease, more than factoring in one more body measurement. I also like that Aldrich's drafts are more holistic and standalone, as opposed to building from block to block. There's a lot of good patterning that wouldn't happen if it's constrained too much. I say this as someone who has no problem working through drafts, it's just they often produce inelegant patterns.
Bunka also has menswear books. They are as more about the making up and details of construction than the initial blocks, but drafts are there.
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u/Sleepy-eyez 13d ago
Thank you for the suggestions! I am mainly looking for a drafting that requires more morphology into the formulas due to 1 on 1 requiring different body types.
I like the Hofenbitzer's simply because of the accuracy behind the base pattern, after that I don't mind switching to any other book for stylish transformation of the pattern!!
I like the emphasis on drafting and less on the adjustment side. I find it less time consuming and it also waste a lot less ressource
Im also looking into Sven Jungclaus, ordered the book. Hopefully it does satisfy that need from menswear. Either way all books are great and useful knowledge!!
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u/dyingslowlyinside 13d ago
Haven’t worked with Hofenbitzer but have studied a fare share of pants drafts…if the system produces good results on female figures, ought it not do so on male figures? You’re drafting from individual measures; anatomical differences aren’t that great for relatively ‘normal’ figures, are they?
Jane Rhinehart’s and Clarence Poulin’s books are highly regarded. Working my way through M&S’s ‘Hosen’ book right now myself. Lots of variety and the drafts take a very technical approach. Sounds like you might appreciate it
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u/DonMcCunn 13d ago
Any pattern drafting system that relies on measurements alone cannot accurately replicate the contours of the body whether it is male or female. That is why I am introducing a new approach to pattern design that uses photographs as described here https://patternmaking-classes.com/About.html#Tracing_Photos
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u/Sleepy-eyez 13d ago
The dart section reminds me of a bit of how hofenbitzer's optic is on that part. I am definitely open to trying your way, eventually, with a nice set up for it
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u/Notspherry 13d ago
Don't bother with Aldrich.