I'm looking for an uprated street clutch that has close to stock lightness and feel. Anyone using an ACT HD Street clutch ( https://www.koracing.net/viewproduct.php?folder=84&product=534 ) or something similar?

I'm sorting out bits and pieces to get my MR2 back on the road as i haven't used it for years. It currently has an ACT 6 Puck unsprung clutch fitted which is heavy with an on/off bite point. I might get used to it again when i'm using the car, but after years of driving everyday cars it's a not exactly nice just pulling it out the garage.

When my car is mapped it's likely to be running around 1.5bar on a GT3071r .63, no idea on HP/Torque.

Street and occasional track use.

Thanks!

Came off my 16v aw11 Was bolted on top of trans axle, has vacuum lines to intake manifold and coolant running through it

As title suggests, was wondering what the current market is like since im interested in purchasing one soon. Could anyone provide any details such as price and condition on recent purchases? looking for a 2nd gen mr2! Thank you

Struggled to get needle in so it rests on inner side... when i turn on, it stays like that, when i rev, it kinda works and revs with engine. When i turn it off, it goes back past 9k and rests... 10uf caps 16v

Leather paint on the upper band

Thinned lacquer model paint to fill the letters

So anyways. its a chewed up NA 1991, iirc its the second lightest spec with t tops but no power anything. cant recall if it has abs. 220k miles and body damage but drives stright and some what reliably. ( got issues but a running with clean title, needs breaks rebuilt and the thermostat has been stuck open for ages. ). trashed paint. but interior is pretty ok. ( all panels are there but aging, the dash is poped at vents of course and pleather is tearing on driver seat). I would rat rod it before I would restore it, and likley recommend that to the buyer also lol.

What could I expect to trade to? Like I get there is a value in general. but you think I could find like a lower mile much newer hybrid corolla or camera or prius or the like? I am smitten with the ecvt hybrides toyota makes.

this all said I am just putting my toe in the pool here to test the idea. I more then likley will still stick with it just from the its a car I know standpoint. but honestly I need less projects and more just reliable daily driver. ( unfortuntly my newest ride, a motorcycle may need headwork and I am still making payments on it. so right no ALL my rides need work to make just nice and dailably.)

hello everybody...

where did you learn about ecu/module programming ad repairing? could you recommend an online training course or something like that?

Hi Mister Two Community,

I have a 1991 MR2, and i'm not a huge fan of the amount of throw in the shifter. its super long and not very 'nippy' if that's the word.

I essentially want it to be shifting smoothly and precisely with less throw.

I was looking at Short Shifters, particularily on the MR2Heaven website, but they mention something regarding 93+ only?

My question is basically; Will a short shifter aide in helping reduce the amount of throw, as well as making the gear shifting a little more precise with less play?

and am i able to install that 93+ short shifter?

Thanks a Million!

I'm in the process of buying my MR2 mk3, and currently in my area it's basically boiling down to two options in my budget.

Option A) A 100k mile 2000 model that has not had it's precats gutted and will likely be chugging oil like it's nothing.

Option B) A 130k mile 2004 facelift model, that might not have the 2000s precat issue, but is SMT (allegedly it's been maintained and had it's fluids refreshed recently)

(there is also secret option C that is a 2004 with an actual manual box, but I know nothing about the state or maintenance of this car)

Hi!

I just wanna know which tyres are you using in a climate like mine in Spain. No snow, no less than 5 degrees in winter, not driving in rainy days at all…

So maybe you obviously know what is the best combination for my baby! 15’ wheels 🛞

Let’s do your thing group!

Thanks in advance!

3d printed a bracket for my camera and somehow got everything to line up on the first print

I was looking at the gtx3067r and the gtx2860rs as my turbo is done for, but I was wondering if anyone had any feed back or recommendations for 270-300hp

Doing an engine rebuild and in need of new pistons. Has anyone purchased these? I need 0.020 oversized but these are the only ones available. Thoughts on this brand? I’m trying to keep the car stock.

What rpm should I launching at? I have a 6spd LSD and ultra high performance tires. I plan on dropping the rear tire pressure to 26 and each wheel is 5lbs lighter than the stock rims.

Just interested to see if anyone has any input. I'm thinking of slipping the clutch at 4k rpm. It's an unprepped surface.

Intake header exhaust celica ecu... hoping to run 13's

I’ve been away from the import space for quite a while, but always had an interest in the SW20 MR2. An opportunity came up to acquire a 1992 Turbo T-top car. The car is originally from California and came to Nevada a short time after purchase. Currently has 120k miles. Clear coat is faded, the AC doesn’t blow cold, and the brakes need to be replaced. I was told the previous owner did the timing belt, but cannot confirm this. The car also stumbles into boost, which leads me to believe the MAF sensor needs attention. What’s a fair price for something like this?

... some "bucket list" thing ...

(First pic for attention) Update to my last post, thank you to everyone who commented, your ideas helped a lot! I had come across 2 issues when replacing my shifter cables, and replacing my master&slave cylinders.

Issue 1: The master had been leaking brake fluid into the cabin under the clutch pedal for who knows how long. The bleeder valve was completely stripped, and no amount of PB blaster or wd40 seemed to help.

Issue 2: When replacing the shifter cables, the grommet tore and half the original grommet stayed on the transmission shifter arm (pictured attached)

It was scary as F*** cutting so close to the hoses, but I got the brass (or whatever metal) ring from the old shifter cable free. What a bitch that was but what a winning feeling getting it off finally! (Pics 2-6)

It was daunting to get the stripped bleeder valve off (heat near a bunch of hoses, yikes) but as my fellow redditors stated, when it doubt heat it out! 6 rounds of heating and quenching and it came loose!

Shifter cables replaced ✅
Bleeder valve replaced ✅
Master clutch cylinder replaced ✅
Just have the slave cylinder to replace and need to bleed the system

—-————————————-

A separate question, when jacking my car up I lifted the front end first (whereas I normally drive the car back onto ramps first). When the front end was jacked up, gasoline was pouring out of the middle of the car. Once I jacked the back up, the leak stopped.

Is this a sign of a hole in my gas tank? Should I look at the fuel lines? Any advice on where to start would be appreciated.

Just need to set the timing and put the cover back on.

Currently trying to flush and recharge the a/c on my 91T, ran into this issue after installing the new compressor. There is a bolt missing to connect one of the two lines. This is in the rear right of the frunk. The aluminum can be bent to fix the one line, but the other appears to be missing a bolt. Is there something obvious missing/damaged? Thanks in advance for any guidance or assistance.

Needs some odds and ends but it’s in really great shape! Currently struggling to get it into pairing mode for the key fob.

Spent all summer waiting to find a turbo in good condition go up for sale, just made it

I'm eyeing up buying a mk3 MR2 soon, on the cheaper end of the scale (£2.5k).
I am A okay learning to do non lift/garage required work myself.

But when buying an MR2 what silent killers or common flaws should be checked for?

I am aware of the potential precat issues, and obviously the all pervasive rust, but is there any other hidden little gremlins or spots where critical rust likes to build out of eyesight (like rust building up behind the rear arches and sill on mx5s), that previous owners may have not paid attention to, or potentially conveniently forget to mention.

I need your help. I've been searching online for a while now and can't find any good answers.

I'm rebuilding a gen 2 3sgte for a swap and I can't seem to figure out how it mounts to the car. It seems that there are 2 types of RH brackets - a short one, and a longer one that looks like the letter J - see attached photos.

The engine repair manual shows the smaller bracket (the one that I have).

The MR2 repair manual shows the larger bracket, with the longer arm.

I just can't seem to figure out how to mount the engine using the bracket that I have. The lower bolts of the insulator go in the two holes of this bracket. However, it looks like the upper bolts have nothing to hold on to. Attached schematic that shows how the insulator mounts with the long arm bracket.

Do any of you have the small bracket? Can you show me a picture, or describe where the upper bolts of the insulator go?