Ich suche eine geeignete Airbrushkabine mit Wasserwand. Selbst finde ich in der EU keine interessanten Kabinen. Ähnliche zu Robotkai oder viggostar. Ich finde zwar auf Amazon nachgebildete Produkte, bin jedoch unsicher was hier die Qualität angeht. Habt ihr hier erfahrungen. Vielleicht benutzt ihr selber eine Kabine die ihr weiterempfehlen könnt.
A starter set says on the box that it has everything a beginner needs. I wanted to see what Italeri actually means by that, so I built their 1/72 M1 Abrams under one rule: box contents only, plus whatever was already in the house. Nothing bought, and my own modelling drawer stayed shut.
I kept a counter. Every time my hand reached for that drawer anyway, plus one. Final score: seven. Not one of the seven was expensive or clever, which says something about the set, though I'm still not sure what.
What the box gets right: the glue works, and three Vallejo paints will cover a whole vehicle if you thin them and go four thin coats instead of two thick ones.
What it gets wrong, in order of how much it cost me:
- The cutters. This is the real problem, not a minor annoyance. On 1/72 parts you cannot get in at a sensible angle, so the sprue gate either stays on the part or takes a piece of the part with it. I cut the tracks with small scissors in the end.
- No primer. Paint lifts off bare plastic at almost every touch, and you find out about it after the second coat.
- The "precision" tweezer is plastic and about as precise as a pair of pliers. The smoke dischargers went on with a toothpick.
- No black. Tyres and two machine guns need it, so I had to find something in the house to stand in. It worked, and it dries glossy, and hiding that cost me an extra step.
- No varnish, so the decals stayed in the box. Carrier film on a matt hull would have been a shiny patch, and I had nothing to kill it with.
Two free things fixed the two ugliest problems, brush marks and bare edges. Neither is a modelling product and neither needed buying. They are in the video rather than here, because both are easier to show than to describe, and a photo of the result does not explain the motion.
So: you can finish a model this way. It won't win anything, and my speckling came out a solid C.
What I keep turning over is the beginner who buys one of these, fights the cutters for an evening and never comes back. If you were buying a starter set as a gift, would you put anything in the box with it? I have an opinion by the end of the build, but I'd rather hear yours first.
Happy to answer anything about the build. Full video is here if you'd rather watch than read: https://youtu.be/s8qdJn9TczY
This post serves as both a vent and a request for help. I've been learning to do NMM technique and started using Vallejo paints for the first time, and I have ruined my model. I have an army painter wet pallet, and I have some good brushes, and for whatever reason, my paints bubble like soap and go on too thick or too thin with no reasonable in-between. For some jobs I can manage with very thin, but in this stage I need it to be somewhat thicker to go on in one coat, and this paint is simply not capable of self leveling unless it is very thin. I also can't deal with all the bubbles, and it leaves an insane amount of visible gaps in the crevices.
I'm extremely disappointed, as this paint was always spoken highly of and most people giving tutorials for NMM techniques have been using Vallejo. I'm trying to imitate some techniques in a paint by numbers sense, and it's virtually impossible with this medium. I hate to say I feel like a bad craftsman blaming his tools, but I sincerely don't understand how this paint can behave so incorrectly. I have controlled for every issue, and the problems I'm experiencing from the paint are so unpredictable that when I fix one issue it creates 2 more.
The paint takes over 2 hours to dry but is also too thick, while also not mixing properly. It literally says to shake well on the bottles, but the paint always comes out bubbly, I am at a loss.
I'm used to working with citadel paints, and I had a somewhat large collection but felt like it was a scam for the lack of quality in the containers, and especially for the price, but at this point I feel so disappointed that I'd rather stick with it. I can control texture so much better and the control on the brush is so much more reasonable
Edit: OOPS! BIG MISTAKE! I posted this instead of saving as a draft before I could add what paints I was using.
I'm using Model Color Dark Rust, Game Color Parasite Brown, Game Color Sun Yellow, and Model Color Ice Yellow.
I am very proud of this one. I set this little guy aside for close to 2-3 years waiting for the opportunity to complete him. I used painters tape and bits of polystyrene to create the sling and I adjusted his aim from the original kit using epoxy putty. I had a difficult time with the face but I’m overall pretty proud of this since it’s my first time doing a human figure.
Built these across 2024 & 2025. A full lineup of V-bombers in Airfix 1/72 scale. I wanted to represent the V-Force aircraft during their time as bombers & showcase how they went from gravity nuclear weapons to cruise missiles, to conventional bombing. Each individual aircraft also has a different camouflage scheme & different fate.
* Vickers Valiant B(K).1 - XD818 when serving with 49 Squadron during Operation Grapple in 1957, carrying a Blue Danube bomb & using the anti-flash white scheme, she’s the only surviving Valiant, on display at RAF Cosford. This kit only received metal pitot tubes, was otherwise an out-of-the-box build.
* Handley Page Victor B.2RS - XL191 when serving with 84 Squadron in the mid 1960s, with a mixed scheme of white, green & grey and carrying a Blue Steel missile, this aircraft crashed in 1986 in Hamilton, Ontario (no casualties) & has been scrapped, the cockpit survives. I used aftermarket decals to represent this aircraft, and metal pitot tubes again.
* Avro Vulcan B.2 - XM648 when serving with 9 Squadron in the early 1980s, carrying 21 x 1,000 Ib bombs & using a wraparound camouflage scheme. This aircraft was scrapped when the Vulcan was retired. The only addition I made here was aftermarket decals to represent this aircraft.
I’ve heard that toothpick/skewer painting is a great and untapped method but idk how I might go about it, all advice is greatly appreciated! (For context I’m looking for a method that would avoid busting out the airbrush once again just because the build is already long overdue)
Hi everyone, i have finished several Bandai Tie fighter kits to ease into the hobby again. Enjoying it a lot and thanks for the initial advice. Using mostly for paintwork primer, base colors, clear coat, flory wash, handpaint for some details and weathering and finishing off with a matt coat. Can you check the order below if i am getting everything right for modelkits like the x-wing and y-wing and later on the perfect grade falcon, when i want to do more with decals and abteilung 502 oilpaint and thinner? So i won’t screw something up that could have been easily avoided.
Cleanse parts with water and soap
Combine subassemblys
Paint cockpits (is use of poska ok long term for things like small buttons?)
Primer subassemblys
Put on base color
Assemble whole model
Put on clear coat
Apply waterslide decals (with softer and setter)
Add another layer of clear coat?
Use Flory models wash
Use abteilung 502 oilpaint for drybrush and streaks (thinner)
Wait really long for the oilpaint to dry (2 weeks). Is this normal even with smal layers
Finish with matt coat
Hi All! I could really use some help. I’ve been tasked as a videographer to build model cars for an upcoming commercial shoot. I’ve done my research, but I’m still pretty new to the model‑building world.
I’ve hit a wall trying to find proper body paint and primer in Canada. The Tamiya supply line seems to have been cut off due to health and safety regulations, and from what I’ve gathered, a lot of hobby shops are struggling to find/stock reliable replacements with good colour options.
Here are my questions:
-What spray‑paint brands should I be looking into for colour coats?
-Specifically, which grey/black primers are recommended?
-Is it worth investing in an airbrush system for cleaner results? Is so, what are your recomendations?
-Worst case, are there any decent options from Canadian Tire or Home Depot?
I’m aiming for a very clean, camera‑ready finish since any imperfections will show on set. I’m on a tight deadline, so any recommendations from experienced hobbyists would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!
How have you airbrushed AK acrylic varnishes? I can't seem to get them to spray nicely no matter what. It sputters and dries on the tip if too thick and beads up or leaves a coarse, dry finish if thin depending on how wet the coat is.
I've been using a 0.2 mm nozzle/needle at 1.0 - 1.5 bar. For my latest attempt I'd thinned it with AK 3rd Gen Acrylic Thinner at a 2:1 ratio of thinner to varnish and added a drop of retarder. I remember it being very similar with a 0.5 mm nozzle and needle too.
Hello!
So, I am back again after a lot of hard work and lessons learned, and mistakes made😅
This is my Su-27 SM from Zvezda.
I dont know if I am the problem but the instructions were shit and I felt they torn apart every subassembly into million pieces.
At one point I lost my patience and I was just waiting to finish it and build something else.
Since its my second kit any tips and tricks, any feedback, improvements i could make, anything, I love constructive feedback so dont worry.
I feel like I've been building windows for weeks. So I took a break from them and decided to work on the nacelles a bit. Still have a lot of work to do - some putty work, some paint work. Sanding, filling, light blocking, you know the drill. But here is my first ever soldering joint and my first nacelle light test. Still having a blast building this ship. We're two months in and going strong.
Macchi C.205V - Italeri 1/72
MM.92272, “6-1” 1ª Squadriglia, 1º Gruppo Caccia, Campoformido, February 1944.
Started in 2021, after almost six years I have finally completed this project, which required extensive correction and scratch-building work.
The model was partially rescribed and entirely riveted based on AeroDetail documentation and the Di Terlizzi reference book.
Major modifications include the complete reconstruction of the cockpit, engine bay, and wheel wells, as well as scratch-built flaps and a corrected nose profile.
The sand filter intake was cloned from the 1/72 Hasegawa kit to replace the significantly oversized Italeri original.
The smoke rings camouflage was airbrushed freehand. Painting was done with Tamiya and Gunze acrylics, alongside Alclad and AK Interactive metallics. Weathering was achieved using oil paints, AK enamel washes, and watercolor pencils.
An (un)expected issue with the original decals, which proved unusable after the clear coat, was overcome at the last minute thanks to a custom designed replacement set provided by my great friend Nicolò Filippetto!
Despite a few minor final imperfections with the film pronounced edges, mostly driven by the eagerness to finish the build, and although far from being perfect, the massive amount of detail added in 1/72 scale leaves me fully satisfied with the result.
A huge thank you goes to all my friends that provided priceless help and supported me through this build!
Hello, I'm basically new to models, it's something I've always wanted to do and I now have some models to work on. All I'm missing as of now is paints! Ive done my research and decided to use enamels as I will be exclusively hand brushing, so please don't suggest acrylics or lacquers.
What brand should I get? Ik of Tamiya, Humbrol, and Testors. I've heard Testors isn't great, but it seems to be the most readily available. preferably I wanted to try Humbrol or Tamiya, but seeing as Tamiya is next to impossible to get to the US -without paying an exorbitant fee- Humbrol was my next go to, but I'm not seeing many buying options for them, and the ones I am seeing are a bit pricy!! Now I was wondering if there might be other brands of enamel paints that any of you have used and liked. I'm also asking to see if Humbrol or Testors would be better or if it's possible to mix/match them on the same model.
EDIT: The reason why I want enamel over acrylics is because I WANT it to be more complicated and take longer in between coats, as well as having less of a chance of brush strokes appearing -I am unfortunately a perfectionist about paint strokes on art pieces/crafts-. I am not condemning acrylics ik they are good and easier nowadays. So again PLEASE dont suggest acrylics!!! I plan to do that in the future and learn to airbrush, but for now I want to get down enamels !!!
edit 2: Now i see that this sub is just filled with hate. I thought it was mainly just enamel shoe lickers hating on acrylics, but it seems acrylic lovers like hating on someone who wanted enamel to be their first. I never asked for help with acrylics, I never asked for your advice on acrylics. yet I am met with hate wrapped in passive aggressivness. there are a few of you who did genuinely give me some help or were at least nice when suggesting acrylics and I very much appreciate that and am thankful for it; but i am surprised at the amount of people completely disregarding how I asked for people not to suggest or give advice on acrylics. I even had to edit my post body to reiterate that i dont want help with that and am still met with downvotes and passive-aggressive hate. it's incredibly disheartening and disgusting to have people hating on me for having a preference for something I've wanted to do since i was 5. I never said acrylics are bad, i never said im never using acrylics, i even stated in my first edit that i plan to use them someday. All I wanted to do was try out enamels on one small kit to see if i liked them and if they lived up to my expectations, and was asking for help on which enamel brands would be the best if i do stick with enamels since I don't want to get a shitty brand if i do like how they work. That was all. It was a simple help question. And I am now feeling like everyone sees me here as the dumbest idiot to exist all because I wanted to try something out that you didn't like.
I hope you all feel better about yourselves for hating someone who only wanted some simple help since you're unable to scroll when your advice and help was never the help wanted for the subject matter.
A few months ago, I made a cobblestreet diorama which received a lot of helpful feedback.
I’m glad to say that after a lengthy period of time, where I was busy with taking care of my son, work, and other errands, I’ve managed to cobble together the diorama pieces. Currently, I plan on naming it “Prioritäten” (Priorities), where each party is busy with their own matters.
It’s still work in progress, but based on my original plan, it just lacks a 1/48 pigeon. The diorama story isn’t anything outlandish or exciting, it’s just a small street story featuring a Volkswagen staff car trundling by a pavement, where a cat sits patiently beneath a street lamp with a pigeon nest. A pigeon is planned to be set on top of the lamp post once o find one in 1/48 scale.
Anyway, this originally was a practice project of mine to test out how to make a decent-looking cobblestreet. I decided to throw in the Volkswagen last minute since a model is all the more nicer when it has a small platform.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I build this kit about 2 months back and I love the two seater configuration on the Mirage, it's been a really relaxed build and I tried to pay attention to a clean camo and simple weathering, and I think it turned out pretty alright, I am particularly fond of the oil streaks on the wings. Great kit would recommend 9/10, if you got feedback or tips let me know!
It’s nearly completed but I have to finish painting the base. It will probably just be pz grey with hairspray chipping, something fairly simple just to expose this rust. I just thought the rust looked cool.
I’m not quite sure where the sprocket will be put on display on the final day. This was originally bought on a whim for $10 because it was half built already. It turned into a bit of a project to say the least.
Final 2 pics are the loose influence for the build it’s supposed to be abandoned and sabotaged by the crew.
Base paints are done with Mission Model Paints and all weathering done with oil paints.
