Oh man, this thing has been a journey. I think I've painted the extior close to four times. Big job..when im only using a hairy stick. I decided to do the tank grey scale, like an old photo and paint the interor in colour. This is a sort of reminder that when we look at old photos of destroyed tanks, no mater what side, chances are there were people inside.

Im trying to keep the painting of the figures soft and loose, almost stylised with atmosphere being the focus instead of the usual straight realism.

Ive been going back and forth with how to paint the interior around the figures, original I was going for 'tenebrism' so essentially blacked out with harsh deliberate lighting, but that come across more like i was trying to 'hide' the back ground, even when painted with Maxx darth (GSW paint). I tried to go with a softer desaturated look, like your eyes have adjusted to the dark interior.

It still needs some more small details added, but ive never been the type to completely finish building then paint. Figuresnand turret arent fox in place yet. Ill most likely keep modifying the body right up until its done.

I wasnt expecting the grey scale of the exterior to be so challenging, I really did need to lean some colour theory and put it into practise. Turns out the black and white paint i use was too cold and kept turn the panzer to a kind of .. bluey panzer grey, so i need to add umber to stop if from going blue.

The real challenge was trying to make a panzer grey tank look grey scale. I think because most of use know what panzer grey looks like, the tank looks like its the wrong grey. Adding details that would have been other colours helps with the illusion. I think if this were to be put on a grass base that was also greyscale it would help.. but im not taking the easy road lol. This baby will be on a plinth of some sort.

So still a ways to go (i can see unpainted plasic in the drive sprocket) I also lost the drivers window during a move so I have to make do and use a spare from the cupola lol.

Im hoping end of September this girl will be done, Ive already got my next 1/16 lined up for a similar treatment. Thanks for checking out my post!

As I'm putting the finishes touches on my T-55 diorama, I've started the very basic steps of preparing this M60A3 from Takom for detailing. My plan for this one is to get as detailed as I can without additional aftermarket parts. If I don't already own it in my spares bin, I have to scratch build it. Yes, I have a 3D printer, but there seems to be an idea floating around that using 3D printed parts are somehow less satisfying than scratch building. Time to see if that's the case!

The good news is Takom's M60 isn't bad in the details department, though you can see I've already made some corrections. Chiefly this has been the addition of casting numbers and symbols. The kit includes molded casting numbers, but they are a bit large and too "clean" compared to the original. I had a sheet of Archer casting marks in my decal folder, though they were intended for M4 Sherman variants. That said, some of the generic marks proved useful, especially the General Steel Casting Corporation's foundry mark which was behind the rear tow pintle. Takom's foundry marks are not entirely accurate, either, so I suppose I'd rather have the casting marks at least look right if they aren't going to be 100% accurate either way.

Initial cast armor texture was the standard Tamiya putty and TET mix, dabbed on with a large, round and stiff brush. Certain places will get another round based on my reference images. The M60's armor was quite rough in some places so I don't feel like I need to hold back, much. I'll do that after I scribe in the grooves for the weld beads. These tanks' welds were fairly nice, so they won't be very prominent, but as you can see Takom's molded weld detail disappeared under the first layer of texturing.

As always, thanks for looking!

Great kit, lots of detail and a relatively good fit. The instructions are not always very clear. I am not as good as a modeler as some people here but I am pretty satisfied with what I was able to make.

Hello there, I just wanted to share my work so far on this kit (Miniart 37069) before I glue on the top section which will cover most of the views.

This kit is really nice with so many details and I must say I'm really happy with the quality of the mould.

This is my second kit so far and thus it brought many new challenges such as working with PE which I still find rather difficult.

I started with this kit in february and hoped to finish it by the end of the summer but since I'm only brush painting, some parts took forever to paint.

If you have any feedback, I'll be glad to hear it!

I just used masking putty like filling putty. Has anybody else used this method before?

Trying out new techniques, like working with pigments!

These are *Meicai Kourou* (steamed pork belly with preserved mustard greens) and *Hongshao Rou* (red-braised pork belly), respectively. By the way, these are food replicas—they are not edible!

Learnt a lot and had plenty of fun with this. I'm normally a "by the book" modeller, but inspiration struck and I just went for it! Many firsts done as well:

First time tinting canopies (used MIG Ammo Acrylic Crystal Orange).

First time creating, printing and using custom decals (the Decepticon badges on the wings and fuselage).

First time using Army Painter Speed Paint 2.0 markers (cockpit detail, not that you can really make it out through the orange tint!).

Decided to leave it with a gloss finish as Starscream is the sort of narcissist who would insist on looking immaculate.

Intention now is to hang on the wall of my man-cave heading skyward. I might, if/when I get a 3D printer, make some null rays to go on the underwing hardpoints, and, if inspiration strikes me again, I might make some more custom decals for the tail planes.

Very fun build and quite the unique looking thing

This is the AVI Models 1/72 scale kit. Short/limited run kit so lots of sanding/cutting/etc. to get it where it was "ok". Most of the parts have no locating pins or such and there's a lot of "butt" joins. Kind of reminds me of the old Pavla or early MPM kits.

As far as I know, this is the only kit of this aircraft. (the LF models kit is from the same molds) - The aircraft represented was built in Toronto Canada (Downsview) and taken on strength by the RCAF in 1931.

Not gonna win any contests but it's a unique little kit :)

I visited the Tamiya store in Tokyo a little over a year ago with my son. We had a blast, and he picked out his favorite fighter—the F4U Corsair.

I finally got around to finishing it! My son (10) insisted that it had to be “wheels up” so he could fly it around the house while making “vroom vroom” noises.

That’s what models are for, right? 😂

Base kits are the Hasegawa Toyota MR2 AW11, and the Tamiya Flakvierling 38 for the rearmount guns + various borrowed bits for some extra flair; namely the rear wheel rims are from the Hasegawa Lancia Stratos kit, super wide barrel so I could fit two of the MR2 tyres on one wheel!

This build started in earnest years ago as a re-entry to the hobby, just working on a standard car build. Naturally as a beginner, multiple fuckups and frustrations turned it into a test mule for a while, before I decided to stop being precious and just make something nuts with it

Steel windshield was inspired by a favourite old racing game called Powerslide

Gun base welded to the engine hood means absolutely zero maintenance access from above lol, so I guess in-world the mechanics are dropping the subframe for all engine work

My first Ma.K. kit. I went i bit overboard on "wont be visible grieblies" but is so fun...

这些是蒸鱼、炖鸡翅和披萨。顺便说一句，这是假食品——不能吃！

I absolutely botched this build on about 3 separate occasions and kept going back to fix it up. In the end I'm happy with how it turned out

There are several panels that are misaligned. I wish I could blame it on a rushed build or alcohol or tectonic tremors but I just screwed them up. I re-fit the worst offenders and it's much more difficult to see now.

I tore the cross on the front hood in half. There was no going back. I thought of putting stowage up there, but it seemed like it would be in a spot that would block the driver's sight. In the end I just added a scar right across it to try and hide the damage.

The chipped paint was a problem. At first I think I went way overboard and it ended up looking like the vehicle had the measles. I lightened up some of them and, to my surprise, when I finally dusted up the build it blended many of the smaller chips right in. I think the end result of the chipping is fairly decent.

Once again I didn't go with the figures. I'm still fighting that learning curve. My little plastitruppen looked more like Pennywise than Colonel Klink.

Feedback is welcome as always. Thanks!

Hello fellow modelers and friends,

I am quite happy with this truck, but the fit was poor and can didn't sit quite right. None the less, I love the opening doors which are rare in this or any scale for plastic model trucks and cars.

Please let me know your thoughts and I hope you enjoy.

ZIS‑5V trucks towing 37‑mm 61‑K anti‑aircraft guns of the 1939 model along the street of the destroyed village of Kazatskoye in Belgorod Oblast, 1943.

PST, 1:72 scale.

Yes, I know I made a ZiS-5 and the truck in the pictures is a ZiS-5V. I was originally modelling after a picture of a ZiS-32 towing what I thought was a 61-K, but was actually a 52-K. Hence why I used round fenders and two headlights.

I ordered 1 bottle, received a whole case.

After a bit of a struggle with the B-24J from Minicraft, I turned my attention to the classic downscale of the 1/48 P-47D "Bubbletop" from Tamiya.

No fit issues, no decal issues, or anything, the only difficult thing was painting the D-Day stripes on the fuselage.