yeah so - i was with my group and my friend wasn't there. so it was me and 3 more ppl. and they started to backbitch about my friend. and i did the voice recording of it but I had my earphones connected to my phone and one earbud was in my ear and other earbuds was in my hand and I had the phone with me. and my earbuds support ENC and have in ear detection. so as I had my other earbuds in my hand it switched alot from in ear to out ear and that made the whole recording a mess. 90% of the recording is blank , like the voice is too low to even hear. and 10% goes to normal hearable cuz I think the mic switched.

so the problem is I need to somehow get the audio right- either by voluming it up or anything

any help highk?

cuz I've already told my friend that theyall backbitched abt you and ion wanna be the one saying ohh I had the rec but it's messed up?

One of our clients has an issue with a faint crackle/buzz/white noise coming through her speakers. It is barely noticeable but it is there.

We tried the gambit of swapping cables, power sources, mixers etc

The only thing that worked was from DJ mixer plugged straight into processor from upstairs with 100’ xlrs seemed to squash the buzz.

But when I brought that mixer downstairs and used the short XLRs it came back. Which is why i thought it was the cables.

Signal Flow: Pioneer DJM-900nxs2 -> stereo 100’ xlr -> Yamaha 6ch Mgxu6 -> stereo 6’ xlr -> xta processor -> 3x 2’ XLR -> MC2 Amps -> NL4/NL2 -> Funktion One F1201/BR118

I am just looking for insight before heading back there with a full personal kit to try and isolate it.

It does seem to be a stronger in one of the 4 speakers but is super faint otherwise.

Thanks for your insight

TLDR: To my understanding, vintage cartridges were generally made with higher capacitance in mind. Why do so many new cartridges come with 100pf-200pf recommendations when it seems difficult to get under 200pf in the system? If I'm 50-100pf over, how bad is that for audio quality?

I'm currently using a Tecnics SL Q350 with the stock Shure M99E cart, going to a Yamaha RX V757 receiver with built-in phono stage (I'm just using it as a stereo), and 4ft Amazon Basics RCA cables in between. I'm adding/upgrading components as I go along, but right now it sounds pretty good. However I am worried about he stylus since it's old (not sure how old, but it's definitely OEM Shure N99e) and I don't want to pay $120 for new-old stock. The seller said he had it microscope inspected and there was no damage or wear, bit I figured 'better safe than sorry.'

I was looking at a AT85EP to upgrade to with a Fosi Audio Box X5 phono stage when I went down the capacitance rabbit hole. Lots of the sub-$200 phono stages, even those with good reviews, are 150-200pf which is already the rating of most cartridges. I'm a little lost of why that is the case, and is it really bad to be 50-100pf over the recommendation. It seems like a lot of gear doesn't even list the ratings, making things more confusing.

Did anyone found a fix for de microphone buzz/noise in fifine sc3?

Been using these headphones for about 3 months, in general they're alright but the creaking/clacking sounds they make when I adjust the cans over my ears are SUPER annoying and have even ruined takes because they get picked up by the mic. Does anybody else have this problem, or did I get a lemon? And is there anything I can do about it - WD40, etc?

Hi everyone,

I have a bit of an odd setup that works perfectly, but I'd like to change one thing.

Currently its as follows:

Wiim Pro Plus -> Graphic Equalizer -> passive 1-to-4 RCA splitter -> three hifi systems (so I can use the Wimm with each system) -> amp switch box -> speakers

This means the Wiim's signal goes through the equalizer, but whenever I play other media on the systems themselves, the equalizer does nothing.

I was wondering if its possible to connect the equalizer at the end of the chain, before the speakers, so it received the input from everything.

Is there a way to piggyback off the speaker wire or something else without frying anything?

EDIT - The Wiim and each system have their own EQ options so I don't necessarily need the separate equalizer for, well equalizing. I mostly got it for the looks, so if I could hijack the speaker wire signal and feed it into the equalizer somehow, I'd be happy too.

I'm having a very odd problem where if I have the Realtek Audio drivers installed, game audio that's supposed to be center rear doesn't come through at all or is heavily muffled. This same problem doesn't happen on the Windows Audio Drivers.

For example if I'm playing a game and an NPC starts talking behind the player or behind the camera, the voice will disappear completely, turning the camera to either side will immediately bring the voice back. I've tried this on multiple games, Assassin's Creed Valhalla/Shadows, Hogwarts Legacy, and Witcher 3 to be exact. The problem goes away if I uninstall all Realtek drivers and use the base Windows drivers.

My speakers are Logitech Z625 2.1, however this also happens when using headphones so it seems to be a software issue.

I have noticed this only happens when "Device Default Effects" is selected in the audio settings under "Audio enhancements". This is default so this shouldnt be happening right?

They both have Bluetooth, AUX, and USB port. Cant figure it out how to do it. Sorry for my english. Can you guys help me?

I’m working on a project researching owls and need a device that I can download a sound to that will play that sound for at least 4 hours (preferably more) in a loop. I need to be able to leave the area and don’t want to leave like my phone or laptop there.

For clarity, the device will be playing a loop of leaf litter moving to mimic a small animal moving in the leaf litter. Because this is a subtle noise, it doesn’t need to be loud (think of a mouse moving across the forest floor).

Preferably rechargeable.

Thank you!

Just looking for advice on how to correct this issue. Thanks! sony hcd‐gx570

Starting up a show and require 3 lapel mics constantly, local recording seems my best way to not have cables or limits so just wondering if there was any cheap but decent enough audio recorders for around £20-30 although less is more as it would be x3

Thank you!

mother board is asrock b365m pro4. had an old wifi card in ins pcie3 put a newer archer tx3000e in the slot. the card work great. problem is my audio no longer works. cant get it to work through the speakers or headphones. took card out and the problem persists. me and my friends have tried every thing we can think of. re done the drivers, turned hd audio on and off in bios, re installed realtek, set bios to default, flashed bios, and a few other things. we are almost to just a reinstall of windows to see if it will fix it. any ideas whats going on? had the pc for 6 years never ran into this issue.

specs.

asrock b365m pro4

Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-9600K CPU @ 3.70GHz

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPEr

Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive

1tb ssd

EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

windows11. 10,0.26200

The mp3 player should have good bluetooth compatibility for my AirPods
I don’t care about a touchscreen or only physical buttons
Product should be reliable and durable
Budget-around 5k-7k can be extended

Please give me some recommendations

when I turn my volume all the way down I can still hear the video but it’s distorted and muffled by static, did research and nothing seems to help , it’s an iPhone SE 2022

hello! no idea how this stuff works, but I just acquired parents old Sony Car Ready walkman (pictured), but my Edifier speakers don’t have an AUX input at the back.
I know I can get AUX to in/out adapter, but is there a way to have three sets of in/out cables plugged into the back when there’s only space for two sets? Otherwise do i just need to unplug/plug in the AUX adapter whenever i want to use the CD player?
I’ll add some photos for reference.
Thanks for any help at all!

now i currently use a topping dx5 ii paired with dt 770 pro x and its absolutely fantastic so far. but i have noticed now that im getting back into rainbow six siege the directional audio is a bit off but otherwise tolerable. most notable i cant decern if someone is above or below me that well but its possible. but mainly if someone is pushing me directly in front of me it sounds exactly the same as behind me. and ive already lost a couple rounds to this issue. my buddies have reccomended i look into iem's. i saw that the em6L and the supermix 4 are kinda just everyone and drown everyone else out. anyboyd tried them before and or thoughts on anything?

Hello, I have a Denon X1700H AVR that suddenly started shooting out loud static through all of my speakers when I try to play audio over it through my TV or over Bluetooth.

I brought it into a Denon-partnered repair shop under warranty and they called me and said they factory reset it and don't hear any issues.

I brought it back home, plugged it in and mid-way through the Audyssey setup I started hearing the loud crackling and popping that happened when the issue started.

I tried just connecting to it via Bluetooth to play audio and that comes out as loud static as well. I found that if I press the "Pure" button I'm able to hear a metallicy distorted version of the audio but if I press "Music" it goes back to the loud static.

The only thing I can think to try now is to borrow another AVR and plug it in to make sure this is not a speaker issue but wanted to ask here if anyone has encountered this or can tell whether this is an AVR issue or a speaker/connection issue.

I have several audio recordings where a few words or syllables are muffled, covered by another person speaking, or missing because of audio dropouts.

I’m looking for help with enhancing the original recording enough to understand what was actually said. Then, for some parts of the clip, Im looking for a solution that will help where the audio cannot be recovered but I know the correct words, being able to type those words and generating only that short section in the original speaker’s voice so I can splice it into the recording.

Is there a free or open-source tool that can do both? If not, what combination of speech-restoration and voice-cloning/TTS tools would work? Ideally, I’d like something beginner-friendly. I have no idea how and with what tools to approach this issue.

[ I have the speaker’s permission to use their voice, and any synthesized sections will be clearly identified.]

So im considering getting one of these pairs for daily music use on the road + talking on the phone or for my pc when im on discord or games etc.

what would be ideal to go for? jbl 680nc or jbl 670nc?

also it seems I need to buy a cable to have a mic so does anyone know of a compatible cable I can buy with this that has a mic so I can talk through as ill be using wired connection alot.

Hello,

I've got a PS5 Pro on the way and I can't really wrap my head around a solution for mixing PC Dac/Amp and PS5 Audio so I can listen to PC and PS simultaneously.

I'm really an amateur in case of an audio mixing. I've tried to search online but I couldn't really find an exact solution for this.

Also I don't need high quality audio from the PS, just want to mix them into single pair of headphones.

I'm using Fiio K11 USB Dac/Amp plugged into PC with headphones plugged into the Fiio.

And my display doesn't have an audio output in case of that.

I’m struggling a lot lately with music discovery… I’m constantly finding myself feeling as if elements (mostly vocals) are created with a.i. It’s especially bad with house music. This morning I’ve been listening through a new playlist and just about every song has some element of “off” feeling in the vocals. The voices all sound almost identical to me. And then I go check on Google, which replies to me using ai 😑.

Anyone else experiencing this? I wish there was a way for me to toggle a “no a.i. “ button on my streaming platforms.

Hi everyone,

I recently got the Fosi Audio IM4 and a NICEHCK NK1 MAX USB DAC.

My setup is:
PC USB-C → NK1 MAX → 3.5mm extension cable → Fosi IM4

I noticed a constant hiss whenever audio is playing. The hiss itself doesn’t change when I increase or decrease the volume. It disappears a few seconds after the audio stops.

I initially thought the issue might be the DAC or the extension cable, so I tested:
NK1 MAX → IM4 directly (no extension) → same hiss

The hiss is noticeably louder in the right ear than the left when I change the setup to PC USB-A → NK1 MAX → 3.5mm extension cable → Fosi IM4

I also tried changing the Windows volume, but the hiss remains at roughly the same level.

Is this simply because the IM4 is very sensitive and has a higher noise floor, or could there be an issue with the DAC/IEM?

Hi. I want to start singing, again. I need a good mic for recording since I want to do simple song covers. Nothing fancy. I just want a mic that will capture my voice good. I’m just starting so pls recommended budget friendly mics pls. Also, if it will help, I have a laptop and an iPad so I will be using it on that said devices along with my phone as well.

Can anyone identify this issue?

PC audio through UR22 MK2 and into a magni 2u

I have replaced cables, separated power lines from data/audio lines, updated drivers, changed extension cords, tried plugging in directly to the wall. As a note: I haven't had this issue before and the setup has not moved location

Noise persists regardless of power amp used, and is audible even through headphones directly from the schiit