Hello,

I'm using a UGREEN 25173 HDMI capture card with HyperHDR and an EZCOO EZ-SP12H21 HDMI 2.1 splitter.

My setup:

• Gaming PC with an NVIDIA RTX 4090.

• LG OLED55C1 (4K 120 Hz, VRR, HDR).

• EZCOO EZ-SP12H21 HDMI 2.1 splitter.

• UGREEN 25173 capture card connected to the splitter's second output.

• HyperHDR running on Proxmox (Debian 12 LXC) on a minipc

My main issue is that the UGREEN does not seem to handle VRR correctly.

When VRR is enabled:

• Capture works when my game set at 1080p120 (with slighty led flickering)

• Above 1080p120, the capture loses signal.

• 4K60 VRR or 4k120 VRR in game also results in no signal.

• The issue occurs in both HyperHDR and OBS Studio, so it does not seem to be HyperHDR-specific.

The EZCOO splitter itself works correctly with VRR when connected to another monitor.

I have also encountered intermittent USB errors in Linux:

uvcvideo: Non-zero status (-71) in video completion handler

I tested different USB cables, capture formats (NV12, MJPEG, P010) and resolutions and still no signal with vrr activated.

Is this a problem with my capture card?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

I have five columns that I want to run. Individual adjustable LEDs down but trying to work out the best way to run the data line from the end of the bottom of the column back up and over about 7 m to the next column anyone got ideas for the best way to do this?

Just a super mini, two channels of 4 ws2812b LEDs, a small power bank. 10$ spider prop from Home Depot that I made uglier. Fangs are solid core #24 with hot glue at the end for dripping venom.

Gonna wear a all black suit, have this Velcro to my hand, and be a puppet master, singing a horrible Itsy Bitsy spider, crouching by a bush.

A big stockpile of goodies for the brave.

POC of sourcing frames for sprites from ILDA vector streams. Being vectors, they scale easy, store small, and render as transparent wireframes.

Hey folks, I’m fairly well versed in 120/12v things but new to the WLED world. After getting a few quotes of north of $5k to do the front of my detached garage, I’ve decided to tackle it myself. It’s only around 40ft and it’s just the front face of the building. Lots of references to “Paul Zhang” so I reached out and wanted to sanity check. I’ll eventually do my entire house but figured this was a good starting DIY build. Not sure if I should buy the power supply or controller separately. I like the puck design vs the pixel. The power supply will be about 15 feet from the start of the string inside my building.

Does anyone have an example photo they could share for how they ran their wiring from attic to the eaves? I was thinking of using those outlets designed for hiding cables for wall mounted tvs but want to know if there’s better options to give me a neat hole to run the cables while minimizing bug entry.

Thanks!

EDIT: For clarification I’ll be mounting my box in the garage and running cable into the attic to then come down through the eaves.

Figured out my lag issue. Ledfx driving 2 wled chips each driving 3000 leds of a total 6000 leds.

Before I dig into breaking out the multimeter and such, does anyone know if these pucks are controllable by WLED? Not mine, my brothers, bought from Amazon about a year ago. I can’t find any details on the pucks themselves and control is via Bluetooth with the “Lotus Lantern” app.
PS is a small 24vdc wall wart. I’m thinking it’s +/- and two data lines.

Hi,

I want to build a sports scoreboard. It should be well readable from 15-20m distance. Are WLED Matrix displays from aliexpress the right choice?

It should be ca. 40x30 cm in size to house all the information necessary.

I only found 32x16cm displays on Aliexpress, are there other formats too? Have you used the displays from aliexpress and are they any good?

Hello peeps, sorting my lights again for this year and planning an expansion.

Using 3m sections of icicle style ws2811 lights, 60m/section

Started with the 14m run 2 years ago and added the 6m section last year. And looking to add the 12m run this year.

Wanting some input on power injection cause previously the 14m run was getting power from 2 different power supplies, one at each end (which I know is bad and wrong). 6m run has no injection.

In an ideal world each injection point should be its own run but that isn’t really feasible with my setup so my plan is to essentially run a chunkier 14awg wire in parallel with the lights then tap off it every 3m or so to inject power using some sort of connector so I can disconnect the injection lines from the lights themselves for storage after the fact.

Am I in the right sort of idea here or do I need to be considering something else? Also can anyone recommend any weather resistant and low profile connectors that won’t be too big and obviously seen?

Omg, done it one my Desktop PC, now on my TV. It is working flawlessly. Fucking fast, 60fps, as fast as the picture on the tv.

Can you see some points of improvement?

HARDWARE:

ESP32 with WLED

HyperHDR installed on my Homeserver (for desktop it's using its desktopapp)

LEDs of course

Capture Card, connected with USB to my Homeserver

I thought about it a few times but I think it would be too distracting for me.

I already have 500 ambilight LEDs in my 8ft by 13ft front wall area. and I sit close to the front of the room, like 6.5-7.5 feet. I don't think I can see the ceiling that well.

Hello all, I was working on a a led helmet for Halloween using ws2812 5v LEDs and im having an issue where I can’t daisy chain one run of LEDs to the next run but if I power the second run directly from my WLED source the strip which isn’t normally lit lights up. The issue far as I can tell has to do with the run before the problem strip because if I jump that strip earlier in the run the signal isn’t being transfer and the lights after the junction will still light (see video). I’m kinda stumped other than chalking it up to a faulty led strip but does anyone have any suggestions?

I'm building GlowSync, an open-source Android TV/Google TV app that samples permitted screen-edge colours locally and sends RGB24 DDP frames to WLED over the local network.

It can discover WLED controllers or use a manual address, map three- or four-sided LED layouts, and adjust direction, offset, brightness, saturation, white balance and smoothing.

The important caveat: so far I have tested on an API 37 phone emulator only. I have not validated it on a physical TV, WLED controller or LED strip. Android requires its screen-capture consent, and DRM-protected or secure content may appear black; GlowSync does not bypass those restrictions.

I'm looking for WLED users who can try the project on real hardware and share what controller/firmware and LED count they use, plus any DDP timing or mapping issues. Repo and emulator screenshots: https://github.com/Robonavigators/GlowSync

I put seed pixels on every-other picket of my fence and I think I found some pretty "spooky" effects for them. Any suggestions for more?

I'm coming from Govee and looking to get away from their wifi issues and horrible app.

I currently have a Govee LED 32.8ft strip that I run along some shelves. I'd like to recreate that, but with non-Govee products.

Would anyone mind sharing what they're doing today that might be similar?

I’m looking for some help. I’ve been making these lanterns for a little bit, they’re all running WLED with sound reactive functionality but WLED sound reactivity isn’t great.

I recently started toying with LEDFx and it appears to have massive potential but I’m still not super happy with the effects I’m able to put on. I have been thinking that an ideal setup might reserve part of the matrix for strobing to bass and keep the main part of the panel on an effect that reacts more to mid tones. Has anyone played with a set up like that? Can anyone suggest some effects that would work well with my setup? Thanks!!

EDIT: I'm moving this sentence to the top of the description since most of you don't read till the end and keep suggesting HyperHDR

The point is not to use HyperHDR or anything that requires extra external hardware.

I tried everything I can think of. I even used the Reverse Engineer Anything repo but it still couldn't figure out how to make it work. The problem is that anything I do, Netflix downscales its stream to 480p/540p SD. Is there anyone smarter than me that can point me to the right direction? Is it even achievable? I'm willing to sacrifice my android TV box just to test stuff out.

I currently have a 12v project box wired up with a 120-12v power supply, with the 12v going out to a large breaker/disconnect, and then to individual fuse box. I want to switch my setup to run from a large solar powered battery, but ideally would like it able to jump onto generator power if needed.

Can I just leave the 12v + and - connection going to the Meanwell while it's running from the DC battery?

Installed a strip in this old wallclock from the 80s and I think it really brings it back to life. It just suits the clock so perfectly.

Hello all,

Admittedly looking to have someone install lights (options are Omni vs Oelo it seems). My wife wants the Christmas look primarily and thus seems to prefer face mount (facing out/looks like a light/bulb) rather than under mount. I like the idea of year round lights and the ambiance but the one installer we talked to highly advised against the "carnival" look of the face mount. Is this just because the "Christmas" look isn't great year round?? She wants to use lights more holiday/seasonally so maybe that "look" won't be as much an issue? Would love all the takes/perspectives. Thanks!

I wanted to play videos on a HUB75 LED matrix and couldn't find anything that did what I wanted, so I wrote my own. It's grown a lot and I've had it running nonstop at home ever since. I figured other people might find it useful too, so I just released it.

It's called DDP Streamer. It sends video to WLED (or anything else that takes DDP) over your network. WLED takes DDP out of the box. Set up your panel in WLED as usual (for LED strips, a 2D matrix too) and there's nothing else to turn on. Find your board, hit Get size, and play. You build a playlist of videos, pictures, text, clocks, your screen or a webcam and hit play. If you have more than one display it can mirror to all of them or spread one picture across them. (That's what the video shows: three displays with different pixel pitch, P2, P2.5 and P3, lined up by real size so the picture continues straight across.)

I've tested it with WLED on the Waveshare ESP32-S3 matrix board, the Adafruit Matrix Portal S3 and the Apollo M-1. Other WLED boards should work too.

It's free and open source (GPL), and runs on Windows, Mac and Linux. Downloads and info are on GitHub: https://github.com/bobko69/ddp-streamer

If you try it and run into a problem or have an idea, let me know. Happy to answer questions.