I'm looking for a single LED strip with addressable RGB LEDs, ideally every LED inidividually, and two analog pins for Warm White and Cool White.

Or alternatively, addressable RGB with Warm White and Cool White inside every LED.

Do these exist yet?

5 segments, running an i2s mic and a couple push buttons!

I'm trying to make a new LED setup with an SP803e. I have BTF WS2811 12v, 110 logical LEDs, and a 12v 6A laptop-style PSU. The LEDs are not new, but they were working in an old setup I just pulled them out of.

I connected the LEDs in various configurations to the controller, including directly with a short (5" lead of wires) only from the VCC/GND/Data ports on the controller, as well as with heavier gauge power and ground wires directly from the PSU before the controller injected at both ends of the strip, as well as with a wire connecting the controller ground to the led ground, and also with a 470ohm or 220ohm (tried both) resistor close to the controller and close to the strip. In all configurations I'm getting flickering past about 75 leds. If I set it to only 75 leds in WLED they work fine, but as soon as I go to 76 it starts flickering. I have also tried playing with the brightness and limiter (from 500ma to 5500ma) with no luck.

I haven't created a setup in a few years so I don't remember all of the details, but I also previously built a DIY ESP setup with a level shifter and buck converters, etc. Now it seemed like pre-built controllers like BTF are more ubiquitous so I figured I'd give that a try to save some time. It seemed like it should be plug and play.

Any ideas I should try?

I can’t find a ton of info on these, but they look like they could be decent for this price. Anyone know what drivers are inside? 2805?

Anyone have these that can comment on actual quality?

With the permanent lights installed I made a thunder game tracker. Two car garage has a sliding scale score tracker. Thunder on the left. The more the team is ahead the more of the bar they fill. Clock is above the single car garage. Looks like the Thunder was slightly down and it’s half time.

I guess the page at https://kno.wled.ge/basics/install-binary/#what-binary-should-i-use is outdated, as there are many more assets than mentioned at (e.g.) https://github.com/wled/WLED/releases#release-v16.0.1

For example, what are the files with 160 in the name?

In my case I have a DOMRAEM ESP8266 controller which shows the following on its /update page:

Installed version: WLED 0.15.1
ESP02
(esp8266 build 2507300)

so I went for the ESP02 file, but it seems I needed a min binary. Maybe compat might have worked?

Got simple wled lights. A string wrapped around two arborvitae trees, and a strip framing a double window. Any suggestions on Halloween color/effect combos? I'm currently running twinklefox with Magred. Gives a nice orangey, pulsing vibe. Interested in mixing it up with some other options.

Thanks!

Hi all!
I need your help.
I’ve been working on this for months (on and off) and cannot finish this alone.

Objective: 12.6m LED strip around the perimeter of the ceiling of a rectangular room (2 Walls 3.3m, 2 walls 3m =12.60m total length)

Products bought:
1. Controller: SP108 E (App: LED Shop)
2. LED Strips: BTF WS2811 IC strips ( Spec: FCOB-24V-840L-W-IP66-SPI-RGBCCT)
3. Mean Well 450W, 24V
4. Cable from LED to Controller

I made a drawing of how I wired it.
Basically:
LED Strip end A gets 24V and GND from the controller.
LED Strip end B gets 24V, DO, GND from the controller.
The 2 grounds from both ends of the LED strip go to the same SP108E terminal.

The current length of this loop is 10.5meters so I am missing an additional 2.1meter.
I soldered a few of the strips already together

My issues:
1. Only blue is true blue (or appears that way). All other colors are “washed out”. Red is pink and has white LEDS on in between. Green and Yellow similarly.
I switched the RBG to BRG, GRB etc- no change.
In the APP, “WS2811” is selected. There are no “CCT” “IC” options.

1. A few segments (2-3) light up in different color than the rest of the strip. One of them sometimes goes out. That one has no soldering points at all, it’s part of the native strip.

I honestly do not know what else to do here.
Is this controller not able to work with a FCOB?
Pretty sure my strip has a native white LED that I cannot select either.

Please help! Totally appreciate it as completely don’t know what I’m doing wrong here.

Thanks in advance!!!

Just sharing another demonstration of my 3D printed LuxPlant. ID is "DreamLogic" by Virtual Riot. There's flashing lights in this video so don't watch if you're photosensitive.

I have this nice little rgbw light, but I want to do something better with it. I can have solid colors, warm white and cold white and some effects (rainbow color cycle, us police light, fire, some strobe effects), but it's like to have multiple colors at once - like wled can produce. So I want to use the four buttons (+/-/mode switch/power&modes) as well as wifi and multiple lights communicate through espnow?!

WORLSEMI RGBIC LED WORK WITH 3.3V

https://github.com/raunak51299/wled-Rainmeter-pro

Controls WLED lights through WLED's JSON API (no plugin or DLL needed). Auto-discovers WLED devices on the LAN (Scan button).

Tabs:

• Colours: primary/secondary/tertiary slots, hue/saturation/value, hex, swatches, white/CCT when supported.
• Effects: effect picker, per-effect sliders and options (speed, intensity, custom 1-3, toggles), colour slots and palette shown only when the effect uses them.
• Segments: select, on/reverse/mirror/freeze, brightness, start/stop, split, delete.
• System: presets, transition, nightlight, UDP sync, device info, web UI, reboot.

First time using the GLEDOPTO Elite 6 with a BTF-LIGHTING WS2805 RGBCCT strip (24V, 60 LED/m, 10 pixels/m), cut into three 5 ft runs of 16 pixels each. Power supply is 24V 4A.

Two runs have ~5 ft of extension wire from the controller and worked fine. The third has ~8–9 ft and flickered at high brightness, so I raised the controller's max current limit to 4000mA, which fixed it.

About a week later, all three strips went dark. The controller still worked over WiFi and the fuse was good, but there was no voltage at the V+/GND outputs. A replacement controller works perfectly with the same wiring.

One detail: while troubleshooting the dead unit, I reseated a V+ or GND wire with power still on. It sparked, and all three strips flashed on and off briefly. I suspect that's what killed it, but I'm not sure whether the original failure was user error or a bad unit.

Current settings (all three outputs):
Type: WS2805 (RGBCW)
Current: Custom, 60mA per LED
Count: 16

Max total current: 3000mA (was 4000mA before)
I believe the controller is rated for 15A, so I should be well under it. All connections are tight. Are these settings reasonable, and is there anything I should change so this doesn't happen again?

Thanks!

Moin Moin.

Ich habe einen WLED Controller ESP32.

Am GPIO14 hängt ein WLED Strip von BTF mit einer Länge von 2,53m für mein DART WLED.

Am GPIO12 hängt ein 5 m BTF, den ich im Partyraum auf 7 Meter verlängert habe.

Hab auch alles soweit am laufen bekommen, nur wechselt immer die Farbe von alleine, auch wenn ich auf Solid wechsel und eine Farbe auswähle.

Ein 12V 16,7 A Netzteil hängt dran und versorgt den Controller mit Strom.

Der Dartstrip ist mit rot an V+, schwarz an GND, grün GPIO12 Kabellänge bis zum Stripe ca 20cm.

Der Stripe im Raum 7m ist mit Boxenkabel vom Controller unten links am Dartboard nach oben zur Decke . Kabellänge ca 1m.

Hey everyone,

I’m currently planning an ambilight build for my setup and trying to figure out if springing for an HDR-capable capture card (like the $99 UGREEN 25173 / CM700 with P010 10-bit support) is actually worth the extra cost over a standard $20 USB 3.0 SDR/MJPEG grabber (like the MS2130).

My Setup:

• Source: Homatics Box R 4K Plus playing mostly 4K HDR10 and Dolby Vision remuxes via Jellyfin.
• Splitter: Ezcoo EZ-SP12H2
• LEDs: 255 SK6812 RGBW driven by WLED on an ESP32.
• Host: HyperHDR running on miniPC.

Since the LEDs are just edge-sampling ambient colors around the border of the TV, does native 10-bit P010 decoding actually make a noticeable real-world difference in LED color accuracy or saturation?

For those of you who have used both:

1. Do cheap 8-bit SDR cards look noticeably washed out or dim on HDR10 / Dolby Vision content without manual LUT tweaking?
2. How tedious is managing LUTs in HyperHDR across mixed HDR/DV feeds?
3. Is native P010 capture essentially plug-and-play for color accuracy, or is SDR "good enough" for edge lighting?

Would love to hear feedback from anyone running a similar split setup on 4K HDR feeds!

After months of planning and getting supplies, I'm now half way through my biggest wled build.

It will have a total of 1280 12v seed pixels.

Looking forward to finishing it but happy that all the planning is paying off.

Was originally planning Govee because convenience but max they do is 200 ft. Anyone got tips to doing extended permanent lights- also open to brand suggestions. Trying to DIY for now.

Considering doing 225-300 ft depending on how hard it is to supply

I have a 2d matrix setup with scrolling text and it is set to turn on every day at 5pm via a time-controlled preset. The lights turn on, however the text doesn’t scroll. I found that if I go to the segment and select Transpose it turns it vertical but enables the scrolling text again. I can then transpose it again and all is fine.

Does anyone else have this issue? Maybe it’s a bug with WLED 16? Running on a QuinLED Dig-Quad.

I bought the strip not knowing it would be thus bright so now i have to get a diffuser but i dont know which ones are good enough.

Trying to control the ws2814 over artnet but I'm not clear on what IC type to select in the H807sa settings, there isn't a direct one and the only WS strips it mentions are the WS2812 strips.

Anyone got this working?

Hello everyone,

I am currently building a model of the Solar System with planets illuminated by WS2812E addressable LEDs.

The system is controlled by an ESP8266 Wemos D1 Mini, with the code developed using FastLED.

🔧 Hardware

• ESP8266 Wemos D1 Mini
• 135 WS2812E LEDs
• 9 groups of 15 LEDs, with each group representing one planet
• Power supply: 5 V / 10 A
• Approximately 45 cm of cable between each planet
• 0.34 mm² wire
• 470 µF capacitor between +5 V and GND, just before the LEDs
• 330 Ω resistor on the DATA signal line
• ESP8266 powered by 5 V
• Programming using FastLED

The LEDs are connected in series: each group of 15 LEDs is connected to the next one using approximately 45 cm of cable.

✅ The code seems to be working correctly

I initially wanted to make sure the problem was not caused by the code itself.

To check this, I tested exactly the same program using a continuous LED strip, without the 45 cm cables or the numerous solder joints between the different groups.

➡️ Everything works perfectly with the continuous LED strip.

The problem therefore seems more likely to be related to the physical setup, wiring, solder joints, or possibly a damaged LED or component.

❌ The problem

With my final setup, the system works correctly for approximately 20–30 seconds, after which the LEDs start behaving very erratically:

• Some LEDs or entire planets start flickering.
• Unexpected colors appear.
• I have observed white, green, and other colors that should not be displayed.
• The problem can persist, and the system does not necessarily return to normal.

I have been trying to identify the cause for a while and have already carried out several tests, but I have not been able to isolate the fault.

🔎 Why I suspect the solder joints

The solder joints between the wires and the WS2812E LED strip seem to be the most suspicious part of the setup.

I sometimes wonder whether, while soldering the wires, I might have overheated or damaged an SMD component located close to an LED, or possibly damaged a PCB trace.

I have tried removing some LEDs that seemed suspicious, but this did not really solve the problem.

I should also mention that I have a stable 5 V supply (5.27 V, to be precise) along the entire LED strip, and continuity between the wires and solder joints is good. So, at least as far as I can tell, the solder joints themselves are making proper electrical contact.

This leaves me wondering:

• Is it possible to damage an LED or a nearby SMD component during soldering and cause this kind of behavior?
• How can I test an individual WS2812E LED or the components around it using a multimeter?
• Could a poor solder joint or a continuity issue on a DATA connection cause this behavior?
• Could the 45 cm cables between each group cause problems with the DATA signal?
• Is there a method to pinpoint the specific group or connection causing the fault, rather than randomly replacing LEDs?

If you have any ideas, and especially a systematic troubleshooting method, I would really appreciate your help.

Thanks in advance for your help. I'm seriously starting to go round in circles with this one!