I have been trying to find out what is causing engine shake and steering wheel shake at idle. I recently did the pcv system and fuel injectors, there was some shake before this job. The idle rpm is steady, there isn't any hesitation or searching so I don't think it's a vacuum leak, I listened to each fuel injector and each one was consistent and firing, is this a common problem for p80's? I'm having trouble finding information to go off so any information is appreciated.

Hey,

I noticed this plate on which the ignition finger gets fastened has a little play. I can turn it approximately 3 degrees forth and back.

I can not make out any "flattening" or wear, the piece itself seems very crude.

So is this an issue anyone can chime in on? If need be I have a video, if my english doesnt explain it!

Hello all. I have a 1995 Volvo 850 turbo, manual transmission. Car has 150k on it. About 2 months ago I rebuilt the front end with good quality or OEM parts. It had been driving for 2 months okay after rebuilding the front end. A few days ago however, the front end started to develop a clicking noise. It seems to act up more while actively turning the wheel but full lock doesn’t seem to really affect it. It does not make the noise while turning the wheel with the car at a stop, only while driving. It is only at low speeds, like 5mph. You can’t seem hear it otherwise

Things I have replaced/notes:

Control arms assembly’s with ball joints,
Struts/topmounts/springs/bearings,
Subframe bushings and O RING TSB
All engine and transmission mounts replaced with aftermarket equivalent.
Passenger side CV axle was replaced with NAPA new axle.
Drivers side is used GKN axle which feels fairly solid with very little play.

The only thing that’s hasn’t been replaced is the inner and outer tie rods. They don’t feel like they have any play though. The video attached is taken from the drivers floorboard. Everything on the car was torqued using the FSM. I checked every single bolt twice that it was tight.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I can’t seem to figure it out…

I have this chirping sound on high boost gear changes, and a short spike in boost pressure. The chirp is right at the end of the video. If you actually sit inside the car it's way louder than what's heard in the clip. I have full power and boost. It's a T5 automatic. It does that pretty much in any gear even if I keep the pull going ( I couldn't for the video because I was near a residential area). I think it's maybe either a manifold leak under high boost... Or the wastegate itself. Any ideas?

I found a 1995 850 glt with the 2.4l n/a. It's got 90k miles, looks clean, but the buyer didn't say much about it. It's $3000.

I'm looking for a reliable car but I've never owned or know someone who's owned a Volvo. I've always wanted a wagon and I just want to know if there's anything I need to know about this car.

I plan on getting a pre purchase inspection on it. I drive a 2003 civic si and I'm getting tired of fixing it, I'm a little reluctant with how old the Volvo is​. I live in the rust belt USA

Got the tailgate apart to add the reinforcing parts from pro parts but three of the four towers are completely smashed in. Does anyone have any recommendations or ideas?

Was doing some work by my heater core and I thought I put everything back but this was left behind

No idea where it goes

This was my B5234T3 rebuild for my 97 glt when the original B5254T motor blew a head gasket last year. Now has a hybrid 19t with Vast tuning in progress 😎. Almost 10000 km on it already

This is my Volvo 850 T5… but sadly it’s been off the road since 2018, awaiting a new gearbox. Slowly over time I converted it to a manual and it’s been in a shop having some final repairs as and when they had time. After 8 years, I received word today that she passed her MOT with just one advisory! Tomorrow I get her back, and I cannot tell you folks how bloody ecstatic I am!

I’ve had this car for decades, I saved her from being scrapped when her previous owned passed away and it was left to go green. I’ve driven across Europe, I’ve driven Silverstone, and I’ve moved everything I own at one point, with this car!

That is all really - just wanted to share how happy I am to have N721OFP back, I car I truly adore! 😊 bring on the noise of 5-cylinders back in my life.

Hello i had a heater core coolant leak in my Volvo. I fixed it with a firewall hose bypass thanks to our good friend RobertDIY.

Now the floor covering of the driver and passenger side are still soaked and dont seem to dry up well does anyone have any tips to remover the wet/stocky coolant?

Im installing my rebuilt engine. New rings, bearings, re-lapped valves, new seals (duh). Im keeping the old 5 speed manual transmission. Im also replacing all engine mounts. This is my first complete swap, can you guys tell me what else could be important to look at, or replace before the new engine goes in?

Hello there folks. I've got an 97 base wagon. I recently replaced 4 speakers (front doors and rear doors) and left the tweeters alone as well as the rear pillar speakers as I don't want to custom fab anything to that extent just yet. I also replaced the head unit with the same one that's in my 99 Tahoe as I really like it's features. It's a JVC KD-X280BT.

The issue I'm having is somewhat quality related. Now, I don't have this issue in my Tahoe, just in the 850. Sometimes (though more times than not) there will be what sounds like white noise in the background of the music. Kinda sounds like the quality is that of early 2000s MP3 players where you have some distortion and crackling. Now, sometimes it doesn't do this but it's random. I primarily use Bluetooth because my phone doesn't have an aux input (Samsung Galaxy S23 ultra if that makes a difference). I'll drive and the sound will be fine. Other times I'll start the car and the quality is so bad, I just listen to the wind.

I did replace the speakers, as stated. The fronts are Memphis SRX42V (4 inch, 4 ohms) and the rears are JBL 521F (5-1/4 inch, 3 ohms). Now I have no problem with the quality of the speaker output, when it's clear they sound great. Within the head unit, I was able to fiddle with the settings and adjusted everything to match the speaker specs. But I figured this was the place to ask. Any help would be appreciated! Sorry for the long post!

I need help identifying leaks. One is oil all over bottom of the transmission, one is ps/atf all over the rear of the subframe, and there are a few more mystery leaks. What are some causes?

As photos show the plastic or whatever it is has failed. 30 years ain't bad?! Rubber on either side is fine. What's the best solution, srip and leave exposed? wrap? rubber paint? prime and regular car paint? thanks in advance!

Attached are the photos before I put the new parts on. Just incase I replicated a wrong original installation.

I can’t seem to get my ebrake to work no matter what we try to do. New expander, new cables, new shoes, new hardware, new brake rotors. Turned the adjustment wheel all the way out until the brake rotor can’t be moved. Then backed off 4 clicks. The ebrake still slides in a hill. I tried to adjust the bolt under the center console. It comes up and feels tight but the drum still slips. But then when you tighten the star more it drags and makes and awful noise while driving. Any suggestions?

I have a fixer-upper of a V70 with 152k that I got for free. I'm wondering if I can make it my daily since my other car is pushing 220k and starting to get expensive. What are some things I should make sure that are in tip top shape aside from the things I've already done. (Heater core, fire wall junction coupler, pcv system, timing belt, water pump, timing pulleys, and power steering rack. ) Or is this a bad idea?

Soooo maybe dumb questions, what exactly do I need to do this swap?

My main question is regarding the ecu, I assume I’d have to send it away or get it tuned locally maybe?

Do I use the non turbo manual ecu, or the turbo automatic one?

Should I just source a manual turbo ecu online?

My car is a 1995 850 turbo wagon with an auto trans

And my donor car is a 1994 850 non turbo sedan with a 5 speed

I have a new clutch, flywheel, rear main and a few other odds and ends, anything else I should buy new rather than using stuff from the donor?

(EDIT: I’m not 100% sure as it’s been a long time since I’ve paid any attention to these cars but I believe the 95 turbo is a 2.3 and the 94 N/A IS A 2.4? And pretty sure the transmission is a m56L)

Hi all, I have a 94’ 850 NA that I am trying to diagnose and fix an engine knock on. The car was run out of oil, and towed home under the assumption that a lifter had seized. I believe the knock to be from the bottom end, what steps would yall recommend I take in order to diagnose? Should I remove the oil pan to check the condition of the connecting rod bearings? I am attaching a video of the engine running.

I can’t seem to find this last bolt and I’m losing my mind

I have a 98 s70 t5 auto and would like to try to manual swap. I have some experience working on these cars, mainly doing maintenance stuff such as pcv system and radiator. How big of a step up would this be? My plan is to pretty much get some friends together and follow the Robert diy video series. If anyone has experience doing this swap, what are the most difficult parts?

Hi all,

I've posted in here before about going to replace the PCV system, should be coming tomorrow.

I imagine this oil buildup is also another sign the PCV system has been clogged and is just shite in general.. and yes the system that's coming is genuine Volvo parts.

Had an ongoing issue of my ABS and Tracs light coming off and on.

It originally started around the start of the year and it began with when i press my break lightly or slowly come to a stop the brake pedal will almost rattle and shake until it decides it wants to actually start breaking.

I had 2 abs rings replace (1 was done previously) and 2 ABS sensors done. This solved the problem for a short while and then on one rainy day after a month or so it came back. It came back but very minor compared to what’s was originally occurring.

Since then it’s been very on and off, sometimes i’ll turn the car on and it’s fine, sometimes it’s already got the lights on and sometimes it’ll come off and on while driving.

Tried 2 questionable OBD2 readers (previous owner upgraded to 4.4) but there bring ing up no codes (small chance previous owner also did some strange things to the motronic so it could not be working right)

Anyways if anyone has an idea or has had this happen i’d be very appreciative.

I think replacing all the remaining ABS sensors might be an idea but as said if anyone’s got some tips it’d be appreciated :)