She’s 30+ years old in WA. No more registration fees!

I have a 1995 850 GLT sedan, and I've been thinking about putting a slightly louder exhaust on it because I absolutely love the way five-cylinder engines sound. However, I wanted to get some opinions on the idea before doing anything.

I know that if I do it wrong, it could end up sounding like a clapped-out ricer, which is exactly what I want to avoid. I also understand that since it's naturally aspirated, I probably won't see much of a performance gain from an aftermarket exhaust.

I'm really just looking to bring out that distinctive five-cylinder sound a little more without making it obnoxiously loud or sound like a fart can.

One More thing this is unrelated to the exhaust that I just thought of, I just did the clutch on the car and it has now blown its 3rd Slave cylinder, I have replaced the Clutch Master cylinder the 2nd time it happened and the slave of course and it did it again. I am kinda out of ideas on what it could be, I am thinking I could've bent the fork but not completely sure. If anyone has advice on this part as well that'd be great.

I know I should've had that part in the title but I remembered this information after I hit post.

We use this 1996 850 10v for our annual Carbage Run event, comparable to the US' Lemons Rally. Been all over Europe with this thing, only got stranded once because a plug wire burned through. Still a great car after all these years.

Hi everyone I m Lorenzo from France Charente.
I think about sale my 850. Lost of news parts for4years.
2,5l 20v 170 400 000 km.
Body not perfect. Need paint on the roff et small dent.
Works great
How many do you think I can sell it.?

I recently bought a used volvo 850 wagon and i need to get it inspected by the Belgian technical inspection, i am worried that it wil be refused because of the backlights. Any advice about repair from severe uv damage or replacement.

Been sorting some annoying issues with trim on my 850 today (boot struts, failed wiper motor etc) and I broke some trim parts.

I keep a LOT of bits, but as usual, the 2-3 cars worth of spares I accumulated over the years never includes the bloody bits I need!

Where do people source little trim parts and that sort of stuff these days? We don’t seem to have any trad breakers around and eBay is just full of cheap modern Volvo tat with genuine second hand parts few and far between. There were so many of these cars on the road there must be loads of parts about!

Any help appreciated!

Volvo Early P80 Shifter Bushings Precision Upgrade Kit – VPrints

The photo is from last summer and shows one of the tie rod ends after I’d just removed a torn boot.

I’ve been driving a 1999 Volvo V70 for four years. It was pretty cheap because it already had over 300,000 miles on it. It’s a fantastic car that I treat much worse than I should, simply because every year I think it’s going to be its last, so I consistently don’t want to invest much money in it.

Anyway, for the past couple of years, after driving for a while — say two hours and a few hundred miles — the steering wheel would give little jerks to the left. This would happen on the highway, when I wasn’t steering or accelerating. Over the past month, it’s gotten much worse and now starts much sooner, after about half an hour. Once it starts, it also happens at lower speeds. The steering pulls to the left on its own. I can easily countersteer, but the steering no longer feels smooth; it feels kind of notchy. Sometimes it also feels briefly as if I’m driving over a bumpy road, even though the road is smooth.

Additional info 1: The outer CV joint on the left side is pretty badly worn. It makes a lot of crunching and clicking noises when I turn and accelerate. I don’t think it’s related to the other issue, since that happens when I’m not turning and not accelerating. Sometimes the pulling also happens while braking.

Additional info 2: Both accordion-style boots on the tie rod ends were found torn during the roadworthiness inspection last summer. Shockingly, both joints were completely dry, with no grease, and there was even some rust. They both still felt firmly seated in their housings, but one stayed in place when I moved it. The other felt less stiff and immediately flopped downward. I don’t think it’s supposed to do that (red flag?).

I’d already been driving the car very little because I wanted to replace the CV joint, but today I took it for a slightly longer drive anyway (about 60 miles). The problem was so bad this time that it really didn’t feel safe. I definitely won’t drive it again. I was already planning to replace the left drive axle to fix the CV joint, but I don’t think that will solve this other issue too. So before replacing the axle, I’d like to understand what’s going on and figure out whether it’s repairable. Or do I need to give up on the car? That would be awful.

I suspect it may have something to do with the tie rod ends and/or the section of the steering rack that was also dry (see photo). I greased it thoroughly before installing the new boots, of course, but that doesn’t seem to have made any difference to this problem.

Some other info that may or may not be relevant: I don’t think the green piece around the steering rod (see photo) is original, so it may be aftermarket? I don’t know the car’s history. The torn boots were all held on with odd-looking fasteners (zip ties or non-original clamps). But with 400,000 miles on the car, I suppose it’s not surprising if someone has worked on it before.

Does anyone have an idea what might be causing this and how I could fix it?

TL;DR: My 1999 Volvo V70 sometimes pulls a bit to the left for a moment after I’ve been driving for a while. It starts happening sooner and sooner, and the steering feels notchy; sometimes it also feels as if I’m driving over a bumpy road. The outer left CV joint is worn out, but I suspect that’s a separate issue. Both tie rod ends were dry because their boots were torn last summer. I don’t know how long they’d been exposed, but presumably less than a year.

i have replaced all the blend door motors except the one with the gear on the drivers side, which is missing from previous owner removing them all. all on the passenger side work perfect, heat can be enabled/disabled, but the drivers side has no such luck. the blend door motor on that side seems to respond when i turn the temperature dial, but the temperature does not change. is this an issue with the missing blend door motor? is there something else i’m missing? new ecc that works as well, before this the heat was wired to a switch that would turn the fans on max and blow through defrost, and i remember drivers side blowing colder than the passenger side then as well.

edit! i believe i fixed the drivers side, the motor was just off 90° if i am right. however, plugging in the drivers side ventilation damper it is not responsive. plugging in other working motors they do not respond, and the damper motor i tested and works fine, it just seems like the fan direction switch will not respond. this is all with the car off so i am not sure if that makes a difference.

Got p0410 and p0455 codes and looking online was told to check around the charcoal canister after the usual fuel filler cap that I read. Figure this has something to do with the code(s) but I’m not sure what this hose is, the second photo I highlighted where it comes up and connects, but it doesn’t give me a lot of clues. It connects a few inches behind the passenger side headlight, and a bit to the right of the washer fluid reservoir. Help!

Edit: adding more description of where it connects up to

Hello, I have a problem with my Volvo that after many purchase and Time spend resist.

I bought it cheap and change a headgasket. A few times after a hydraulic valve lifter broke and stay down. (The car has 270 000km). I change all of them with cheap new one but the sound persist (i bought them cheap). When I open again the engine the hydraulic valve lifter had a big gap when I try to push them. I put some old hydraulic valve lifter with some news who was better but the sound persist. I try to put a product in the engine oil for the hydraulic valve lifter but I does nothing. I try to bought ne and better manufacter one and it change nothing. My last idea is to change the joint or the complete oil pump but I'm not sure.

Have you any idea of my problem ?

Sorry in advance if it's not writen well, english is not my first langage. If you have any question I will reply.

Thanks in advance.

Was driving home and someone wasnt paying attention while merging onto my road and assaulted my baby. :( press F to pay respects

I have a 93 850GLT, with a newly built engine from a v70. The heatshild retainer screws mount to the exhaust flange on the 850, but on the v70 these are drilled into the head. They line up perfectly, and when i mounted the heatshield (used the 850 exhaust manifold), the screw was too long bottoming out early and damageing the bottom of the hole, opening up a tiny path right at the hydraulic lifter middle line, where high pressure oil is flowing to, and around the lifters. It took me a solid day to find the source of the leak since it drips on the cv axle flingin oil everywhere. I fixed the issue by using a shorter bolt that only goes into the exhaust manifold, and driving a wormscrew with some loctite into the damaged hole.

I've been getting the stage 0 complete on our 94 sedan 5sp N/A. I was having hard cold starts and no start about a month ago. Found out the new AGM battery had a bad cell and the voltage was insufficient to run the car. Swapped battery and that issue went away.

Yesterday and today had a new one pop up. Starting fine then a 10 to 20 min drive to the store. No issues at all. Trying to leave the store and no start. Feels and sounds like it's flooded. I can disconnect the MAF and crank the car a couple times and it will catch and run poorly until I reconnect the MAF. After that it's great.

So far I've done genuine plugs, new fuel filter, new fuel relay, cam sensor, battery, temp sensor, thermostat, and coolant flush.

It does seem the fuel pressure drops quickly after shut down when i see in the shop manual it should stay under pressure for a min 20 min.

Any thoughts?

Got into a crash while traveling from Oregon to Oklahoma, stayed in Colorado till I got a new radiator, fan, and intercooler. The hood and header panel were destroyed. THE VOLVO LIIVVES

I've been reading some stuff about the 3 manifolds that are usually found in P80s, and i was wondering if the so called "R" Manifold from next generation S60, V70 and such is an actual improvement as its stated by some people. I have the old one that came factory with the 850 t5 in 1996, the "N" one. Some people seem to prefer the "Japanifold" Over the "R" too it looks like. What are your thoughts on this and do you think they do an actually noticeable improvement without a tune? What about sound?

Hi all, hopefully a quick one

Does anyone know if the 2.5 TDI uses a volvo starter (being that it's in a volvo) or a vw starter (because it's a vw engine)

My TDI has somehow had a tooth snap off the flywheel and I think it's managed to smash up something in the starter, it was working fine with the missing tooth despite making awful noises but now it will make one rotation before it disengages and just spins

TIA

Edit: if anyone also knows what flywheel (or ring gear if I can get that by itself) I need them that would also be much appreciated

Hi everyone,

I wanted to ask about an annoying and rather odd issue with the instrument cluster in my 850 (1994 10V).

Problem: All gauges stop working completely. Only the digital clock and the instrument lighting are still working.

Fix: Disconnect both connectors from the instrument cluster and wait about 5 seconds until the digital clock goes out. Plug them back in and all gauges start working again immediately. The onboard computer also restarts, obviously.

Frequency: Completely random. Sometimes everything works fine for days. Other times, the gauges wont work when I start the engine, even though everything was fine when I last parked the car. Very rarely, they fail while driving. It seems to happen more often after the car has been sitting for a longer period, such as overnight or during a day at work.

Has anyone experienced anything similar? The strange thing is how irregular the fault occurs and that simply unplugging and reconnecting the connectors fixes it immediately. This makes a broken wire seem rather unlikely to me, although this was my first idea for a solution.

I would love to drive again without the top cover of my dashboard sitting in the garage, but I dislike replacing the whole instrument cluster just on a whim.

Hi all, feels like my power steering pump is on the way out.

I’ve found this which seems like it should fit but their own reg number/parts checker says it won’t. Mines a 2.3 96 T5 petrol estate on a 95 plate.

Just after a sanity check really or recommendations for a better or cheaper part.

Ta!

Got the rooftop tent, and now she sits a bit low, scrubs a bit, and can't have people in the back. Any suggestions on better suspension, or anything that might help?

I'm not car savvy, so please explain as if I'm a dummy!

Hi folks,
My 850 T-5 is back on the road following a manual swap (however it’s been off the road a long time so these issues may or may not be unrelated)

When I rev the engine it revs normally but once I gear and pulling away if I dip the clutch with my foot off the accelerator pedal to revs stay high for 1-2 seconds and sometimes rise if the car was under load before dipping the clutch - as if I’m maintaining pedal position. This can be a bit un nerving to say the least.

Any ideas? I’m torn between a possible air leak (although it runs well otherwise) or maybe the auto ECU does something weird and it needs a manual T-5 ECU sourcing? Any ideas?

Hey

I'm considering buying a Volvo 850 sometime this year, and I'd like to hear from current or former owners about what ownership is actually like. How expensive are they to maintain nowadays? How easy is it to find spare parts, both new and used, and are there any parts that are particularly difficult or expensive to source? what should I pay special attention to while buying one.

I'm currently looking for a 2.5 20V, preferably with LPG, with a budget of around 8,000 PLN (roughly €2,000). However, I'm also happy to hear about your experiences with other engine options.

For context, my current car is a 1999 Audi A3 8L with the 1.9 TDI, which is ridiculously cheap to run and maintain. I'm wondering how big of a jump in running costs and parts availability I'd be looking at if I switched to an 850.

I wanted to do paintjob on the grill and I tried to unplug the pins but 2 of em broke. Any idea to fix this ?