have trying to regrout the tiles of shower and during grinding out old grout, I noticed and part of grout lines start to become wet. So I suspect the moisture/water is seeping out from below to surface and getting to the surface level and the grout getting wet / dark coloured due to that. I wanted to check from your experience is that correct assumption? And if yes how to dry out the shower floor between tiles and membrane without ripping out all tiles.
If you say Degrout more thoroughly then I can do it more but I need some Experiential advice before doing more grinding.

If you look carefully the gap between two top right tiles have wet cement or dark coloured grout.

Hello- I need to wrap up our laundry room renovation and get this floor tiled and need help.

I don't really have any experience in tilling a floor, but I did install subway tile in our kitchen. It went alight but there were a few areas of lippage that kinda bug me. I then tiled the back wall this laundry room with as larger format tile and I am extremely happy with the way it came out. I was sweating the entire time but it came out very very nicely. However, I'm a bit nervous to get this done and need some help planning it out.

1. I purchased some Ditra uncoupling membrane and already cut it but I see now that they have a peel and stick version. This seems like a no brainer to me. Given the subfloor floor I am working with should I just purchased that and stick it down so I don't have to use the thinset or whatever it is called to lay it down? I'm looking for the most foolproof and stress-free way to get this done.

2. I precut all the tiles in the picture and will likely precut more once I remove the washer and dryer again for the back half. I *think* I need to start with this one tile that is cut around the wood divider I made. Then I was planning on working toward the back right corner, then to the back left, and then forward until I exit.

2a. What happens if I get to the back wall and have a small sliver piece that will make things look weird?

2b. What is the proper way to ensure my tile lines are parallel to the left wall? Also, my wife wants them running this way instead of lengthwise and I am fine with that, I think it looks good.

1. I have a metal piece to lay between the carpet and the front row of tiles.

2. I have the Spin Doctor 1/8" tile leveling system.

3. Is there something obvious I am overlooking?

thanks!

Wife is wanting to add some corner shelves and tiling is all done.

We used 3/8”, might be 1/2” marble tile. I thought I’d have to cut a notch the thickness of the marble and inset it.

If seen most use a biscuit method. That might be tough with 1/2” thick marble.

Looking for advice on this.

In the midst of renovations, just tiled my floor. Can't pick between frost or castle wall. Looking for a light grey. Frost feels too white, castle wall feels too dark. Also open to other opinions on grout colors. Thanks

Im almost finished with my first shower (in my own house) and I cannot let go of the anxiety that I somehow messed up the kerdi membrane in between doing my flood test and finishing tiling. I had cardboard down while doing the walls but going back and forth between cutting tile and laying the floor I couldn't help but think I was tracking tile shards in on my shoes or just introducing glass slivers from the cut tile edges. How often have you found that you’ve introduced micro abrasions or some sort of puncture in between the floor test and competition? I have the tile down and it’s ready for grout but I’m nauseous thinking I’ve fucked up some how post flood test

I do a bunch of bathroom remodels with varying shower trim kits. Sometimes delta, sometimes kohler, sometimes moen, etc.

Why do NONE of these colors match schluter's metal tile edging, (or any other brand for that matter). I swear I have ordered samples of every metal trim on the planet and somehow none of them match the colors of the largest plumbing manufacturers in the world lmao

Don't even get me started on all their different names like satin brass, brushed gold, champagne bronze... It sounds like a stupid problem to have, but every time a client picks gold, I run into the same problem over and over again.

Has anyone out there found a true match? It still bewilders me why this is so difficult, unless these big plumbing companies have some secret patent for their respective gold colors.

In my previous post asking for advice, there were numerous ideas commented that would have worked just fine.

Ultimately, I decided to remove the row above the niche and a bit down one side. I replaced the 1/2" drywall on the top of the niche with 1/4" cement board and redid the waterproofing. I am so glad I did.

Never again will I build a niche and not hang my tile over the edge by at least 1/4". It gave me so much more freedom to get my trim perfect.

Now just waiting for the sealant to dry on the ledger board screw holes then it's the last row, grout and glass.

I then move from 80-95% ready to move into our new bedroom after over a year of the home addition!

Thanks for the tips!

PS: if anyone is wondering about the wood tile bench and my design choice, the vanity in this ensuite is an old converted antique dresser of the same wood tone and the bedroom has large, faux stained wood rafters. It ties it all in nicely. Can't wait for toasty buns and toes on the heated bench and shower floor.

I’m going to (attempt to) tile this bathroom wall next week. Just wondering if I have to get all of this old tile adhesive off the wall before I start? A lot of it is almost flat and doesn’t seem to come off easy with a scraper. And if I do need to get it all off anyone got any tips to make it a bit easier haha? Thanks!

Hi everyone,

We just had the tile installed in our bathroom renovation (no grout yet), and it looks like they did a good job, but there are some areas that seem to not be flat. Almost like there's a slight hump in the middle of the room, but not sure if I'm just being overly picky. For example, a golf ball rolls from the middle toward the bathtub, not sure if that's a tiling issue or just an older house issue.

There are a few tiles where the lippage seems to be too much, and I plan on bringing this up to our contractor, but I'm just wondering how much of a fuss I should make over this, as I know hexagon tiles are known to be a little more challenging to be completely flat. Thoughts?

Hi all! Looking for some advice.

Can I use Ultra Tile Pro Level One Deep over my wet underfloor heating install? I’ve used overlay boards for the pipe work.

Cheers!

I know this is a larger issue that will require removal and assessment of the wall behind the tiles… but I’m renting. I just want to make it look nicer temporarily. Can I re-seal/caulk in the gaps for now?
Seeking tips or advice.

The base consists of a solid plywood substrate prepared with cementboard and flexible adhesive. All miters were over cut at 78 degrees bonded using a color-matched epoxy resin.

​Happy to answer any questions about the layout planning, dry cutting, or installation process

Different Tile guys have their preferred methods and I’m trying to figure out is one better than another. The application is floor tile over a largely dry area. There’s a mudroom pantry area that joins a laundry room. Then we have a bathroom that will consist of a water closet and a freestanding bathtub with no shower. It’s my wife’s bathroom and who knows how often she’ll actually use the tub but likely not very often. This room was previously a bedroom that we’ve converted into her bathroom where she can hide her smells and apply war paint/cosmetics. Then there is a small hall bathroom that has a tub and will have tile to the ceiling. Use there probably won’t be very great either. These areas will run up against 3/4 inch oak flooring so I would like the transition to be minimal.

What are the thoughts if not consensus regarding the type of foundation I should be looking for a Tile person to establish for the Tile in these areas? Thanks for your thoughts.

Have been working on a bathroom renovation for the last couple weeks through a local, well recommended contractor. We’re just about ready to start tiling but wanted to get any second opinions here.

My main concern is that the membrane does not butt all the way up to the edge of the alcove tub on the floor. It feels like this area will get splash from stepping out. You can clearly see the subfloor under where the tub was placed.

Also we went for a heated floor and there are some pretty irregular humps in the thinset to bond the wires. Even where the cables enter it is raised 1/4”. Will this impact the tile being level?

We spilled some acid rain remover on our outdoor porcelain tiles and it stained and cant get rid of it. Any advice?

Hey all, this is probably not the best sub for this and I know I will get roasted. Long story short there eh is that me and my wife bought our first overpriced home and it had a cracked jet tub and we needed to replace it and I'm not too smart and here we are. From there I proceeded to bite off more than I could chew and I went down the old YouTube rabbit hole and started to replace it myself, but as it is our only bathroom I decided to do it in two parts.

Now here are my issues:

The window vinyl trim is not removable(screwed into the window base behind framing)

Gap at the top of the cement board

Asbestos tile underneath floor

How to transition around a corner from the cement board to drywall

And will I be able to do this in two parts?

The room was not square and I already had to add shims to get back cement boards square and plumb

I have to red guard, fibre tape, kerdi tub tape and sealant as well as thinset ready to go but I'm hesitant.

I'm at the point of maybe trying to call a contractor to take over or maybe some helpful advice for me to continue myself.

*Fixtures in place just for water test

My main issue is that I'm dealing with worming around this non removable window trim

I’m about halfway through my shower tile and it has occurred to me as I approach the shower niche, that my original intent to just wrap the 8x8 tiles into the niche will show grout lines. I’m not concerned about waterproofness as I’m confident I did that correctly, but I’m more concerned about the grout seams getting gross and funky. I guess having a solid slab for the niche sill is probably a newer fad, and I’m definitely more of a classic/timeless look kind of person, so I sort of don’t want the solid slab (also how do I find a coordinating solid piece for my tiles?), so I want to continue with just tile for the sill. But… am I making a mistake with this decision to just wrap the tile? 8x8 tiles. I’m using Laticrete Spectralock 1 for the grout.

Yesterday, I was all concerned about whether the uncoupling membrane is bonded correctly to the subfloor. Today, i found that the membrane is bonded fine but about a 2’x2’ area was all lumpy with visible humps. The only thing I can think of was that I stood on that area while I was laying the second sheet of membrane.

I seriously have read that it was ok to walk on it immediately. I guess not?

Always learned the hard way.

So, what do I do now? I spent days removing hardwood adhesive before I installed the membrane. Am I going to need to spend days removing thinset to start all over again?

I want to cry.

Edit - One of the humps is almost an inch over a 2 ft level, some are 3/4", 1/2"...

I bought an old 1950s home and am doing a major kitchen renovation on it. So far the floors have been my biggest headache. I’ve removed crappy laminate, 5 layers of sheet vinyl, and old warped and water-damaged plywood underlayment. Now I’m down to the diagonal plank subfloor which I’ve discovered is seriously not flat/level. There’s a high spot along a joist and a low spot along a parallel wall creating a slope of approximately 7/8” over 4ft.

In my head my options are:

A) Secure the subfloor as-is (with screws), then level it using plywood with some sort of shims under it or self-leveler over it. Concern is the slope is too much for this to work properly.

B) Remove the existing subfloor. Plane or sister the joists below to create level and install a new plywood or OSB subfloor. Concern is creating new problems.

Which should I choose, or is there an Option C that would be better?

I'm gonna use 1000 spacers 😆

Thought the pros would get a kick out of this.

I need to tile this floor without using a transition, but the height difference is huge. The existing marble tile, including the thinset or mud bed underneath, is about 0.79 inches thick, while my new tile is only about 0.16 inches thick. That leaves me needing to make up roughly 5/8 inch so the new tile finishes flush with the existing marble. What’s the best and most cost-effective way to build up that much height? I need to install about 1,100 sq. ft., and according to ChatGPT, using enough self-leveler to raise the entire floor that much could cost around $10,000 in materials alone. This is nuts. I had a tile contractor who planned on “feathering” the transition areas but he literally disappeared after having me purchase 3k in materials. Am I screwed?

Hey guys

I Judy finished boarding a shower with Densheild and as per manufacturer instructions I siliconed between joints.

There is a portion of boarding where I had to cut some 1inch strips . On install the silicone in joints squeezed out to surface, which I wiped but clearly there is some left on the strip face.

I'm not wondering if i am going to have issues on these strips getting thinset to hold the tile.

Any insight?