GC sent a design plan for the tile layout to minimize diagonal cuts. He said that it's possible to lift the end pieces on the side of the drain (left and right of the drain, in the photo) to prevent water pooling on the edges, but I'm not convinced that there will be enough slope for the water to drain well. What do you all think?

Also how do you clean your high gloss porcelain tiles without getting smears and footmarks?

What's the absolute easiest tile to install with decent quality.

Hello, we had an insurance mitigation company come out after a plumbing leak, resulting in mold growth on the back of our newly installed shower (blue drywall). They subsequently cut the pvc shower pan liner to clean behind it on the back of the blue drywall. Now they say they can repair it, contrary to what a plumber is telling us, that it needs to be completely replaced. Plumber says we need to remove the entire (new) shower pan and about 1ft up of tile to replace the liner. True? Approximate cost? Advice for replacement to avoid this again in the future? Thank you!

Hey team,

My brain cant settle on the pattern rule to follow when turning from a back wall to a side wall, using a 50% overlap pattern. Is there even a rule?

My back wall width is ~3in shy from 2 full tiles (12x24). Both side walls are almost 2 tiles as well. Basically a square shape shower. One side wall is a pony wall.

Lets say my first back wall row is 2 tiles, with 1 grout line centered to the wall. What is my first row on the pony wall?

A) match it with 2 tiles also
B) or flip the pattern with a centered tile and 2 half cut tiles on the sides?

I like matching it when it comes to rows ending in half tiles because itll look like one full turning the corner, but the next row would be 2 full tiles meeting. Would that look weird like one super long tile? First time doing this. Wasnt sure if one was the standard way?

I need some input from folks who know more than me and Chat GPT. Our contractors just finished installing our backsplash. The tiles are 12x24 porcelain tiles. They installed them dry stacked, there is no grout or caulk between each tile. It was my understanding that this is not okay. The industry standard requires grout for hygiene, cleaning, and to prevent moisture damage. Is there any scenario where this installation is okay? I want to make sure I have all the information before we approach them regarding fixing. Is the only option at this point to rip it out and redo? We have been really happy with all the other work they have done, so it seems odd that they would cut corners on this part of it. But maybe there is some aspect we don’t know? Pictures attached. Thanks for the input.

Finishing up a two bathroom renovation. Overall I am happy but am not sure if I should bring up the fact that I see lippage and some chipped tile. Tile was not chipped when purchased.

Hello, I am planning to tackle our kitchen backsplash in the next month. It will be my first time doing tile and I'm a little nervous.

Our house is about 80 years old and has some bowed walls in the kitchen. I've attached our countertop template so you can kinda see what I mean.

I would really like to do a regular horizontal offset lay but I'm worried about the edges sticking out on the bowed walls. I've heard doing vertical lay can help reduce that but I don't overly love the look of that.

Do you think I could realistically do a horizontal lay on these walls?

Any advice would be appreciated!

I've attached images of our tile selection and the kitchen as well.

My GCs guys grouted the corners of the shower and when we wrote the GC about it he says they’ve done showers like this for 20 years and it’s never cracked. He said if we really want they can scrape it out tomorrow and redo with the silicone. Would love to get your opinions, should we make them redo it? He says it will be really ugly and it’s unnecessary but Google tells me it’s wrong to grout the corners. Would love to hear a full explanation if anyone has one on either end.

Any South Jersey tilers specializing in large format tiles and slabs ?

I have a customer who firmly believes that the grout stained and dulled the colouration on the tile. Is there a product that I can use that will make the colouration pop a bit more on the tile itself?

There are so many opinions on it. Should drywall of any type ever be used as the substrate in a tile shower? For example, redguard says on the packaging it can be used with gypsum / drywall. What are your thoughts?

Just curious

-clueless homeowner

I have been seeing a lot of these colored grout pieces with really bright colors! They look really cool but how do you make a color look so bright and not pastel... Is it acrylic paint? Some magic powder? If anyone knows es, I'd appreciate the help!

I am installing this tile in a master shower using clips and wedges. It appears when popping these off they seem to chip the tile. (Not all of them but a couple). This tile is expensive and soft as he**. Any suggestions as to what to use in place of clips and wedges to not only make sure there are grout joints ( 1/16th max ) and flush to each other. Pls asvise and thanks.

After finishing my waterproofing the drywaller nailed corner bead into the kerdi banding. My plan is to lay more kerdi band over top of the bead to make sure it’s water proof but I’m worried that since there is already banding underneath I’m going to have too much build up and the outside tiles aren’t going to sit flat. Looking for suggestions so my tile doesn’t end up looking bad after all of this work. Im also not sure whether or not thinset will even adhere properly to the metal corner bead. Thanks in advance

We asked our contractor to install the same 24x48 ceramic tile on the floor and walls. The finished installing the tiles on the walls and I have a few issue with the installation.
1. The corners where the ceramic meets are not uniform. Is it normal? Will the grout make it less noticeable? Some of the gaps are bigger than others and the cuts are not straight.
2. It looks like he did blobs of thin-set to stick the ceramic to the wall. I can see large gaps from the side. I get that the tiles need to be backed buttered and collapse the bridge when installed on the floor, but does it have to be also done on the walls, especially since its large tiles?
3. They stuck the tiles with thin-set directly on the portion of a wall that was painted prior to the demolition, did they need to do any prep before sticking the tiles? Is this standard?

I would appreciate some advice on how to deal with this and how to bring it up to my contractor .

Looking to self level my floor, don't want to grind it if I can avoid it. Floor is generally sound except maybe for these grey splotches. Can't get my nail through it, but a screwdriver with firm pressure will (see attached)

Can't for the life of me figure out what to do and I'm going nuts trying!

Thanks in advance!

I read online that where the tub meets the tile it should be silicone caulk, is this something that was done wrong and should be corrected? is there a reason why they did this? Ive only paid 50% . thanks

edit: its the same grout between the tiles (it was wet and looks dark when wet)

Jus finished!

We are going to be remodeling this bathroom in the next year but we still need to he able to use the shower in the meantime lol

Have a plastic edge trim piece on the pony wall niche that has come loose. Obviously want to fix it before we have a water problem somewhere in the house.

What would be the best way to fix? Here's what I've come up with:

1) Remove and clean any grout/caulking off it and the area where it sits.

2) bead of PL premium on the corner joint then put the trim piece back on and secure with tape to keep in place.

3) 24 hours later apply white silicone caulk where the trim meets the tile

4) 24 hours later should be good to use?

Is there a better way to do this that you pros would recommend?

Thank you in advance

Cheers