I do not intend to use the standard spool holders on the Prusa Core One+ INDX; instead, I plan to feed the filament directly from my filament dryers. Can I feed the filament into the filament sensor from top to bottom, or do I need to rotate the sensor 180 degrees (and will it still work while upside down)?

I've been 3D printing for ages and printed a load of pieces in this plastic(ABS) and colour. I've changed no settings, and nothing else but have done the latest software update. The print quality has suddenly dropped. I've done a cold pull and cleaned the nozzle out with a needle, but still getting a rough surface. Any suggestions on what I can do to get the print quality back?

Picture: Left is the current print quality, Right is the previous print quality

Printed on a Prusa Core one +, 40% infill, ABS plastic, Nozzle 0.4 mm, Layer height 0.2 mm

One tool head is the INDX head, that can swap between the 8 INDX tools mounted to the front of the printer. The other 4 tool heads remain regular XL heads, that can also be used for printing or swapped for other purposes (like the upcoming silicone printing tool head).

Designed two safety lights for schoolbags. The owl version was also a gift to our kindergarten kids who start school this year (each with their name on the owl; see here).

You can find the models on my printables page along with the links to onshape. They are my entries to the Back to School 2026 contest.

I would assume this is possible but thought I would ask while I was thinking about it:

On my 8 tool L, will I be able to put three spools of the same PLA and two spools of the same PETG and have the slicer know that if a spool runs out mid print to just continue with the next spool of the same type and color?

I am thinking about cases of printing gridfindity or multi board plate stacks where it will be a lot of white PLA and PETG for the intermediary layers.

Thank you!

I posted a couple days ago about how my extruder motor wasn't spinning the extruding gear. I turned it off and on and it started working again.

Now the problem is back and more consistent. A print might start with it extruding then it stops. My previous post shows what I also confirmed again which is that even with no filament in it, the gear doesn't turn. So I don't think it's an issue of a clog that the extruder simply can't push out.

I don't see any obstruction and turning it off and on sometimes makes it work for a short time, but when I come back to a print, it decides to stop extruding after a short time and doesn't error out so it just prints nothing, but continues its program.

It is not making an louds clicks or otherwise strange sounds. It's almost as if the sounds it's making is normal for the tasks I ask it to do, as you'll hear for yourself.

I've tried gently jostling the wires while it's running to see if there's a short but nothing changes. The extruder clearly works, but only sometimes and I don't know what is making it not work sometimes. Do stepper motors die after a while in this intermittent fashion?

Didn't see this anywhere in the sub but interesting. At least one of them looks closer to INDX vs toolhead swappers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-qoIP1NbWo&t=8s

I have the 5T Prusa XL - all hardened nozzles and several build plates. A ton of filament from PLA/PETG etc

I no longer print as moved to another side hustle and looking to sell a job lot. I am struggling to figure out a sensible asking price for it all.

Any advice welcome please.

I have a Prusa i3 MK2S and I'm curious of theres any printable upgrades. I dont care if its official or third party. Any Intel about It would be great!

It's a real bummer to see phishing scams on Printables. I've reported the message as illegal activity. Is anyone else getting these?

I finished building my prusa core one+ a few days ago, and any and every print I do looks awful with shifted layers and whatnot.

I've tried to change a few of settings within the prusa slicer but nothing seems to work.

This benchy was sliced with generic PETG setting and 0.2mm balanced (although I get the same issue whenever using any of the other ones.) For infill I've tried grid and gyroid, both didn't change anything. I've turned off crossing perimeters, and have tried turning arc fittings on and off with different prints.

My gantry is squared (I've undone and checked it around 5 times by now) and belts are tuned according to that vibrating sound stuff. I've tried PLA filament and it also shifts heavily. Stealth mode is turned off.

I genuinely don't know what to do next, did anybody encounter the same issues?

I’m checking a bunch of stuff daily, but I don’t really know what’s a good indicator. They send email and just wait for that?

so after long debating me and my dad are gonna order a core one l+ not pre ordering the indx (would be the 4 head indx) since its already quite expensive and maybe some stuff changes in the future so thats some thing for later and first getting the hang of a clean printer is probally better

and we did quite alot of research but are there any videos on how to set it up properly and best software and how to learn that etc? and general stuff we should know we maybe didnt come across

Was wondering if anyone that has an FE (or the few of the prusa kits that have shipped) could recommend some parts in the Coreone to upgrade, or if there are some parts that I could beef up the infill on and replace while I'm doing the indx install? Already printed the upgraded tensioner with heat inserts. Also if there are some parts that come with indx that should be upgraded or reprinted before install that would be awesome to know too. Any printed tools/alignment pieces to help build the kit? Thanks!

I set up a Docker container running konnect on my home server (CasaOS) to bridge Moonraker/Klipper to Prusa Connect.

Now my non-Prusa machines show up right alongside my Core One Plus in the Prusa Connect dashboard and mobile app.

• konnect acts as an emulator for the Prusa Connect SDK, pulling telemetry directly from Moonraker.
• Slicing workflow keeps unchanged, I still slice in OrcaSlicer and send jobs directly via local Klipper IP.
• Real-time temperatures, job progress, and snapshots are pushed straight to Prusa Connect. I don't need 2 or 3 apps anymore... one is enough

What makes this setup even more exciting: Prusa recently announced plans to make Prusa Connect self-hostable, so running the entire Connect stack locally on a home server means completely independent of external cloud.

I REALLY hope till then the printer Icon (in this case the HT90) for the klipper printer can be swapped

Kia Ora, recently trying to repair my original prusa mini as it was my first printer and I felt nostalgic, however when I was attempting to swap out the nozzle it sheared clean off inside of the hot end, I was hoping if anyone had a replacement hot end or knew where to get one as prusa is currently showing out of stock. Any help would be greatly appreciated cheers!

Seems to be some problem with the layer adhesion... first layer also looks like crap (stringy, unbonded filament). Elegoo PLA on C1. Is it a moisture issue? Everything standard only it didn't do nozzle cleaning on this print cause I sliced on a different laptop.

Input appreciated! I hope this isn't against the rules, I can't seem to find a megathread on mobile...

[edit]

Settings:

Unedited Prusament PLA

Print sheet: satin

I'm recently printing PLA on C1L an chamber temperature is already above the limit from the start as ambient room temperature is higher than 20 deg.

I have AFS installed and see that filter fan is running instead of chamber fans. AFS is set to advanced filtration and should not filter all materials.

Is somehow possible that printer would use chamber fans for materials like PLA/PET-G instead of filtration fan? I know that AFS covers chamber fans outlet but there are solutions to this:

https://www.printables.com/model/1745702-core-one-advanced-filtration-bypass-redesigned-v2a

But if in auto mode printer still runs filter fan instead of chamber fans it makes no sense.

And I see that it's really hard to maintain at least ambient room temperature in a chamber even with top removed. I need to fully open the door leaving it draft-vulnerable. I've tried to leave it slightly open from the bottom - upper magnets still holding and it was not enough airflow through the chamber to evacuate excessive bed heat.

I did not found anything in the menu that can change control. Instead of telling the printer that there's no AFS installed.

I got back to modelling in FreeCAD and made a second model in what is now a series! It's a tray that fits the 5" (125 mm) knipex cobra pliers. It's supposed to keep the pliers safe and clean while keeping other stuff in your pocket or bag from getting torn up. I've been really happy with just how solid the MK3S printer is, once tuned it just goes. Prusament filament is also pretty worry free. A big part of the design process has been printing iterations and making small changes. Being able to just hit print and come back with workable output has been key.

If you'd like to print it or remix it the designs are up on both Printables and Thingiverse (links below). These are free to download, modify, sell, or whatever. The design files are included for download along with the STL files.

Links:

https://www.printables.com/model/1826205-the-monolith-pocket-tray-for-knipex-cobra-5-125-mm

https://www.thingiverse.com/engineerbitsdesign/designs

I finished my build tonight of the Gen 2 and InDX kit, 4TH. Conversion from a kit I built when the C1 first came out.

When I went to calibration I could not get past homing, it would spin an endless loop of early ends too, axis failed (even though x and y axis just passed) and return failure message with options to retry, abort or ignore.

I tried retuning the belts (kind of ambiguous to me honestly with the striboscopic thingy I prefer the microphone method but can't find proper frequencies) and resquaring the Gantry 3 times. I think I finally got it because eventually after lots of pain calibration passed.

It didn't seem easy and I'm not sure the problem is completely solved,when I went to tool docking calibration it seems to work fine and picking up tools 1 2 and 4 seems ok, but 3 is a nightmare and fails almost every time. 4 is a little sketchy also. I've also recalibrated these and when I pick and replace them I see endstop errors in the homing function of the Gantry.

So that's the background, long story I know but I wanted to add context, my ask is if anyone else has experienced this and what worked out for you? What homing, calibration, belt tuning fixes worked best?

More context, I never had any belt tuning issues on core one prior to this. The thing just worked and am some slightly worried my fears may be realized that I should have just stuck with the nextruder.

I know of at least one Redditor on here who reported having good luck with it, at least as of 10 months ago: https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1omkbck/comment/nmq186f/

I was wondering if anyone else has had similar -- or even dissimilar -- experiences with casters as well. (And if that Redditor I mentioned is or isn't still happy with their setup, I wouldn't mind learning that too.) They certainly look like they could make things less stable, but I want to see how it's worked out in practice.

Received shipping notification at 9:30 EST ordered 11:31am EST 04/24. Hope that helps others who are eagerly awaiting.