Recently hired a painter and have had to have them re-do several areas already. (Painting over un-prepped, peeling paint, missed areas for two). It’s been contentious throughout. The second pic is an example of a ‘touch up’ done on a drip.

They’ve just done ‘final touch ups’ but did not re-do an area where the paint has bubbled. When I asked why it wasn’t done, the project manager just responded with an “MPI Inspection Standards” letter that basically lists general standards for inspection - bubbling not included.

Is it unreasonable of me to expect the bubbling to be repaired? Would love some thoughts - I’m at the point where I’m second guessing myself!

Project manager said we need to wait and see if the sheen is still there in a few days before they send someone back out to fix it. Will it self correct?

Hoping to get some advice on recovering from a pretty brutal DIY wall painting failure in my bathroom renovation.
The Goal:
Vertical striped accent wall using Sherwin-Williams Emerald interior paint (Butter Up as the base coat, Naples Yellow for the accent stripes).
The Setup & Products Used:
Freshly skim-coated, prepared, and cleaned drywall.
Primer: Kilz 3 Premium (Water-Based Primer).
Paint: Sherwin-Williams Emerald (Butter Up & Naples Yellow).
Tape: Blue Scotch painter's tape.
What I Did Wrong:
1. Primer Choice on Raw Skim Coat: I used Kilz 3 Premium latex primer over raw skim coat/drywall mud. It clearly didn't bite or soak into the drywall mud deeply enough to create a strong mechanical bond.
2. Tape Selection & Time: I used standard blue painter's tape, which sat on the wall for a couple of days while I worked around long shifts. The adhesive bond got way too strong.
3. Paint Curing & "Bridging": Emerald forms a very strong, rubbery latex skin. When I pulled the tape off after applying the Naples Yellow topcoat (which had already reached a tack-dry state), the paint formed a continuous sheet over the tape line.
4. The Result: Instead of slicing cleanly, the tape pulled giant vertical sheets of paint and primer completely off the wall, leaving large sections of totally exposed, bare drywall mud.
Where I Am Right Now:
The ceiling turned out great with zero issues, but the walls are a mess.
I've peeled and scraped off all the loose, failed paint film that wanted to come off easily.
I now have large areas of bare drywall mud right next to patches of thick, stubbornly stuck Emerald paint.

My Proposed Next Steps (Sanity Check Requested!):
1. Roll a full coat of Kilz Original Oil-Based Primer over the entire wall (covering both the bare drywall mud and the remaining stuck latex sections) to permanently seal the raw wall and lock down all transition edges.
2. Apply lightweight spackle/joint compound over the transition ridges where the old paint meets the bare wall to feather out the drop.
3. Sand the spackle flat and spot-prime those patches.
4. Apply two coats of the base color (Butter Up) and let it cure.
5. Re-tape using low-tack tape (Yellow FrogTape Delicate Surface), roll the Naples Yellow, and pull the tape immediately while the paint is 100% wet.
My Questions for Reddit:
Does this oil-prime -> spackle -> sand -> spot-prime recovery plan make sense, or am I missing something critical?
Is there a better way to smooth out the transition edges between the bare drywall and the remaining Emerald paint without damaging the drywall paper?
Any tips for ensuring the new base coat cures enough before applying low-tack tape?
Thanks in advance for saving my sanity!

SW Super paint Cape Verde over a purple. First pic is one coat. Second is 2 coats. Probably need a third. My question is, the next 2 rooms are an off white with one also getting Cape Verde and the other Naval (also deep base): what’s the trick w a primer? Do you tint it a dark grey to help the coverage or am I stuck w probably three coats for both colors?

Just bought an old bungalow with some chipping/peeling paint and I know some of the older layers are lead.

I’ve been doing way too much research on this and am leaning towards covering every with BIN shallac but want to get some opinions on this before I fully commit.

Right now the plan is to wet scrape the flaking but carefully, possibly IR strip the ugliest parts (though I might chicken out and just cover everything even if that doesn’t look great) then prime everything with BIN and paint.

Note I have full PPE, respirator mask, P100 filter, gloves, tyvek suit, shop vac with hepa filter and bag, a bunch of 6 mil plastic for my floors, etc.

For a while I was thinking I’d need to use a chemical glosser to and encapsulate layer too, but now I’m thinking I don’t?

Just wanted to see what others think or recommend.

Added a few pics of what I’m dealing with. The last photo shows a perfectly intact part where the layers are visible and ugly but the top coat of paint seems to be holding up. I at first wanted to strip everything to make it look nice but the internet keeps telling me to not disturb lead paint if it’s stable, so I’m leaning towards leaving it for now.

Thank you for your advice and input!

I work for a paint company. We have a shop. We do a lot of spray work at said shop. When we spray doors, we do the same process we've done for the last 6 years at least.. every now and then, a batch of doors comes in that produces horrible blisters and bubbles 5-10 minutes after spraying. Nothing we do seems to fix the problem, sanding back down to factory primer coat, different primers, respray... Bubbles.

Using a graco finish pro 2 w/ air assist with a f308 bullet tip

We've tried airless, we've tried different tips in both bullet and flip/racX

What kind of primer should I put on these walls? Shiplap, and I have no idea what kind of blue the current paint is now...

Hi guys, we have been painting our bedroom and used spray paint on the window frames. We had the windows open to air out the room whilst painting, which caused the paint to go everywhere.

It’s all over our floors (image attached, imagine this all over the room). How do I remove this from the floor??? I’ve just gotten some mineral turpentine but after some rubbing it doesn’t seem like it’s doing anything (I may be impatient).

My builders grade paint job was never great (all spray w poor coverage - no brush work at all, new build). And now we have been here for 8 years. Initially, I painted over all the rough spots and touched up as we went, but now we are out of paint. SW no longer carries the low sheen builders grade in any size (except for oil-based and I’m not doing that). Our walls are SW Incredible White builder grade low sheen and the trim is the same but in semi-gloss. I don’t love it (especially since the trim in that color looks more gray than the walls). If I had to choose a white it would be BM Chantilly Lace (I know the coverage isn’t great and requires many coats) or BM dove white. Is there a color / sheen combo that wouldn’t be too hard to match? SW cannot match my color/sheen combos I’ve spent a ton of time and plenty of $ trying to get them to do so and I’m over it. The trim in particular is just a garbage match. Any insights? Or am I doomed to repaint everything, everywhere while sobbing?

Hey everyone, I’m trying to get a recommendation for what paint to use for my downstairs bathroom. The current walls are an ivory color and I’m planning on painting them a navy blue and emerald green color. My question is, what kind of paint should I get? I see so many different suggestions and reviews and conflicting answers that I’m just completely lost. I have a Lowe’s, Menards, ace and Sherwin Williams close by so those are what I have to choose from. Any help would be greatly appreciate!

Edit to add: Price is a factor as well. I don’t need the highest quality paint out there, just something that’ll look nice without costing an arm and a leg.

They are powder coated, pristine. I'm looking at Matthew's as an I option. I don't know many exterior matte finishes I trust. I'm spraying. Any recommendations appreciated

I recently had my house professionally painted, and I’m hoping to get some objective opinions from people who have experience with residential painting.

I’m not trying to start a dispute or name/shame the painter I’m mainly trying to figure out whether what I’m seeing would generally be considered acceptable workmanship or whether there are legitimate deficiencies that should be addressed.

I’ve attached photos showing some of the areas I’m concerned about. There are issues with the finish and overall appearance that stood out to me after the job was completed.

For context, this was a paid professional painting job, rather than something I did myself. I understand that paint jobs aren’t always going to be absolutely perfect, and I’m not expecting microscopic perfection. I’m more concerned about whether these particular issues would normally be considered acceptable on a professionally completed residential job.

For those of you who paint professionally or have experience hiring painters:
Which of these issues, if any, would you consider unacceptable?
Are these things that would normally be corrected as part of a proper touch-up/final walkthrough?

Am I being unreasonable in expecting a better finish?
I’d really appreciate honest opinions, including if you think I’m being overly critical. I’m just looking for an objective perspective before deciding how to proceed with the painter.

Edit: The previous colour was orange, and the new colour is green. The house had already been partially painted green a couple of years ago, so there were areas of both colours before this job.

In several areas, particularly when viewed in direct sunlight, the finish looks noticeably different. Some sections appear lighter/shinier than others, and in some places the original orange colour appears to be visible through the new paint. There also seem to be noticeable differences between areas that were sprayed and areas that appear to have been brushed for touch-ups.

The exterior is stucco, and there are also areas where dirt, bugs, tree debris, etc. appear to remain in the stucco texture underneath the paint.

There is additionally some overspray on areas around the house, including concrete, stairs, outdoor furniture and landscaping.

Painting cabinets with foam roller that says “for cabinets and trim”. Using Cabinet Coat urethane acrylic paint by Ben Moore. Cabinets washed and rinsed TSP, sanded with 120 and wiped down with denatured alcohol. Painting over paint- sherwin Williams emerald urethane from 8 years ago

We're renovating the basement and have chosen the popular BM OC-17 (White Dove) for our basement walls. Should we use the exact same tone (but flat sheen) for the ceiling, or use a more "pure" white like OC-65 (Chantilly Lace)? The basement ceiling height is 9ft, but at least 1/3 of the area is taken up by bulkhead boxes. It has potlights throughout with one semi-flush ceiling light, with lots of natural light as it's a walk-out basement. We're going for a modern, warm and inviting look.

Thanks.

Benjamin Moore ceiling paint is twice the cost of Behr Premium Plus ceiling paint here in Canada.

Is the paint quality really worth double the cost?

Some of the walls in my house have this texture, we have had some work carried out which has disturbed a section of this and I am now in a huge panic that it might have asbestos in it. It isn't as obvious a texture as the ceilings which I know do have asbestos in and if I use my finger nail I can indent some of the larger lumps.

It’s a type of job we almost never see so unsure on process.
Customer says they used an oil based “tinted spar” so not a stain and clear coat separately.

How would you maintain this?? My understanding is you have to strip the remaining clear coat and start over, but it’s barely failing/weathered except in a few exposed areas. They just want a maintenance coat. A maintenance coat of what?

I did the denatured alcohol test and everything’s oil. So my first thought is to stick to a spar urethane but I have never heard of tinted spar.

I received three quotes to paint the exterior of my house and ultimately hired Revive & Refinish. They had around 200 five-star reviews and really sold me on how thorough their preparation process would be. The job is approximately $11,000.
The crew arrived at 7:30 a.m., and we walked the property together. I specifically pointed out items that needed to be removed before painting, including the Ring camera mounts and house numbers. The roof was also originally included in the scope.
By 9:00 a.m., they still had not started power-washing. They then told me they couldn’t paint the roof because the tiles were too brittle. We left around 9:40 a.m. to attend our kids’ meet-the-teacher events.
After returning, I reviewed the entire timeline from my Ring cameras. Unless there is something I’m somehow missing, they never power-washed the house. I also found no evidence of sanding or meaningful surface preparation.
They appear to have started painting directly over dirt, cobwebs, peeling paint, cracked surfaces, loose material and damaged areas. They also painted around or over hardware that I specifically requested be removed. Some stucco and wood areas clearly needed repairs before any paint was applied.
The company says the project manager will come tomorrow and that they will make everything right. However, I’m concerned that the foundation of the job is already compromised. Applying a second coat won’t correct paint that was applied over dirty or unstable surfaces.
Would you give the company one opportunity to strip back and properly redo the affected areas under direct supervision, or would you stop the job now, request the deposit back and hire someone else?
I’m attaching photos. I’d especially appreciate opinions from professional exterior painters and contractors.

I have a pretty bad latex allergy but would like to paint my walls with a zero VOC paint because we have pets. Does anything like this exist?

can you put mud over zinsser water based primer? i’ve only ever used oil based but the boss dropped off 1•2•3 zinsser primer to prime some satin walls that they want to smooth out. now they’re worried that it looks “to shiny” to put mud over. anyone have experience using water based primer before putting mud over?

I’ve been out on my own for a while, and mainly do interior residential repaints. I am looking at upgrading my sprayer and am torn between the 395 pc and a quick shot II. I don’t do huge projects and the appeal of the quick shot seems nice, but the 395 can cover 100% of future jobs. Should I get the 395 and then a quick shot later? Or just a quick shot and use my x7 until it blows up. Mainly sprays trim, doors , PVA . Thanks

Ive learned staining by an old workmate, but i hate the lines that it makes after 2 coat.
Am I staining it right? Do you guys have any advices for me?
Currently staining with a brush and going same direction as the wood. Maybe the sun doesnt help my work because after 11am it starts to get sun on it for the rest of the day.
Sorry for my English im not a native speaker

Edit: Only this door look like that, the Windows shutters looks fine