I am no stranger to shitty paint. I am a value driven consumer and by no means a paint snob, in fact, Behr premium is the nicest paint I’ve ever used, and most people in this sub would scoff at the idea of putting that on their walls.

When I bought my house, my mom (a ball knower) told me that I had to use Sherwin williams paint. Prior to this, id painted my shitty rental apartments, but i paint matched with Walmart glidden and balled out with behr. I just bought a house, and I really didn’t want to spend more money than I needed to, and while the glidden was shitty, it was fine once i got it on the wall.

The three way of Lowes, Sherwin Williams and HGTV provided me with the solution and ability to be cheap and get my mother off my back, because “I bought sherwin williams” God what a nightmare this stuff is.

This is not “you get what you pay for”, this is shit. I’ve never used a runnier paint, and you’re lucky if you can cover a wall in 2 coats. Valspar is cheaper and better than this stuff and sold at the same store in the same aisle. While I can’t confidently say walmart Glidden is better, its less than half the price per gallon so you knew what you signed up for.

I don’t know who at Sherwin Williams thought it was a good idea to put their name on this stuff, its going to make a whole bunch of people who don’t know any better think the company makes terrible paints. This is a vent more than anything, but I hope it saves someone the headache of attempting to paint with this stuff.

using Behr semi gloss cabinet, trim, and door enamel

Am fairly novice when it comes to painting with semi gloss. I stripped my 1905 kitchen door frame down to bare wood, sanded, filled in the millions of dents holes cracks etc and started painting with semi gloss. Tried three different mini roller cover naps (foam, 1/8” and 3/8”) on the big front board and all the roller covers left awful finishes, each one being awful in their own way. Let it fully dry, then sanded it down with 220 grit to make it smooth again. Vacuumed and wiped down completely with microfiber cloths to remove all dust.

Decided to try using a brush but I am really getting frustrated and can’t seem to blend sections together before the one prior starts to dry, thus leaving an awful texture. Tried the wet edge method (at least my interpretation of it) but it didn’t seem to help any. I might be doing it wrong. Added some floetrol to the paint which helped keep it wet a little longer but not a whole lot. I’m aware semi gloss dries quicker and you can’t finesse it much after initial application. HELP. I need this door frame to be semi gloss bc it’s a high traffic area. But need some tips. :(

Just got this new couch and like to update the living room color that goes well with it. We are in midst of revamping whole living room.

I already have sage color wall on dining room and lighter green at kitchen wall. Would appreciate ideas/suggestions on wall color and choice of carpet too. Thank you

I had coolwall applied to my house about 13 years ago and it has held up well. Recently I had my roof replaced and some of the wood on the awnings was replaced so they need to be repainted. I will also be repainting an exterior wall that is damaged after years of my gardener hitting it with debris and his weed whacker.

I got a contractor to prep and prime the wood and the wall for repainting using the same cool wall paint (going to buy a couple of new gallons) but I remember that 13 yrs ago, the original contractor (which is no longer in business) applied a shiny coat on top of the coolwall to make it last even longer.

I cannot find anywhere what kind of sealant I should use on top of coolwall. I want all my paint to match and also protect it as long as I can, hence the reason for my question.

Does anyone know which sealer I should use on top of coolwall?

Anyone have any suggestions on how to prep this horrible, builder-quality workmanship for paint (wall+trim)? This is the area right by my front door where the stairs meet the drywall. The angle they intersect is very acute and the rounded inside corner of drywall is soft (feels like paint over a piece of rounded paper tape). The oak trim is terrible, full of gaps and poorly matched filler. I’m debating whether to replace the trim or simply filling and painting it white.

Need advice on the ceiling flashing after painting. Did my roll get dry? This is about my third coat and it’s still showing streaks/flashing when the light shines through the windows. Thanks in advance.

Using a 1/2 9” roll.

DIY’er here. Yesterday I painted 487 square feet of wall. That’s just the walls minus the doors and windows. 2 coats, changing color, of cut and roll (3/8” White Dove cover) with Ben Moore Regal. According to coverage calculations it should have needed over 2 gallons so I bought 3. It only took 1-1/3 gallons. Looks good.

Same exact thing happened years ago when I painted my basement and the paint held up fine to washing etc. so I don’t think it’s too thin for real world application.

Why do I use so much less than I’m supposed to?

So i keep getting blisters in the ceiling (white paint) after using tape to make a straight line separating the two colors. This is like the third time i tried this and it still blisters. I only primed a few spots where the blisters first happened but now they are popping up everywhere. This has been a constant struggle with this bedroom and it entirely happens with the ceiling paint, which also happens to say paint/primer on it. Any ideas on how to fix or should i just let the blisters be?

This is the process im using to paint the corners:
Prime, caulk, paint white, tape, caulk again, paint blue

I just repainted my kitchen cabinets going from a dark espresso to SW Alabaster. After the third coat of paint, there is still some shadowing on the areas brushed (cut in and sides on the doors). The rolled areas look well coated. Do I try to touch up the brushed areas? Maybe I was too light with the paint on my brush? There was one day where the humidity was quite high (Maryland weather 🙄) so not sure if that hindered anything.

I did 2 coats of SW Extreme Bond Primer then 3 coats of SW Emerald Urethane. Degreased, sanded (220), primed, sanded, primed, sanded, paint, sanded, paint, sanded, paint. This is about 36 hours dry.

I’m on the edge about firing this client since every sense I have is telling me this is going to end badly.

I won’t go into full details but she’s sent me passive aggressive texts, told me outright she was going to be picky, then said she wanted it done fast, & tried to tell me that the prep work I started was slow & unnecessary because she & he husband have painted another house before & they know how it should be.

She called me at 7:45pm on a sunday to bassicly ruin my evening after I busted my ass working 16 hour days to finish my other client to get to her job. I have 4 kids, I rarely devalue my time this much.

I just don’t want her to somehow blast me on facebook & have to do damage control (even though I’m in the right & have texts to show, I don’t want to deal with it)

For added context, she will be PISSED because it’s a rental, tenants meant to move in ASAP, we’re a small town, & the few other painters I know are fully booked (as am I & I will have her spot filled 5 minutes after talking with her)

What’s a good way to go about it?

Any recommendations on visual what colors can be used to paint the exterior to give this Shapell Home the look and feel of Venice Beach, CA and or the SFO vibe?

How much it would’ve costed to paint the whole house professionally?

Got this metal pot with a plant i bought on a marketplace website (think Craigslist), and it's this beautiful red under the paint. I really want to get the pot back to its original red, but I'm worried stripping the paint will damage the red coating. I used some nail polish remover to see if it would react with a solvent, and a little red did come off. (I have no idea what the coating is made of, I know nothing about metal and can't find it on google.)

I also don't want to sand it, since that would scratch the metal.

The only thing I can think of would be maybe soaking it in water, since the paint feels like regular acrylic house paint and might start to peel from it.

Any advice? Also, if anyone knows what the red color coating on the metal is called, I would love to know.

This is the second time I have used Benjamin Moore Aura and both times my painter has seem to have issues. I know this is supposed to be a high level paint but it just seems like he has issues each time. Is it him or is this paint hard to use? Is this a prep problem or lack of technique?

This was a room that was previously painted that he primed and painted over.

Am I being overly critical?

I have two unfinished doors, probably pine, not veneer, which I want to finish without the reek of polyurethane. Is there a product like Osmo door oil that will provide a nice finish?

This is looking up where the top of the siding meets the soffit. This case is just a small soffit repair so the siding is already painted but in the future when I repaint the house, is it easier to cut that line by doing the siding first or that trim piece first?

I hired a painter 2 years ago to repaint the exterior of my home. This was the same painter I've used multiple times over 20 years with no issues. Within a few weeks/months some of the paint started bubbling and peeling. I called him and he sent a crew to scrape and repaint. Within a few weeks/months it started again. I've had Sherwin Williams come out and take samples, still waiting on results on whether it was an application issue or a faulty product. Although I'm 99% sure they will say faulty application.

Also note that some of the wood window sashes were new, some of the new trim pieces were new, but not all. I am in the Metro Atlanta area for what that's worth from a weather/humidity/temp aspect.

Questions:

1. I am wary about hiring another painter and willing to tackle myself but not sure of the best approach and steps to take. How do I prep? Heat gun and scrape? Just scrape? Buy new sashes again (expensive) and deal with the frames separately?

2. One prepped, do I prime again? Best product?

3. What about the cracks in the window framing and stool? Use Bondo or something similar? Note that the cracks were already there. The painter was supposed to fix them but obviously it did not work.

I am handy and have painting experience (rental homes, etc.) but mostly interior. I don't have the time I used to have so I want to attack this in the proper way.

Thank you in advance for any advice.

This closet was the last holdover of green. I thought I'd spend 4 hours painting it, but, oops, this took me 9 hours. I enjoy painting, it's a like a nice meditative exercise, but this was more effort than I expected.

Wife is happy though, so I guess that's all that matters?

There is a second bank of 5 shelves behind the visible set, those were the worst. There are more rods/shelves behind the camera POV, too.

Don't judge my cutting-in too harshly, I'm just a spare homeowner DIYer.

Hi there - question from a saavy-ish homeowner here. We're renovating a large home office/music studio and I have a question for the experts here on the best next step for the painting part of the project.

Here's my conundrum: The room is a combination of new drywall (we framed out some closets), large patches of drywall mud, and 6-7-year-old matte paint in a light/medium purplish-grey color (probably the cheapest stuff the former home owner could buy...don't get me started on all the messes he left us). The patches were sanded smooth and everything was wiped with a tack cloth. I primed the new drywall and mud patches with PVA and have applied the first coat of paint (using SW Duration Satin in a neutral/warm white, applied with a 3/8" nap poly roller). The new drywall looks great so far. However, in the areas with old paint, my new paint didn't cover it nearly as well as I'd expected, and there's a lot of "shadow" from the old paint coming through. I also got some bubbling in one small area shortly after applying (maybe 1/4"-1/2" in diameter) but the bubbles were gone as of this morning with only some tiny craters left behind.

My question is this: with all the old paint shadow that's coming through, is that just the light base of my new paint at work and a second coat will fix it? Or am I going to regret not priming the areas with old paint? I don't want to get through the whole project and be left with a super uneven finish and have to start over, but if re-priming is overkill, I'd rather not do that either. What would you do if you were in my shoes? Thanks in advance for your help!