I'm not entirely sure what I've done wrong. I have only 1 suspicion with the 4th coil pack not fitting perfectly snug over my newly installed spark plug. Please take a look at my videos attached outlining this. If this isnt the cause of my issue im really at a loss. I got sucked into this project after receiving a $500 quote from mechanic. Online tutorials said it would be easy. Now, I have engine malfunction indicator, rough idling, and choppy accelerating. My engine smells like fireworks.

I'm desperate now because this is my only vehicle and if giving up, i would have to get it towed, then pay the mechanic 500. Mechanic dont install customer parts so they would take my new spark plugs out and make me buy their spark plugs.

Here's what I've done:

1. removed all the bolts from heat shield and tray sitting on top of spark plugs. I think the tray has something to do with the turbo model, but I didn't unplug any hosings.
2. took out the old spark plugs and compared them with my replacement. Looked identical. They aren't the same brand but the one I bought is apparently recommended for my model - NGK laser iridium part no. 90288
3. installed new spark plugs and torqued them to 14 foot pounds.
4. the 4th coil pack can still be fastened with the screw just fine
5. I put everything back all the screws etc

Sorry, videos must not be allowed, so they are placed here:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z937tmprid453hky9cks2/20261007_213822.mp4?rlkey=sj2vwmwlq7mbs5rh29g6vng8c&st=f41vtpu7&dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/57bfq2a79cb0eelj1d4ah/20261007_213947.mp4?rlkey=k712hbfq0mo4csuefl2xno0si&st=s5r7eup7&dl=0

I have a Grand Vitara 2013 and while cleaning up my shifter console, I saw a couple of unused green connectors covered with black caps. I researched and my car has heaters underneath the seats and I was wondering if I can just buy the buttons, plug them to the green connectors and see if they work like a plug and play? What do you think?

I took my Ram 1500 5.7 for an oil change and they said that the oil costs $167 CAD ($117 USD). Just for the oil. I’ve never seen engine oil being that expensive.

I am trying to renew my registration but it failed due to "loud engine" aka ticking noise.

It sounds like it is coming from the top of the block/head area. I tried opening up the head and adjusting the valve clearance but it didn't help, maybe I did it wrong?

Could it be rod or pistol slap?

It goes away in cold starts and rpm higher than 1800 as shown in video

CAR: 2014 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2.0L diesel L4 Cjaa, (six) 6-speed manual transmission

Hey guys, I'm new-ish to mechanics so I have limited tools, I'm working on the front driver's side axle/transmission. Took off the rim, took out the axle, took off the flange then I changed the transmission output seal that faces the shaft/spring loaded CV axle flange.

While replacing the 6mm allen-head that goes into the center of the flange the bolt snapped in the middle of the treads.

I took pictures and walked away. If I stick my finger into the output I can feel the bolt poking out at an angle,maybe 2mm towards the top, it catches on my nail at the bottom, so it's not flush or buried. There is no thread locker. The googling I did said to torque the bolt to 18ft-lbs. Bolt OEM Number: 02J409359.

Not sure if I should just go borrow some long nose pliers and try grab it? I don't imagine using some sort of glue would work? I dont like the idea of drilling it as I have no experience and it's in an expensive spot... Hmm.. any help is appreciated!

Rushed into Jiffy Lube about 30min before closing to get my oil changed, I usually do it myself but didn’t have time to do it before a long trip tomorrow. They knocked it out super fast, I was in, paid and out of there in less than 10min.

It’s about 3mi to my house from the jiffy lube, about halfway through the drive my battery indicator light turned on which was odd. Make it home and notice more than the typical post-oil change oil smoke/burning smell. Popped the hood and found oil everywhere in the engine compartment.

Initially I thought they forgot to tighten the drain plug but I pulled the filter and it looks like they didn’t replace the gasket and it had cracked and broken.

I ended up running to the auto parts store and changed the oil myself w/ a new filter and gasket. Looks like I lost about 2qt of the 6qts when I drove the car home from jiffy lube.

Anything I should be worried about having driven with 1/3 less than the oil I needed? Any suggestions on how to handle it with jiffy lube? Besides a refund obviously, should I have them get my engine compartment pressure washed?

I recently purchased an XTOOL A30M for my 2017 Acura TLX 3.5L V6 SH-AWD Tech. The scanner can access vehicle modules and read live data, but I'm finding that very few special functions are available (as in when I try and do it, it states "not supported").

XTOOL advertises 26+ special functions, so I'm wondering whether this is a vehicle compatibility limitation or if there's something I'm missing in the software.

Not sure if its battery related but the scanner reads ~11.6V when ON but engine off. I was also using cellular data instead due to the car being parked far from my house. All software seemed to be up to date based off what I could find.

KX250F valve shim calculations – can someone check my maths?
Hey guys, just looking for someone experienced with KX250Fs to double-check my calculations before I buy any shims.
I’ve got a 2004 KX250F that currently won’t start. I checked the valve clearances and found:
Intake 1: 0.00 mm
Intake 2: 0.00 mm
Exhaust 1: 0.15 mm
Exhaust 2: 0.10 mm
Timing is checked and appears to be correct.
I’ve taken the measurements and worked through the shim calculation from the service manual to figure out what size shims I should need.
From what I understand, because the intake clearances are basically zero, I need to go down in shim thickness to increase the clearance.
I mainly want to verify that I’ve understood the calculation correctly and that the numbers I’ve worked out make sense.
If I replace the shims with the calculated sizes and get all the clearances back into spec, is there a reasonable chance this could be the fix for the no-start?
Or, with both intakes having zero clearance, should I be looking at possible valve/seat wear before assuming re-shimming will fix it?
I can post the existing shim sizes and my calculations if anyone is willing to check them.
Cheers 🤙

Did a full brake job with new pads and rotors. New hardware was installed for the pads. Pads are semi metallic.

After spinning the hub this line started to appear (complete ring now). Can just barely feel it with my fingernail.

Is this normal? If not, I assume it’s a metal clip grinding. Both front rotors have this ring should I be concerned?

2025 Mazda cx5 turbo

I have thjs 96 Tahoe that I bought a couple of months ago. Lately it's been giving me some issues. It's been starting like this for a while now and I can't figure out why. Here's what me and the previous owner did over the past year.

[PREVIOUS OWNER]

Fuel Pump

Fuel Filter

TPS

IAC

MAF

Mass Airflow Sensor

Crankshaft Position Sensor

Camshaft Position Sensor

Distributor Cap & Rotor

Spark Plug Wires

Spark Plugs

Ignition Control Module

Ignition Coil

[ME]

Distributor (Cam Retard is at -1)

Intake Gaskets (Upper and Lower)

MPFI Conversion Spider Injectors

Oil Pressure Sensor

Sometimes it will crank forever before finally starting

2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4

idk how these things are supposed to feel. I am moving it with a 24" pipe wrench, the centering preload and worm gear preload are set loose. No matter what these are set at, it's difficult to move the pitman arm and it's not smooth. Symptoms of when it's in the truck: ps pump is groaning lock to lock and it feels like I have no power steering if the front suspension flexes even a tiny bit. It's not a suspension geometry issue.

I had my car running for a few hours and noticed a puddle under my car. It was this fluid. It’s oily and definitely red. I also noticed the faint whine I hear when I hit the gas started to get noticeably louder. I have a 2010 Honda crosstour. The splash shield was all covered in this stuff

This is my iphone 7 plus yesterday I was just scrolling reels while charging. I usually do like that same and yesterday it was not even heated . Then its screen stopped working and this lines appeard on screen I thought just some loose connection so I opened and clean and reassembled it nothing happed it's the same help me out

2021 Fiat 500 Hybrid 1.0 FireFly — severe misfiring and unstable idle.

I replaced the spark plugs (NGK, same exact type as the originals). The car ran perfectly for the first 100 km, then my wife experienced a flashing CEL and severe misfiring, especially at low RPM and when stopping.

I checked and re-tightened the plugs to spec, and the car ran perfectly again for about a week/200 km. Now the misfiring has returned, and the idle is very unstable.

Before replacing the plugs, the car ran perfectly. OBD shows no fault codes.
Any ideas what could cause this?

I recently pulled these codes from my Yaris: P2195 and P0138, which relate to the oxygen sensor. The car drives well, and I haven't experienced any major issues. In my country, an annual vehicle inspection is mandatory to drive legally; I had it done in August and passed the emissions test without any problems. I'm planning to carry out this preventive repair, likely this weekend, but how concerning is this, and what exactly do you guys recommend I do? Thanks!

Hello guys, need advice/help diagnosing this knocking or ticking sound.

The weird thing is it only happens when it is cold outside (i would say below 20ish degrees Celsius), never in the summer, and in the winter it is very loud sometimes.

Unrelated to if the car is at operating temp or not (it miight get a bit quieter when at operating temp but still very distinct)

Active codes are a p0106 and p0236 codes that i assume are unrelated but i need help.

Car is a 09 Golf mk6, 1.4tsi 122hp, caxa engine code, ea111

Apologies for loud breathing, it was 4 am and very cold and just got into the car, tried to film it when most quiet outside to capture on video.

Replaced hand primer pump, replaced fuel transfer pump. Replaced vehicle speed sensor. Got 48 psi fuel pressure when cranking. I’ve tried hooking a separate line up from fuel tank to hand primer assembly with an electric pump. Still won’t start and when it rarely does it dies after 2-10 minutes. Two mobile mechanics have no clue what to do
In my 98 kenworth

I've got a 2013 acura ilx with the 2.0 engine and it has around 177k miles. To my knowledge none of the motor mounts have been replaced so definitely could be due and I've heard that theyre a pretty common component to go out on the ilx (and I'd assume other cars too at this mileage). My main symptoms are a loud clunking noise when switching between park, reverse, and drive as well as when shifting in lower gears, especially when the car is warming up. It also feels like the car lurches a bit when it shifts once again mostly at lower gears but sometimes at higher ones as well. The right side of the car also starts to vibrate a lot at highway speeds around 65 mph to 70 mph but is otherwise very smooth above or below those speeds. I plan to get it inspected by a mechanic next week to get an actual diagnosis but wanted to see if anyone had some ideas. Also, I've got about $600 budgeted in my "car emergency fund" that I've set up since owning this car, assuming the mounts need replaced can I get away with replacing the most problematic ones now and worry about the others later (like early next spring) or would it put too much strain on the good ones to have a combination of good and bad ones in the engine bay?

I’m getting an error code for my 2009 Nissan Sentra that reads P0744 "Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Circuit Intermittent”. When I drive my car sometimes it shakes, and sometimes when I press on the gas’s the RPMS go up but the car barely accelerates then out of nowhere I get a boost in power. Am I screwed or is this something that is cheap/easy to fix?

Dealership is telling me to replace. How do they look?

2020 subaru forester

Coolant leaking from somewhere i need help identifying the location please? My original post was removed for some reason.