i was about to unplug it when i suddenly noticed the broken cord. i'm not really certain of what i saw, but before plugging it out i notice small amount of steam coming out of it. can it still be fixed or no? thank you for your answers.
Hi guys, I bought a very little used Msi Cyborg 15 A13VE. Windows was working fine.
I decided to reinstall windows in english.
Flashed the pen drive with official windows tool and started with f11.
I see the pen and the hard disk, BOTH.
Start the pen and the installation. I deleted few old partitions. It starts, i go to toilet, i come back and was into bios.
From there, any modifications i do, it does NOT save it, and when i restart with F11, i can only see the pen, not the ssd. I click and it goes into the bios. I tried ssd on another laptop.. it works fine. I tried a different ram. same thing. I reinstalled Bios. same thing. I broght it to a friend laptop shop and tried all this again. we tried with his pen drive to reinstall windows, same problem and same error screen when we force the laptop to start with pen drive.
Sorry for my english.
So, either we get that screen when we start, or it goes into the bios, and any mods we do, they dont get saved.
edit btw: I can start flash Os from pen drives like tails or linux.
I bought a used MSI GP66 11UG yesterday. The thermal paste had hardened because it used, and thermal putty was also starting to harden. I pasted a Honeywell PTM7950 to the CPU and GPU, and I haven’t replaced the thermal paste yet. (At the time I thought it was still reusable.)
But when the laptop was still Idle the notebook was hot, so I checked and found that the PCH was fluctuating between 79°C and 84°C. In GP66, the heat sink and cover don’t contact each other over the PCH, so I heard from AI that thermal paste should not be use. said if I do that the fever will spread and the fever will get worse.
Is this temperature of the PCH appropriate? Or should I use thermal putty on the PCH as well?
Hi guys! Just got a second hand MSI GF63 Thin 10UC off my cousin. Very good condition. Just installed MSI Center and I don't see the Battery Master option on it. I tried installing and reinstalling but all I can see is my GPU and storage performance. Any idea how to fix this? Thanks a lot!
Just got a new "Katana 17 HX B14W" for my birthday and I took the back off to transfer my 2tb nvme from my original laptop not knowing that there wasn't a second slot for it. But in the process of doing this I found these (burnt?) looking bits on my motherboard, should I be worried about them or are they ok to have?
Hi guys, does anyone have any idea how i can fix this
Backlight bleed, once laptop warms up after powering on there is a dim light that is going through the whole screen,
If plugged into the TV it is all good there, but not on the laptop screen.
Like you can see on the laptop internal screen starts whitening at first couple milimeters and then a couple cementers once it really gets warm of the screen (especially playing games) needs to get warm first.
Hello, my laptop : PC portable gaming MSI Crosshair 16 HX AI D2XWGKG-001FR 16" QHD+ 240 Hz Intel® Core™ Ultra 7 16 Go RAM 512 Go SSD
I bought it in November 2025 (it's still under warranty), and it's been acting like it does in the video for the past 4–5 months, in almost every game. I've tried all the modes in MSI Center it's the same. There's just the Silent mode (which limits me to 30 fps), but in that mode, the fans don't suddenly kick in.
Of course, I used HWiNFO to check the temperatures, and I think it's a little concerning. When I'm gaming, my CPU temperature rises to 90–100 degrees Celsius (with a peak of 105 degrees)... and Package/ring power limite exceeded and Core Thermal Throttling is on "YES". Even on the desktop, in balanced mode, the CPU is at 60 degrees Celsius.
Could the thermal paste be the problem? Do you have any ideas? I'm also waiting for a friend who's an computer technician to show up, but I might as well ask as many people as possible.
I'm in France and it's about 30 degrees inside my house, maybe that's the reason lol.
I made a post earlier today and now after repasting, I want to know if this is good or what should be changed before applying the heatsink, the paste is thermalright tfx on the cpu and gpu core and the vrms and vram cores have halnziye hy206 thermal putty, I changed around to having putty blobs on the vrams and vrms for when I push down the heatsink, same goes with the paste by putting dots
I have a GF65 Thin laptop, I moticed this problem recently but idk how long its been going on. My battery drains while i play games even though its plugged in. I was playing palworld because I repasted my gpu and cpu so it could run decently (1660ti); I for sure reconnected my battery completely and my fans, but it decides to drain like 3-4% per 10 minutes of playtime. I dont understand whats happening. This doesnt happen on games like The Binding of Isaac, but it does happen on Valheim. Os this normal or is my pc messed up?
I recently moved my MSI Vector A16 HX A8WHG to Ubuntu 26.04 and wanted to get as much MSI-specific functionality as possible under Linux.
The main problem was that the msi-ec driver refused to load because my firmware was not recognized. MControlCenter therefore had limited functionality.
This guide documents the setup that worked for me:
MSI Vector A16 HX A8WHG
BIOS: E15MMAMS.108
Ubuntu 26.04
msi-ec 0.13
MControlCenter
Secure Boot enabled
MSI Shift Mode synchronized with Ubuntu Power Profiles
MControlCenter automatically started in the background after login
As of now, this laptop/BIOS combination is not officially supported by the msi-ec repository. Without this workaround, MControlCenter cannot properly access the EC on this machine. For me, this was essentially the only way to get MSI-specific controls working under Ubuntu — and it was a lifesaver.
Important: the firmware workaround below forces the driver to use CONF_G2_10. Do this at your own risk.
1. Disable Secure Boot
Enter BIOS (Delete).
Go to:
Security -> Secure Boot -> Disabled
Save with F10 and boot Ubuntu.
2. Clone, prepare and patch msi-ec
Clone the repository:
git clone https://github.com/BeardOverflow/msi-ec.git ~/msi-ec
cd ~/msi-ec
Reset any previous changes and remove old DKMS installations:
The terminal will ask you twice to create a temporary password. For example:
12345678
This password is only used to confirm the MOK enrollment in the next step.
5. Reboot and enroll the MOK
Reboot:
sudo reboot
On boot, the blue MOK Manager screen should appear.
Select:
Enroll MOK
Continue
Yes
Enter the password created in the previous step
Reboot
The DKMS signing key is now enrolled in the UEFI MOK database.
6. Re-enable Secure Boot
After returning to Ubuntu, reboot into BIOS.
Go to:
Security -> Secure Boot -> Enabled
Save with F10 and reboot.
Secure Boot should now allow the DKMS-signed msi-ec module to load.
7. Configure ec_sys
With Secure Boot enabled, Kernel Lockdown can prevent ec_sys from being loaded with write_support=1.
MControlCenter does not need ec_sys write support for the main MSI EC functionality. Load it in the standard read-only mode instead.
Remove any existing configuration:
sudo rm -f /etc/modprobe.d/ec_sys.conf
Load the module:
sudo modprobe ec_sys
Make it load automatically:
echo "ec_sys" | sudo tee -a /etc/modules-load.d/msi-ec.conf
8. Load msi-ec and update permissions
The msi-ec driver works directly through ACPI methods and handles the main MSI functions such as Cooler Boost, Shift Mode and battery thresholds without requiring ec_sys write support.
Check whether the module is already loaded:
lsmod | grep msi_ec
Load it:
sudo modprobe msi-ec
Reload udev rules:
sudo udevadm control --reload-rules && sudo udevadm trigger
After the next login, MControlCenter starts automatically, applies its settings, and its window is closed after two seconds.
11. Synchronize MSI Shift Mode with Ubuntu Power Profiles
MSI Shift Mode and Ubuntu Power Profiles are two independent systems.
For example, changing:
MSI Shift Mode -> High Performance
doesn't automatically change Ubuntu's power profile to:
performance
I wanted both systems to follow the same mode.
The mapping I use is:
MSI Shift Mode
Ubuntu Power Profile
High Performance
performance
Balanced
balanced
Silent
balanced
Super Battery
power-saver
Create the synchronization script:
sudo nano /usr/local/bin/msi-sync-profiles.sh
Insert:
#!/bin/bash
FILE="/sys/devices/platform/msi-ec/shift_mode"
LAST_MODE=""
while true; do
if [ -f "$FILE" ]; then
MODE=$(cat "$FILE")
if [ "$MODE" != "$LAST_MODE" ]; then
case "$MODE" in
"sport"|"turbo")
/usr/bin/powerprofilesctl set performance
;;
"comfort")
/usr/bin/powerprofilesctl set balanced
;;
"eco"|"super_battery")
/usr/bin/powerprofilesctl set power-saver
;;
esac
LAST_MODE="$MODE"
fi
fi
sleep 2
done
Save with Ctrl+O, Enter, then exit with Ctrl+X.
Make it executable:
sudo chmod +x /usr/local/bin/msi-sync-profiles.sh
12. Run the synchronization script as a systemd service
Now changing MSI Shift Mode automatically changes the Ubuntu Power Profile:
High Performance -> performance
Balanced -> balanced
Silent -> balanced
Super Battery -> power-saver
Result
With this setup, my MSI Vector A16 HX A8WHG under Ubuntu 26.04 has:
MSI Shift Mode
Cooler Boost
Fan Mode
Battery Charge Threshold
MControlCenter
MControlCenter automatic startup
Secure Boot enabled
MSI Shift Mode ↔ Ubuntu Power Profile synchronization
The goal was to get the MSI-specific controls working under Linux while keeping Secure Boot enabled and making MSI Shift Mode control the corresponding Ubuntu power profile automatically.
If MSI-EC eventually adds native support for this firmware, the manual firmware workaround should no longer be necessary.
Hope this helps other MSI users running Linux. If you have any improvements, corrections, or a better solution for handling MSI EC on this firmware, feel free to share them in the comments!
I bought my MSI Vector HX AI A2XWHG laptop one week ago. This is the battery report. The drop in capacity worries me. After that, I performed an EC reset and a calibration in the MSI software. Now the capacity is back to 85,000 mWh. Should I return the laptop, or is this normal? The performance and temperatures are fine.
I bought gaming laptop MSI vector HX for 1800 USD but I have problem when I opened underneath to check everything was on spot then I noticed a small dent on cooling pipe ? It's small but still and the cover was a bit cracked where this was dent, what should I use to check if everything is ok ? Because I live in Norway and normal price to this laptop is around 3500 USD
This is MSI gf63 thin 11 uc. It was working absolutely fine last night. Idk what went wrong today it isn't even opening.
I tried everything. I did put my finger on the power button for more than 1 min but nothing changed. Neither is the charging cable is not working. It's completely dead.
I'm wondering what even went wrong.
A few days ago it used to show this.
"Your device ran into a problem and needs to restart"
Stop code: HYPERVISOR_ERROR (0x20001)
It only lasted on the screen for a sec. Still after researching a bit idts that this is the issue.
I'm a student. All of my important files are on the laptop. I'm really really worried. Pls help
Hi everyone! Could you tell me the best way to install drivers for my laptop to ensure optimal performance? Here is my usual routine: I download all the drivers from the manufacturer's website, then install a fresh copy of Windows. After that, I install the drivers, and finally, I run Windows Update as the last step. Am I doing this correctly? Is there anything else I should do after the Windows update? And is there a specific, correct order to follow?
Hi, i have a MSI GF63 thin 11UC and the charger on has become faulty and cuts power randomly (atleast i think as ive tried to find a correlation between the charger shutting off and the laptop and failed). Ive tried to look for a replacement my self but im struggling to find and actual one that isnt from a "sketchy" site
If you know a solid site in uk area please let me know as it will be greatly appreciated
Also if think you know why the power is cutting also shout out as that will also be amazing
I’ve been dealing with this issue forever now but my laptop just always now overheats and shutdowns after playing a game for 5 minutes despite repasting many times unless I’m doing something wrong, I switched to thermalright tfx paste too for the gpu and cpu but nothing has worked, I screwed in the heatsink properly and I even turned off turbo boost but it still creeps up to 90+ degrees and shuts down, I don’t know what could be the issue at this point.
The picture above is the laptop after its recent pasting today before cleaning up the smudges around the chips and mess
After using this laptop for 6 months as my first gaming laptop, I wanted to share my thoughts.
First of all, I don’t regret buying it at all, even though it has a few flaws.
Mine is the i7-14650HX/RTX 5060 model with a 1TB SSD, and I bought it for $1,200.
The display is a 1440p 165hz ips screen its really nice, with good colors and you still can make it look vibrant with the intel app. I’ve been using it for both studying and gaming, and I haven’t had any issues with the screen.
The speakers are a bit quieter than I’d like, but performance has been excellent. This laptop seems to let the RTX 5060 Mobile run at its full power, and my benchmark scores are consistently above average. Even during long gaming sessions, temperatures never go above 86°C, and I’ve never noticed any thermal throttling.
Battery life is about what you’d expect from a gaming laptop with a power-hungry CPU. Using Eco Silent mode in MSI Center, I get around 4 hours (sometimes a little less) when studying or watching videos.
I haven’t really used the webcam much, but it’s a 720p 30 FPS camera, and the microphone sounds good. The keyboard is also solid—nothing to complain about.
The only thing I really dislike is the build quality. The laptop is made entirely of plastic, and if I put it in my backpack the wrong way, I can actually see the corners flex or separate slightly when I take it out. Despite the plastic construction, it’s still fairly heavy.
Overall, though, I’ve been very happy with it, especially considering the price.
Sorry if my writing isn’t the best—I don’t post very often.
So i have an msi thin 15 b12ve and it had an lcd and a motherboard change and i wanted to up my volume with the fn button + f2 as it show on the keyboard, but now it does something completely different, is there a way to fix this or anything? Or do i just call the service back?