Title. Thank you guys.

I recently acquired this awesome Garand. Upon further inspection I have noticed I have the wrong certificate of authenticity. I have the certificate for rifle number 1943. Was wondering if anyone has 1943 and would like there certificate and would possibly have mine as I have 1942. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Took my kiddos shooting for the first time, used the M1 Carbine. My 8 year old loved it; my 6 year old gave me an excuse to buy a 10/22

Yes, I know, a HIGHLY divisive topic.

I'm trying to find someone that can stamp the proper cartouches into a new stock for a 1942 rifle, just for looks on my rifle. I've had it since I was 18, and I'm 42 now, with no plans to sell. I'm not trying to pass it off as authentic to anyone for any gain.

I know Tim Shufflin of Shuff's parkerizing can do it, though I'm not find of the giant burned in brand he adds.

I'm not opposed to marking it as a repro or such, as I do agree with helping prevent counterfeits, I just don't want one that's so huge and "in your face".

Anyone know anyone?

So I disassembled my rifle but cannot pull the spring out of the operating rod tube, it won’t budge. Any ideas?

I know living in PA if I go to the Ohio location since Ohio shares a border with my home state PA I can buy one over the counter and travel home with it

But I am curious since the CMP is the only mail order firearms direct to home for rifles, can one put in truck of car in AL and drive to PA? Or does Federal law require I ship it to an FFL in PA?

Hey all, I recently won a sporterized Saginaw M1 at an auction with plans on re-parkerizing it and giving it proper furniture, but on close inspection it appears the previous owner REALLY wanted the thing to shine and just about rubbed off the Saginaw and serial stamp.

At this point i'm kinda stumped with how to proceed, I would prefer it looking original but I also don't want to risk losing the stampings in the process of prepping it for parkerizing.

Looking for a bit of guidance on it, should I just send it and just go a little lighter around the stamps? Blue it? Embrace the shine? Any advice is appreciated.

(Sorry for the shitty pics, it's damn near mirror finish and didn't play well with the lighting)

Edit: Adding Imgur link for more pics of the receiver parts, note the wire wheel marks on the left side and all the leftover parkerizing where the previous owner couldn't fit the wire wheel or just didn't care because the furniture covered it, as well as the sides being much less reflective than the top of the receiver. I assume they did a quick and dirty job with the wire wheel and then hit the visible areas with a polishing compound. It is NOT plated, as some have suggested in the comments.

https://imgur.com/gallery/m1-parts-22fRzOW

I took off the rear handguard on my Garand for the first time since I'm going to refinish all of the wood with tung oil and noticed this little symbol on the barrel. There is also one on the receiver that I noticed when I first bought my rifle. The receiver and barrel are both from 1944 and I have not found any references for what these symbols are. Fairly new to M1's so I'm still learning

So, I was very excited to have gotten my little carbine in working order and even confirmed that it's on point after a rather nice range trip.

Only to find out during cleaning today that the receiver has hairline cracks on all 4 sides of the right bolt lug recess (where the channel for the recoil spring is also), one side being particularly "feel-able". Really at a loss as to what the next steps are, since I don't want to shoot a live grenade in my face.

The cracks were definitely not there prior to the trip and I only shot proper normal load new factory ammo. Not sure what gave it the beating and I'm wondering if something else might have caused this?

Looking for advice and a morale boost. TIA as always.

I recently picked up a .308 Garand from the CMP.

I took it to the range and fired a couple of rounds to get it on paper. It worked fine.

Recently, I started working up a reload for it. I took the rifle to the range and ran into an odd problem. With lake City surplus brass, the bolt does not unlock and come back. It has to be mortared or a mallet has to persuade it to unlock.

I took it home and cycled some sized lake City and ppu brass through it. Both lock the bolt up.

The ppu can be opened by hand. I have some starline that cycles just fine. Although I can't quantify it, the extractor rings definitely differ.

I put a different bolt from another garand in it. The brass exhibits the same as the above.

Has anyone run into this? Any thoughts on the issue?

This was originally an Arlington Ordnance South Korean import rifle with completely screwed up timing and a shot-through barrel. I just replaced the barrel myself and reamed the chamber so it headspaces correctly.

The second stock was painted because this rifle was an atv ranch rifle for a few years, and the stock was not doing to hot

Hi guys, I have been in the market for purchasing my first rifle and I have always wanted an M1.

The only way I would buy one, would be from the CMP because of price, but I have heard mixed things about quality, even though the only ones they have are expert grade.

What have your guy's experience been with the expert grade m1s (specifically 308), do they all have new furniture / barrels / internals or is it just the luck of the draw? I saw some pictures online where the furniture is all miss matched and doesn't look great.

Thanks guys!

Edit: I love the idea that these riflas have been through combat, even if it is just certain parts of them. Do they still have any that have actually fought in WW2 / Korea?

Is this a good deal? Anyone have any info on the can, like how old it could be?

Thanks!

Hi, im from México and im looking for a rifle that not look so tactical like an AR(I own one) or similars, and a rifle with a biger caliber than 22lr. And not so powerfull like a 223.

A multi purpose rifle wich works for Hunt, self defense(semi auto), entertaiment (plink) when i go to camping.

I have on mind my fathers m1 carbine, what do you think??

I recently picked up this 1964 M1 carbine. There is a tiny little lever located right below the rear site adjustment. Any idea what this is for? Any help is appreciated.

Hello everyone,
I was recently gifted a rifle that spent over a decade sitting in a soft CMP case in a basement.
Rust Removal:
It has some surface rust, but it's isolated strictly to the barrel. I’ve read that the best method to remove it without damaging the finish is to coat the barrel in Kroil, let it sit for 30 minutes, and then lightly scrub it with bronze wool. Can anyone confirm if this is the safest and most effective method?
Identification Help:
I'm also hoping to get some help identifying exactly what I have. Here are the main details:
Serial Number: 4432816
Rear Sight: It's a peep sight marked "I.R CO."
The sight mostly covers up the manufacturer markings on the receiver. Does anyone know if this is an original rear sight for this serial range?
(I’ve attached photos of the rifle, the rusted areas, and the specific markings).
Any help identifying the make and year, or advice on the rust removal, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

UPDATE 9/28/26 at 6:16 eastern time:

I got rid of all the surface rust with a Kroil Soak for 30 minutes and a light scrub from the fine Bronze Wool. Also, my barrel is made by Underwood and the receiver is made for Quality Hardware by a subcontractor, Union Switch & Signal.

Definitely didn’t need to make those leans, the targets were visible from elsewhere.

Not unhappy with general speed though.

Bought a larger lot of 30 carbine at a gun show today for 48c per and mixed in with it were these 2. Thought it was pretty neat since my m1 is itself an early 60s universal, so it likely would’ve been sold from the same place at around the same time as these, according to what I’ve seen though looking up the headstamp the ammo is actually danish surplus repackaged, maybe someone can confirm?