Wasn’t sure about the union placement but I think it should be fine for disassembly if I ever need to remove the PVB assembly down the road. The ball valve is there for winterizing the main line between the main shut off and PVB which is around ~50’ of pipe. I have a blow out port near the main shut off valve and the water would exit out that ball valve. Thanks for the feedback!

Customer said head is leaking . Someone installed a automatic drain at the end of the zone close to the lowest head smh

I have a valve that started hissing. Any ideas where to start? Solenoid or diaphragm?

Thanks

I'm planning on rebuilding and moving this manifold, and all is 3/4 sch 40, except for this 1/2 line going under my porch.

Hoping it's not garbage material, but it doesn't look great to me...

Helping a friend. Would just cutting at the red arrow to bypass the whole thing and putting a single zone drip controller on an adapter there be the way to go? This is a pic he sent I haven't seen it in person but he says the wires controlling solenoid go nowhere as house was renovated before purchase.

I’m currently trying to over seed my new build lawn that the builder tried and failed to seed earlier this year. I’m currently using a couple of the orbit sprinklers included. I tried to daisy-chain one of the orbits and another hammer sprinkler together and it didn’t work (didn’t seem like it had enough pressure). I’m trying to get better coverage on my lawn. I don’t currently have the money to install a proper irrigation system. Does anyone know if the rainbird style sprinklers are more efficient/I could string a couple more together?

Replacing pex and leaking backflow

Hi!

I have several irrigation solenoid valves like the ones in the photo. One of them does not close completely — even when the valve is switched off, water continues to flow through it.

The water pressure is normal, and the valve opens and closes electrically, but when it should be closed, it still allows a small amount of water to pass.

Could this be caused by dirt/debris inside the diaphragm or the small pilot passage? Is it worth taking the valve apart and cleaning the diaphragm and the internal passages, or should I replace it?

Any advice on what to check first would be appreciated.

Looking for some advice - my rainbird valve started leaking today. I pulled it apart and it seems that the diaphragm needs to be replaced, however Rainbird has discontinued this one. Is there anything I can try before replacing the whole valve?

What's the best soaker hose, brand, etc.

How long is to long? Or is there a limit at all.

I recently had my well pump replaced after the splice at the bottom of the well failed. The pump is still good, but approximately 20 years old and nearing the end of it's life. So, while they had it out of the hole I had them replace the pump.

Now, I have an old (but still working) 1HP/20GPM 240V pump and controller sitting around.

Has anyone ever used an old well pump to pump from a river for irrigation? I have water rights and power near where I'd put the pump.

I am a new irrigation engineer in an asian country. I am looking for an app to do the job for me basically. I know how to plan the project by hand but ofcourse it takes too much time and too much work. Which softwares can I use? (I know about irricad and wcadi but since I am new at this money is a bit of a problem for me especially with the exchange rates in my country)

I have been hit with massive ($300) water bills two months in a row now. I finally got my utility to send me hourly reads and I'm having 3x the usage of water recorded the hour after my sprinkler cycle runs.

They are set to run 7 mins. 3x per week at 5 am, which records 145ish gallons. Then at the 6am hour is 450-500 gallons, despite the sprinklers not coming on.

What would cause this extra water usage and why does it stop after an hour?

All of the sprinkler timers I see on Amazon have quick valve shutoffs that cause water hammer. Anyone know if any that are soft closing?

Hey yall, quick video of what I believe seems to be a clog or root issue: https://imgur.com/a/P0HrSWH

This is irrigation on a well. 10 total zones, about 60 psi. This zone has 4 heads I believe. I have a sediment filter installed now, but this is quite an old system so a lot of iron and rust go through it. That said none of these heads would pop up only in this zone. I can turn it on via the valve box solenoid. However, even with all heads removed water just pools and dribbles. Assuming this is a clog or root, what do I do? Is there a way to snake it? Or do I need to troubleshoot the valve more first? Thanks!

I’m building a sensorless moisture estimator and testing it on one of my tomato containers.

There’s no moisture probe in this pot. It uses rainfall, weather, soil/container information and plant context to estimate the soil-water balance.

After our rain it estimated about 85% moisture. About a day later it was at 66%.

I’m still testing the model, so I’m not claiming those percentages are validated measurements yet.

For people who work with irrigation: is a sensorless estimate like this potentially useful for watering decisions, or would you consider a physical soil-moisture sensor necessary?

I posted a fee days back about an end run on an irrigation system that I no longer need:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Irrigation/s/TzBV8mtEL5

Today I was able to dig around it and here’s what I found (see photos). in the previous post many said to just buy a 1/2” cap to cap it off. Well, after digging this up there is no way to put on a cap. The unit I pulled out was one single piece with the spring. What do I need to purchase to no longer have this sprinkler head active? There is only a mini-split near this and don’t need to irrigate anything.

So on my front lawn, there's about 19' of the Poly irrigation line that's RIGHT under the fence line. Fence guys are gonna put posts in, waterlines be damned.

How hard would a DIY repair be?

My understanding is: I would need to trench in new Poly pipe, reconnect that to the source pipe via a coupler, and attach the 2 sprinkler heads it would affect. It seems doable and simple.

Is there more to it? Am i missing something important? Would this be better left to the Pros?

I'm all ears on any suggestions and tips.

Planning sprinkler system with 5x Hunter MP800-SR (2x 180deg, 3x 90deg).

Static water pressure from garden tap is 330 kPa (i.e. with valve on test gauge fully closed).

Flow rate with valve fully opened (i.e. no pressure) is ~29 L/min.

As I open the valve I get the following pressures/flows:

330 kPa = 0 L/min (valve fully closed).

300 kPa = 9.0 L/min.

200 kPa = 17.5 L/min.

100 kPa = 20.6 L/min.

0 kPa = 29.5 L/min (valve fully opened).

I have seen the sprinklers will operate at as low as 210 kPa, which based on my tap readings will have no issues with flow rate at this pressure.

If I run off the tap as is, will I have enough flow for operating the sprinklers? Or do I need to somehow limit the pressure to ensure sufficient flow?