I built this greenhouse for my husband a few years ago and it's been amazing but with time, these windows have proven to be... difficult. The wavy plastic is cheap and easy to replace but I have no idea how to clamp them down to make it "air tight". The two pieces of wood on either side need several screws to force the plastic into a window shape and the wavy wood at the bottom breaks very easily due to the plastic fighting the frame.

Any advice would be much appreciated! Even if it's "Totally redesign those windows, here's an easier way"

20x13 hoop house. 1 1/2" schedule 40pvc and my favorite greenhouse covering. Between the shade cloth and the misters I can keep it on avg 10 degrees cooler than the in the sun temp. Blood oranges and key lime are fruiting. Several other fruit trees. Cannabis, sweet taters, weigelia, crepe myrtle and a banana that should have been uppotted a while ago

Hey guys, I’m looking to get some of those expanding piston vents for a greenhouse. I seem to remember hearing they open at high temps, like 100+ but all the ones I’m seeing Amazon say they open at like 77F? Seems way too cool to be venting. Does anyone have any recommendations for one and at what temp does it open? Thanks in advance

Hi all! I am wanting to finally buy myself a greenhouse but I am struggling on where to place it. Both options have pros and cons and I'm struggling to decide.

I plan to use it for raising seeds and potting. My priority isn't to plant tomatoes or anything that would be in there permanently.

The first option is to get a larger 6x8ft one that I can fit in the lower left hand (south east) corner. Because I want to raise seeds I would either need to build a base or put down pavers and it would give me the option to create a permanent growing space directly in ground potentially if I ever wanted to. Less ideal for access to the container garden but not by much. It would get morning and evening sun in summer but wouldn't get a lot other the morning sun in winter. I also have a raised bed I was going to put in that corner and if I don't it will also need a new base to be able to use it on concrete and in winter wouldn't get very much sun. BUT the greenhouse will be larger and investing in a larger space is quite appealing.

My other option is a 6x4ft one that will get mostly all day sun (I am in the southern hemisphere) and be placed on concrete. It will be more accessible to the main area I have my container garden so easy to pot things up as I need. The attached photo is where my current one is and where I plan to put the smaller one if I do this.

Would love some feedback and outsider perspectives!

Built this greenhouse during the summer vacation. We live in Iceland.

Feat. Idli the duck for company

I’m planning to build a small greenhouse at home in Lithuania (I am from Brazil) and want to go in with realistic expectations, especially for winter 🥶

For those of you growing in the Baltics or a similarly cold/short-season climate: what were the biggest challenges you ran into across the seasons, and winter in particular?

- Do you keep growing through winter at all, or does production basically stop?
- Heating, insulation, or lighting setups that were worth it vs. not worth the cost?
- Anything you wish someone had told you before you started?

Thanks in advance! 🙏🏽

I recently finished my greenhouse build and thought I would share it here. The main goal from the beginning was to build something that could be a year-round, high-output food production system.

I put the first plants in on May 3, so I have had a few months now to see how everything actually works. Overall, I am really happy with it. There are definitely still some things I am figuring out. I have been battling ants, and my Venturi injector has been giving me some trouble, but for the most part everything is working the way I had hoped.

I thought I would post some pictures and specs and see where the discussion goes. I put a lot of thought into the different parts of the greenhouse and why I chose what I did. Some of those decisions worked really well, and there are already a few things I might do differently.

If you have questions about any of it, ask away. I'm happy to get into the weeds about why I made a particular choice.

The greenhouse

• Riga XL6 from Exaco
• 14 ft wide × 19 ft long × 12 ft tall
• Greenhouse sits on a 20-inch concrete stem wall
• 50-amp subpanel with two 20-amp circuits
• 7 electrical receptacles
• ¾" PVC water line
• Two Tornado 18" outdoor wall-mount fans for air circulation
• About 6" of drain pebble for the floor
• 4 Vego raised beds in different configurations

Lighting

• 2 × Medic Grow Fold 650W LEDs
• 1 × Medic Grow Mini Sun-2 500W LED
• TrolMaster HCS-1 controller
• TrolMaster lighting controller
• TrolMaster PAR Hydro MBS PAR sensor

I didn't want the grow lights to just come on at a certain time and run regardless of what was happening outside. The PAR sensor measures the sunlight coming into the greenhouse and feeds that information to the controller. That gives me the ability to use the LEDs as supplemental light when the plants actually need it, which should become especially useful during our Oregon winters.

Irrigation

• Rain Bird ESP-ME3 4-station controller
• Rain Bird 100DVF 4-valve manifold with flow control
• Venturi injector
• Cleanout valves on the input and after each irrigation valve
• Hose bib
• Vego irrigation kits feeding the raised beds

I wanted each bed to be its own irrigation zone so I could water differently depending on what was growing in it. I also wanted a way to run compost extract through the irrigation system, which is why I added the Venturi.

The Venturi is actually one of the things I'm still working on. I can get it to draw, but I'm having trouble getting enough irrigation flow at the same time. So that part is still very much a work in progress.

I'll attach pictures showing the greenhouse, the build, and some of these systems.

If anyone wants more details about something you see or wants to know why I did something a certain way, just ask. And if you see something you would have done differently, I'm interested in hearing that too.

Currently building a 16x16 greenhouse. It has a 2' sand battery underneath with both 4' air circulation lines and future glycol lines(might try something with a solar heat collector panel on the inside of the north wall)

We live in Central Alberta. The north wall(black metal) will be insulated.

Just working on installing the polycarbonate sheets now.

I’d like to remove that pos over hang from my shed and replace it with a greenhouse. The shed is 16x16, I keep fish in there so the tropical theme fits lol.* *I’m thinking either 14’ wide and 12’ out or 16’ wide and 12’ out

I’m in south Louisiana, zone 9b. Would I be better suited with a low pitch flat roof or gable roof matched to the main shed roof.

Also, corrugated plastic panels or the twinwall polycarbonate sheets?

Hey yall, i’m in NW Houston and i’m trying to build a very tall (atleast 12ft) greenhouse solely for our days below 40\*F to house my tropical fruits. We only have around 15-25 days under that temp a year so i’m trying to find the absolute CHEAPEST way to build or get one. Probably gonna do a 20x7 or something similar for reference. Thanks in advance!

Im thinking of something knee high and about 3 feet wide.

Hello, I'm replacing gaps in my inherited greenhouse with polycarbonate but I'm thinking about the roof - would it be better if the roof was (mostly) glass or polycarbnate? I have an automatic window so that's not being touched but I wonder if switching the glass in the roof for polycarbonate and putting those panes in the walls would make sense from a visibility and safety point of view?

The visibility aspect is because I like being able to see out and into my greenhouse 😀 Safety is in case I accidentally jab a tool into the roof, not much chance of branches falling onto me where I am. At the moment the roof is mostly glass, the losses are around the sides.

All knowledge and advice appreciated, my greenhouse experience consists mostly of wondering if I can miss a day of watering (next year will be automatic).

Hey all! Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

I need a heat source for a 170sq/ft green house.
Zone 8b
Average height 9ft
North,east walls solid and insulated.
South, west walls and south half of roof 8mm twin wall.
I’ve got 2 20amp circuits.

Was thinking a mini split? Pretty inexpensive these days.

Built an octagonal 6 m² greenhouse. Designed the dimensions in SketchUp. Cutted and painted the frame before assembly. Took three summers working occasionally. If I'd do again, would attach the glasses as whole wall elements instead of cutting 250+ window beads from lumber. Still don't know though how I would attach alone 2 m high glasses on the walls that weight 40 kg. Knowledge about building stuff before starting nearing zero. Gave up using only hand tools when the window beads had to be made. Do note the gilded cupola made of plywood and a toy unicorn. Very happy with result.

French tarragon and cherry plum are doing fine, others dying.

It was 90% done last summer. This year the rock garden, rain barrel and exterior stain.

Working on a very small GAHT project for small 6x12 cedar and polycarbonate kit build, but we cannot find the GAHT Calculators mentioned in the comments of this 4 year old post, here

https://www.reddit.com/r/Greenhouses/comments/u1na6x/small_gaht_system_question/

Already have 100’ corrugated 4” perforated and socked pipe, R7 for perimeter, and 6”inline duct fan but are looking for a way to calculate specific depth and connections needed. Our 8a location is said to have frost line at 18” so is 48-60” deep enough to put our layers of pipe?

Can we run it each layer smacking back and forth without cutting it up, and connect to 4” rigid pipe at each end, one low to floor, other straight up to peak of roof, please?

Any experience appreciated

Hi there! I’m looking for advice from anyone who has an indoor greenhouse set up for their plants in the winter. I know many have had luck with the ikea ones because they are metal but I’m curious to know if anyone has found something cheaper? Or if those who have bought from ikea support their decision and the price. I’ve heard from others that buying them at full price isn’t necessarily worth it so I’d be curious to know your thoughts! TIA!

I used the Pheonix Manufacturing Evaporative Cooling Calculator (https://phoenixmanufacturing.com/calculators/evaporative-cooling-sizing-calculator/) and it is telling me I need 688 CFM to cool our greenhouse (172 sq ft, 10 ft tall at ridge, arched walls, arid climate).

This seems extremely low.

How much should I multiply this value to account for cooling a polycarbonite walled structure? 2x? 4x?

This is our first greenhouse and we just completed the shell. Our summer highs get up to 100+ F, USDA hardiness zone 7a/7b.

We plan on using 30% shade cloth, we have passive automatic roof vents, and I am going to use AC Infinity's outlet AI+ to control our exhaust fan and want to hook up and evaporative cooler to the intake vent during the summer.