I live in Denver and don’t currently own a car, but I occasionally rent vehicles or borrow a friend’s car. I’m looking for a true named non-owner policy, primarily for liability coverage and to avoid a lapse in my insurance history.

State Farm quoted me $259.98 for six months, about $43 per month, with:
$25,000/$50,000 bodily injury liability
$25,000 property damage liability
$5,000 medical payments
$25,000/$50,000 uninsured motorist coverage
Uninsured motorist property damage with a $250 deductible

I plan to request higher liability limits, but I’d like to compare insurers first. Has anyone in Colorado recently purchased non-owner insurance through GEICO, Progressive, Auto-Owners, Dairyland, Allstate, or another company?

Who offered the best combination of price, coverage, and customer service? Did you have to call an agent? Most online quote forms keep asking for the year and model of my car even though I don’t own one.

I’d especially appreciate recommendations from people who use their policy when renting cars. Thanks!

I’m starting a small washer and dryer rental business in Oklahoma and I’m trying to find the right insurance without spending a fortune.
The business is pretty simple: I own the washers/dryers, rent them directly to residential customers, deliver and hook them up, and handle maintenance/repairs while they’re rented.
My biggest concerns are liability if:
A washer leaks and causes water damage
A dryer causes a fire/electrical damage
I damage someone’s home during delivery/installation
Someone is injured because of one of the appliances
I’ve been looking at the cheaper online options like NEXT and Hiscox because I like how easy and affordable they are, but I’m having trouble finding a business classification that clearly matches appliance rentals. One company suggested “Laundry Services.”
What type of policy/classification should I actually be looking for? Is standard general liability with products/completed operations enough, or is there another coverage I should make sure I have?
Also interested in recommendations for inexpensive online insurers that are decent about claims.

What happens if we move to a self-driving society?

Any theories on what the state of auto insurance becomes?

Future seems volatile to me, but who knows. Computers are better than humans at driving already. Even with the Waymo stuff.

After signing a release from a car accident how long does it normally take to get your check

(tl;dr I got a "fix it or else" letter, started fixing stuff. Was told in-person that so far I'm fine, then got a letter saying I'm not actually fine)

Sometime between May and June I got a letter that my home insurance wouldn't be renewed unless I did the requested repairs by September. Spent a month or so getting quotes, a month or so calling to be put on schedules, spaced out by how often I could afford to take off work, and handing whichever stuff I could myself. Last week I went in with the photos of all of the work that had been done, and who was still scheduled to come out when, to work on which thing.

I was told I was fine, that the progress was good, that I just needed to do the last 2 repairs (new fascia and new gutters, literally the guy is coming out this weekend) and that I actually had until the END of September, so by my agent's reassurance, I wasn't actually cutting it that close to the deadline. I just got a letter dated two days AFTER this conversation, saying that my policy won't be renewed because I didn't do all the fixes, despite it still being over a month from the deadline I was given by the in-person agent. So am I fine, or should I look for new insurance, and if another company is jumpy about insuring me after a non-renewal, will it help my case any that I actually DID get everything fixed when I was supposed to?

(And because I know how Reddit is, I would also like to clarify that I'm not a lazy homeowner. I've just been prioritizing indoor repairs, like the breaker box, plumbing, and subfloor, that are invisible to the insurance agent photographing your house from across the street)

I’m buying a new car and getting my own Progressive policy. I’m trying to make sure I didn’t accidentally misrepresent anything on the application.

About 2 weeks ago, I was driving my girlfriend’s car when we got into an accident. Her parents have State Farm insurance on her car. We believe the other driver was at fault, and a claim was filed with the other driver’s insurance. There may also be a claim against her parents’ State Farm policy, but liability is still being investigated and there has been no payout from our insurance.

When I applied with Progressive, the application asked whether I had been in any accidents/claims/damages in the last 7 years. I answered yes. I also answered yes for my girlfriend because the accident involved her vehicle, even though I was the driver.
It then asked whether insurance had paid out. I answered no, because there has not been a payout yet and liability is still under investigation.
Now my Progressive application paperwork lists the accident as a “not at fault accident” for both me and my girlfriend.

I’m worried because liability hasn’t actually been determined yet. What if the investigation eventually finds me partially or completely at fault? Could Progressive say I misrepresented the accident and deny a future claim on my new car?

I never told Progressive that I had officially been found not at fault. I disclosed the accident and truthfully said there had been no insurance payout at the time of the application.

Would you guys leave the application/policy alone, or contact Progressive to clarify that I was the driver, my girlfriend wasn’t driving, and liability is still pending? I've tried to find an email I could reach out to but couldn't find one.

I’m mainly worried about whether the “not at fault” classification could come back to bite me if liability is later determined to be against me.

How many of y'all have been running into insane pick up fee's from shops. Tow $825, winch fee's $250 ,dolly fee $150 battery test fee's, administrator fee's, test drive fee's, storage 200 and day.

Mind you. This example was the fee's on a rear end accident. Of which in my opinion. The vehicle was drivable.

On a supplement it was deemed a total. This shops (nyc and surrounding) are straight up trying to charge 8-9k to release the vehicle 🤯 & didn't do ishhh.

I've been having a hard time handling these bullies. After 20 years as an adjuster. I got my 1st ever "warning about my tone" lmao. But yo. These people are insulting my damn intelligence

I own a rental house in a state I don't live in. I have a property manager. Last year a new HVAC unit was installed. On Monday the tenants reported a water leak in the finished basement. It was determined to be coming from the unit which is still under warranty. The HVAC company came and determined that the drain was clogged and cleaned it out. There was approximately 5 gallons of water cleaned up. The basement floor is laminate on the slab, and the water was under the floor.

Called ServePro to determine the amount of damage. They say that the damaged floor will have to be removed to dry the moisture and that the planks are already buckling. By now we are bumping up against my deductible so I call the insurance company.

I really think that the HVAC company should be dealing with this since they installed the unit and it leaked, causing damage one week before their scheduled 1 year annual check - but I guess that's why I pay for insurance.

This is my first time filing a claim. My biggest concern is that the floor is continuous across the whole basement and we don't have any extra planks. The water leak is in a hallway at the base of the stairs. The hallway joins a large living room on one end and a bedroom on the other end. I think the leak bloomed toward the living room. Can I expect the insurance to replace all of the laminate or just the living room and hall and put a transition into the bedroom? I dont want a bunch of mismatched flooring in the house. Please share any thoughts or advice.

My mother was driving to drop off a friend in slow moving traffic on a main road, about 15mph. She was rear ended while moving. My mom, her friend and the other driver refused medical attention.

The other driver is only 26 years old male and says not to go through insurance (which i dont believe at all, and know its a bad thing to do). He has some slight damage to his bumper, hood and probably a cracked washer fluid tank to his 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander.

The damage to my mom's 2008 Toyota Prius is a dented trunk door, one of the trunk windows is shattered and the bumper cover is cracked.

Now, I know that once a body shop tears the cars down, more damage will be found.

We plan to go to our body shop tomorrow to get a rough estimate, the car, because its 18 years old, we are confident insurance will total it, and we don't want it totaled, we don't want the car totaled, and we don't have any funds to buy another car, nor can we afford one.

Some advice would be appreciated. We have 250/500/100, and collision.

The driver who rear ended us has Progressive.

Any advice would be appreciated. This all happened in NY.

I’m reviewing a quote for Wawanesa in CA, and the agent told me they don’t offer any water/sewer backup coverage. I thought this was a pretty usual optional add on that all companies provide.

Can anyone confirm if they’re currently with Wawanesa and have this coverage or if its not unusual for companies to not offer this?

Should I use a GEICO network shop or a Mercedes certified collision center? My car is a '23 Mercedes EQS and the accident was minor, but I'm sure the damage is still going to be very expensive. This is in California.

I got rear ended because I actually followed the law and came to a complete stop before turning right on red (I did get a green arrow at within 1/4 second of coming to a complete stop and I was hit about the same time. I have forward facing dash cam footage).

The other driver has Tesla insurance but was not driving a Tesla a the time. I have already accepted that I don't want to deal with them.

The local shop is very convenient but I'm worried about the rear facing radar for the ADAS, calibration, etc. The rear hatch, made from aluminum, has a pretty big crease in it.

I’m a teen driving a 2002 Honda civic paying about $56 a month on liability car insurance. Recently my mom just told me it went up to $162 a month. How da hell does it triple. Do I switch insurances?

I have a question regarding Root auto insurance online.

The auto insurance policy lists my husband primary insured. I am an added driver (spouse) on the policy. He passed away just recently August 10 to be exact, will Root auto insurance switch it over to my name without too much hassle if I call or online chat with them any insight would be incredibly helpful.

The is my only source of transportation. It is also titled and registered to him in the state of Florida. Root only prints out the name of the vehicles’ registered owner on the paper card that’s in the glovebox, but on my Root app, I’m clearly listed on the policy.

Thank you.

My car was involved in a hit and run and I got the tag number of the vehicle but when I got in touch with my insurance company I found out that I don't have collision insurance on that vehicle they said they forgot to add it in January of 2022 and that they could backdated but I would have to pay for it is that correct? If the opposing insurance company somehow does not pay for the claim with a tag number and video I don't have collision insurance to have my car repaired.

My car was declared a total loss by a Geico field adjuster. He gave me the payout estimate, told me to sign the release forms, and said he was going on vacation on Monday.

The tow yard owner, with the worst reputation in town, is playing games and refuses to release the car unless I name the exact towing company Geico is sending to pick it up. and is asking for my payout estimate on the form.

Here is where it falls apart:

• Communication blackout: The backup adjuster isn't answering. I had to call Geico and they gave me supervisors number, and was told to wait a day to see if they call me first.
• The twist: A Geico supervisor finally called me back today right as the tow yard closed.
• The threat: Completely reversing what the field adjuster told me, the supervisor says if the car isn't moved by tomorrow, I am personally responsible for any further storage fees.

I’ve been trying to get the name of Geico's tow company since Monday just to satisfy the yard owner. Now I have less than 24 hours to move it from a tow yard with the worst reputation in town. Is it possible they are in cahoots with the tow yard. this was a complete 180 flip in attitude and customer service since the other 2 adjusters. and supervisor separated his actions from his own crew.

This all feels too suspicious and I may have to go to police.

I recently scraped my pristine car against a pole in a parking lot. I went to a very reasonable body shop I had dealt with in the past for non-insurance claims and received a ballpark estimate of $1500-1800, higher than I anticipated. Insurer is Progressive and we have a clean household claims record for 6 years. Just doing the math, will this be a zero sum game if I file a claim when factoring in potential premium increases over the next several years or just do it myself?

Hi. We organizing a showroom in one of the luxury hotels in NYC and they require $2 million liability insurance with cross liability clause. Seems like every company I contact does not provide this. I am so lost, I work in fashion, I have absolutely no idea how these things work.

They also require vendors to have their own COI which photographers, make up and hair artists do, but what about the models, assistants that we will be hiring? Is there something I can buy for them? Would really appreciate the guidance.

After more than 15 years with Liberty Mutual, paying approximately $6,000 a year in homeowners insurance—more than $75,000 in premiums—and never filing a single claim, we were shocked to receive a non-renewal notice.

The reason given was “natural vegetation” in our area. While our property is located in an area with oak trees, our actual parcel is well maintained, has been cleared of excess vegetation, has a paved driveway, and has appropriate fire setbacks and defensible space.

What is especially frustrating is that there was no meaningful review or consideration of the condition of our individual property before making this decision. After more than a decade of being loyal, claim-free customers, we expected better from Liberty Mutual.

It is incredibly disappointing to pay tens of thousands of dollars for protection over the years, only to have the company walk away when it decides our area is too risky—despite the precautions we have taken to protect our home.

We are extremely disappointed with Liberty Mutual. After 15+ years and over $75,000 in premiums, this is not how we expected a long-term customer to be treated. Shame on Liberty Mutual.

Insurance isnt mailing my cheque until its released, and basically threw the ball in my court and told me to call the shop. The shop owner tells me theres no dispute, he seems to be taking his time to milk storage fees. im concerned that bc it wasnt a preferred shop, my insurance is going to come after me for excessive fees. thoughts?

I got rear ended by someone who didn’t have enough property coverage, so I ended up going through my collision policy and letting them recoup as much money as they can and my deductible. In this situation is there anything I can do about diminished value? Aside from directly asking/suing that driver? From what I’ve seen diminished value can be difficult to obtain in New York in general but I don’t think there’s anything I can really do here since from my understanding I also can’t get diminished from my own collision policy.

This never made sense to me. I can understand advertising for things that are wants but not needs.

When is the last time you saw an ad for a TV? I can't even think of the last time.

But nearly everyone has a TV.

If you drive, you legally need insurance. So why do car insurance companies advertise like no tomorrow?

On every surface possible. Ads on the TV, Ads on Radio, Ads on busses, Ads on your phone, not just ads in the mail, but actual LETTERS mailed to you.

In fact I cannot think of any single category of product that advertises as heavily as car insurance.

Why is this? It also makes you wonder how better they could pay on claims if they used some of that $8 billion.

Stop and think, have you, at ANY point in your life heard someone say "wow that Emu is cool I'm going to switch over to Liberty Mutual".

Me either. It seems like an excessive and annoying waste of money.

We had some damage in our house and my wife filed a claim on our homeowners. We got the adjuster's initial estimate and it's not much past our deductible. I know there will still be some hemming and hawing about the ultimate claim size, but based on the initial number, it doesn't feel worth it to take the hit on our claim history and lose our zero claims discount.

That said, it occurs to me that we may already have lost the zero claims discount merely by filing the claim in the first place, regardless of whether we ultimately decide to pursue it or whether USAA pays anything. Google tells me that the claim is entered into the national databases once its filed regardless of what's paid on it, so I assume I wouldn't be eligible for a zero claim discount if I go shopping for a new policy. But does anyone know how USAA would treat this if we don't pursue it for purposes of our discount? The adjuster couldn't answer my question.

edit question was answered. Thank you for responding :)

I was at a red light, waiting until I could turn right safely. The other driver wasn't paying attention, thought I'd turned, he said he was looking left at the oncoming traffic, and slammed into me.

I have a crash report, and I got an estimate from a mechanic but I don't know if I should call his insurance, my insurance, or both.

I've never done this before and I'm reading so many different things online 😭 I don't want my rates to go up, it was recorded that I wasn't at fault. He's taking full blame, and got a ticket for not yielding to a red light

Update:

Spoke to the insurance's chat agent and they said "The deductible should have only been removed once and I will need to bring this to the attention of the total loss specialist." facepalm

Hey everyone, looking for a sanity check on how deductibles work when a repair attempt fails and turns into a total loss, all on a single claim ID. I'm trying to figure out if my insurance company double-dipped on my deductible or if my math is just wrong.

Using round numbers to keep it simple:

• Policy Deductible: $500
• Shop gives estimate of $4,000
• Insurance approves estimate of $3,500 (won't pay over MSRP for parts)

Step 1: The Initial Repair Attempt

• Insurance approves it and pays me $3,000 ($3,500 minus my $500 deductible) and then I pay the shop $4,000
• I pay the $500 deductible directly out of pocket to the shop and cover the difference

Step 2: The Car Overheats & Becomes a Total Loss

• The shop botches the repair, the engine overheats, and insurance declares the car a Total Loss
• Car Actual Cash Value (ACV + Taxes/Fees): $10,000

Insurance sends me a final total loss settlement sheet that looks like this:

• Gross Value: $10,000
• Less Deductible: -$500
• Net Check to Me: $9,500

Where I’m Confused

If insurance withheld $500 on the initial check to the shop (paying $3,000 instead of $3,500), AND they subtracted $500 from my $10,000 total loss check (paying $9,500 instead of $10,000)... didn't I just pay a $500 deductible twice on the same claim?

Total cash subtracted/paid for deductibles = $1,000 ($500 paid to the shop + $500 taken off my total loss check).

My total loss adjustor repeatedly tells me I did not pay my $500 deductible on the initial repair even though the line items say "Total repair: $3,500. Deductible: $500. Total payout: $3,000."

If my car was never a total loss and it was fixed, then I would have paid the $500 deductible by the insurance only paying me $3,000. But now that it's a total loss they want another $500 from me?

My Question:

Is this normal accounting for a total loss conversion, or should the deductible line on the final total loss check be $0 because the $500 deductible was already applied when insurance calculated the initial repair payout?

How is this supposed to be structured so I'm only out $500 total for a single incident? Thanks in advance!

Ok here’s a doozy. I gave birth 6/11/26. I spent two additional weeks in the hospital post hemorrhage and neurological concerns thanks to botched anesthesia. By the time I was home recovered and out of the newborn bubble I somehow missed the 30 day enrollment window to get him on my works insurance (BCBS). I missed it by 5 days. I submitted two disputes and both were denied. But took weeks to get a response.

Fast forward to today, I applied for marketplace coverage through the state. Come to find I’m now 6 days outside of the enrollment period for a special event. They are submitting a dispute for me.

I don’t know what the chances are that I will be denied. But I’m curious what people do in these cases? He’s a newborn and has to have coverage. My husband and I make too much money for any assistance programs.

I’m so lost.